Phoenix Atomizer Questions!
- Thread starter SilentEcho13
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Hydrophoid, that's the smok Vivi rebuildable. I have one also, well, did have.
If you move that spacer over to the other post it will prevent having that one hot leg going back down.
I'm still using the hybrid SS mesh/cotton core wick. I pulled one leg of the cotton out and trimmed it slightly. I left it sticking straight up and now this coil went from really good to awesome.
The juice flows up & back down to the coil. Now I need a device that has more than a 2amp limit because this coil is laughing at my batt.
I'll definitely pick up the larger phoenix when they drop.
If you move that spacer over to the other post it will prevent having that one hot leg going back down.
I'm still using the hybrid SS mesh/cotton core wick. I pulled one leg of the cotton out and trimmed it slightly. I left it sticking straight up and now this coil went from really good to awesome.
The juice flows up & back down to the coil. Now I need a device that has more than a 2amp limit because this coil is laughing at my batt.
I'll definitely pick up the larger phoenix when they drop.
Ya, I know, I loved my stock coil wrap on the Phoenix, I decided to play with the other system I ordered at the same time. I Just wanted to show off my coil warping skills since I have been getting suggestions from this thread. I did post the pics in the proper thread also, and they suggested the same thing about moving the extender post to center. Apparently hot legs are a bad thing in the world of vaping, and cause a metal taste. I though the taste was from using brand new coil. I remember reading on one of the threads that said kanthal has a metal taste for the first few vapes.
Ah, gotcha Hydro. It's all good
If a leg gets hot, it gives me the 'sensation' of a nasty dry hit, even if it's not.
I have come to the conclusion that it's the extra heat from those legs that make it feel like a dry hit, if that makes sense.
If I eliminate the hot legs, I don't get the dry hit sensation and the flavor is a lot better also.
That's just me though.
If a leg gets hot, it gives me the 'sensation' of a nasty dry hit, even if it's not.
I have come to the conclusion that it's the extra heat from those legs that make it feel like a dry hit, if that makes sense.
If I eliminate the hot legs, I don't get the dry hit sensation and the flavor is a lot better also.
That's just me though.
My Phoenix from Gotvapes has a really really harsh throat hit and not as much flavour or vapor as I expected.
Any ideas on how to lessen the harsh hits?
Wrapping 2.6 ohm coils with 34awg kanthal on silica wick.
Lining the air hole up between the two posts.
Will enlarging the air hole help?
Any ideas on how to lessen the harsh hits?
Wrapping 2.6 ohm coils with 34awg kanthal on silica wick.
Lining the air hole up between the two posts.
Will enlarging the air hole help?
Turn off the lights and look for a hot spot. If I even have a hot leg going to the post, it will give the impression of a dry hit.
I added the 0-ring from a drip tip and this allowed me to position the hole close to the coil.
It's like a adjustable TH dial. I added the o-ring as it was sucking air around the threads and didn't improve until I added it.
I added the 0-ring from a drip tip and this allowed me to position the hole close to the coil.
It's like a adjustable TH dial. I added the o-ring as it was sucking air around the threads and didn't improve until I added it.
I assume you mean adding the oring around the base above the threads? Or replacing the stock o-ring?
I added it to the base with the original o-ring. It lets met tweak the placement of the hole as the o-ring will flatten out and also seal which forces air to go through the hole rather than leak up the threads.
If that makes sense.
If that makes sense.
Built a new coil last night with 33 AWG Kanthal wrapped over SS400 mesh, with a cotton loop-wick in the middle.
Twisted the posts so they face inside, and made a horizontal coil inbetween them.
It's perfect, all I can say. 2.8ohms at 5.2v, never a dry hit, flavor, TH, everything is there.
My point?
USE SS MESH. Run a wick through the mesh.
Twisted the posts so they face inside, and made a horizontal coil inbetween them.
It's perfect, all I can say. 2.8ohms at 5.2v, never a dry hit, flavor, TH, everything is there.
My point?
USE SS MESH. Run a wick through the mesh.
I have not tried enlarging the hole, though I've heard that enlarging it is best done in very small increments. Some reported a smoother vape, and some a harsher one...
As long as you're making sure that the coil is in line with the air hole (the first problem I had with these,) other things that I noticed:
- my first attempt, the coil proved to be lower than is ideal when using the provided holes for the terminals, and the coil was burning the insulation around the posts. Harsh hits, and sore throat for two days.... On second attempt, I left the legs a bit longer, and pushed/bent the whole coil upward, higher on the posts.
- with the coil higher on the posts, the airflow seemed to be better around the coil, so on my third build, I connected it to the top of the posts. This was not as easy, as I didn't leave the legs long enough to easily wind around the screw, but it worked.
Now, it's still a bit harsher than my other stuff, but I attribute that to the side air hole design, which I think is inferior to the bottom hole design when it comes to airflow.
You don't need to wrap it around the screw...as long as it is firmly under that screw, you have connectivity.
Both my original wick and coil, and the one I built give me ultra smooth hits... I want it to be stronger on the inhale but it is not, even with the 1.9 ohm that I have on it now... but I do not want to expose the copper that is under the chrome finish, so I am not going to drill mine unless I replace it with a perfect-fitting tiny tube.
Both my original wick and coil, and the one I built give me ultra smooth hits... I want it to be stronger on the inhale but it is not, even with the 1.9 ohm that I have on it now... but I do not want to expose the copper that is under the chrome finish, so I am not going to drill mine unless I replace it with a perfect-fitting tiny tube.
Will enlarging the air hole help?
Yes it helps a great deal. You can use a small round file to open it ever so slightly, or do what I did which is found a drill bit, sorry don't know the size off hand, but it was small enough to insert in the hole. Hit the power rotated around inside a couple of times, and you are done. It made it airy, with tons of vapor, and tolerable throat hit. Definately the closest thing to an analog draw that I have seen in 1 1/2yrs vaping and modding. Checkout Hildicats Vertical coil build with cotton too, the two together are the shiznit, no joke.
Yes it helps a great deal. You can use a small round file to open it ever so slightly, or do what I did which is found a drill bit, sorry don't know the size off hand, but it was small enough to insert in the hole. Hit the power rotated around inside a couple of times, and you are done. It made it airy, with tons of vapor, and tolerable throat hit. Definately the closest thing to an analog draw that I have seen in 1 1/2yrs vaping and modding. Checkout Hildicats Vertical coil build with cotton too, the two together are the shiznit, no joke.
Hey guys! I just wanna ask... if lets say I want to check the Resistant of the rebuildable, should I use a multi meter to check the resistance?...cause I dont know much how to set up a multi meter... if for short circuits or hard short circuits, how are they avoidable? are there any tips to prevent this sitation from happening?...
Cause I am quite scared if I were to get a short circuit and my PV can get spoilt
Cause I am quite scared if I were to get a short circuit and my PV can get spoilt
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What PV do you use? I check my resistance on my Provari, which is pretty accurate. Othewise, a multimeter always works. You can also buy an in-line resistance meter for 510 threads too.
You can pretty much avoid all shorts by making sure that no two wraps on a coil are touching each other, if there is no contact between the two posts directly, and to make sure a coil wrap is not touching any of the posts. Usually after you build, you can go in with a toothpick and even things out. I suggest testing your build with a few drops of liquid on a low-voltage pv like an ego to check for "hot spots" or bright orange glowing in areas where it shouldn't be (the legs of the coil, a single wrap, etc).
The legs of your coil should glow AFTER the wraps, and the wraps should all be glowing evenly.
You can pretty much avoid all shorts by making sure that no two wraps on a coil are touching each other, if there is no contact between the two posts directly, and to make sure a coil wrap is not touching any of the posts. Usually after you build, you can go in with a toothpick and even things out. I suggest testing your build with a few drops of liquid on a low-voltage pv like an ego to check for "hot spots" or bright orange glowing in areas where it shouldn't be (the legs of the coil, a single wrap, etc).
The legs of your coil should glow AFTER the wraps, and the wraps should all be glowing evenly.
For me I use a ProVari but the thing is a frens fren of mine got the Provari converter spoilt due to short circuit and there goes the problem :/...not that worth to sent it back to repairs since it cost nearly $100-$200.
What do you mean by the two post?...Is it the negative and the positive end of the wire?(sorry for being a huge noob here)..Really new to the rebuildable world since I wanna try something new rather than being stuck on a vivi nova when everyone else around me has the pheoniz rebuildable/genesis maxi/DID
...I think I would try out on my Ego batts for the moment as it is a much safer way than using the Provari straight. And thanks for helping me out mate!
What do you mean by the two post?...Is it the negative and the positive end of the wire?(sorry for being a huge noob here)..Really new to the rebuildable world since I wanna try something new rather than being stuck on a vivi nova when everyone else around me has the pheoniz rebuildable/genesis maxi/DID
...I think I would try out on my Ego batts for the moment as it is a much safer way than using the Provari straight. And thanks for helping me out mate!
I've never had any converter issues. You'll probably need a pretty bad short to fry the board. That's the "E8" error. You'll get it occasionally, but it's nothing to worry about if everything continues to work. Send it back if it's a repeating issue.
The posts are the two pins that stick out. You basically can't have them touch each other (nor is it possible). Just try and have the coil looking as clean as possible: no touching wraps, no contact between the posts and the coil, etc. It should be "floating" between the posts if anything at all.
The Provari can take a good bit of abuse, so don't be afraid to use it for testing and all. If anything, I'm sure you still have an active warranty.
The posts are the two pins that stick out. You basically can't have them touch each other (nor is it possible). Just try and have the coil looking as clean as possible: no touching wraps, no contact between the posts and the coil, etc. It should be "floating" between the posts if anything at all.
The Provari can take a good bit of abuse, so don't be afraid to use it for testing and all. If anything, I'm sure you still have an active warranty.
hmm yeah He might had gotten a really bad short until his board was fried up :/..damnn that is really scary since I am hard on cash and might not be able to have extra cash to repair it..
Ok now I know what is a post already! haha! thanks alot mate for helping me out! Really Appreciate it! Cant wait to get my hands on one!
Ok now I know what is a post already! haha! thanks alot mate for helping me out! Really Appreciate it! Cant wait to get my hands on one!
It happens sometimes, its rare though. If you tried to pump out 5v into an atomizer that ends up being .5ohms, you might have an issue lol. As long as you stay within (and close to) the Provari's limits, I doubt you'd have an issue. There's always the chance that he had a faulty converter to begin with though.
Just get in the habit to dial the voltage of the Provari down into the 3's before putting the atty on it to check the ohms. With an unknown atty, lower voltage for the ohm check is safer for the device. (or so I've been told, it makes sense to me).
I used a multimeeter to check, but that is cause it was the only option for me. and I check it the same way an inline 519 would be used, by hitting the side of the screw post and the inside middle part. The resistence of the coil will be a bit lower than the total resistence, but not my much.
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