Poldiac Clone

[NickSteel]

My only problem with the o-ring is that it is little thick for my atomizer (Protank 2) and I have to really tighten the screw. I plan to sand the o-ring down a small amount to adjust this.

I get very good contact. Although I haven't measured anything, it hits about the same as my Nemesis clone.

A friend of mine replaced his switch connector pin with a piece of 110v copper house wire.

"what i did though is i cut the wire about an inch long and chucked it up in a dremel and polished it with mothers mag polish, then measured and cut it and smoothed the edges...looks like a factory pin..LOL...hits much better also."

 

[dwcraig1]

The switch assembly requires period cleaning, it is made to be user serviced. It is very simple to disassemble and reassemble, here's how I do it.
Start with having a few things on hand, a small paper clip, super glue gel (1 tiny drop), a non-magnetic stick (plastic ink pen refill), a Sharpie (to mark the opposing sides of the magnets).
I'll skip right to assembly.
Glue magnet to end of button if it has come off. Mark the other magnet on what ever side pushes away from the one on the button.
Put the plastic switch body into the metal switch housing, position the hole for the button and install locking ring and tighten it.
Drop in the magnet with marked side up and hold it down with plastic rod while inserting straightened paper clip through the slot in the plastic housing to get it on top of the magnet. (curving the end of the paper clip will help get it in place)
Pull out plastic rod while holding magnet in place with paper clip and insert button into switch housing with the signature in the correct direction and pull out the paper clip.
You may need to rotate the button slightly to line up the slot for the contact screw but do so without releasing the button other wise the loose magnet will flip over.
Insert one of the contact screws, now you can release the button.
Finish assembly.

I hope I didn't make this seem difficult because it's a piece of cake if approached correctly. IMO

 

[dwcraig1]

The 12 gauge copper wire pin is slightly smaller OD than the existing pin which is a good thing because it lets the pin tilt if it makes with one contact before the other but also make it a PITA 'cause it wants to fall out during assembly, once assembled it can't fall out though.

But here's what I don't know, I sanded off one or two thousands off the end of my button and since the copper pin is slightly smaller OD, will the travel on the button (stock) be enough with out reducing as I did?

If you are going to make the copper pin cut it slightly longer and file/sand to correct length, compare to original pin, it can not stick out from button even a little.

 

[NickSteel]

The switch assembly requires period cleaning, it is made to be user serviced. It is very simple to disassemble and reassemble, here's how I do it.
Start with having a few things on hand, a small paper clip, super glue gel (1 tiny drop), a non-magnetic stick (plastic ink pen refill), a Sharpie (to mark the opposing sides of the magnets).
I'll skip right to assembly.
Glue magnet to end of button if it has come off. Mark the other magnet on what ever side pushes away from the one on the button.
Put the plastic switch body into the metal switch housing, position the hole for the button and install locking ring and tighten it.
Drop in the magnet with marked side up and hold it down with plastic rod while inserting straightened paper clip through the slot in the plastic housing to get it on top of the magnet. (curving the end of the paper clip will help get it in place)
Pull out plastic rod while holding magnet in place with paper clip and insert button into switch housing with the signature in the correct direction and pull out the paper clip.
You may need to rotate the button slightly to line up the slot for the contact screw but do so without releasing the button other wise the loose magnet will flip over.
Insert one of the contact screws, now you can release the button.
Finish assembly.

I've noticed from original Poldiac disassembly videos that the DaVapes switch is a little different in that it doesn't seem to have an upper o-ring. Are the switch internals the same? Can you use the original's switch disassembly/assembly video as instructions when doing the DaVapes?

I'm hoping for DaVapes switch tear down video, as I could probably understand it better.

 

[Tbev]

Once you take apart the devapes switch you will understand how it works. I'm not trying to be a dik, but it's really easy.


Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

 

[Portertown]

I've noticed from original Poldiac disassembly videos that the DaVapes switch is a little different in that it doesn't seem to have an upper o-ring. Are the switch internals the same? Can you use the original's switch disassembly/assembly video as instructions when doing the DaVapes?

I'm hoping for DaVapes switch tear down video, as I could probably understand it better.

The switches are the same. The oring is just in the original to stop any leaking juice from getting into the switch assy and to keep the switch clean. You can add a oring as it just lays in the grove, but I am not sure of the size.

 

[NickSteel]

Sorry, I used the wrong term. Was referring to the large brass ring that unscrews from the top inside threads like the one that is on the bottom. My clone has the bottom ring, but not the top one as in the videos.

Maybe I'm not seeing it?

 

[dwcraig1]

On the top cap for the 510 the original the ring on the underside is plastic and on the DaVapes model it is brass. This brass piece serves no function for us as it is used for making the Poldiac a bottom button mod with the addition of a special contact and spring.
Being brass though it would create a short so I have no idea why they made it brass.
The original switch body and the DaVapes switch body are the same with only one ring on the battery side.
BTW the extra notch in the plastic switch body goes toward the atomizer end although I don't see that it would make any difference.
The 10 mm o-rings on my DaVape are two different sizes , also I see no reason for it either (the size difference)

The switch videos apply to both original and clone with the exception of the reverse threaded contacts.

 

[Melvins]

Used the O-rings from Lowes in the plumbing department. They are size #60 made by Danco. The size is 1/4 OD x 1/8 ID x 1/16 thickness.

You can also cut a post insulator from a Protank in half and use that as a washer for the top post pin, if you have an old insulator. I used a new one as I have bags of them for rebuilding my Protank coils. They fit perfectly and will stay with the pin when removed.

 

[Tbev]

Can I buy one from you, I'm so ...... off with this mod im gonna cry... I've used an Oring and it's half assed at best still gives me a horrible connection.

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[Melvins]

Can I buy one from you, I'm so ...... off with this mod im gonna cry... I've used an Oring and it's half assed at best still gives me a horrible connection.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

Go to: Resistance Coil Insulator 10 Pack (CE Type Atty's, eg. Protank, Evod,T - Lightning Vapes

For 6 bucks you get 10 of them.

Just remember to cut it in half or it'll be too large.

 

[Tbev]

Cool thanks

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[dwcraig1]

I think it's a good idea to use Noalox or similiar on the threads of the brass battery cap........ while there are still some threads to apply it to.

 

[Portertown]

I think it's a good idea to use Noalox or similiar on the threads of the brass battery cap........ while there are still some threads to apply it to.

I think the 510 connector female threads are going to be a problem on these clones. The threads on the I have, which came from VR before they pulled them from their site, are starting to get somewhat loose. Either they ran the tap too deep when making these clones or the brass is very soft. I think it is just soft brass. I am going to order a piece of round 1/2 inch brass and make an insert that I can press into the top cap after I drill the female threads out. I will then tap it for the 510 female threads.
These clones have some weaknesses and are going to require some modding to get them in a useable condition. I received a new original Plodiac Aname V2 this week and these clones will never match it.

 

[NickSteel]

You can also cut a post insulator from a Protank in half and use that as a washer for the top post pin, if you have an old insulator. I used a new one as I have bags of them for rebuilding my Protank coils. They fit perfectly and will stay with the pin when removed.

Thanks! The #60 o-ring was a little too thick for my protank 2 and this should work for me.

 

[NickSteel]

I think it's a good idea to use Noalox or similiar on the threads of the brass battery cap........ while there are still some threads to apply it to.

Thanks! And, since I use Protanks, I've always left the base attached to my mods when refilling and changing coils to avoid wear to the 510 threads. (Less messy and easier to just hold the mod upside down and do like this anyway)

This has been an excellent thread, especially given the newness of the Poldiac clone.

 

[dwcraig1]

I think the 510 connector female threads are going to be a problem on these clones. The threads on the I have, which came from VR before they pulled them from their site, are starting to get somewhat loose. Either they ran the tap too deep when making these clones or the brass is very soft. I think it is just soft brass. I am going to order a piece of round 1/2 inch brass and make an insert that I can press into the top cap after I drill the female threads out. I will then tap it for the 510 female threads.
These clones have some weaknesses and are going to require some modding to get them in a useable condition. I received a new original Plodiac Aname V2 this week and these clones will never match it.

I have a 7mm x .5 tap on the way (china), plan on pressing modded part of a 510 adapter into the existing drilled out 510.
I have not come up with any idea for fixing the battery cap other than a new one from MM, and I would get a ss one. The cap from MM is more $ than the clone from FT

Maybe if FT sells enough of them they will start selling parts for them.

 

[dwcraig1]

Kanavos clothes set
pretty expensive clothes

about $150

 

[NickSteel]

Kanavos clothes set
pretty expensive clothes

about $150

With FT flooding the market with DaVapes clones, I expect a lot of inexpensive sleeves.

 

[dwcraig1]

With FT flooding the market with DaVapes clones, I expect a lot of inexpensive sleeves.

You're probably right