Poldiac Clone

[dwcraig1]

Dwcraig -by shortening the plastic that has a magnet glued on the inside end and the button with the signature on the outside end, with the hole for the contact pin in it, that we are replacing with copper, you know the piece I'm talking about: well if you make that too sort, cut it or grind it down to the point of grinding off that end to the grooves that the threaded pins coming from top and bottom ride in, than when Re assembled, with those grooves open on the end you grind /sand too far down the magnet will make contact with the pos pins in the same fashion as they do with the stock pin resulting in firing while in off position.

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When you posted that you took off a few hundreds off I was hoping that you meant "thousands", I guess you said it right.

 

[cecsystems]

Here's my ss one, yes hcigar (probably)

Near $400 vs $54(clones)
And just to come back to topic
The DaVape twins

Nice... can't wait

 

[NickSteel]

If anyone is interested in a fasttech SS DaVapes Poldiac clone, their site is no longer showing out of stock. They do say ETA 02/15.

$33.76 Poldiac Style Mechanical Mod Kit - stainless steel version at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[Tbev]

Yeah it was really pissing me off and shortening the button shaft was my first thought BC it was only really firing when I applied like 30lbs of pressure, plus I added bigger, thicker /stronger, magnets so I needed the clearance.
I got the copper pin n O-Ring in and it is a world of a difference. I can use the mod now. Your the man, much appreciated! I still get a noticeable v drop b but at least it's working. The drop is varying dramatically from negligible 0.05 - 2.2v still, I'm thinking about ordering harder O-Rings in the same size,, what do you think? These ones are 1/4 od 1/8id 1/16th thick correct?
I think a lot of the loss n variance now is the lose threads in the top of the mod it's self, I noticed that all of my attys have quite a bit of slop at that point and if you look closely at the spacing between the atty and the top of mod, it's not as flat as I'd like. I think that is possibly, besides bad threads, the O-Ring ring getting pinched a tad bit. I was using a larger Oring first and I know that was happening then.

 

[dwcraig1]

Yeah it was really pissing me off and shortening the button shaft was my first thought BC it was only really firing when I applied like 30lbs of pressure, plus I added bigger, thicker /stronger, magnets so I needed the clearance.
I got the copper pin n O-Ring in and it is a world of a difference. I can use the mod now. Your the man, much appreciated! I still get a noticeable v drop b but at least it's working. The drop is varying dramatically from negligible 0.05 - 2.2v still, I'm thinking about ordering harder O-Rings in the same size,, what do you think? These ones are 1/4 od 1/8id 1/16th thick correct?
I think a lot of the loss n variance now is the lose threads in the top of the mod it's self, I noticed that all of my attys have quite a bit of slop at that point and if you look closely at the spacing between the atty and the top of mod, it's not as flat as I'd like. I think that is possibly, besides bad threads, the O-Ring ring getting pinched a tad bit. I was using a larger Oring first and I know that was happening then.

Clean the pins that contact the pin of the button. remove, clean, re-install one at a time so you don't have to take the whole switch apart. Look at them with a magnifying glass, clean/polish with dry paper towel(the part that goes into the groove)

 

[NickSteel]

Does anyone have a diagram of the switch?

 

[Tbev]

Here's no diagram bro there are pos screws touching the battery and the atty in line, not touching in off position, when pushed the button, on the end of a shaft, that has a ....crappy, half ... conductive metal pin, the one we replaced with 12 awg solid copper, going thru it, perpendicular to it, vertical, that contacts the two previously mentioned screws, also vertical, completing the circuit to fire. No wires, no schematic... Look on YouTube poldiac button or switch assembly.

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[dwcraig1]

@ Tbev, so did you make some type of repair to the bottom of the button, I was thinking of what to use and a slice of drip tip came to mind , not sure if it was the right diameter as I never got around to checking it.

 

[nelsonm64]

10char

 

[dwcraig1]

10char

"dog gone" it, you know Denver's gonna win

 

[nelsonm64]

"dog gone" it, you know Denver's gonna win

ha ha ha, we shall see like what you did there with the "dog gone" it

 

[Tbev]

@dwcraig1 - well I shaved the end down, of the shaft that has the magnet glued to it, but it didn't make any difference until I got down to the grooves that run length wise, kept going and ended up having to cut a piece of plastic, the same size as the magnet, glued that in between the shaft and the magnet to insulate the magnet from causing the mod to fire if off position. This happens BC I cut past the end of the groove, the pins that ride in the groove of the shaft, are kept from making contact with the magnet by the end of the shaft that I cut off in an effort to allow the pin to travel further inward to make a better connection between the pin in the shaft, and the pos. Pins from battery and atty.
I don't know if that made any sense..
Basically I cut a piece of plastic, from a coke bottle, the same size as the magnet, glued it to the magnet, then glues the magnet with the plastic glued to it to the end of the shortened shaft, with the plastic being between the magnet and the shaft. The plastic from the coke bottle, stops the magnet from making contact with the pos pins causing the mod to fire in off position, because the grooves are milled down so far they are open ended on that end, magnet end, now.

Ok so between both of those descriptions did it make sense?

Either way I don't think it's necessary for you BC I put a bigger magnet inside and needed the clearance anyways, I don't know what size magnet I just happened to have it laying around. But its the exact diameter of the hole so it fits in and is probably 10x stronger so I life the feel of the button better. It did not however aid in performance, the copper pin and the correct size Oring on top have.

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[dwcraig1]

On my 2nd one I did nothing with the button other than replace the pin with a copper one.

 

[dwcraig1]

I came to the conclusion that the button was bottoming out before the contact was made well on the pins so I very carefully sanded down the end of the button where the one magnet is glued, I took off very little 'cause I can always take more off later, care must be taken to keep it square and flat. I believe I have it licked this time around though.
I figure they copied the plastic switch housing correctly but I'm thinking perhaps the magnets might be a little thicker, just thinking out load.

So far I'm very satisfied with my results on the switch. (that changed)

I am unable to edit this post as it's too old now but I want to say that this procedure, shortening the button is not necessary.

 

[Heavyrocker]

The FT Poldiac is total garbage,dont waste your cash,my ego hits better.

Cons:
1.Loose and sticky firing button.
2.510 pin too short and wobbly.
3.Very sharp edge on brass bottom cap.
4.Too heavy to use comfortably with the side button for me anyway.
5.Very tight when screwing in 18650 flat top batt,a nipple batt wont fit.
6 Too tall and heavy.
7.Button switch is hard too press,hurts my finger.


Pros:
1.Beauitful design and looks.
2.Pants and skirt are tight.

The Nemmy blows this mod out of the water.

 

[dwcraig1]

Just because an 18650 has a nipple end doesn't necessarily make it longer than 65 mm, protected batteries are longer as well as some where the nipple was added by the company that's marketing them eg. Efest 18650 2250 nipple end IMR is 67 mm's long.

The battery spring is really stiff I must say.

 

[dwcraig1]

I have not seen this type of "enthusiasm" from a mod's fan boys since the debut of Smok's Vmax.
One must take great care in the forums when they mention that their clone performs as well as the original.
Consider yourself warned, now if only I can pay attention to what I just said.

 

[Snapdragon]

Okay - I need some advice.

I've wanted a Poldiac for ages. I ordered a clone from FT on Jan 2 and it hasn't even landed yet. MMVapors has the model I want in stock so I'm going to pull the pin. My question is, should I order any extras? I'm not a sub-ohmer, more like 1.2 - 1.3ohms.

So, oh Wise Ones, what else do I need?

 

[dwcraig1]

Okay - I need some advice.

I've wanted a Poldiac for ages. I ordered a clone from FT on Jan 2 and it hasn't even landed yet. MMVapors has the model I want in stock so I'm going to pull the pin. My question is, should I order any extras? I'm not a sub-ohmer, more like 1.2 - 1.3ohms.

So, oh Wise Ones, what else do I need?

You probably want extra contacts and battery springs and perhaps plastic switch parts. The shipping of those parts later will really add to their price.
If I were to buy one from them it would be a v2 'cause of the higher temp plastics.

 

[dwcraig1]

I just "fixed" my shirt on #2 so it doesn't move without loosening the 510 cap, I shall try it out for awhile before I do it to my other one.
The shirt moving around easily was the only thing about it that I didn't like.
Not going to post what I did but you can figure it out. (my disclaimer)