Possible Stinky Grommet Replacement

[Trayce]

The tubing arrived today and I ensconced myself in the bathroom with my heavy duty magnifying readers and a razor blade to give it a go. It seems to work fairly well, but I'm going to need some practice. I'm having trouble getting the tubing pushed far up enough into the head, and the lip sticking out is ending up thicker than the stock grommet.

It will ride up higher once you push in the pin. If you look at my pics in the 3rd post of this thread, you can see how far out it still is when I put the pin in.

Also the most important thing is to not squeeze the collar at this point. Just put in the pin until it's snugged up against the tube without "pushing into it"... it will snug up a little more when you install the tank, which you want to do lightly.

This causes some air flow problems, but unscrewing the tank a bit makes them usable. I tried cutting the tubing a little shorter than the stock grommet, and that helped some.

The problem with cutting the tube shorter is that when you put the tank on and the pin gets pushed up some more, you can end up with a very thin collar there and you don't want the pos pin touching the head.

It's still hard to get it wedged up in the tube. Makes me want some sort of tool to help wedge it up in there, but not sure what would work.

Might just be a matter of practice. I use my thumbnail to coax it past the negative leg which is usually the hangup point on getting it started. Sort of a squish and push thing. It also helps to wet it.

I think I made 3 total, and the first two were thick with air flow problems, but worked okay with the tank unscrewed a bit. The last one was thinner, but I had lost patience and put it aside to test later. I'll update when I do this.

Sorry you're having trouble. Granted the Aros don't have this air flow problem and it's a lot less trouble (in fact it's no trouble with the Aro tanks). But I did rebuild my PT2 again last night and it's vaping great.It really requires a light touch when putting it on your device though, to get full airflow, which delivers all the vapor and flavor (as you know)! Hope you have better luck...

 

[beckdg]

mist king tubing cutter... Mistking Tubing Cutter | eBay

for our friends in the greater north, mist king is centrally located in Canada... MistKing Misting Systems by Jungle Hobbies Ltd

perfect, straight cuts every time. much better than a razor. i used this on my misting systems when i was into vivariums. i've found it indispensable for other things utilizing 1/4" - 5/8" and round abouts OD tubing since then. makes installing R/O water filters a breeze for example. perfect for tubing inserted into john guest fittings for example. anyway... awesome tool. worth twice it's weight in gold.

you'll love it and wonder how you lived without it. i do.

thanks for the info, trayce. ordering tubing now.

 

[generic mutant]

This thread is interesting, thanks! I've got the same problem.

Unfortunately, the shipping cost to the UK is a bit steep.

I'm thinking here looks promising...

http://www.coleparmer.co.uk/Category/Silicone_Tubing/6762

Edit - and this one's rated up to 200C. Plus I'll look pretty fly with luminous green grommets...

[deleted link - see below]

Edit - OK, went for this one. Rated 200C, 2.4 x 4mm, food grade. Here's hoping it works...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clear-Tra...t=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item3f240bef84

 

[Trayce]

This thread is interesting, thanks! I've got the same problem.

Unfortunately, the shipping cost to the UK is a bit steep.

I'm thinking here looks promising...

Silicone Tubing from Cole-Parmer United Kingdom

Edit - and this one's rated up to 200C. Plus I'll look pretty fly with luminous green grommets...

2.3mm 3/32" I.D Silicone RC Nitro Glow Fuel Tubing Hose | eBay

Edit - OK, went for this one. Rated 200C, 2.4 x 4mm, food grade. Here's hoping it works...

Clear Translucent Silicone Tubing FDA Approved Milk Hose Beer Pipe Soft Rubber M | eBay

PHEW! I thought you got the fuel line at first!

When I was hunting for silicone I started off looking at hobby aircraft fuel line after seeing someone suggest it in another forum, and found some made by Nitro just like you found. However I'd previously read that food grade silicone is cloudy-white (by law), so I went to the Nitro website to read about the silicone used for fuel lines. There was a cancer-causing warning with this silicone (after you handle it you are supposed to wash your hands because it contains chemicals known to cause cancer).

This is an industrial grade silicone, not food grade. Food/medical grade will always be cloudy-white so that it is visually identifiable from other types of silicone (this is a safety thing so that hospitals etc don't end up using something they thought was medical grade silicone and turned out not to be). Fuel line is colored neon, etc, because it isn't allowed to be cloudy-white since it's not food grade. And if it WAS food grade they wouldn't be allowed to color it any other color.

So you picked the right one by going with the cloudy-white, food/medical grade tubing and not the neon fuel line!

 

[generic mutant]

Thanks for the detailed explanation!

I guess my plan if I ordered the other was to buy it, see if it fit, then research whether it was acceptable. Probably stupid, but when it costs a few £, it's easy to start thinking like that.

Once I realised they did food grade though, there's no sense in not getting that really if the other parameters appear similar. 200 C is a little lower than the one you found, but it should be fine for the legs I would think.

Again, thanks for a very useful thread.

 

[Trayce]

Thanks for the detailed explanation!

I guess my plan if I ordered the other was to buy it, see if it fit, then research whether it was acceptable. Probably stupid, but when it costs a few £, it's easy to start thinking like that.

I hear ya.

Once I realised they did food grade though, there's no sense in not getting that really if the other parameters appear similar. 200 C is a little lower than the one you found, but it should be fine for the legs I would think.

I'd think so too. And even if the silicone heats up now and then (or even chars) it won't release any smell or taste, anyway. So when you go to rebuild can just toss the charred one and replace it with a fresh one, if that's even ever necessary. But the average temp of a coil (I know... what's average when everyone vapes different?) but generally speaking I've read a sticky here somewhere that said it's about 250-350F, so 200C = nearly 400F which should put you in safe territory. If not you can always use it until you find some with a higher rating. No harm done! And like you say, for a few bucks...

I hope everyone who buys some will post their build experiences when they get it.... everyone's input, positive and negative alike, helps everyone else!

 

[Trayce]

Will be interested to hear other people's experiences but after a few days of using this now, I have come to the following conclusions:

1. Aro tanks are much easier to use with the tubing b/c air flow doesn't get blocked like with the PT2.

2. The PT2 is sort of a PITA as you have to be so careful not to screw the tank on too much, which leaves it almost not screwed on at all, because any pressure on the pin starts reducing air flow. I have certainly gotten it "perfect" (stabilizing with air flow controller) and vaped tanks fulls, but it's a hassle to get it to that perfect spot so every time I have to take it off to refill it I sort of think, "crud now I have to go through getting it just right again." However, the pay off is that I can use the tank again, and when it's working, it's a pleasure and the vape tastes GREAT. So it's better than having it shelved from the rubber taste.

3. At first, before I discovered the air flow problems and how even with the Aros you don't want to compress the pin too much because there is nothing to keep it from sliding up more, I was of a mind I would use this tubing even if silicone grommets became available b/c it would be cheaper and worked great to eliminate the rubber taste. Now, however, while I am still really happy I found a way to use the tanks again, if the silicone grommets become available as spare parts, I will use those instead to eliminate the issues with the tubing.

But boy is it nice to vape with tanks again!! Dripping is such a hassle!! And I have to say... these little pyrex Aro tanks are the best. I loved them before and I love them even more now. But I still like my PT2 too... it's just a little more temperamental.

 

[generic mutant]

I wonder what would happen if you cut two wedges, or even just slits, into the tube, at 90 degrees to the position of the atomiser legs?

So if you were looking down the tube before you put the pin in, you had the + leg, then 90 degrees round the tube's perimeter put a slit, then 90 degrees further round the - leg, then at 90 degrees from that another slit? Easy to visualise, hard to put into words.

Might still insulate, but open up the airflow when you push the pin in. I might give that a go, definitely with a short protected mod though...

 

[Trayce]

I wonder what would happen if you cut two wedges, or even just slits, into the tube, at 90 degrees to the position of the atomiser legs?

So if you were looking down the tube before you put the pin in, you had the + leg, then 90 degrees round the tube's perimeter put a slit, then 90 degrees further round the - leg, then at 90 degrees from that another slit? Easy to visualise, hard to put into words.

Might still insulate, but open up the airflow when you push the pin in. I might give that a go, definitely with a short protected mod though...

I hear what you are saying but think that would make the pin slide upward even easier when screwing on a tank and might increase the chance of a short.

The problem is two-fold, though one problem is being more of a problem than the other. Biggest problem is airflow. Your solution might help that by keeping the silicone from flaring out, but it could worsen the second problem, which is that the pin rides up every time you put on a tank if you aren't careful. You don't want the pin to get too close to the head or it will cause a short... plus you don't want the silicone grommet pushed up inside the head against the coil. So you need a collar down there to keep everything in place. I just don't think there is a way to add that functionality without perhaps doing something like using medical grade glue to glue an extra sheath of silicone around the bottom or something (or even just at two points... wouldn't have to be a ring). Which I considered but don't have any medical grade glue on hand and don't know if it would be safe anyway, though if sandwiched between two layers of silicone in tiny drops it shouldn't even get hot.

Am noodling it further but by the time I come up with something silicone grommets might be available. But love the ideas.... keep them coming... there probably IS an elegant solution to this... meanwhile I might see how much medical grade glue is...

 

[generic mutant]

I guess perhaps if you cut wide wedges out, you would be able to get away with using longer lengths of tube (or not pushing them in as far), providing more security for the pin. You'd have two parts of the head / pin intersection thoroughly blocked, and two parts completely open for air flow, and would have to tune the ratio between them...

I could see it working. But I don't have the tube in my hands yet, so this is all speculation...

 

[Trayce]

I guess perhaps if you cut wide wedges out, you would be able to get away with using longer lengths of tube (or not pushing them in as far), providing more security for the pin. You'd have two parts of the head / pin intersection thoroughly blocked, and two parts completely open for air flow, and would have to tune the ratio between them...

I could see it working. But I don't have the tube in my hands yet, so this is all speculation...

Well def report back when you get some tube. With any and all ventures!

 

[Trayce]

Found something of interest in another thread... OP having blocked airflow [thereby wicking/flooding] issues with PT2 and found a YouTube vid with a 10-yr-old kid (j/k but boy he looks young) suggesting swapping the PT2 base for the eGo mini/protank base.... The eGo base uses the eGo cone threads instead of the 510 connection, just like the Aro tanks.

Downside: The eGo base has a gunmetal beauty ring some ppl might not like and is not as wide as the standard base... so on something like a Vamo or SVD you'll have the "fat mod," a "slightly skinnier neck," then the neck flares up to the "fatter PT2" on top"... instead of them being all the same diameter.

However, it just might make the PT2 as vapable as the Aros.

Original thread, post #42: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/493445-my-wits-end-my-protank-2-a-5.html

YouTube Link shows eGo base with PT2: http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3haz-dLO8iU&feature=youtu.be

Base costs $2.99 + $2.99 shipping from Sun Vapers eGo base for mini Protank and Protank. - Sun-Vapers.com

Am keeping it in mind but prefer the look of the standard base so... might have to wait until I get more fed up to try that route.

 

[Trayce]

OK, hate to keep posting to my own thread, but this is interesting... this is copy/pasted from a COMMENT on the YouTube video linked above.... seems some of Kanger's new silicone grommets [the person commenting didn't realize he was referring to silicone] are bulging out like the tubing issue we are having, blocking airflow in the PT2...

Comment by Paul Brown on YouTube dated 1 week ago:

"appreciate the video. I just bought one a couple of days ago and had the same issues as stated above. I went to my local vape shop and we discovered the issue which is the atomizer. Apparently the manufacturer changed the material used for the gasket that is located towards the bottom of the atomizer, where the coil ends are covered/slightly exposed. When the tank screws in, the atomizer will compress a little bit as it hits the battery terminal. If you notice, the gasket towards the bottom is not flush in its indented area after the compression. When the atomizer compresses slightly, the gasket flares out and does not allow any air flow to the drilled holes of the tank. You can also press the battery end of the atomizer upwards and you'll notice the gasket flare out just a little bit when you don't have it screwed into the 510 base. Unfortunately, the fix for this is that you have to trim the gasket down just a little bit to allow it to be flush within its indented area. We discovered this when we compared a known working atomizer straight from a Pro Tank 2 box (presumably one that was made a while ago) and one that you buy when you need to replace. The original atomizer's gasket was solid white, and looked flush and flat against the surface. The second atomizer we looked at had a clearer gasket on it and looked more rubbery. Another thing to note is that NOT ALL atomizers with the clearer gaskets are faulty, it just depends how much "excess" gasket is present. Its a hit or miss thing. I hope this helps anyone who is having issues. Oh and we also drilled the holes to make them bigger, thinking that the holes were too low in the threads. This did not solve the issue with a faulty atomizer. My vape shop is going to contact Kanger and inform them that the gaskets they are using are faulty."

Wonder if Kanger will end up reverting back to the stiffer rubber grommets if this does turn out to be a problem over time? To be fair this is just one person's experience but it's very interesting given the trial here with silicone. Hmmmm....

 

[Spazmelda]

Hey, I tried cutting some wedges out of the tubing as someone (generic mutant) suggested earlier. It seems to work pretty well. I cut two wedges, right across from each other (180° from each other) to the depth of about halfway up the length of the tubing piece. They were very thin wedges, maybe removing 1/2 a mm at the widest part of the wedge. That side with the wedges removed then becomes the bottom of the grommet. I took care to insert the 'grommet' so that the wedges were 90° from the wires coming down from the coil. I've only made one, and it was kind of a pain to get it inserted, but it seems to be working fine. Resistance came out as expected, and even screwed all the way down, I'm getting normal air flow on the provari.

As an aside, I went ahead and ordered some of the grommets from Lightening Vapes that are supposed to fit the protank. That won't help if you are looking for a silicone replacement, but I've never had a problem with burnt rubber taste. I'm just trying to find a replacement for lost or destroyed grommets.

 

[Trayce]

Hey, I tried cutting some wedges out of the tubing as someone suggested earlier.

That would be generic mutant!

It seems to work pretty well. I cut two wedges, right across from each other (180° from each other) to the depth of about halfway up the length of the tubing piece. They were very thin wedges, maybe removing 1/2 a mm at the widest part of the wedge. That side with the wedges removed then becomes the bottom of the grommet. I took care to insert the 'grommet' so that the wedges were 90° from the wires coming down from the coil. I've only made one, and it was kind of a pain to get it inserted, but it seems to be working fine. Resistance came out as expected, and even screwed all the way down, I'm getting normal air flow on the provari.

Hey, that's great! Sounds like generic mutant was right on the money if you could even tighten it down a bit! Wow, that does surprise me, but very pleased to hear it!

As an aside, I went ahead and ordered some of the grommets from Lightening Vapes that are supposed to fit the protank. That won't help if you are looking for a silicone replacement, but I've never had a problem with burnt rubber taste. I'm just trying to find a replacement for lost or destroyed grommets.

Ah, yeah... well you might be happy you went through this exercise b/c rubber grommets never bothered me until one day out of the blue they were all I could taste... so don't throw that tubing away!

I had a great vape day yesterday... vaped all 3 of my tanks and had zero problems with anything, even on the PT2... (still using the same heads I built the other day)... was like the silicone settled in or something... was even thinking I really DON'T need to buy silicone grommets...

Every day is a surprise in vapeworld.

 

[MacTechVpr]

My PT2 and Aro tanks are shelved because of the nasty taste of the rubber post insulators (grommets). I emailed Kanger tonight asking them to make their new silicone post insulators available as spare parts...

The 3rd party sub for those grommets are already in rotation at my house received from Lighting Vapes. Remarks/pics at…

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...otank-2-replacement-parts-4.html#post11334005

I'm apt to try the silicone tubing. I'm operating a lot of tanks. But for those remaining singe worthy souls out there ^^^^^^.

Good luck!

 

[generic mutant]

Hey, I tried cutting some wedges out of the tubing as someone (generic mutant) suggested earlier...

I saw your ninja-edit.

But I take no offence at being called 'someone'. I've been called a lot worse on this forum... That's the trouble with having a generic username, I guess. But it means I can get away with terrible suggestions too

I'm in the same boat, by the way. No rubbery taste for me - just broke a grommet very easily taking a head apart to recoil / rewick it, and realised this would be an ongoing issue unless I could source replacements.

Even if the purpose-made ones appear again, it's pointless shipping stuff over the Atlantic if you can jury-rig a solution fairly easily...

ETA - as an aside, it amuses me that a few days ago I was getting annoyed when my PT heads died. Now I'm willing them to die as quickly as possible so I've got a stockpile for rebuilding. I should just tear 'em apart straight out of the box, but somehow can't bring myself to do it...

 

[Trayce]

ETA - as an aside, it amuses me that a few days ago I was getting annoyed when my PT heads died. Now I'm willing them to die as quickly as possible so I've got a stockpile for rebuilding.

I should just tear 'em apart straight out of the box, but somehow can't bring myself to do it...

I certainly can! I look at a stock head like the guts to something that needs to be built from scratch.... can't stand silicone after switching to cotton some time back, so that has to go... can't stand rubber, and don't like anything but a micro/mini coil as it can be rewicked so many times and hits so much better than a standard coil... So when I look at a brand new, unused head, I see a bad head with potential for being a great head.
I guess in all my building I finally happened upon the forumla/s that work for me and anything else just isn't acceptable anymore.

 

[Spazmelda]

I got two packs of 1.8ohm heads that I don't like. 1.8 just doesn't work well for me, so I'm gradually just ripping them apart and adding them to the 'parts cup'.

 

[MacTechVpr]

I certainly can! I look at a stock head like the guts to something that needs to be built from scratch.... can't stand silicone after switching to cotton some time back, so that has to go... can't stand rubber, and don't like anything but a micro/mini coil as it can be rewicked so many times and hits so much better than a standard coil... So when I look at a brand new, unused head, I see a bad head with potential for being a great head.
I guess in all my building I finally happened upon the forumla/s that work for me and anything else just isn't acceptable anymore.

[Silica] About as flavorful as a cheap warm beer.