This is a copper chuff enuff clone that I just got from an ebay seller. Its great!
Post pictures of your high quality clones!
- Thread starter DaveSignal
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Vapetech pegasus with an Ivogo Lancia. This Lancia is really nice. It came with all three barrels, the SS engraved, glass, and plastic. Also has all of the different caps to adjust the airflow. I like the vape with the airflow underneath the coils. And it has very good airflow. The only negative that I can find is that it doesn't seem to screw down perfectly on a few of my mods. Most are fine, though. I think its something to do with the machining tolerances of the 510 threading, but I don't really know. I would have liked to put it on a steam punk mod that I just recently acquired, but for some reason I can't get it to thread perfectly on that mod.
ETA: I have sent a video to the vendor (angelcigs) explaining that I think there may be a 510 threading issue with this otherwise great atty. I will update if they work out a way to fix the issue.
ETA: I have sent a video to the vendor (angelcigs) explaining that I think there may be a 510 threading issue with this otherwise great atty. I will update if they work out a way to fix the issue.
Last edited:
I spent a good deal of time looking for a good Oros clone. The authentic Oros is a solid tube with only a removable top cap. I was able to find this Oros, which is the same design. It came with a key to remove the button for cleaning, but the battery is inserted by removing the top cap. The only screwable parts are the lock ring and the top cap. This thing has a good deal of weight to it. The lock ring is so big and feels so smooth, and the switch has strong magnets. This thing feels so good to hold! And it hits so hard! The snake engraving is perfect. I found it at voltage vapor shop. Here are some pictures, the Dark Horse in the last shot is authentic.
I spent a good deal of time looking for a good Oros clone. The authentic Oros is a solid tube with only a removable top cap. I was able to find this Oros, which is the same design. It came with a key to remove the button for cleaning, but the battery is inserted by removing the top cap. The only screwable parts are the lock ring and the top cap. This thing has a good deal of weight to it. The lock ring is so big and feels so smooth, and the switch has strong magnets. This thing feels so good to hold! And it hits so hard! The snake engraving is perfect. I found it at voltage vapor shop. Here are some pictures, the Dark Horse in the last shot is authentic.
Man that is GORGEOUS! How do you keep the copper looking so good? I've avoided copper mods, as great as they look, because I have no idea how to prevent the typical patina.
Andria
I just got that Oros clone in the mail, so it is new. But I will keep it looking like that. I keep my copper clean by polishing it regularly. I do this by inserting the bottom 510 part of an old cartomizer or no-longer used tank atty (such as my original kanger aerotank) into the chuck on my cordless drill. Then I screw the mod onto the 510 that is chucked in my drill and run the drill to spin the mod quickly. While it is spinning, I hold a Cape Cod cloth on the mod and then switch to a microfiber cloth to buff dry. It only takes a minute or two.
Sometimes, I am just cleaning switch contacts, pins, or threads. In that case, I put the parts in a small plastic container and pour lemon juice on them. Then I clean them while in the lemon juice with a soft toothbrush or cue tips. Lemon juice (or vinegar) cleans copper very fast. When done, I rinse the parts in running tap water and dry.
Copper mods do require more work and thats why they are mainly enthusiast items. I love the look and they all perform excellently. And I enjoy polishing my mods.
Clear coat keeps your copper and brass mods looking new, or you can protect your force patinas the same way.
The specifics of the stuff that I use is first:
Polish and clean your mod like DaveSignal advised, then give it an acetone bath to remove any organic material from the surface of the mod, then let it dry for 30-40 minutes. Be sure to do all of this in a well ventilated area, and DEFINITELY WEAR A RESPIRATOR. I can't stress this enough. Most if not all of us are former smokers and have already compromised our pulmonary systems. Don't add risk just because you want something to be pretty. Wear that respirator!!!
Cover your threads and vent holes from the inside with petroleum jelly and use wine corks to seal off the ends.
For the clear coat, I use two different products. First I put 3 coats of Rust-oleum Painter's Touch 2x Ultra Cover Clear, timed 30 minutes between coats and 24h to dry. Then I come back and put 3 more layers of Blair Gloss Spray Damar Varnish, available at most art supply stores or available online here: Blair Artist Sprays
Let your mod dry for at least 48 hours or you'll end up with fingerprints in your clear coat. After it's dry, score the cork as close as you can to the edges of your mod so the clear coat doesn't crack and break when you take the cork out. Clean the petroleum jelly out of your threads with a dry paper towel. Don't use acetone or paint thinner as it will damage your clear coat. Just use paper towels and effort.
You'll eventually need to repeat this process as the varnish and clear coat will wear off with use. I can't give you a time frame with this method as I haven't had to re-coat any of my mods yet. I can tell you that you'll get at least 4 months of heavy use out of this method, and I've only seen a factory clear coat last 2 with heavy use before it started getting cloudy and needed to be stripped and recoated.
I hope this overanswers any questions anyone has about keeping your copper and brass mods looking pristine.
The specifics of the stuff that I use is first:
Polish and clean your mod like DaveSignal advised, then give it an acetone bath to remove any organic material from the surface of the mod, then let it dry for 30-40 minutes. Be sure to do all of this in a well ventilated area, and DEFINITELY WEAR A RESPIRATOR. I can't stress this enough. Most if not all of us are former smokers and have already compromised our pulmonary systems. Don't add risk just because you want something to be pretty. Wear that respirator!!!
Cover your threads and vent holes from the inside with petroleum jelly and use wine corks to seal off the ends.
For the clear coat, I use two different products. First I put 3 coats of Rust-oleum Painter's Touch 2x Ultra Cover Clear, timed 30 minutes between coats and 24h to dry. Then I come back and put 3 more layers of Blair Gloss Spray Damar Varnish, available at most art supply stores or available online here: Blair Artist Sprays
Let your mod dry for at least 48 hours or you'll end up with fingerprints in your clear coat. After it's dry, score the cork as close as you can to the edges of your mod so the clear coat doesn't crack and break when you take the cork out. Clean the petroleum jelly out of your threads with a dry paper towel. Don't use acetone or paint thinner as it will damage your clear coat. Just use paper towels and effort.
You'll eventually need to repeat this process as the varnish and clear coat will wear off with use. I can't give you a time frame with this method as I haven't had to re-coat any of my mods yet. I can tell you that you'll get at least 4 months of heavy use out of this method, and I've only seen a factory clear coat last 2 with heavy use before it started getting cloudy and needed to be stripped and recoated.
I hope this overanswers any questions anyone has about keeping your copper and brass mods looking pristine.
Guess I'll stick with stainless; that's all way too much trouble and expense, and I certainly don't have a respirator.
Andria
Can you post a picture of that onyx thats in the background? I have one too, but I haven't actually used it yet. How is it?
Nice mod! I just decided to test mine out. It is also a 1:1. I paid a bit more for it, since I didn't see that angelcigs had it last time I checked... oh well. I didn't notice it was as heavy before, but you are right, it is slightly heavier than many of my thick-metal mods. It seems to hit really hard... this may be just because I am using it now with a .15 ohm tri-coil onslaught atomizer, but it does work great. I like the look of it. It has much more unique and intricate designs with the holes and grooves and everything.
250W? Thats crazy. I didn't even know 250W mods existed. I can't even think of what I could possibly build that would work with that much power, but I'd love to try one if I ever see it.
The Zero Modz looks so classy. Would look great with a gold RDA.
I don't think I've seen any reviews of either of these yet.
You are absolutely right, it is completely excessive and will never be used by me
Well, I will at least fire it a few times at 250W for the sake of review, but there is no way that I will be inhaling that. This is where I have been vaping 
The great thing about the Zero is that you can keep changing the look by changing the sleeves. And I published a review of the Zero Modz almost two weeks ago
Zero Modz Clone Review | Vaping Cheap
The great thing about the Zero is that you can keep changing the look by changing the sleeves. And I published a review of the Zero Modz almost two weeks ago
I just read your review. I kind of wish that the Zero Modz would have used the sx350 that is in the sx version and the W-box. DNA30 is getting outdated. 250W is excessive, but 30W is not quite enough for all circumstances.
- Status
