Today i put a new carto on, waiting on my tank still. I got a gargling, i found some liquid got down on the inside of the provari where the carto connects. I Used a Q-tip to dry it. Is this bad for the unit when it happens? Also any suggestions on how best to clean it?
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Ditch the cartos and save up some money for a rebuildable atomizer 
Some great ones are the Z-atty Pro, GG Odysseus or Penelope, the DID, Hellfire, etc. Just my respectful 
as I was doing the carto tank thing for over a year and I've found rebuildables to provide a better draw, better flavor, and WAY better vapor production 
Not to mention rebuildables are consistent and you can create what resistance (ohm) coil you want every time you wrap a new coil. The control over your vaping experience is fantastic with them
Some great ones are the Z-atty Pro, GG Odysseus or Penelope, the DID, Hellfire, etc. Just my respectful as I was doing the carto tank thing for over a year and I've found rebuildables to provide a better draw, better flavor, and WAY better vapor production Not to mention rebuildables are consistent and you can create what resistance (ohm) coil you want every time you wrap a new coil. The control over your vaping experience is fantastic with them
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I haven't been on the forums in awhile. Just noticed your post. I will be looking into those, sounds interesting. The problems i seem to run into with carto/tank. Dct for some reason i was getting more vapor than boge and better flavor. However they would run dry fast, and i would have to drip, or wait. Also, the tanks would crack or cloud i did that to two. The boge i had a pack of bad ones to start. Now with my recent ones, they seem to keep up without drying out. I don't get as much vapor though, and it seems there is a break in time or something. After about two 3ml tank it works better, top of carto is always dry though. Once i did have a boge that produced a ton of vapor. The difference is like normally i get a good amount, but with that one, there was so much i could not see past the cloud. It may be something i am doing wrong, tried everything i could think of though. Ya kinda went on a rant there.
I realize that this is an older thread, but perhaps someone else with a similar issue may read this later.
I would not consider myself an expert, but I do have several working tanks in my collection. When a carto tank is working effeciently, it is a wonderful vaping experience. The secret to this is how effectively the juice is delivered to the inner carto and ultimately the coil(s) vaporizing the juice.
There are several variables that affect this juice delivery. The tank itself really has minimal impact, it is merely a container holding the juice. Things that do impact the juice delivery are as follows:
The number and size of the holes in the carto. Juice needs a way to get from the reservoir or holding area to inside the carto. Vacuum within the tank and the act of pulling air/vapor from the carto tip forces juice thru the carto holes to the filling material inside the cartomizer, where it is heated by the coil. How fast the juice can do this depends upon the number and size of the holes. Too small or too few holes causes a dry hit, drying of the carto filler, or even burning of the filler. Too large or too many holes will cause too much juice to enter the carto and cause flooding or leaking of the juice.
Whether to use pre-drilled cartos or to punch your own with a carto punch tool or slot the carto with a powered dremmel tool seems to be personal preference. Having done all three myself, I'm currently back to buying pre-drilled cartos. Punching my own cartos can have the side effect of distorting the carto to the point of making it difficult to pass thru the tank's endcap holes. My short experience with slotting ended up with flooding issues. I've had decent success with pre-drilled cartos, as long as I choose the correct number of holes for the viscosity of the juices that carto/tank will use.
Viscosity or thickness of juice used. Thinner viscosity juices, such as 100% pg, required only one hole, and a small one at that. Thicker juices, such as 100% vg, may need multiple holes or larger holes to allow the thicker juice more room to pass into the carto. Thicker juices will quickly clog the polyfill in the carto, preventing juice from getting to the coil, and cartos used with these juices will need to be replaced sooner than with thinner juices.
Higher voltage, low resistance, and dual coil vaping. More heat and multiple heating coils will burn more juice, and faster. This may put additional strain on the efficiency of the juice delivery to the coils, and appropriate adjustments will need to be made.
Vaping technique. Someone who is a chain vapor will put increased demands upon the juice delivery system than someone who only vapes off and on. Especially with thicker juices, additional time to allow juices to wick into the carto will be required.
I would not consider myself an expert, but I do have several working tanks in my collection. When a carto tank is working effeciently, it is a wonderful vaping experience. The secret to this is how effectively the juice is delivered to the inner carto and ultimately the coil(s) vaporizing the juice.
There are several variables that affect this juice delivery. The tank itself really has minimal impact, it is merely a container holding the juice. Things that do impact the juice delivery are as follows:
The number and size of the holes in the carto. Juice needs a way to get from the reservoir or holding area to inside the carto. Vacuum within the tank and the act of pulling air/vapor from the carto tip forces juice thru the carto holes to the filling material inside the cartomizer, where it is heated by the coil. How fast the juice can do this depends upon the number and size of the holes. Too small or too few holes causes a dry hit, drying of the carto filler, or even burning of the filler. Too large or too many holes will cause too much juice to enter the carto and cause flooding or leaking of the juice.
Whether to use pre-drilled cartos or to punch your own with a carto punch tool or slot the carto with a powered dremmel tool seems to be personal preference. Having done all three myself, I'm currently back to buying pre-drilled cartos. Punching my own cartos can have the side effect of distorting the carto to the point of making it difficult to pass thru the tank's endcap holes. My short experience with slotting ended up with flooding issues. I've had decent success with pre-drilled cartos, as long as I choose the correct number of holes for the viscosity of the juices that carto/tank will use.
Viscosity or thickness of juice used. Thinner viscosity juices, such as 100% pg, required only one hole, and a small one at that. Thicker juices, such as 100% vg, may need multiple holes or larger holes to allow the thicker juice more room to pass into the carto. Thicker juices will quickly clog the polyfill in the carto, preventing juice from getting to the coil, and cartos used with these juices will need to be replaced sooner than with thinner juices.
Higher voltage, low resistance, and dual coil vaping. More heat and multiple heating coils will burn more juice, and faster. This may put additional strain on the efficiency of the juice delivery to the coils, and appropriate adjustments will need to be made.
Vaping technique. Someone who is a chain vapor will put increased demands upon the juice delivery system than someone who only vapes off and on. Especially with thicker juices, additional time to allow juices to wick into the carto will be required.
Baditude, thanks for that info. I am using 3ohm boge from vapedudes, two big holes. Have either phiniac, or texas tuff tank. Which is actually pretty good. It's the liquid is 50/50. I have a problem with the 80/20 that i got through provari, caused throat irritation. The 50/50 does not. Do you think a 70/30 may be better if it absorbs faster.
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