I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but I'm not sure you realize what I said is not what I meant.
Premiums: More to consider than the rubber cap
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I understand what I thought you meant perfectly, how could I not? The problem is that what you thought you meant was not what you said you thought, so think about what you mean before you tell us what you meant to say.
hard or soft cap premiums are fine by me since i remove the caps anyway...... i find that the soft caps tend to condense the vapor more than the hard caps leaving a little juice on the tip after a few continues puffs. the hard caps do the same but take a little longer, in any case like i said i remove the caps and replace them with some really cool after-market tips that are meant for dripping but work great on V4L carto's, for me they completely eliminate the condensation issue and dissipate a lot of the heat you get on your lips from non-stop vaping.
Are they just the regular 510/901 drip tips? I haven't tried using one on a carto - other than just satisfying my curiosity that they do fit. I haven't actually used it because it seems like dripping down the center would drip into the center tube of the carto.
Maybe it would drip down the side wall into the filler, but even then I like to see when the filler looks full and wet, and I like to drip on the side of the filler that has the heating coil on it...
Maybe it would drip down the side wall into the filler, but even then I like to see when the filler looks full and wet, and I like to drip on the side of the filler that has the heating coil on it...
yes they are meant for a 501/901 and made by a vendor here on ecf, they are made out of Stainless Steel, Aluminum, and Delrin and come in short and regular lengh (this might give you a clue as to who the vendor is). I use the short version and the fit is perfect, i don't drip with them since the juice will fall into the wind tunnel but you could just as easily remove it and drip the way that you mentioned. I will take a picture later for all to see......
My intent is not to revive a thread that has been dead for a week, but since the OP was mine, and I've settled on my preferred carto I thought an update would be a good idea.
I've settled on the rubber caps for two minor reasons:
1. They seem to perform better at lower voltages. I can't really tell the difference on a fresh battery, but as the battery starts to fade and voltage drops the soft caps seem to keep up their performance better even with the struggling battery.
2. They are easier to deal with when I overfill. If you put one drop too many in the carto the performance really suffers until you manage to vape that extra drop away - or just dab it out with a piece of tissue. You can't really dab the hard caps 'cause the wire and center tube thing stick up too high to dab the filler. Stupid little think I know, but I put one drop too many A LOT, so I have to dab a couple times a day and not being able to get in there easy is annoying.
So I guess I still don't really care since my reasons are very minor points, they both perform great and are a huge improvement over the old standard cartos. But, I have a slight leaning towards the soft caps even though I personally could care less about the soft caps themselves.
I've settled on the rubber caps for two minor reasons:
1. They seem to perform better at lower voltages. I can't really tell the difference on a fresh battery, but as the battery starts to fade and voltage drops the soft caps seem to keep up their performance better even with the struggling battery.
2. They are easier to deal with when I overfill. If you put one drop too many in the carto the performance really suffers until you manage to vape that extra drop away - or just dab it out with a piece of tissue. You can't really dab the hard caps 'cause the wire and center tube thing stick up too high to dab the filler. Stupid little think I know, but I put one drop too many A LOT, so I have to dab a couple times a day and not being able to get in there easy is annoying.
So I guess I still don't really care since my reasons are very minor points, they both perform great and are a huge improvement over the old standard cartos. But, I have a slight leaning towards the soft caps even though I personally could care less about the soft caps themselves.
Well, the hard cap manufacturer has now converted to soft caps at our request, so all new cartos will now have soft caps. The hard caps will live on a while yet from our back stock, but will eventually disappear. They also upgraded their filler material, and expanded their capacity to the same 1.0ml as the rest of our cartos.
But that's not the end of our plans, of course. We're working with yet another manufacturer to develop an even more improved version of the current cartomizer, AND we have a US engineer working on a totally new cartomizer design! We will never be satisfied with the status quo, and will always strive for better!
But that's not the end of our plans, of course. We're working with yet another manufacturer to develop an even more improved version of the current cartomizer, AND we have a US engineer working on a totally new cartomizer design! We will never be satisfied with the status quo, and will always strive for better!
Again - the reason why I love V4L!
I'm no engineer, but I was thinkin' maybe a coil style wire/atomizer would help more evenly distribute the heat throughout the wick... could the wire be wrapped in along with the filler? Then increase the length of the center metal tube and perforate it - are these are press fitted in with the gasket?
I'm actually quite curious as to how these things are assembled.
Leaford - can you make some video of cartomizer manufacturing process?
I love V4L. Even if it hurts my wallet sometimes...it is the kind of pain you only feel if you want too. dominatrix4life
Has anyone tried to dissect the hard and soft caps to see if they have different Nichrome wire gauges? I've been reading about one going too hot while the other is just right. The first thing that pops in my head is diff wire thickness. I think a thinner wire of the same length would heat up faster and hotter than a same length but thicker wire. Are both made from the same manufacturer?
Yes, no, no, yes, yes, no.
The difference in resistance is due a different number of coils - ergo a different length of wire - which is what one would expect for economies of scale.
The difference in resistance is due a different number of coils - ergo a different length of wire - which is what one would expect for economies of scale.
Oh. Ok. I thought was just looped wire. I did notice some of the uncovered portion of the atomizer/wire wrinkled when I pull them out...so maybe a little bit of it is coiled. I thought that was just from "stuffing" the wire in.
I meant to coil the wire entirely within the wick.
you are way cool Adrenalynn 
What gen. carto did that come out of?
You're ability, and the lack of mine has increased my motivation to see one apart cleanly. So, I cut the tube with a dremel diamond wheel to see for myself.
How the hell did you manage to press that sucker out?
Thanks again!
Thanks for the kind words!
That one looks like a non-premium. I've got photos of all of them around here somewhere.
Notch the base in three places through the outside cylinder at the base, carefully leaving the base-piece hopefully un-nicked. I use a carbide cutter on the Dremel, but a cut-off wheel will work (with less precision).
Once the three notches are all the way through the outside cylinder, use a small flat screw driver to gently spread those bottom notches apart, away from the base-piece. That releases the tension and you can draw the whole base, atomizer, batting, etc off carefully so as not to break the wire.
YMMV, but I've never broken one that way.
That one looks like a non-premium. I've got photos of all of them around here somewhere.
Notch the base in three places through the outside cylinder at the base, carefully leaving the base-piece hopefully un-nicked. I use a carbide cutter on the Dremel, but a cut-off wheel will work (with less precision).
Once the three notches are all the way through the outside cylinder, use a small flat screw driver to gently spread those bottom notches apart, away from the base-piece. That releases the tension and you can draw the whole base, atomizer, batting, etc off carefully so as not to break the wire.
YMMV, but I've never broken one that way.
'Lynn is pretty dang smart. And capable. And good-looking. Also, she owns 51% of my soul.
And capable. And good-looking. Also, she owns 51% of my soul.
That's a great pic. I'd love to see all three pics side by side. Also, can I have a some of Belletrist's soul? Just like a couple percent. My ghost in a jar is lonely, needs something to hang out with. 10 Extraordinarily Peculiar eBay Purchases|The Best Article Every day
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