Printed DNA 40 Bottom Feeder Mod

[tiburonfirst]

Then I'm hopin you at least triple your home insurance with a double indemnity for electrical fires

no need - until somebody creates a mod where i can use my stash of connectors i shall refrain

 

[BobC]

Now all you need is the tool belt and the .... crack

 

[BobC]

Funny thing, my first ever solder turned out to be beautiful and working well with dna40, what I failed at is gluing and sanding and making sure the height is right when dealing with a Gdibina . It sits now looking like a Frankenstein with the internals butchered. One day I will go back .

Nobody puts GDibbi in the corner!
Send it my way, it'll be very happy being with my other wood GDNAs

 

[Rossum]

Nobody puts GDibbi in the corner!

A corner is acceptable, provided it's on a pedestal and all the lesser mods remain respectfully at a lower level.

 

[tiburonfirst]

Now all you need is the tool belt and the .... crack

did i say anything about taking up plumbing?

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Now all you need is the tool belt and the .... crack

And the shirt!

 

[Vince159]

TC sensitivity to poor connections (any chip I've messed with so far) does not favor multiple connections and solder points. Though well connected gdna mods do however work quite reliably if everything is tuned top to bottom. Some prints take a lot of tuning for a good solid TC experience. I've put together a few gdna shells and every one has been slightly different.

If a print design eliminated the hobby connectors such as by keeping the electronics connected in the center like the Peko, I think more people would have better success.

Personally I like the smaller early print series better than the later versions. Still, I've not seen a better bottom fed TC mod from purchased parts.

Oh... I found a small screen DNA40 that was tucked away so my Lipo Tibs/Bap mod got TC and a heavier spring in the 510! Here's some TC mods handy on my bench that I lined up the day I did that swap.
View attachment 521348[/QUOTE

Looks a lot like my house. I've been through many gdna builds, and this is my last one, and of course it gave me a problem from, no exaggeration, 2 maybe 3 mm with one deans; it was just right at the vital contact point. I love these mods, and never had this much trouble with one. One out of about 15, not so bad I guess. Eliminating the hobby connectors is the future.

 

[Vince159]

Chuckle... small world it is

Anyway, the blue gdna has been working great all day driving a nickel clapton that had a few days of use. The top now snaps together nice and solid. This is my first of a newer printed shell type and was interesting trying to figure out how to take it apart since I'd never seen one before. Nice print design gdeal did with those!

Looked, to me, like the key to these working right is getting the magnets set so they just make contact when fully seated. So, the body side magnets were my last assembly step by setting them into position using a fully assembled top to press them into place for a perfectly matched magnetic contact plane. Also, when checking how the parts fit together, I shaved the whole top of the body by a bunch (maybe 1/32") and the top of the center connecter carriers got shaves too so that the connector faces were flush (provided full seating into each other).

Duly Noted! That Mod, never gave me a bit of trouble, in fact I like it, alot; a true mystery, aside from your remarks. I've always seated the top with a good strong snugging, BUT obviously, they can be made to fit, and connect, easier and better

 

[BobC]

I've built numerous GDNA/GDibbis over the last two years, soldering has always been the easiest part of the build, Cap/Internal/Shell/Deans alignment is always the most time consuming

 

[Vince159]

Yeah I know what you mean. this 2mm thing really kinda threw me. I guess I've been very lucky till now.

 

[TyCreek]

... I've always seated the top with a good strong snugging, ...

This can work great "for a while" ... but when the snugging fit wears off, the magnets are VERY key to maintaining long term stability. The Magnets need to touch and lock together. With that one I rebuilt, the magnets had a gap and did not lock together so even though a bad switch was its primary dysfunction its TC stability was doomed. I don't know what the original instructions state for mounting the magnets but there should be a note to ensure they are set into place in the body by using the fixed position top cap magnets so that all 6 make exactly the same contact simultaneously with the mating print surfaces.

A nicely tuned shell should sort of click into a locked position as the magnets contact each other. The top should not move. For long term TC reliability it is important that snugging or friction in the shell bypass surfaces is not relied on as part of the contact equation.

 

[Aal_]

Nobody puts GDibbi in the corner!
Send it my way, it'll be very happy being with my other wood GDNAs

Meh, I look at it every now and then ...

 

[BobC]

Very happy with mine