Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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Happy holidays everyone!
I've been lurking on this thread for the last few months, trying to work up the nerve to actually attempt to build one of these. No experience soldering, in electronics or in building a mod, but I figure if I want a bottom fed dna mod, it ain't going to build itself. I went through the build docs a few times and reread all the posts from the beginning. I think I know what to do in general, but I hope you all don't mind if I hit you guys up with some questions.
First question is, do I need fuses if all I'm building is a single 18650 box? Will 2 8 amp fuses be enough for a DNA40?
Thanks!
I've been lurking on this thread for the last few months, trying to work up the nerve to actually attempt to build one of these. No experience soldering, in electronics or in building a mod, but I figure if I want a bottom fed dna mod, it ain't going to build itself. I went through the build docs a few times and reread all the posts from the beginning. I think I know what to do in general, but I hope you all don't mind if I hit you guys up with some questions.
First question is, do I need fuses if all I'm building is a single 18650 box? Will 2 8 amp fuses be enough for a DNA40?
Thanks!
First off, welcome to the thread!
I can't answer your question about the fuses. I misplaced mine after opening the packaging (they are very tiny) and decided just to run without them.
I would suggest getting some experience soldering, watch some videos and practice on some kind of circuit board. Find something broken or cheap around the house you can sacrifice for science. Work on soldering/unsoldering wires or components from the board. You need to be able to get the connection points hot enough to join solidly, but not so hot as to damage the board itself.
The majority of the soldering on the DNA40 itself is on one end and close together. You need to be able to do those connections without getting the board too hot, or accidentally bridging multiple connection points with solder. It's not really that hard but I suggest you practice on something cheaper.
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Thanks for the reply OTG. For the DNA40 with 16A max, do you think 3 7A fuses would work? Just didnt want to run into problems with the 2 fuses tripping. Thanks!
Yep I hear you! Been watching videos on soldering all week and I'm raring to actually get some practice in. I was planning on getting on of those arduino kits off Amazon so I can practice soldering. I figure spending a little money on practice is better than messing up a DNA chip. That would really pi$$ me off
Good to know that going without fuses can be done. Thanks!
Thanks for the links gdeal. I've actually been studying those videos for the last couple days lol. Especially that second clip, he just rips through the whole thing and makes it look so easy. Guess you could say I'm kinda excited, not to mention nervous.
Been meaning to ask, do you have any recommendations for the type of fuses I need to use for a DNA40 build? I think it was Mike who posted a while back that the 7A fuses wont work for the DNA40. Any alternatives or should I just drop the fuses altogether?
Finally, thank you so much for all the work you've done in coming up with and sharing how to build this mod! It really is an awesome piece of work!
Been meaning to ask, do you have any recommendations for the type of fuses I need to use for a DNA40 build? I think it was Mike who posted a while back that the 7A fuses wont work for the DNA40. Any alternatives or should I just drop the fuses altogether?
Finally, thank you so much for all the work you've done in coming up with and sharing how to build this mod! It really is an awesome piece of work!
IMO, there's little or no point to using fuses in the DNA40 version of this mod. The original idea in the DNA30 version was that it might provide some reverse battery protection, however it was not effective for most people (myself included). The DNA40 already has reverse battery protection. I have two of these mods currently in service, one is 30 and one is a 40. Neither have fuses.
+1000!
Thank you gentlemen, for making this easier 
And thanks to you too Rossum for everything you've contributed to this thread.
I'm off to order all the parts. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions lol
And thanks to you too Rossum for everything you've contributed to this thread.
I'm off to order all the parts. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions lol
One tip is make sure all parts fit snug before you paint and or seal. Don't force things together. If it's a touch too tight, give the contact surfaces a little scrape with an exacto knife or some fine 150 or so sandpaper. Work each part until its contact spots are snug but removable. If the fire button pushes down too far with the top cap clamped in place (most noticed with the Alps switch setup), just trim/scrape a little around the lip surface vs. trimming the contact pin. If coating the shell by brush, keep the bottom screw holes clear of excessive buildup because chipping clear coat out later trying to get the screw heads flush is more effort.
FWIW... I no longer put wire through the solder holes but rather tin the holes first so that theres solder contact through and on both sides of the contact. Tin the wire ends. Then with simultaneous contacting the iron tip with the wire end and hole, I solder the wire onto and partially into the hole. You can actually feel the wire melt into place. This method while theoretically isn't best... it is forgiving, easy and fast! Almost guarantees the solder joint contact with the board is good.
Use a loupe or other magnifier to inspect for and remove any stray wires.
FWIW... I no longer put wire through the solder holes but rather tin the holes first so that theres solder contact through and on both sides of the contact. Tin the wire ends. Then with simultaneous contacting the iron tip with the wire end and hole, I solder the wire onto and partially into the hole. You can actually feel the wire melt into place. This method while theoretically isn't best... it is forgiving, easy and fast! Almost guarantees the solder joint contact with the board is good.
Use a loupe or other magnifier to inspect for and remove any stray wires.
Evolve hooked me up with a new DNA40 board for the 10 dollar screen replacement charge. The cut off my control wires and sent them back with the new board. Awesome customer service. Squonking on my GDNA right now. I forgot how much I missed a bottom feeder. Thanks for the help everyone.
Thanks for all the tips, guys
Another question. In Ty's wiring diagram, one of the wires goes from a connector in the top cap to battery -. Is battery negative the hex nut that goes under the fire switch?
Another question. In Ty's wiring diagram, one of the wires goes from a connector in the top cap to battery -. Is battery negative the hex nut that goes under the fire switch?
A single strand of black wire soldered to the hex and 510 keeper nuts with a middle section of insulation cut away for soldering to the mini connector lug allows making just one solder joint on that negative post instead of 2.
Did you twist those two ends together and then solder to the mini connector? Or twist and solder both ends together and then solder to connector? Can't quite tell from the pic
That's just one wire soldered to the hex nut and the other end to 510 keeper nut. I just cut a small section of shielding off there in the middle for soldering to the mini connector post. No twisting.
I find it easier to solder wires to the mini connector terminals while the connectors are set in place. Here's one a little farther along that I did today.
Ready for the final assembly and epoxy.
I find it easier to solder wires to the mini connector terminals while the connectors are set in place. Here's one a little farther along that I did today.
Ready for the final assembly and epoxy.
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