Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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Also, why does FatDaddy still make a 510 connector with air-slots?...... Wouldn't that be prone to leaking all over the top of the mod?
Still trying to see how I can make the 510 itself a little bit more or completely leakproof. Don't want to be squeezing the bottle and getting juice all over the top of my mod from in between the mod and the atty.
Still trying to see how I can make the 510 itself a little bit more or completely leakproof. Don't want to be squeezing the bottle and getting juice all over the top of my mod from in between the mod and the atty.
CA is Cyanoacrylate Glue "Krazy Glue"
The FD connector was made for box mods, not for bottom feeders. We are modifying them for Bottom Feeding. the FD classic used here doesnt have slots, the new FD connector does. O-rings do the job for sealing leaks. Its not perfect, but it works. Actually the best way to eliminate leaks from the equation is to make a hybrid center post. One that goes from the atty straight to the juice bottle. Havent seen that yet.....
I could CAD up a design if you are interested to machine one. But it would need to be atty specific and may not work for all atties.
Huh? All the ones I got do have two slots. In fact, it would be somewhat challenging to get everything assembled snugly without those slots.
I'll vouch for that. I've been vaping one of these since July and have had no issues with leaks. There's an o-ring that sits just outside the FD connector between bottom of your atty and the body of the mod that prevents leaks there. You can see it in this picture:
It does take a bit of fiddling during setup to get everything adjusted so that the atty's center pin makes contact with the drilled out screw that acts as the 510's centerpin while at the same time compressing the upper o-ring an appropriate amount.
Sorry Tex that's a bap custom stainless button, you won't find it on shapeways 
Also I finally got my 9ml bottles!!!
I had some tubing with a little bigger ID. I stuffed a piece of 12g hypo needle into the tubing and drilled out the cap so it was tight enough to compress the tubing to seal and the needle keeps the ID free flowing. This setup has ~2mm ID all the way through, it really pumps some juice. Just a nice soft squonk is all that is needed.
Also I finally got my 9ml bottles!!!
I had some tubing with a little bigger ID. I stuffed a piece of 12g hypo needle into the tubing and drilled out the cap so it was tight enough to compress the tubing to seal and the needle keeps the ID free flowing. This setup has ~2mm ID all the way through, it really pumps some juice. Just a nice soft squonk is all that is needed.
OK, I'm in, now time to catch up before I go to Shapeways.....
Bap, have you tried Cerakote on these yet?
Edit: OK, started at post 500 and am caught up from there.
Bap, have you tried Cerakote on these yet?
Edit: OK, started at post 500 and am caught up from there.
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OK, do I have this right?
If the new FD hollow pin works, the only thing that gdeal would change is the top cap around the 510 hole.
Assuming that is correct, if I pull the trigger now, will this design lend itself to swapping out the top cap at a later date if that proves advantageous? That is without destroying stuff in the process? It appears that you could even have two top caps of different designs and they might be interchangeable, as long as the the mini connector and the magnet locations didnt change.
Second question, is the view worth the climb to CA or polyurethane the internals?
If the new FD hollow pin works, the only thing that gdeal would change is the top cap around the 510 hole.
Assuming that is correct, if I pull the trigger now, will this design lend itself to swapping out the top cap at a later date if that proves advantageous? That is without destroying stuff in the process? It appears that you could even have two top caps of different designs and they might be interchangeable, as long as the the mini connector and the magnet locations didnt change.
Second question, is the view worth the climb to CA or polyurethane the internals?
Order #726428 contains:
• 1x DNA V3.1 - Body- Ring Spacer Version in White Strong & Flexible
• 1x DNA V3.1 - Fire Button For Alps Tact Switch (Low) in Metallic Plastic
• 1x DNA V3.1 - Thinner External Ring Space in Metallic Plastic
• 1x DNA V3.1 - Top Cap - Fat Daddy 510 in White Strong & Flexible
• 1x DNA V3.1 - Internal Assembly - Fat Daddy 510 in White Strong & Flexible
• 1x SX350 Hammond 1590G Face Plate - No Logo in White Strong & Flexible
• 1x DNA V3.1 - Body- Ring Spacer Version in White Strong & Flexible
• 1x DNA V3.1 - Fire Button For Alps Tact Switch (Low) in Metallic Plastic
• 1x DNA V3.1 - Thinner External Ring Space in Metallic Plastic
• 1x DNA V3.1 - Top Cap - Fat Daddy 510 in White Strong & Flexible
• 1x DNA V3.1 - Internal Assembly - Fat Daddy 510 in White Strong & Flexible
• 1x SX350 Hammond 1590G Face Plate - No Logo in White Strong & Flexible
Yes, there are two options if you want to use the new pin with the spring loaded 510. You can either grind the ring on the new 510 down to fit the smaller diameter recess in the current top cap. Or I can easily upload a newer top cap with a larger recess which could be swapped out with the existing top cap. The only thing holding the top cap in place is a compression fit provided by the 510 connector. So it would be easily done if someone wanted to do it. Nothing is destroyed. The internal top cap part wont need to change, so no effect on the mini connectors or the magnets.
I dont think you need the CA or polyurethane in the internals. I havent had any issues keeping it untreated. It will show some wear/scuffs over time, but nothing that is significant. No juice has ever made its way in there either. But I havent had any catastrophic bottle leaks etc....Just need to keep an eye on your equipment. I do a quick check every time I do a bat change or re fill juice.
I dont think you need the CA or polyurethane in the internals. I havent had any issues keeping it untreated. It will show some wear/scuffs over time, but nothing that is significant. No juice has ever made its way in there either. But I havent had any catastrophic bottle leaks etc....Just need to keep an eye on your equipment. I do a quick check every time I do a bat change or re fill juice.
Cool, if the new FD turns out to be significantly better then I will just order another cap.
Thanks gdeal. And thanks for doing all of this. I have seen it from the sidelines but wasnt really interested until Tibs got me involved in the Co-op deal. Now I figured I will give a shot, wholeheartedly, and see if I can warm up to a dripper, maybe having it sitting on top of good hardware will make the difference.
Once you squonk...you never go back...lol...
No problem and thank you for putting your expertise in here. I am not sure if the new FD BF connector will work better, we have to see that first. But it would eliminate that pesky screw hole challenge.
No problem and thank you for putting your expertise in here. I am not sure if the new FD BF connector will work better, we have to see that first. But it would eliminate that pesky screw hole challenge.
Yep, got one of the SX350s collecting dust so I ordered this while I was in there.
I could make a hybrid post.... But you are right about it being atty specific. I have a NoName NoTank on its way just for this SquonkBox and already started to make a post for my Veritas to make it a bottom feeder.
Only thing about a hybrid post is that it will have to stay completely stationary in the mod, so that it doesn't spin when taking the atty off. A spinning hybrid post could lead to a positive post wire to be either long enough to twist with the atty, or some kind of floating lead.
I'll try to draw something up.... I'm not a CNC guy, all my equipment has analog and/or DRO's and my CAD is so long overdue that I probably don't remember how to work it. Pencil and paper are good for me until I draw actual prints.
Only thing about a hybrid post is that it will have to stay completely stationary in the mod, so that it doesn't spin when taking the atty off. A spinning hybrid post could lead to a positive post wire to be either long enough to twist with the atty, or some kind of floating lead.
I'll try to draw something up.... I'm not a CNC guy, all my equipment has analog and/or DRO's and my CAD is so long overdue that I probably don't remember how to work it. Pencil and paper are good for me until I draw actual prints.
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