Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

[Nautilusfan]

Really digging the way the semi-gloss came out.
Once they cure for 72 hours I'll take better pictures.

Method

1. brush well with never used paint brush to remove print dust
2. apply 4 to 6 light coats in alternating directions
3. mod should look 'wet' all over
4. let flash off for 15 minutes in warm, dry, ventilated area
5. repeat steps 2-4 an additional 5 times

Note that when applying successive coats
Previous coat should haze over (fog up)
This is what you want, contrary to what your heart/brain complex believes
If any area isn't hazed, touch it up lightly feathering in the poly
After flashing off for about 5 minutes the poly will become clear again - don't panic, carry a towel

Really like the look Jake!!

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Got all of my parts coming...... Will have to use two 7amp fuses in parallel instead of the 14 amp, but that is marginally better electronically anyway.

Grrr....my parts shipment is waiting on one button and one ring......COME ON!!!!

Anyway, I got a couple of questions. The fuses we are using here are similar to the ones in the Tibs mod thread. Thought they were exact, but seems like I remember the number 700 printed on the fuses where these show I9. But regardless, this is the question. The normal load current is 7amp and the trip current is 14 amps. Two in parallel lowers the v drop, but raises trip point to roughly double. So now we have a normal current of 14amps and a trip current of approximately 28 amps. Am I looking at something wrong here as that seems awfully high to me. On my single battery mods, I am just running one 7 amp fuse, which is fine for my power levels. Anyway, was just putting the question out there since the parts list indicates two 7A fuses.

Also been thinking about implementing reverse battery protection. Instead of using the normal mosfet method, I was thinking a little different. Here is the post I made on Mamu's thread about polarity protection. Let me know what you'll think of it. Don't shoot me, not an electronics design engineer, just a simple instrument tech.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rse-polarity-protection-dna.html#post14118566

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Really digging the way the semi-gloss came out.
Once they cure for 72 hours I'll take better pictures.

Method

1. brush well with never used paint brush to remove print dust
2. apply 4 to 6 light coats in alternating directions
3. mod should look 'wet' all over
4. let flash off for 15 minutes in warm, dry, ventilated area
5. repeat steps 2-4 an additional 5 times

Note that when applying successive coats
Previous coat should haze over (fog up)
This is what you want, contrary to what your heart/brain complex believes
If any area isn't hazed, touch it up lightly feathering in the poly
After flashing off for about 5 minutes the poly will become clear again - don't panic, carry a towel

Very nice looking. Question: I am using the gloss poly, same brand. So by doing the quickly successive coats, do you not have to rough the surface? I couldn't read the fine print instructions when I was outside doing my last mod, I just figured it was the rule....D'oh! Did I do more work than needed?

 

[jakematic]

Now I'm sure I will get the white one. Will be ordering tomorrow.

Tell me something subjectively. I was thinking the ring and button would be the strong and flexible (grainy) and the body and cap polished. Do you think it is a good match? I don't like same look all over and I'm really digging the white for possibility of painting and because I don't have white mods

Yep, if this fails I'm going with white and something like Krylon Fusion.

WSF is quite grainy and will need to be sealed or it will pick up schmutz.
I think the contrast between polished and standard would look good.
Several people have described polished as a suede look.

Got me thinking... I may order a white one to put the polished premium silver spacer ring and stainless button on

Very nice looking. Question: I am using the gloss poly, same brand. So by doing the quickly successive coats, do you not have to rough the surface? I couldn't read the fine print instructions when I was outside doing my last mod, I just figured it was the rule....D'oh! Did I do more work than needed?

I can't see any point in roughing it - it soaks in like crazy anyway.
Especially if it's a colored plastic - too much risk of burning through the dye layer.
See mikepetro's post about the red pieces a few pages back.

 

[Mr.Reliant]

I am a little confused about the fatdaddy parts required...
What do I need in order to use the new FD "Bottom Feeder Bottle Attachment"?
Will it work with the new "510 Connectors V3"... If so which one? With or without locking wash - Wood or regular?
I would also need a pack of the new bottom feeder pins as well right?

I am trying to end up with the easiest to setup feed system that will be reliable and leak resistant. (other suggestions welcome)

THanks!

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Grrr....my parts shipment is waiting on one button and one ring......COME ON!!!!

Anyway, I got a couple of questions. The fuses we are using here are similar to the ones in the Tibs mod thread. Thought they were exact, but seems like I remember the number 700 printed on the fuses where these show I9. But regardless, this is the question. The normal load current is 7amp and the trip current is 14 amps. Two in parallel lowers the v drop, but raises trip point to roughly double. So now we have a normal current of 14amps and a trip current of approximately 28 amps. Am I looking at something wrong here as that seems awfully high to me. On my single battery mods, I am just running one 7 amp fuse, which is fine for my power levels. Anyway, was just putting the question out there since the parts list indicates two 7A fuses.

Also been thinking about implementing reverse battery protection. Instead of using the normal mosfet method, I was thinking a little different. Here is the post I made on Mamu's thread about polarity protection. Let me know what you'll think of it. Don't shoot me, not an electronics design engineer, just a simple instrument tech.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rse-polarity-protection-dna.html#post14118566

Most likely will work, but depends on timing.
If the total time from insertion to clamping to fuse opening is less than the time to effect something on the DNA then yes.
In real life there is only one way to find out.

 

[bapgood]

I still don't understand how you are supposed to solder to the FD spring loaded center pin with hole in it and assemble it.

Maybe remove the delrin and somehow clamp the rest of it so the oring is as far away from that end as possible.....IDK the screw is pretty easy, but it would be nice to a have floating squonker center pin.

 

[bapgood]

Grrr....my parts shipment is waiting on one button and one ring......COME ON!!!!

Anyway, I got a couple of questions. The fuses we are using here are similar to the ones in the Tibs mod thread. Thought they were exact, but seems like I remember the number 700 printed on the fuses where these show I9. But regardless, this is the question. The normal load current is 7amp and the trip current is 14 amps. Two in parallel lowers the v drop, but raises trip point to roughly double. So now we have a normal current of 14amps and a trip current of approximately 28 amps. Am I looking at something wrong here as that seems awfully high to me. On my single battery mods, I am just running one 7 amp fuse, which is fine for my power levels. Anyway, was just putting the question out there since the parts list indicates two 7A fuses.

Also been thinking about implementing reverse battery protection. Instead of using the normal mosfet method, I was thinking a little different. Here is the post I made on Mamu's thread about polarity protection. Let me know what you'll think of it. Don't shoot me, not an electronics design engineer, just a simple instrument tech.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rse-polarity-protection-dna.html#post14118566

Most likely will work, but depends on timing.
If the total time from insertion to clamping to fuse opening is less than the time to effect something on the DNA then yes.
In real life there is only one way to find out.

Let me save someone the pain of what I already know........If you use 2 of the 7a hold/14a trip fuses in parallel they DO NOT work for reverse polarity protection!!!!

However they work great for dual battery mods with one fuse on each battery.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

I still don't understand how you are supposed to solder to the FD spring loaded center pin with hole in it and assemble it.

Maybe remove the delrin and somehow clamp the rest of it so the oring is as far away from that end as possible.....IDK the screw is pretty easy, but it would be nice to a have floating squonker center pin.

If it is long enough and there is enough room, a shaft collar works nicely.

This is not a FD, but here is what I did with one mod.
In fact the wire could just be soldered to the shaft collar.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

I can't see any point in roughing it - it soaks in like crazy anyway.
Especially if it's a colored plastic - too much risk of burning through the dye layer.
See mikepetro's post about the red pieces a few pages back.

Ok good. Always thought you had to rough them so they would stick. PITA, going to skip it on the next one.

As for the standard dye colors, won't be going with those.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Let me save someone the pain of what I already know........If you use 2 of the 7a hold/14a trip fuses in parallel they DO NOT work for reverse polarity protection!!!!

However they work great for dual battery mods with one fuse on each battery.

Actually Bap, totally agree with that. But if you click on the link in my post, I put a design suggestion in on the Manu forum about a possible single battery reverse protection possibility that does use a fuse, but also a diode in parallel with the battery. So we know that mamu's dual battery protection works, so the fuse clamps fast enough to stop current from damaging the DNA30, so theoretically, adding the diode to initiate the clamping should work on the circuit I posted.

Hopefully I can grab a diode by this weekend and do an actual test.........maybe I can talk Mamu into trying it....lol.

 

[bapgood]

Diodes add to much resistance

 

[mikepetro]

..................................Anyway, I got a couple of questions. The fuses we are using here are similar to the ones in the Tibs mod thread. Thought they were exact, but seems like I remember the number 700 printed on the fuses where these show I9. But regardless, this is the question. The normal load current is 7amp and the trip current is 14 amps. Two in parallel lowers the v drop, but raises trip point to roughly double. So now we have a normal current of 14amps and a trip current of approximately 28 amps. Am I looking at something wrong here as that seems awfully high to me. On my single battery mods, I am just running one 7 amp fuse, which is fine for my power levels. Anyway, was just putting the question out there since the parts list indicates two 7A fuses.............

Will have to use two 7amp fuses in parallel instead of the 14 amp, but that is marginally better electronically anyway.

I am not scared to put two 14amp trip fuses in parallel in a mod. All the fuse(s) is doing is protecting the battery against a dead short somewhere. They arent protecting the DNA against reverse polarity, and the DNA will protect itself against over voltge/current. So if I drop a 35 amp LG HE2 battery in the mod, and it trips at 28amps, I wouldnt be concerned at all.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Diodes add to much resistance

It isn't in series? So how is it adding resistance? In the normal circuit, it is a blocking device. Resistance only comes into play if the device is passing current. It won't be in the normal battery configuration. In reverse protect mode, who cares, you only want it to clamp the fuse. Now putting a diode in series, it would indeed created a large enough v drop to be a bad thing.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

I am not scared to put two 14amp trip fuses in parallel in a mod. All the fuse(s) is doing is protecting the battery against a dead short somewhere. They arent protecting the DNA against reverse polarity, and the DNA will protect itself against over voltge/current. So if I drop a 35 amp LG HE2 battery in the mod, and it trips at 28amps, I wouldnt be concerned at all.

Ok, cool. That answers that question. I was worried that before the fuse tripped at 28 amps, you would have already fried the DNA 30. I know in a high current situation like a dead short, the fuse will clamp fast enough. But didn't know the DNA30 would protect itself at say 26amps before the fuse tripped.

Thanks Mike.

 

[mikepetro]

From Evolv's site:

The DNA system lets anyone build Evolv's revolutionary power regulated technology into their own products. The DNA 30D is a power regulated digital switch-mode DC-DC converter for personal vaporizers. It offers controlled power from 7 to 30 watts, runs from a single lithium cell and includes protective features such as overcurrent, over and undervoltage protection and a thermal shutdown. It features a small OLED display, analog or digital user controls, power adjust lock, onboard buttons and synchronous rectification for maximum battery life and minimal heat generation.

 

[jakematic]

So how is it adding resistance? In the normal circuit, it is a blocking device.

That's how.
In one direction a diode provides 'low' resistance, and 'high' in the other.

R=Vt/Id


I'm skipping fuses and RPP and living on the wild side until the new DNA boards come out.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

That's how.
In one direction a diode provides 'low' resistance, and 'high' in the other.

R=Vt/Id


I'm skipping fuses and RPP and living on the wild side until the new DNA boards come out.

Ok, basic electronic theory, I got. But in order for it to be a problem in the circuit and for the voltage drop to be an issue, there has to be current flowing through it. Basically a diode in reverse action is an extremely high value resistor that turns into a low value in the direction of current flow. So in parallel, the amount of current flowing through it in the circuit with the battery in the normal position is negligible. Low current flow, low voltage drop, low power loss and that is the bottom line we are looking at.

Anyway, as I stated, I am not an electronic design engineer. So hopefully soon I can grab a diode and give a try.

 

[Rossum]

Diodes have a forward voltage drop. Silicon diodes around 0.7V. Gallium arsenide around 0.3V. This will totally screw up the DNA's battery monitoring. When you insert a freshly charged battery at 4.2V, the DNA will only see 3.9V. Oh, and at 10A, your diode will be dissipating 3W. If you really want to add reverse battery protection, a diode isn't the way to do it; a P-FET is, one with really low on-resistance (like under 5 milli-ohms).

 

[Alexander Mundy]

I think everyone is missing the point that the diode would be reverse biased across the DNA input not in series. So no V drop no power loss when the battery is in correctly.