Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

[Steamer861]

So bottom line it still all fits together? and the button still works fine?

 

[David1975]

Hoping someone can point me in the right direction, I saw somewhere there were talks about a co-op for many of the parts needed to build this..... but I can't find where I saw that again. If it's still going on and I can get in on it, and someone provide a link to it for me? Thank you

 

[Cool_Breeze]

The Co-op position are full at this time, but it has not gone live yet. There's a good likelihood that some positions may come open by a few dropping out. I don't know if there is a waiting list.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...bottom-feeder-parts-interest-only-thread.html

 

[jakematic]

So bottom line it still all fits together? and the button still works fine?

On the semi-gloss yes it looks that way.

Neither of them has fully cured yet so I can't complete either build as the finish still has some 'give' to it.
72 hours per the Minwax can directions would put me at late Saturday evening.

My house stays at 23 degrees with 45% humidity almost constantly so it should be a decent curing environs.
Will post my findings when I do - hopefully this weekend.

 

[Rossum]

So bottom line it still all fits together? and the button still works fine?

My experience is that the fire buttons tend to be on the tight side, but it's easy enough to open up the hole they fit through in the top-cap using a round (or part-round) file.

 

[jakematic]

The Co-op position are full at this time, but it has not gone live yet. There's a good likelihood that some positions may come open by a few dropping out.

If interest is high and it's OK with Tibs and B2L, I'll relinquish my spot for 5 kits.
Had no idea it would be this popular.

 

[Steamer861]

Thanks for the quick replays I kinda thought the button mite get a little tight
I am going to go with the min wax semi-gloss

On the semi-gloss yes it looks that way.

Neither of them has fully cured yet so I can't complete either build as the finish still has some 'give' to it.
72 hours per the Minwax can directions would put me at late Saturday evening.

My house stays at 23 degrees with 45% humidity almost constantly so it should be a decent curing environs.
Will post my findings when I do - hopefully this weekend.

My experience is that the fire buttons tend to be on the tight side, but it's easy enough to open up the hole they fit through in the top-cap using a round (or part-round) file.

 

[mikepetro]

It does a little bit - the thicker it is applied, and the thicker the paint/poly is, the tighter all of the fitment will be.
The picture I posted yesterday of the semi-gloss with polished bronze was slightly tighter than the raw print fit.

The gloss one will have to be sanded and/or filed for the ring and button to fit.
In theory you could mask these areas, but I think that would be rather difficult to do accurately and maintain a clean finish.

OMG, even the thought of masking that tiny ring lip area makes me cringe...........

If I were in a crazy state of mind (more than usual that is) I might try some model car pinstriping tape. But get it perfectly straight, not gonna happen with my aged eyes.

I would (will) paint and/or seal, trying not build up too much on that edge, and then sand to fit.

 

[jakematic]

OMG, even the thought of masking that tiny ring lip area makes me cringe...........

Having just read your comments on the other thread I almost fell off my chair !

 

[gdeal]

On the Shapeways part page for the Ring are dimensions. If you measure your parts and they are out of spec and not within the stated variance, take a picture of the part with a caliper and send it in an email to Shapeways that they missed. Typically they just send a reprint and you dont need to send your part back. It only happened to me once, they responded right way and were really good about getting a replacement reprinted for free.

If you have a question on a different spec not listed, just post up here or PM with a question and I will dig through the files to find the exact dimension given to them. Those ring are serious bling, you should get what your paid them for.

The premium silver and raw bronze appear to be the best fits, with silver almost perfect.
All of the others appear to be too short in the longer axis.

The polished bronze was too narrow in the shorter axis on another body.
Between the variances of the bodies and the metals, I think most will require a little fine tuning.

My tests were done on raw bodies without internals... that will likely also affect the fitment.
Any build up in thickness from sealers or paints may need to be taken into account.

From the ShapeWays materials pages:

Plastics
strong & flexible: ± 0.15 mm, then ± 0.15 % of longest axis
metallic (alumide): ± 0.15 mm, then ± 0.15 % of longest axis

Some detail is lost during polishing
The polishing media can take off up to 0.1mm of the surface. For small details, this can rub away the sharp corners of your details and make them less crisp


Metals
silver: ± 0.125 mm
platinum: ± 0.125 mm
gold: ± 0.125 mm
bronze: ± 0.125 mm
brass: ± 0.125 mm
steel: ± 1% of any dimension (and one layer thickness of 0.1mm) These limitations are an outcome of the combined printing and infusion process. A 25mm dimension is accurate to ± 0.35mm, while a 250mm dimension is accurate to ± 2.6mm.

Remember! Polishing is a subtractive process in which material is removed to create a shiny surface.

 

[Steamer861]

After the coating, I wounded if the nice screw, with the good head, will be a little tight? Just kidding LOL

 

[jakematic]

Dry fit of stainless ring and button, on BSF in semi-gloss.

This one will be a gift for a good friend.

 

[Nautilusfan]

Really like the look!! The texture in the stainless really compliments the slight texture of the coating you applied. Great job!!

 

[rogue007]

Yes it does!.... That actually looks great. Might have to order a set of SS accents..... I can polish them for a cleaner look and then brush them as well..... Might have to order a couple sets

 

[jakematic]

Just watched a pbusardo video and it dawned on me y'all might want to know this.
Apologies if it has been previously posted.

Cyclone atty, stainless hourglass mouthpiece, VTC5, 6ml of e-liquid, alumide with polished black ring and detail black low profile fire button:

Personally I love those $5 driptips/mouthpieces and own 20 of them.
Superb kitchen scale too... weigh your ingredient people, 'cups' are not accurate dry measures


For those who use other units, that is 5.0 ounces.

 

[Cool_Breeze]

Superb kitchen scale too... weigh your ingredient people, 'cups' are not accurate dry measures


For those who use other units, that is 5.0 ounces.

142 grams is wonderful. I'm a shirt-pocket fellow at times. That beats both my 2 x 18350 plastic VV mod with less juice and Aqua atty by 20 grams and my 18650 similar mod by about 10 grams. Thanks!

I look forward to the day the weight of a mod approaches that of a pack of cigarettes. We can dream, can't we..?

 

[rogue007]

Is there any other companies that can 3D print parts like Shapeways?..... I know there probably is but looking at 3D printers on YouTube and seeing what others print in their materials, they look better quality.

I saw a material called PLA Plastic that looks like regular ol' molded injection parts.

Looks like ShapeWays uses a powder like base, as some other makers use plastic feed devices.

Do you think a wire-feed printer would be better for these boxes?

 

[Moohaaa07]

I hope this has not already been answered but I went through the whole post and couldn't find the answer. I established my account just to build this my dream mod. Is it possible to use the fatdaddy 510 connector with the bottom feed attachment and not the classic that I would have to drill. This is all that is stopping me from building this mod. Thank you for designing this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Moohaaa07]

Has anyone built this mod purchasing all the items on their own. How much was the total cost without sharing some of the costs with other members.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jakematic]

142 grams is wonderful. I'm a shirt-pocket fellow at times.

Fits perfectly in a shirt pocket.
Typically it goes in my shirt or inside suit pocket, drop the drip tip in a snack size zip top bag in my trouser pocket, and use as desired.
The drip tip can peek out above the pocket so it'd very discrete this way.

Is there any other companies that can 3D print parts like Shapeways?..... I know there probably is but looking at 3D printers on YouTube and seeing what others print in their materials, they look better quality.

I saw a material called PLA Plastic that looks like regular ol' molded injection parts.

Looks like ShapeWays uses a powder like base, as some other makers use plastic feed devices.

Do you think a wire-feed printer would be better for these boxes?

Spool fed devices do make a wholy different product.
I had the opportunity to work with one recently, and didn't find the accuracy as good or as high a quality feeling product but YMMW.
The important thing here is it's gdeal's work and up to him whom/if he releases the CAD files to for production.

Is it possible to use the fatdaddy 510 connector with the bottom feed attachment and not the classic that I would have to drill. This is all that is stopping me from building this mod.

Welcome! It's a dream mod for many of us.
Several folks have ordered the FDV BF kit, but we don't have any field reports on the viability yet.
This mod was not designed to use the 510 connector that kit goes in, so I suspect it would need to be drilled regardless.

It's not difficult to put together, and the Beta and co-op teams are working on a solution.
Since a good BF 510 connector hasn't been commercially available, this is a 'modders mod' right now and some DIY is required.

I'm hopeful this mod will springboard the BF community and in later versions it may be a pick/pull/assemble.
Until then, a little elbow grease and ingenuity goes a long way.

Has anyone built this mod purchasing all the items on their own. How much was the total cost without sharing some of the costs with other members.

Yes.
All the parts are easy to find per the first post in the co-op thread - the links are all in the spreadsheet.

The only issue at the moment, which is being worked on feverishly, is the feed screw.
You can easily source a viable screw from McMaster and either DIY the head tweak or send them to a machine shop like I did - see a few pages back where I posted pictures.

I would say the components are roughly as follows doing it the hard way:
- $75 - 100 for parts - many of which have a high MOQ or are crazy expensive at hobby shops
- $55 for DNA 30D
- $90 - 500 for the ShapeWays parts depending on options
- $20 - 100 in miscellany such as solder, a GOOD iron, flux, de-solder braid, tools like a precision dikes/side cutter

The thing that makes it very very expensive to do this way is buying 10 o-rings for $0.90 and paying $8.00 for shipping.
Beta team has not only spent a lot of time getting this to v3.1, but an astronomical investment in parts

e.g. my kit dedicated to this project: