A post I made in another group:
And as that New Yorker said (the one hogging all the Katz pastrami), you can bet I will be running co-ops for these as soon as I can get my hands on any quantity.
Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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A post I made in another group:
And as that New Yorker said (the one hogging all the Katz pastrami), you can bet I will be running co-ops for these as soon as I can get my hands on any quantity.
Ok... I took a closer look at my most recently built Mod. It has the slight tolerance drift around the tact switch holes. On closer inspection, what is happening is that Shapeways isnt printing the fillet around the hole precisely. In fact, it looks a little raised. From a guestimate, comparing the CAD design to the printed part, it looks about .3mm or so off in height and about .2mm off on the fillet. And while that is not a lot of distance, added together, its very relevant to amount of distance needed to actuate the tact switch (~.5 to .7mm depending on the specific tact button you have).
So while my printed part look very similar to others, I could still press and actuate the tacts even though it is sitting a bit lower than it should be. In any case, I did a mod just to see what would happen. I was able to pick up about .15 millimeters by just sanding the base of the internal by ~ about the same amount. The thinnest surface is spec at 1mm, I could have brought the thickness down another .2 millimeter for even more gain in height, but I was running short on time.
Here are the measurement pics and then a comparison of before vs after.
So while my printed part look very similar to others, I could still press and actuate the tacts even though it is sitting a bit lower than it should be. In any case, I did a mod just to see what would happen. I was able to pick up about .15 millimeters by just sanding the base of the internal by ~ about the same amount. The thinnest surface is spec at 1mm, I could have brought the thickness down another .2 millimeter for even more gain in height, but I was running short on time.
Here are the measurement pics and then a comparison of before vs after.
lol - i might have to break down and get into one of mike's co-ops AND take him up on a certain standing offer! 
Thanks for the info and you better believe I'll be hitting f5 like a mad man when they are releasing.
I really wanted this GDNA to be something really special since I'm putting a lot of time and money into these builds, and this chip is just the ticket!
Now to hurry up and wait
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lol - i might have to break down and get into one of mike's co-ops AND take him up on a certain standing offer!
The offer still stands...........
The only thing this New Yorker is hogging these days is protein bars.
One additional mod to pick up height for the tact switches. (if your device needs it.....)
Looking a bit more closely at the tact switch itself, there are two shoulders that rise at the periphery of the rounded base. In the first pic you can see the side profile, its only about .2mm. But if you look at the second picture, you can see what the effect is when you place the switch into the holes of the internal base. We lose space.
So while we cant remove the offending part from the tact switch we can mod the the hole so that it can fully seat against the surface. I just carefully removed material until the part fit.
Looks like we picked up some height!
But what about the end result? pretty good...
Looking a bit more closely at the tact switch itself, there are two shoulders that rise at the periphery of the rounded base. In the first pic you can see the side profile, its only about .2mm. But if you look at the second picture, you can see what the effect is when you place the switch into the holes of the internal base. We lose space.
So while we cant remove the offending part from the tact switch we can mod the the hole so that it can fully seat against the surface. I just carefully removed material until the part fit.
Looks like we picked up some height!
But what about the end result? pretty good...
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am i supposed to fix those 300 i got here?
Yep.........................
am i supposed to fix those 300 i got here?
That appendage is only 1/4 of the size of those pesky screws. I think you can handle it.
Wow Shapeways is really testing my Patients
Sep 3, 2014Order Placed Processing Complete In Production3 Sep 19, 2014 Estimated Ship Date
BTW thanks for the sneak peek at the new board ETA???
Sep 3, 2014Order Placed Processing Complete In Production3 Sep 19, 2014 Estimated Ship Date
BTW thanks for the sneak peek at the new board
ETA???...Shapeways has been updated with new versions of the body. Thanks to all the guys who provided feedback. The tweaks are slight but should make a difference for improved fitment and access of the tact switches. I made two minor adjustments, the first was to slightly thin out the base walls around the tact switches and the second was to enlarge the fillet around the holes. Here is a comparison of the new version (top) to the older version.
View attachment 377877
View attachment 377877
Acrylic seems to build thinner. Poly strikes me as tougher. I've got a mod with each. They are quite different. I'm not sure which one I prefer. I'm not sure either is really optimal either. I have high hopes for low-gloss Cerakote, which I'm having someone else do for me.
Yes Gdeal, I have sent the pics with caliper measurements. They are only current reprinting the ring and top cap...... As far as the internals that were broken and the main body that was butchered, I have heard nothing as of yet.
I have been REAL pleased with that stuff, but then I do prefer a flat finish which Cerakote will give you if you go easy on the activator.
I am getting this http://www.johnart.gr/Catalogue/images/201010/918570.jpg for body and this http://www.johnart.gr/Catalogue/images/201402/918571.jpg for ring and button. What do you think?
Apologies for the Many Wordz Syndrome:
I just finished up two of these that were both afflicted with the "Where's My Buttonz?" issue.
First things first, so everyone knows the facts, this is a comparison of the exact same shell CAD printed about 2 or so months ago (right when we started beta testing) and about 2 weeks ago. Purple is early, black is recent.
You can see that there are indentations in the bottom of the early purple print where the tact switches emerge. In the black one, SW has essentially printed without these, it has flattened out the bottom. In addition, as per gdeal's measurements, the bottom has been printed thicker on the later prints. All these deltas are within stated SW tolerances, but when combined, they lead to this problem.
For this black one, you are seeing post-modding so the buttons are accessible. They were even more recessed prior to this, and could not be accessed by finger or fingernail. What you see can be improved upon further.
I did a combination of
1. sanding off a layer of plastic from the interior bottom of the shell, enough so the floor inside the shell is white. I will do a bit more, but this is a pain to do, and must be done slowly and carefully. I happened to have a flat-head drill bit in my dremel kit that was long enough (barely) to reach the bottom of the inside of the shell, which has a tip that looks like a flat head screwdriver. I used this to slowly grind away the layer. This is the best place to remove material, because it already has too much thickness, so removing 0.5mm of this actually brings it in line with the CAD specs, and will have no effect on the structural integrity of the shell.
2. sanded off a very thin layer from the bottom of the internals. I unglued the tact switches and tucked them under the bottom shelf so they wouldn't get sanded. I then took a piece of sandpaper, laid it down on a flat surface, and rubbed the internals' bottom surface back and forth on the sandpaper. I took off perhaps 0.2mm this way. I would not remove any more, it may become too thin and bend to the point of breaking when removing and inserting in the shell.
3. I will also be creating the small grooves around the tact switch holes, on the side where the switches are inserted (the interior surface, facing up), as per gdeal's earlier post. I did this in my red mod (not pictured) and it made a noticeable difference. This takes a bit of time, I used a flat-headed file, but is easy to do.
One more point: the material for the recent red and older purple should be the same, just a different dye color. They are not. The purple feels smoother and the dye job is good to excellent. The red has a rough, uneven texture, and the dye job is terrible, to the point where I will have to get it painted. The black dye job is acceptable, but the surface is rough like the red.
Drunk_J has also confirmed similar differences in his SW prints, and he has multiple mod prints over the last few months, including bapgood, jonniemac and gdeal parts. He is doing heavy sanding on his recent prints to get rid of serious flaws - lines, patterns, etc.
I just finished up two of these that were both afflicted with the "Where's My Buttonz?" issue.
First things first, so everyone knows the facts, this is a comparison of the exact same shell CAD printed about 2 or so months ago (right when we started beta testing) and about 2 weeks ago. Purple is early, black is recent.
You can see that there are indentations in the bottom of the early purple print where the tact switches emerge. In the black one, SW has essentially printed without these, it has flattened out the bottom. In addition, as per gdeal's measurements, the bottom has been printed thicker on the later prints. All these deltas are within stated SW tolerances, but when combined, they lead to this problem.
For this black one, you are seeing post-modding so the buttons are accessible. They were even more recessed prior to this, and could not be accessed by finger or fingernail. What you see can be improved upon further.
I did a combination of
1. sanding off a layer of plastic from the interior bottom of the shell, enough so the floor inside the shell is white. I will do a bit more, but this is a pain to do, and must be done slowly and carefully. I happened to have a flat-head drill bit in my dremel kit that was long enough (barely) to reach the bottom of the inside of the shell, which has a tip that looks like a flat head screwdriver. I used this to slowly grind away the layer. This is the best place to remove material, because it already has too much thickness, so removing 0.5mm of this actually brings it in line with the CAD specs, and will have no effect on the structural integrity of the shell.
2. sanded off a very thin layer from the bottom of the internals. I unglued the tact switches and tucked them under the bottom shelf so they wouldn't get sanded. I then took a piece of sandpaper, laid it down on a flat surface, and rubbed the internals' bottom surface back and forth on the sandpaper. I took off perhaps 0.2mm this way. I would not remove any more, it may become too thin and bend to the point of breaking when removing and inserting in the shell.
3. I will also be creating the small grooves around the tact switch holes, on the side where the switches are inserted (the interior surface, facing up), as per gdeal's earlier post. I did this in my red mod (not pictured) and it made a noticeable difference. This takes a bit of time, I used a flat-headed file, but is easy to do.
One more point: the material for the recent red and older purple should be the same, just a different dye color. They are not. The purple feels smoother and the dye job is good to excellent. The red has a rough, uneven texture, and the dye job is terrible, to the point where I will have to get it painted. The black dye job is acceptable, but the surface is rough like the red.
Drunk_J has also confirmed similar differences in his SW prints, and he has multiple mod prints over the last few months, including bapgood, jonniemac and gdeal parts. He is doing heavy sanding on his recent prints to get rid of serious flaws - lines, patterns, etc.
That's so depressing. I wasn't planning on doing any labor work other than soldering. I know it's a modders mod but then again it sucks to see that your mod is not plug and play.
My body has the same issue as confirmed by gdeal. I might assemble it and get some kind of stick to change wattage
My body has the same issue as confirmed by gdeal. I might assemble it and get some kind of stick to change wattage
Good suggestions for modding.
Can you show a picture of the newer Red material? I just received a polished blue model and the material is noticeably smoother and has a softer feel to it. Sounds like the exact opposite of what you have seen. Here is a closeup around the squonk hole.
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