Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

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OthatGuy

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I'm having a inconsistent fire problem with the button using the alps switch setup, seems that it's working fine but sometimes, pretty often.
I'm thinking about using the tack switch button in place but I have the alps printed plastic.
Is there a big difference in the plastic piece or button? What would I need to modify to use the other switch?
 

gdeal

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moresalt

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Thought I would let y'all know about an option Gdeal just set up for me.
https://www.shapeways.com/model/2833286/dna-v3-1-internal-assembly-top-cap-internals-o.html

Get this part along with a fire button/top cap/& ring of your choice... add a few extra pieces of hardware and you will have a second functioning top for your dna V3.1!

Stick an extra atty on it and attach an extra bottle and you can switch between your 2 favorite juices fast and easy. Get the most use possible out of that shinny new dna 40 you just wired up! :)
This is too funny. i was afraid that I messed up the internal part of my top cap and was just thinking It would be nice if we could order this piece separately. What a great idea! I'm going to order 4 of these
 

mackman

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hey guys, just wanted to mention here because I have seen anyone else mention anything about dying parts yourselves... white nylon can be dyed at home easily with clothing dye. I used to do it all the time back in my RC days, the longer you soak then the darker and more penetration you get. I mention this because in many cases it may be better to fit and sand your parts first and then dye them yourselves

A little info on technique: How to Dye Your Nylon 3D Prints
 

gdeal

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gdeal

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Mr.Reliant

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That was my reaction too Mr Reliant's request. I order some as well. Much easier to "Hot Swap" atties that are already set up on a Top Cap than to take em off and reset the screw and seal for BF'ing.

Just did a parts inventory for this idea and realized I am still short a fire switch. (why or why didn't I order an extra when I had the chance)
If anyone has a spare switch please PM me. Either flavor works thanks to the post above on modding the fire button. Prefer tact though.
 

gdeal

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BobC

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I'm having a inconsistent fire problem with the button using the alps switch setup, seems that it's working fine but sometimes, pretty often.
I'm thinking about using the tack switch button in place but I have the alps printed plastic.
Is there a big difference in the plastic piece or button? What would I need to modify to use the other switch?
This could be caused by a misaligned switch spacer, it needs to sit level, within the top internal spacer guides, so you have to make sure your wires and 510 nut do not impede this
 

Alexander Mundy

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The primary difference with the tact switch spacers are the three small guide rails. Each has different spacing to help align the fire button with the tact switch. The fire buttons are also designed specifically to the tact switch. So to get the Alp Button/spacer to work with a ball tact (and you dont want to get a new fire button) you can mod the alps fire button by drilling out the center to the the right height and width to fit the Ball Tact. You also may need to shorted the Alp spacer in the front so that the contact legs can stick out past the spacer, so that when you solder the wires they dont interfere with the throw of the ball tact. I think Rossum did this a while back and may have posted in the the thread somewhere.

I did this on my first beta since neither Alps switch I had would work consistently. The Alps button gets pretty thin to allow clearance for the sides of the ball tact so just be careful you keep the enlarging on centerline. Made a small 1/2 round divot in the button for the ball to sit against. Took the guides out for the Alps switch and used hot glue (gasp) under the ball tact switch which allowed me time to quickly put the top together temporary with the button in place to self center the ball tact switch. I also clipped the ball tact leads as short as I could and used very small Kynar wire wrap wire for the connections.


20140629_204408_zpspruswm5l.jpg
 

Mr.Reliant

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You understand that with these additional top caps you may have created a device capable of being a fashion accessory. When the iphone was developed they had thought that anyone would only want one, but quickly found out that many people bought 3 or 4 just because of the color differences.

Here's another million dollar idea then... How about a 3D printed extra top cap desktop caddy (TCDC). Could basically be a ring of tubes (say 6) that would hold juice bottles and have a small support sticking out for attached caps to rest on. Heck the supports could even hold a magnet to keep everything nice and secure.
 

Mr.Reliant

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I have a couple extra fire buttons. Unpolished white for Alps low version. You can also just order from shapeways and then email customer service to combine your orders to save on shipping.

Moresalts got me covered on the switch. THANKS!
Dual Cap vaping is only a ShapeWays order fulfillment away now! WOO HOO!
 

BigLungs

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I got my printed parts on order today along with ordering my DNA 40 board!
Next week I will order all the other parts needed, and hopefully should get everything by the time the printed parts arrive(quoted date of Nov 20th).

I am so stoked and can't wait to have everything in my hands to begin the building!
I ordered my parts in polished white and will probably dye them black myself then just clear coat, or something along those lines.

Edit: How well would the printed parts hold up if I just dyed them and didn't clear coat/seal them?

Has anyone been successful in fitting a charge board in one of these, and if so any pictures?
I know it's quick and easy to swap batteries, but I don't always have the pocket space for spare batteries, and in this instance onboard charging would be beneficial.
 
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Kentastic

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Just about ready to give it a go, but need help picking a soldering iron/station. If money not an issue i'd just get the Hakko and call it a night, but since I will probably use this about 2 times a year for small repair jobs after this project I was wondering if it would just be better to go with one of these at 1/2 the price?

Weller.jpg $41.19 shipped
Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station - Soldering Iron - Amazon.com

YIHUA.jpg $52.98 shipped
YIHUA 937D+ Digital Led display SMD Iron Welding Rework Soldering Station ESD with 5 Tips USA - - Amazon.com

Hakko.jpg $91.33 shipped
Hakko Digital FX888D & CHP170 bundle, includes FREE CHP170 cutter - - Amazon.com

Or any other suggestions?

Ken

Oh and I got my black detail rings and buttons from Shapeways. They already look good, but I'm going to start sanding on them with some fine sandpaper and see if I can't get them looking all shiny like Gdeal's photo example.

15110455993_2f9a641a9b_o.jpg
 
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