Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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Hey, while your fixing the wire size chart... Maybe I did this wrong but the fire - (tact -) is listed as needing to be 20mm and that was a little short I think it would work better if both the fire + and fire - were at least 25mm.
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Just in case somebody has this Krylon matte coat getting ready for use ... you might want to consider something else! This stuff is wearing off in under 2 weeks of use! I've had really good luck with the rust-oleum clear.
Just in case somebody has this Krylon matte coat getting ready for use ... you might want to consider something else! This stuff is wearing off in under 2 weeks of use! I've had really good luck with the rust-oleum clear.
That's good to know. I used Rustoleum Matte finish because I couldn't find Krylon.
I use polyurethane because that stuff was cracking and flaking. Liquid poly is under $10 for a quart which would do a 100 mods or more. Plus it is super easy to apply with those cheap foam applicators. Though it is best to sand with very fine sand paper in between coats. I use 1000 grit to ensure I don't get any paint by accident in the first coat or two. After that, it is just ensuring a good adhesion and getting out any tiny bubbles. Even better, don't have to go outside on the cold and rainy days to use.
https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...54&ei=bk11VOTtIcGigwTr-4CIBg&ved=0COQBEKYrMAg
D'oh! I just saw the email asking the question and didn't see the quote asking Ty. Thought you were asking me....d'oh again.
This was back before using the super glue and acetone. I used Zinsser sealant after reading the swirl painting needed a good base coat to adhere to. Afterwards, I wanted a deep finish, so I applied 6 to 8 coats in the time frame they suggested. Tried the triple or double coat stuff too. Have three mods that either cracked from a short (<3ft) fall onto a rug over a tile floor or either backing out a screw caught the edge and flaked off a big chip. Opps, almost forgot about the Tibs mod I put in my work bag that is chipped all to hell and back (so that maybe four, can't remember now). So not sure if it just didn't play well with the testors paint or what. But for the price, ease of application, less mess and durability, polyurethane is what I am using unless something changes.
Argh! Just took a vape from my first BF, the dna version, and forgot about the weird texture impression. This was 3 or 4 days after finishing with that double or triple thick version of spray clear enamel stuff, put the mod in a mod case that had the netting stuff in it. Well after that, my mod has the netting impression in the clear coat. Been waiting to finish my silver dna BF so I can take the first one out of service and strip it down to totally repaint.
This was back before using the super glue and acetone. I used Zinsser sealant after reading the swirl painting needed a good base coat to adhere to. Afterwards, I wanted a deep finish, so I applied 6 to 8 coats in the time frame they suggested. Tried the triple or double coat stuff too. Have three mods that either cracked from a short (<3ft) fall onto a rug over a tile floor or either backing out a screw caught the edge and flaked off a big chip. Opps, almost forgot about the Tibs mod I put in my work bag that is chipped all to hell and back (so that maybe four, can't remember now). So not sure if it just didn't play well with the testors paint or what. But for the price, ease of application, less mess and durability, polyurethane is what I am using unless something changes.
Argh! Just took a vape from my first BF, the dna version, and forgot about the weird texture impression. This was 3 or 4 days after finishing with that double or triple thick version of spray clear enamel stuff, put the mod in a mod case that had the netting stuff in it. Well after that, my mod has the netting impression in the clear coat. Been waiting to finish my silver dna BF so I can take the first one out of service and strip it down to totally repaint.
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The paint was 24K metallic (dmcolor) and several days of dry time before about 4 coats of that matte. Today I wiped it with rubbing alcohol trying to clean it up and it looks really bad now! Maybe the two paints just didn't get along?
So, into a black shell that has seen several weeks of use without signs of wear.
So, into a black shell that has seen several weeks of use without signs of wear.
But "sometimes" it cleans things pretty well and my other printed shells don't seem to mind. My lipo shell looks new still and it's been camping, road trips, etc...
This is the rattle can I used on them.
This is the rattle can I used on them.
I just tested it for you on my DNA BF that I want to repaint, which has clear enamel on it. Scratch the mild part on enamel solvent. It is a fairly strong solvent. Now I was using the higher percentage version (red label) of rubbing alcohol, as it is what's under the sink. Dampened a paper towel and within a few seconds of moderate pressure, was already pulling up color paint (and this thing had many layers of clear coat). So I would suggest not using alcohol for cleaning. Also, am I remembering correct, but isn't alcohol very bad for the type of plastic in 3d printers? Seems like that was on the list Mike P had out at one time.
So is been some time now, what's the best iron fire a bigger bottle? And how many mls is it? ..thanks.
I find that after half the bottle is empty I have a hard time, will not really hard but, not as easy, with the last half. And I burn thru 20 plus mls/day so if love the extra capacity, no other feeders have ten ml bottles.
Thanks
I find that after half the bottle is empty I have a hard time, will not really hard but, not as easy, with the last half. And I burn thru 20 plus mls/day so if love the extra capacity, no other feeders have ten ml bottles.
Thanks
Since others have had good luck with the Krylon 1311, I'm guessing my wear issues had something to do with the layer of gold paint. The Isopropyl alcohol factor didn't happen until after it was already looking well worn. I can attest that mild household formula will go through the 1311 and the gold paint with a little paper towel rubbing.
My 2 black gdeal prints without paint underneath and the rust'oleum enamel are wearing fine. The bap shell sees alcohol, at least a few times on the top, because that's what I use to clean the 510 spring out when a tank happens to leak there.
My 2 black gdeal prints without paint underneath and the rust'oleum enamel are wearing fine. The bap shell sees alcohol, at least a few times on the top, because that's what I use to clean the 510 spring out when a tank happens to leak there.
I got a can of Krylon dark bronze hammer with the can of matte. So I think I'll try that combination on a peko shell. For the repaint of the gold I'll try some poly topcoat using a little air-brush.
The good news is I've had some practice with repainting printed shells (pretty easy) ... the bad news is my acetone and cleanup supplies are low. Time for a run to the hardware store
The good news is I've had some practice with repainting printed shells (pretty easy) ... the bad news is my acetone and cleanup supplies are low. Time for a run to the hardware store
Just in case somebody has this Krylon matte coat getting ready for use ... you might want to consider something else! This stuff is wearing off in under 2 weeks of use! I've had really good luck with the rust-oleum clear.
Perhaps it doesn't work well when used in conjunction with other paints? I've used it on a GDNA30 without any other paint, and it looks fine after a few months.
Same here ( I never paint) my seal has been rocking for over three months of daily use
I do find that a light vacuum forms as the juice in the bottle gets disappeared and nothing is there to replace it*. When the bottle gets about 1/2 empty (I know . . . .
. . . I'm like that . . . .. I could'a said "half full"), I cover my air intakes and blow (pretty hard) into the atty to pressurize the bottle. One can also just crack the seal on the bottle cap. I think the blowing is a bit more effective, as it is supplying pressure greater than just ambient air pressure. I used to have to top-off when the bottle got just below the halfway point. Now, with just one halftimeblow..., I can go the distance. *this seems to have the effect where squeezing the bottle provides the same amount of pressure as not squeezing it.
So in case of doubt just blow. Is that what you're sayingI do find that a light vacuum forms as the juice in the bottle gets disappeared and nothing is there to replace it*. When the bottle gets about 1/2 empty (I know . . . .
*this seems to have the effect where squeezing the bottle provides the same amount of pressure as not squeezing it.
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