Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

[Roscoe01]

i guess i am not understanding what you are saying.
isn't there one there already?

Sort of but it's not deep enough or wide enough to flush your atty with an oring under it unless you use a really thin oring. Would be nice to have a dedicated channel for a standard size oring. Kinda like how you can drop an oring in the drip well of an lp reo.

 

[pwheeler]

There is a little space around the 510, maybe 1mm worth.

Sent by REO vapor

 

[muzichead]

A 12mm x 1mm fits the recess perfect. Although the 5mm x 1mm around the 510 of the atty works better imo...

 

[Alexander Mundy]

i absolutely love the shape of this design for my hand size, but with my natural grab, having the squonk hole cut a bit higher (maybe just a couple mm) would be quite a bonus, as i often squonk & vape at the same time. i don't have the strength in my pinky to squonk it and i use my ring finger, which does have the strength with the vapage bottles ... not so much with the kit bottles.

what finger does everyone else use to squonk?

I normally use my ring finger, but I gots construction hands so it's not a problem for me.

 

[junquedujour]

The button mod is so worth it. You don't have to worry about your mod not firing cause the small nut/ bolt fell off your lug. I did it to all my Peko and I have a third coming and will do that one also. I even go as far as soldering a solid copper rod in place of the threaded brass rod. But that's no necessary I just love to solder things. I bought my 26g wire from a local music audio place. The button mod is not a solid copper rod. The button would be very stiff if used that. I used 16g high strand copper wire. Tell you what, PM your address and I'll give you enough copper strand to do a few Peko's. All you need is a half inch per mod.

-Mark

Wire between the button and the 510? I use 18 gauge "high flex" (high-strand count, silicone insulated). I would not use solid wire for that. Solid copper does not like to flex repeatedly and will eventually break.

Some have used 10 or 12 gauge solid copper in place of the threaded brass rod, but that's not subject to any flexing.

is this still working well for you guys? apparently i don't have the strength to keep that nut tightened so i need to consider something else.

also i see where RGLP4Lyfe got his at a music store (i think), but where did you get yours Rossum?

 

[Roscoe01]

Although I am not having trouble with mine coming loose since I soldered that tiny nut in place I am ordering some beryllium copper sheet to make a one piece connector from 510 to firing pin. I will let you all know how it works if I ever get it done[emoji47]

 

[junquedujour]

Although I am not having trouble with mine coming loose since I soldered that tiny nut in place I am ordering some beryllium copper sheet to make a one piece connector from 510 to firing pin. I will let you all know how it works if I ever get it done[emoji47]

ahh. i didn't think about soldering the nut. thanks!

don't forget to take pics when ya do the other mod.

 

[Rossum]

where did you get yours Rossum?

Some from Hobby King, some from Amazon.

 

[RGLP4Lyfe]

is this still working well for you guys? apparently i don't have the strength to keep that nut tightened so i need to consider something else.

also i see where RGLP4Lyfe got his at a music store (i think), but where did you get yours Rossum?

Yes all 4 of my Pekos have the wire mod done in place of solder lugs and tiny nuts. They are hold up great to everyday button pressing.

I used 16g high strand in two of them, and 18g high strand in the others. I got the high strand copper wire from a local car audio shop. 1 foot of wire for 25 cents!

-Mark

 

[Mark Howard]

Yes all 4 of my Pekos have the wire mod done in place of solder lugs and tiny nuts. They are hold up great to everyday button pressing.

I used 16g high strand in two of them, and 18g high strand in the others. I got the high strand copper wire from a local car audio shop. 1 foot of wire for 25 cents!

-Mark

Got pics for us?

 

[pwheeler]

Yes all 4 of my Pekos have the wire mod done in place of solder lugs and tiny nuts. They are hold up great to everyday button pressing.

I used 16g high strand in two of them, and 18g high strand in the others. I got the high strand copper wire from a local car audio shop. 1 foot of wire for 25 cents!

-Mark

I want to do mine, but it seems I've misplaced my soldering iron[emoji16]. Mark, do you have pics on your wire mod? I have like 10ft of 16g hi strand, silicone jacketed wire. Do we just cut the solder lugs in half and bridge the gap with the wire?

Sent by REO vapor

 

[drmarble]

I want to do mine, but it seems I've misplaced my soldering iron[emoji16]. Mark, do you have pics on your wire mod? I have like 10ft of 16g hi strand, silicone jacketed wire. Do we just cut the solder lugs in half and bridge the gap with the wire?

Sent by REO vapor

That is what I did on one of mine. It works great. I like the easier button action. I haven't done my other yet. It still works fine. You can always put a spot of nail polish on the nut after you tighten it. That keeps it from loosening but you break it free if you have to.

 

[RGLP4Lyfe]

I want to do mine, but it seems I've misplaced my soldering iron[emoji16]. Mark, do you have pics on your wire mod? I have like 10ft of 16g hi strand, silicone jacketed wire. Do we just cut the solder lugs in half and bridge the gap with the wire?

Sent by REO vapor

Yup. Its simple. Cut the solder lugs down a little.. not to much or your solder will interfere with tightening your 510 ring and button nuts. After you cut the lugs down just hold the wire in place and solder. Easy peasy. Only need about 1/4" of wire. Maybe a snip more to be safe.

-Mark

 

[pwheeler]

Thanks, Mark. Are you using springs or magnets? I tried doing the magnets, but they gave me fits, so ended up doing the same springs. One with the heavy spring and light one in the other.

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[Rossum]

Got pics for us?

Old pics, v1.0 PeKo, but hey...

Somewhat newer:

 

[pwheeler]

Old pics, v1.0 PeKo, but hey...

Somewhat newer:

Great shots, thanks! Gives me a good idea how far to cut these[emoji106]

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[RGLP4Lyfe]

Pwheeler- I'm using springs. Magnets don't agree with me either. I used 3 magnets in one button and it still was too loose. It auto fired. Actually on my 4th Peko I didn't have a spring. So I took the spring off my spare reo spring and opened up the top a little more and it fits right in the Peko and makes for a nice stiff button. I am enjoying it.
BTW yall, shapeways sent me an email. 10% off until April 20. "THANKYOU10"
-Mark

 

[Moxienator]

Although I am not having trouble with mine coming loose since I soldered that tiny nut in place I am ordering some beryllium copper sheet to make a one piece connector from 510 to firing pin. I will let you all know how it works if I ever get it done[emoji47]

I was thinking of doing this as well. Let us know how it goes.


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[Alexander Mundy]

Although I am not having trouble with mine coming loose since I soldered that tiny nut in place I am ordering some beryllium copper sheet to make a one piece connector from 510 to firing pin. I will let you all know how it works if I ever get it done[emoji47]

I did that back in Beta stage but it was too stiff compared to Rossum's wire mod which is what mine have now.

 

[Roscoe01]

I did that back in Beta stage but it was too stiff compared to Rossum's wire mod which is what mine have now.

Do you remember what thickness you used? I was thinking .5mm becu and no button spring. I pocket without locking s lot and set firing pin to a very short throw.