Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod
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Man, that looks slick gdeal! I might have to get something like that done.Finished up another one this morning. Only took 1/2 a cup of coffee. These are getting easier to assemble.I sent this out a while ago to get Hydrodipped. The guy did a really nice job. First he sealed the device, then applied the pattern, then sealed with a clear coat. This is a v1 model not the current v1.1 model. So it doesnt have the secret feature upgrade.....
Yup. It can be a bit tricky to get 1/16" ID tubing started on a 6-32 screw, but once you get it on there a bit, you twist it until it bottoms out on the nut and it stays put very well (and doesn't leak). Let me see if I can get a pic...
Edit, here you go:
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I got my GDNA dipped with a carbon fiber print. Like gdeal, the shop primed and painted the plastic then dipped it then clear coated.
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Would love to see a detailed breakdown of the "negative/positive" assemble with the 510. I've been using FatDaddy 510's and the bottom feeder pins but they just don't feel as easy to use as they should be.
This might help to get a classic FD 510 in shape for bottom feeding. Its an album base walk-though for how I did it.
https://imgur.com/a/ouV6h
Nice tutorial, just a suggestion but if you double nut the end of that screw and tighten them together you can chuck them in the drill and not worry about damaging the threads.
The assembly yes...its just a matter of placing hardware and tightening nuts. Painting/finishing the mod...will add time, depends on what you want to do with it..
This looks great! I'm curious to know how the button works. Can you show that to me?
Very impressive device!
Thanks
Geo
Very impressive device!
Thanks
Geo
Thanks Geo!. Here is a cutaway of the CAD. The lower brass bolt is secured by the middle nut to the Solder Lug that connects across to the Atty. The top brass nut is CA glued into the fire button. The spring sits on the internal structure so that the force is pushing the firing pin (brass bolt) upwards. The distance of push required to fire the device is adjustable by turning the fire button. You can also "lock" the device by fully turning the Fire button clockwise.
I have bin checking Shapeways and this isn't on the gdeal page yet Any idea when it will show up? Also wondering what the cost of the plastic will be like?
Any idea when it will show up? Also wondering what the cost of the plastic will be like?All in the cheapest White, Strong, Flexible, it was around $65. However, Shapeways is changing how they price stuff, so it's hard to predict what it will be in the future; might be more, might be less.
No plan of battle ever survives contact with the enemy.
Hopefully there will be some more v1.1s built soon. Personally, I'm not that enamored with the mechanical linkage between the button and the 510, 'cause it makes the button kinda stiff. Soldering a piece of much more flexible wire in place of that linkage solves this problem, and I've been running my v1.0 like that for 3-4 weeks. However, any wire at all means it's not a "true mechanical", and of course will then require a soldering iron to assemble.
In the end, gdeal is the guy with the mad CAD skillz. It's his baby, and he's the one who decides when it's ready to be released. Until then, talk of a misc parts coop is probably premature.
This model actually improves in price!
Looks like about 5%. Sounds good but its only about $4.No plan of battle ever survives contact with the enemy.
Hopefully there will be some more v1.1s built soon. Personally, I'm not that enamored with the mechanical linkage between the button and the 510, 'cause it makes the button kinda stiff. Soldering a piece of much more flexible wire in place of that linkage solves this problem, and I've been running my v1.0 like that for 3-4 weeks. However, any wire at all means it's not a "true mechanical", and of course will then require a soldering iron to assemble.
In the end, gdeal is the guy with the mad CAD skillz. It's his baby, and he's the one who decides when it's ready to be released. Until then, talk of a misc parts coop is probably premature.
I think the stiffness of the button push is going to be a user preference. With the current hardware, the mechanical linkages dont float, so they provide their own resistance. Its not a feathery touch. There is also resistance from the spring. Right now there two options for the spring. Heavy and light and then there is also a magnet set up as well (even lighter). It is definitely stiffer than a tact switch and slightly stiffer than a stock Reo. But the button throw is adjustable on the fly and I have mine set-up with less than 1mm of throw, so I dont really notice the stiffness at all.
As Rossum said, there is a v1.1, that has some additional tweaks, mostly minor, but one of the improvement includes a magnetic enclosure feature. I guess more on that when devices are built shortly.
If the v1.1 looks good to the beta guys, I'll release it. A co-op will need a sponsor......
I suppose Fat Daddy Vapes is a source for magnet switch parts.
Any word on how our friend Dennis is doing?
Any word on how our friend Dennis is doing?
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