Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

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Roscoe01

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Finally, those lugs, once held flush to the top of the internal by the 510 nut, make for a stiffer leaf than I was anticipating. I'm not sure that even the heavy button spring is actually contributing any resistance/return to the button throw beyond what the lugs themselves already do. As I said in a previous post, I really liked the subtle, loose feel of the button when I first tried the opposing magnets, before the lugs were in place. I'm thinking I might try replacing the small lug with a piece of 18ga stranded wire in order to retain that feel. It would also allow the button to travel more-or-less straight down rather than at the angled arc prescribed by the attachment to the lugs. Of course, it would also make the mod no longer purely mechanical, but I'm wondering if anyone can see any other obvious adverse effects?


I totally agree with this. It is the only gripe I have with this mod. I was thinking of replacing the small solder lug with something more flexible as well.
 

BobC

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I totally agree with this. It is the only gripe I have with this mod. I was thinking of replacing the small solder lug with something more flexible as well.

I'm running three of these, all with magnet switches, one with tall button, two with short buttons. All have a very gentile throw, so I'm curious as to how you're putting it together, have you tried loosening the fire pin screw a touch?
 

gdeal

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Roscoe01

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I'm running three of these, all with magnet switches, one with tall button, two with short buttons. All have a very gentile throw, so I'm curious as to how you're putting it together, have you tried loosening the fire pin screw a touch?
Tall button..with magnets. Firing pin adjusted till auto fire then backed off till stops. I'm thinking maybe a thin washer under the firing pin screw head would help to position pin closer to battery so less deflection of solder lug would be necessary.
 

Rossum

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I totally agree with this. It is the only gripe I have with this mod. I was thinking of replacing the small solder lug with something more flexible as well.
18 gauge high-strand count, silicone insulated wire works for me. Yes, I realize that technically this means it's no longer a "mech". I don't actually replace the solder lugs. I just cut them both back, leaving enough to solder the wire to.

HO2rMzJ.jpg
 

junquedujour

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18 gauge high-strand count, silicone insulated wire works for me. Yes, I realize that technically this means it's no longer a "mech". I don't actually replace the solder lugs. I just cut them both back, leaving enough to solder the wire to.

it looks like you have a flattened screw in there also. mine is a rounded top. i wonder if that could possibly be cause for me not being able to *turn off* the button ??
 

Roscoe01

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18 gauge high-strand count, silicone insulated wire works for me. Yes, I realize that technically this means it's no longer a "mech". I don't actually replace the solder lugs. I just cut them both back, leaving enough to solder the wire to.

HO2rMzJ.jpg
Gonna do the next one this way.

For the record I love this mod so much that my reo may end up in the classys. I am really rough on my mods due to my work environment and I love that I can order new shells as I tear them up[emoji16]
 

gdeal

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gdeal

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phibbus

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18 gauge high-strand count, silicone insulated wire works for me. Yes, I realize that technically this means it's no longer a "mech". I don't actually replace the solder lugs. I just cut them both back, leaving enough to solder the wire to.

HO2rMzJ.jpg

That's pretty much exactly what I was contemplating. Did you by any chance check if there's a difference in voltage drop between that and the unmodified lug?

I had also thought of maybe replacing the nut joining the two lugs with a piece of soldered wire bent into a semi-coil.

(P.S. I'm really loving this mod, as well. No griping, here, just full and thankful appreciation with a dose of experimentation.)
 

phibbus

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it looks like you have a flattened screw in there also. mine is a rounded top. i wonder if that could possibly be cause for me not being able to *turn off* the button ??

Note that, if you're willing to cut off some of its length, you could probably use the brass positive pin that comes with the Fat Daddy connector (which is replaced by the ss vented screw.) It's the same diameter and thread pitch, and the head is perfectly flat. Of course, there's no slot in it, either, to assist tightening the nut, but iI think friction from the lug might be sufficient.
 

Alexander Mundy

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Note that, if you're willing to cut off some of its length, you could probably use the brass positive pin that comes with the Fat Daddy connector (which is replaced by the ss vented screw.) It's the same diameter and thread pitch, and the head is perfectly flat. Of course, there's no slot in it, either, to assist tightening the nut, but iI think friction from the lug might be sufficient.

Works great, that's what I use in mine. Just have to shorten it.
 
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