Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

[finagle69]

My print overall is good and the color is just fine. Frame slides loosely into the main shell. top cap is a bear to get onto the top. I'll need to sand the top portion of the frame as it's rubbing trying to press the top cap onto it.

There was some slag in the hole that the rod goes in, so that's very simple to fix.

My main problem is that the battery clip location is completely filled in. I've taken some time with an exacto knife to get some of it functional, but now I'm at the point where the wider portion of the clip still needs to slide in, and it's just a pain. Is there a simpler way other than trying to scrape in there with an exacto?

Buttons and ring are perfect, even the print recess that accepts the hex nut.

 

[Aal_]

Guys how do you get rid of the paint/clear coat smell after you spray the parts?

 

[finagle69]

So your print doesnt look like this where the battery clip is placed?

View attachment 416107 View attachment 416108

One option to debulk is to use a dremel, I also use a forward facing blade to precisely shave smaller areas. Something like this.

Maybe also email CS and request a replacement part for a bad print?

Correct. I'll look through my dremel supplies to see what may work without creating too large an opening.

 

[HappiVappi]

I hate to annoy you all...my PEKO is in the dry dock now.
It appears as if juice was leaking from the 510 into the top cap. It even found its way to the battery. When I disassembled the top I found juice all over.
The 510 screws in really tight into the cap and I also had the brass nut really tight against it from the underside.

The bottle cap, feeding tube and connection to the vented screw was dry to the bone.

Hm.....any ideas?

Thanks.

Cheers.

 

[muzichead]

Do you have the o-ring under the feeder screw inside the 510? Only thing I can think it would be...

 

[rudedog]

I know I read something on the setup of the bottle on this peko,I just cant find it.also I have my 1st magnet in and am a bit confused(easy4me)as to the 2nd magnet and did I read the sheet right...superglue the 2nd magnet to the 1st??I need to tighten the lil nuts on the rod and im almost ready to fire.im just tryin to be dbl check and sure so I don't mess this up...

 

[inswva]

I know I read something on the setup of the bottle on this peko,I just cant find it.also I have my 1st magnet in and am a bit confused(easy4me)as to the 2nd magnet and did I read the sheet right...superglue the 2nd magnet to the 1st??I need to tighten the lil nuts on the rod and im almost ready to fire.im just tryin to be dbl check and sure so I don't mess this up...

Bottle mod:

Gdeal's DNA Squonker Bottle Mod - Album on Imgur

 

[HappiVappi]

Do you have the o-ring under the feeder screw inside the 510? Only thing I can think it would be...

Yes. If I had not, juice would go down the threading of that vented screw, but as I said that section is dry to the bone.

 

[HappiVappi]

If juice is between your top cap and internal, then it sounds like the atty isnt sealed properly to the 510 or you majorly oversquonked. There are two ways to seal the atty to the 510. Either a big oring around the 510 or a drip tip sized o-ring around the 510 threads of the atty should do the trick. It you have one of these and you are still leaking, then you need to check the fit . If the connections are tight and position is right, you should seal.

No oversquonking on my part, but the o-ring around the 510 of the atty should help. I am thinking a Kanger EVOD coild o-ring could be the ticket. I have a bag of old crap floating around somewhere.

 

[rudedog]

thanks Nate,ive a neat bit with the lil super sharp point and nice for centering and drilling all the way through.yee haw im about readt to fill a bottle up.cyclone fired right off after I set the button depth right and sizzzzzlle dual coils fired off!

Bottle mod:

Gdeal's DNA Squonker Bottle Mod - Album on Imgur

 

[HappiVappi]

you could also try an oring from an old drip tip. If you look at the classic 510 there is a nice rounded inner edge where the threads start. , just make sure the oring can fill that space.

Sounds like a good idea. I will try that too. I suspect that with every squonk the 510 fills up, because the Zenith center pin is also slotted and some juice gets up and over the 510, escapes over the slots of he FD 510 and seeps on the outside down the threading into the mod.

I wish there would be a better alternative to the FD 510. I have the feeling those threads are just not right. Somewhat wobbly and not smooth by any stretch of imagination.

Thank you as always.

Cheers.

 

[Aal_]

So I am happy with the clear coats I did. Although an imperfection appeared on the brown one because of me touching it before drying I'm still happy with the way they turned out. So I'm sure it is a stupid process when compared to some of the professionals here but for a beginner I will post it anyway.

I used an alkyd based varnish on the beige one and an acryl based one on the brown one. Alkyd turns yellowish so it gave the beige one nice warmth and it is not high gloss. The beige reminds me of caramel and the brown with the high gloss looks like a tasty piece of chocolate lol.

Started with spraying around 3 coats consecutive (with 1 minute in between) then cured for 24 hours, then sanded with a 1000 grit sandpaper then repeated the 3 coats and waited another 24 hours. The imperfections of the beige one in the original dye stayed there but the yellowish tint helped in uniforming it a bit.

 

[rudedog]

didn't glue them been waitin to hear from yall cuz it didn't make sense to me to do that....lol.this sites invaluable to new builders for sure!i do have bottle all ready to fill attys firing.this badboys ready to vape...I think!lol,maybe,probly just need to do it!

addit:sheesh I need to read slower,got it now a drop on TOP of the 2nd magnet then slide in and up leave set til dry...duh.gonna do a few dry runs and see what I see with the 2nd magnet.the bottom mag I had to use a pencil with sand paper to get the mag to fit in it.then it fit supertight and wouldn't come out.so I put the SG at the bottom opening at the base of the magnet.glad you all have patients with add types!

Page 12 of the build doc. https://dl.orangedox.com/gNV6GTduBhAvZgt3kQ/Peko V1.1 Mechanical Mod Build.pdf

No dont glue the magnets together!!!!!!

 

[finagle69]

Peko 26650 build

This shows the modification needed to fit the upper of the frame into the top cap.

Hopefully you can see that the area above the shelf edge is rounded from the printer, I shaved this and sanded a little as well to fit.

Some pics of the assembled mechanical parts.

Assembled and comparison with Peko for size.

Clearance under batteries.

 

[RGLP4Lyfe]

Rick, if the bottom magnet is tight in there that's a good thing. And super glue added by that base opening was a good idea. Just don't slide the mod together until you know that parts dry. Or you won't get the mod back apart! So you have all the parts in and tightened? If so screw a atty on and put a bottle on and vape it up. And if you can, lets see some pictures!

-Mark

 

[RGLP4Lyfe]

Man Finagle I can't see ANY of your pictures?! I want to see one sooo bad. Freakin BUMMER. If your not busy can you try to PM me a few? Like size comparison to Peko and inside shot? Or send a link to your photo gallery? Please and thank you!

-Mark

 

[muzichead]

Sounds like a good idea. I will try that too. I suspect that with every squonk the 510 fills up, because the Zenith center pin is also slotted and some juice gets up and over the 510, escapes over the slots of he FD 510 and seeps on the outside down the threading into the mod.

I wish there would be a better alternative to the FD 510. I have the feeling those threads are just not right. Somewhat wobbly and not smooth by any stretch of imagination.

Thank you as always.

Cheers.

I have been sitting here for a while looking at mine and just don't get how you are getting liquid inside the top cap. If it's not from the bottle, tube, or the feed pin, then maybe you don't have the 510 tightened down flush into the top cap with the brass nut that has the slots in it. If the 510 isn't sealed correctly, and fills up and seeps out under the atty, it could go down between the 510 connector and top cap. I used an angled pick tool to turn the nut using the slots and made sure it was nice and tight. I have heard of some using a small screwdriver, but I don't have one that small. The pick I used was good because it was angled and I could use pressure holding the handle and almost pulling the nut around to tighten it. If that ain't your problem, I'm as baffled about it as you are...

 

[pwheeler]

I finally got my v1.1 together today! Man, I had a time with it with my big hands and those little itty bitty parts, but I finally made it. I didn't paint it or anything, I just wanted to see how it goes together and see how it works. My internal framework was firm enough I didn't even put the two magnets in there. I used the tall button and the firm spring. Got it all together, used a 9ml Vapage bottle and battery, my Derringer and it hits like a beast! Wow, my Reos have been having problems hitting hard, I think the firing pins might be wearing out, but this thing is amazing! Gotta order my v2.1 prints as soon as I can. I have 2 internal kits reserved for those. Oh, and I had to read and re-read that part about the body magnets, too, so I understand the confusion there.

 

[finagle69]

The magnets were very necessary for the 26650 shell. it's not near as tight as my 18650.

 

[HappiVappi]

I have been sitting here for a while looking at mine and just don't get how you are getting liquid inside the top cap. If it's not from the bottle, tube, or the feed pin, then maybe you don't have the 510 tightened down flush into the top cap with the brass nut that has the slots in it. If the 510 isn't sealed correctly, and fills up and seeps out under the atty, it could go down between the 510 connector and top cap. I used an angled pick tool to turn the nut using the slots and made sure it was nice and tight. I have heard of some using a small screwdriver, but I don't have one that small. The pick I used was good because it was angled and I could use pressure holding the handle and almost pulling the nut around to tighten it. If that ain't your problem, I'm as baffled about it as you are...

I actually use a modified pliers ( retaining ring ) to tightening the brass nut. If you ever had a leaking roof, then you know how challenging it can be to stop fluid from going wherever it wants to go.

Cheers

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk