Nice!! Why thank you. Now I see that red beauty. Is that painted by you or printed red??
How about now?
-Mark
Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod
- Thread starter gdeal
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I just ordered my third Peko (18650) I love the size and only have one 26650, where as I have like 15 18650's. But anyway I got the print from Sculpteo, as always, and this time I got it in kawa green. I use to have two reos in kawa. I love green so I figured my third Peko shall be green. I'm gonna clear coat like crazy to preserve the only skin deep color..
-Mark
-Mark
Mine's the red print for the body and grey print for the ring and buttons.
The 26650 is so worth it. It feels excellent in my hand and the extra battery life is awesome. I'm running a 0.35ohm build in that Odin, so 4500mAh is very welcome.
Built my first Peko last night!
I haven't commented ever on this thread, but I spent most of my Friday night reading every single page in preparation for the awesomeness that arrived Saturday morning.
It took my most of Saturday evening to build. Had some trouble with the spring- maybe I didn't seat it right, but once it was all together it would stick in the firing position, so I changed it out with the magnets. Much easier. But, the throw is really stiff (for me), wondering if anyone has tips on how to loosen it? I've moved the button around in the hole to get excess material off, and I've tried adjusting it by turning it. It's not a big deal, I'm getting used to it. And it certainly won't go off in my pocket or anything.
The other issue I had was with the 510. Threads don't seem very tight or something... I have a hell of a time getting either of my Nuppins to thread. It took quite a bit of adjusting to get the screw in just the right place to fire properly, but it helps if I put the atty on first, and then turn the nut on the vented screw until it makes contact.
I've seen these things around in different BF threads, and honestly didn't think about building one because all the photos seem to really capture the texture and it looks... I don't know, cheap or flimsy or something. I had plans to paint the shell, but once I saw it & held it, I was sold. I LOVE the plain matte black. It looks & feels great! Makes my grand feel like a giant cold square tank (a pretty sparkly blue tank, but still...)
Anyway, I am totally in love with this thing, and just picked up another parts kit tonight. Really satisfying to build something myself, and I'm looking forward to building another one. Thanks to everyone in this thread for all the helpful info, and especially gdeal for this seriously amazing design.
I haven't commented ever on this thread, but I spent most of my Friday night reading every single page in preparation for the awesomeness that arrived Saturday morning.
It took my most of Saturday evening to build. Had some trouble with the spring- maybe I didn't seat it right, but once it was all together it would stick in the firing position, so I changed it out with the magnets. Much easier. But, the throw is really stiff (for me), wondering if anyone has tips on how to loosen it? I've moved the button around in the hole to get excess material off, and I've tried adjusting it by turning it. It's not a big deal, I'm getting used to it. And it certainly won't go off in my pocket or anything.
The other issue I had was with the 510. Threads don't seem very tight or something... I have a hell of a time getting either of my Nuppins to thread. It took quite a bit of adjusting to get the screw in just the right place to fire properly, but it helps if I put the atty on first, and then turn the nut on the vented screw until it makes contact.
I've seen these things around in different BF threads, and honestly didn't think about building one because all the photos seem to really capture the texture and it looks... I don't know, cheap or flimsy or something. I had plans to paint the shell, but once I saw it & held it, I was sold. I LOVE the plain matte black. It looks & feels great! Makes my grand feel like a giant cold square tank (a pretty sparkly blue tank, but still...)
Anyway, I am totally in love with this thing, and just picked up another parts kit tonight. Really satisfying to build something myself, and I'm looking forward to building another one. Thanks to everyone in this thread for all the helpful info, and especially gdeal for this seriously amazing design.
Congrats Henry etta! I've since got 3 Pekos now and sold a grand to get more! I use them exclusively! And for the button, i use springs and prefer them.. my magnets were weak and actually cracked on me.. but with magnets it shouldn't be that stiff? Maybe Gdeal can chime in. And the 510.. I had nuppins on mine and derringers and many more. No problems. Maybe your 510 is bad? The threads are loose in anything but I never had a problem..do you have extra 510s? I'd switch them out. If not buy some from fat daddy. 3 of them for $10. I had to adjust my Nuppin to sit flush but that was all..
-Mark
-Mark
If u got a torch you can anneal your solder lugs and it helps a bunch on hard button push. Also be sure you got small lug bolted under the large one.Built my first Peko last night!
View attachment 416480
I haven't commented ever on this thread, but I spent most of my Friday night reading every single page in preparation for the awesomeness that arrived Saturday morning.
It took my most of Saturday evening to build. Had some trouble with the spring- maybe I didn't seat it right, but once it was all together it would stick in the firing position, so I changed it out with the magnets. Much easier. But, the throw is really stiff (for me), wondering if anyone has tips on how to loosen it? I've moved the button around in the hole to get excess material off, and I've tried adjusting it by turning it. It's not a big deal, I'm getting used to it. And it certainly won't go off in my pocket or anything.
The other issue I had was with the 510. Threads don't seem very tight or something... I have a hell of a time getting either of my Nuppins to thread. It took quite a bit of adjusting to get the screw in just the right place to fire properly, but it helps if I put the atty on first, and then turn the nut on the vented screw until it makes contact.
I've seen these things around in different BF threads, and honestly didn't think about building one because all the photos seem to really capture the texture and it looks... I don't know, cheap or flimsy or something. I had plans to paint the shell, but once I saw it & held it, I was sold. I LOVE the plain matte black. It looks & feels great! Makes my grand feel like a giant cold square tank (a pretty sparkly blue tank, but still...)
Anyway, I am totally in love with this thing, and just picked up another parts kit tonight. Really satisfying to build something myself, and I'm looking forward to building another one. Thanks to everyone in this thread for all the helpful info, and especially gdeal for this seriously amazing design.
Good tip Roscoe! Oh and what I.did to all mine was replace the button to 510 lugs with 16 g copper wire. Soldered in. Works great and button press is silky smooth.
-Mark
The big solder lug is under the small... shouldn't of had so many beers... I'll switch them. Thanks!
Building Pekos and drinking beers is not a good combination! Glad I don't drink anymore!
-Mark
Building Pekos and drinking beers is not a good combination! Glad I don't drink anymore!
-Mark
I drank when I built mine, so now I'm going to tear it down and rebuild
...I want to cut the lugs down and solder wire for the button but I have a question. I feel like I read you guys are using 16 awg SOLID wire, but I can't find any small lengths. I don't need 100 ft, and don't want to drop the cash for something I'll never use. Am I remembering wrong, and if not, will stranded make a big difference in performance?The button mod is so worth it. You don't have to worry about your mod not firing cause the small nut/ bolt fell off your lug. I did it to all my Peko and I have a third coming and will do that one also. I even go as far as soldering a solid copper rod in place of the threaded brass rod. But that's no necessary I just love to solder things. I bought my 26g wire from a local music audio place. The button mod is not a solid copper rod. The button would be very stiff if used that. I used 16g high strand copper wire. Tell you what, PM your address and I'll give you enough copper strand to do a few Peko's. All you need is a half inch per mod.I drank when I built mine, so now I'm going to tear it down and rebuild
-Mark
Wire between the button and the 510? I use 18 gauge "high flex" (high-strand count, silicone insulated). I would not use solid wire for that. Solid copper does not like to flex repeatedly and will eventually break.
Some have used 10 or 12 gauge solid copper in place of the threaded brass rod, but that's not subject to any flexing.
Some have used 10 or 12 gauge solid copper in place of the threaded brass rod, but that's not subject to any flexing.
Yeah. That's what I said. I used 16 high strand, where as you used 18g.. same deal basically.
I also replaced all my prints with the copper rod in place of the threaded. I just like to solder though!
-Mark
I built the 26650 with full mech parts as its a beta and wanted to provide feedback.
That said, I'm spring and magnet less. The assembled solder lugs with just a slight upward bend applied to them provides the perfect resistance for button throw to me. And still allows full adjustability.
That said, I'm spring and magnet less. The assembled solder lugs with just a slight upward bend applied to them provides the perfect resistance for button throw to me. And still allows full adjustability.
How about now?
Do you have an o-ring between the atty and the top cap?
Well that's different. And interesting. I feel like once they bend back down from normal button pressing you may just need a spring or magnets?
-Mark
No, I never do that and never have problems. The gap is from positioning for airhole alignment.
I actually prefer to have a gap with these 3D prints. I run low enough ohms that I worry about heat transferring from the Atty to the top caps. So the gap is a good way to insulate.
The lugs when fully tightened really hold their shape well. So just putting a slight upward bend is all it needs.
Can I buy parts kits somewhere? I would buy one right now if I knew where.
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