Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

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Vapeaholic

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What is that white block at the end of the tube, fuse block I hope.

That spring, is that one of those that collapses in case of a short by any chance? I think the ones offered in the "repair" kit for a REO are like that.

This is a mechanical bottom feeder mod. It doesn't have any built in safety features like fuses or collapsing springs. Users must rely on experience\knowledge of ohms law and common sense.
 
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HappiVappi

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This is a mechanical bottom feeder mod. It doesn't have any built in safety features like fuses or collapsing springs. Users must rely on experience\knowledge of ohms law and common sense.

Oh really. Quite patronizing too. What do you think the REO Grand is? A voodoo bottom feeder mod?
I just did not realise that the negative connection cannot be made through the mod body. A plastic mod is something I am not used to, thus it took a while to sink in.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
 

Vapeaholic

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Oh really. Quite patronizing too. What do you think the REO Grand is? A voodoo bottom feeder mod?
I just did not realise that the negative connection cannot be made through the mod body. A plastic mod is something I am not used to, thus it took a while to sink in.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

I apologize if I came across as patronizing. Just felt it was important info you needed to know.
I have 4 Reo's and it's not voodoo, it's magic porcupine dust :D
 

BobC

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Oh really. Quite patronizing too. What do you think the REO Grand is? A voodoo bottom feeder mod?
I just did not realise that the negative connection cannot be made through the mod body. A plastic mod is something I am not used to, thus it took a while to sink in.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
I don't see anything patronizing in Happy's statement, he's just telling you it's a mechanical mod that has no wiring or protection. Not sure what a REO or the fact that this has a plastic body has to do with it, but trust me, none of that has any thing to do with what you were questioning
 

gdeal

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So you think it's safe enough with imr batteries?

Safe depends upon who is behind the wheel driving the car. This a basic Mechanical Mod for Modders. There are a couple of options to include a fuse is you want want one. The first is just to get a 2 cent fuse and stick it to the battery. The second option to build it in will require some changes to the mod itself. In the beta test, we talked about putting a mini fuse into the base, but that would require adding some length to the body and it would require some type of connection set up to get it in the electrical pathway. I put this option on the back burner, because the objective of mod design was to make the smallest lightest device possible. I even have a design that puts a charger into the base, but that was the same issue, it added size to the body. Doesn mean I wont do it. Just no-one has really asked for it

But thats why were are here in the modding section. :) Sharing stuff, coming up with new ideas.
 

Vapeaholic

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I don't see anything patronizing in Vapeaholic's statement, he's just telling you it's a mechanical mod that has no wiring or protection. Not sure what a REO or the fact that this has a plastic body has to do with it, but trust me, none of that has any thing to do with what you were questioning

I think I fixed it for ya :confused:
 

SkinyFatMan

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Safe depends upon who is behind the wheel driving the car. This a basic Mechanical Mod for Modders. There are a couple of options to include a fuse is you want want one. The first is just to get a 2 cent fuse and stick it to the battery. The second option to build it in will require some changes to the mod itself. In the beta test, we talked about putting a mini fuse into the base, but that would require adding some length to the body and it would require some type of connection set up to get it in the electrical pathway. I put this option on the back burner, because the objective of mod design was to make the smallest lightest device possible. I even have a design that puts a charger into the base, but that was the same issue, it added size to the body. Doesn mean I wont do it. Just no-one has really asked for it

But thats why were are here in the modding section. :) Sharing stuff, coming up with new ideas.

How hard would it be to put a fuse in (like in the sumpin)? I don't think that I really need it since I haven't blown a dibi fuse yet, but I always figure that it's better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.
 

gdeal

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How hard would it be to put a fuse in (like in the sumpin)? I don't think that I really need it since I haven't blown a dibi fuse yet, but I always figure that it's better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

I think it could be done, It would require a couple more extra parts, a redesign of the internal part and the main body and then of course it would add to build complexity. Then the builder would need to crack open a 10 amp mini fuse and attach it. It would also add length as well to fit the extra stuff. I am not against doing it. If someone wants it, I can whip something up as second gen.
 

gdeal

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One way to do it without gdeal having to re-design the mod (and increasing its size) would be to replace the threaded rod with some copper wire and solder some PTC (resettable) fuses in the middle. It might require a bit of clearancing with a dremel, but I think it would work.

Oh yea...there are a bunch of mods that can be done. Mundy/Rossum and BobC soldered their connections so they dont really have a "Mechanical Mod" any more. If you can solder, its fairly easy to just throw a set of these in there: 2920L700SLPR Littelfuse | Mouser
just cut a segment of brass threaded rod and pop these puppies in place in parallel.

Edit:Rossum typing faster than me again lol
 

Alexander Mundy

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One way to do it without gdeal having to re-design the mod (and increasing its size) would be to replace the threaded rod with some copper wire and solder some PTC (resettable) fuses in the middle. It might require a bit of clearancing with a dremel, but I think it would work.

Next time I pull one apart I'll give that a shot just to see if it is doable without modding the plastic.
 

gdeal

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[I posted this over at the other thread as well] Ok...so this is pretty good news. While its still early to tell if Sculteo will rise to king of 3D print vendors, they are surely making a good a really good climb up that hill.

I wrote a lengthy email to their head of marketing over the weekend and got a response early this morning. I explained the two issues that people were running into ordering parts. The first was having orders cancelled due to Alumide not being available for multiple part files and not being able to use the credit for reorder and the second is that the discount code referral promotion wasnt working.

So they were very nice and provided a special code that you guys can use directly. No need to provide a referral and it will work for any of the GDNA or PeKo model. The secret code is "GDeal" and its for 10%. Make sure you use capitals for the "G" and the "D".

The other issue will be addressed with their accountants, hopefully today. If you do have a credit issued, it will show up next to the paypal option.

It will look like something like this:

View attachment 382733
 
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Kentastic

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Good news!www.sculpteo.com

Your 3D model Peko V1.1- Mechanical - All parts Both buttons (order PJBR3J2K) has been correctly printed. You will receive a new e-mail very soon to let you know that your model has been shipped.
Attached, some pictures of your brand new item!
 

gdeal

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