Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

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Rossum

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lost in the black hole.:facepalm:
Yep. I own a (non vape related) business that ships thousands of packages a year. Despite the fact that USPS is cheaper, we charge just as much to ship via USPS as via UPS or FedEx ground. Why? Because the rate of loss and excessive delays with the USPS is much higher than it is with the private carriers, and we don't want to encourage frugal customers to choose USPS to save a couple of bucks, 'cause in the end, the hassle isn't worth it.
 

Vapeaholic

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Yep. I own a (non vape related) business that ships thousands of packages a year. Despite the fact that USPS is cheaper, we charge just as much to ship via USPS as via UPS or FedEx ground. Why? Because the rate of loss and excessive delays with the USPS is much higher than it is with the private carriers, and we don't want to encourage frugal customers to choose USPS to save a couple of bucks, 'cause in the end, the hassle isn't worth it.
Yep, and of course it happens to a package that can't be easily reordered and replaced.
 

Kentastic

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One thing I did have to do was switch over to the light spring for the firing button. When I tried the magnets they were so weak that they barely kept the button from auto-firing. It was pretty impressive to literally have a touch-button firing, but I quickly got tired of every time grabbed it, it would start firing just from the movement. I'll have to experiment with the next one now that I kinda know what I'm doing. Maybe I can figure out what I was doing wrong or just plain add a third magnet.

I figured out what the issue was with the button. It was a combination of the solder lug/firing pin assembly (friggin tiny-ayas screw & nut) needing to be adjusted so it wouldn't rub against the plastic and the bottom magnet for the button assembly was not seating into the grove made for it. No problems now, but I do think I'm going to just try the spring for my next one and see if I like it. The mags are a PITA.

later,
Ken
 

lucky_x16

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Yep. I own a (non vape related) business that ships thousands of packages a year. Despite the fact that USPS is cheaper, we charge just as much to ship via USPS as via UPS or FedEx ground. Why? Because the rate of loss and excessive delays with the USPS is much higher than it is with the private carriers, and we don't want to encourage frugal customers to choose USPS to save a couple of bucks, 'cause in the end, the hassle isn't worth it.

I wish more on line companies chose UPS over USPS. UPS has some good small package rates!
 

lucky_x16

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Yeah, but don't get me started on some of their drivers around here. They are lazy and often unwilling to do the job they get paid to do.

Trust me, I do know that. I live out in the sticks. Our post office demands that we have P.O.Boxes. For that reason I subscribed to Amazon Prime, for its free 2 day shipping to your door. I can tell when my UPS driver is out or on vacation, because UPS also has a deal with USPS for dropping off and letting them deliver it. And that driver does that instead of the home delivery, and states I was unavailable, yet there has never been a sticker on my door.
 

Kentastic

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Should be receiving White polished parts soon and was wondering, will the polished parts affect porosity of plastic. Thinking of going the Rit Dye route for ring and button (Or spray paint, not sure yet) but wondering if it will take the color.

Polished is the same material as the raw. They throw it into something akin to a rock polisher. It's like paying a little more to have someone sand all the rough edges off. No change in porosity.
 

Kentastic

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#2 is done. Black polished plastic from Sculpteo.com came out pretty good. Camera photos are pretty bad though.

15894603296_7de68baea3_b.jpg


Both of these have had a few coats of Krylon clear coat on them. That's it. Oh and some time sanding them as smooth as I could before clear coating. The black polished is just a thin layer of black material and then white underneath so very little actual sanding on that one. Went over it with some 000 fine steel wool though to try and get any left over printing marks off.

Also question for the people who have been running PeKos for awhile.... do any of you glue to top cap to the internals to stop the flexing on the fire button side? I hesitate to do it because then I'd have to destroy them to get it apart, but the flex is irritating. By tightening the 510 connection and all the hardware on that side, it seems to pull the top cap up just a hair, and then I press the firing button it shifts back down to bottom out on the internal piece again. It's not a lot, but just enough that I'm tempted to "fix" it.

The only other thing I'd like to change is to make the button press easier. I've tried the magnets and the light spring, but they feel about the same to me. I thought I remembered someone mentioning modifying the piece(s) that connects the button to the 510 to get a lighter throw. Any tips?

As for the rest.... The PeKo is awesome and will probably replace my go to SL/LP TRA Reo Grand as my work vape. I love the way it squonks and it's really light. Thank you GDeal and all the beta testers that helped make this mod as simple and perfect as an DIY mod could be.

later,
Ken
 

gdeal

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junquedujour

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i did an ever-so-bit of mix 'n match with the white plastic:

2x PeKo V1.1 - Mechanical Mod - Ring in White Strong & Flexible Polished
1x PeKo V1.1 - Mechanical - Body in White Strong & Flexible Polished
1x PeKo V1.1- Mechanical - Internal in White Strong & Flexible Polished
2x PeKo V1.1 - Mechanical Mod - Fire Button - Low in White Strong & Flexible Polished
1x PeKo V1.1 - Mechanical - Top Cap in White Strong & Flexible Polished
1x PeKo V1.1 - Mechanical - Body in White Strong & Flexible
1x PeKo V1.1- Mechanical - Internal in White Strong & Flexible
1x PeKo V1.1 - Mechanical - Top Cap in White Strong & Flexible

it came to $108.76 total.

a very g'deal posted by gdeal. heh.
 

Lillie Bennett

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#2 is done. Black polished plastic from Sculpteo.com came out pretty good. Camera photos are pretty bad though.

15894603296_7de68baea3_b.jpg


Both of these have had a few coats of Krylon clear coat on them. That's it. Oh and some time sanding them as smooth as I could before clear coating. The black polished is just a thin layer of black material and then white underneath so very little actual sanding on that one. Went over it with some 000 fine steel wool though to try and get any left over printing marks off.

Also question for the people who have been running PeKos for awhile.... do any of you glue to top cap to the internals to stop the flexing on the fire button side? I hesitate to do it because then I'd have to destroy them to get it apart, but the flex is irritating. By tightening the 510 connection and all the hardware on that side, it seems to pull the top cap up just a hair, and then I press the firing button it shifts back down to bottom out on the internal piece again. It's not a lot, but just enough that I'm tempted to "fix" it.

The only other thing I'd like to change is to make the button press easier. I've tried the magnets and the light spring, but they feel about the same to me. I thought I remembered someone mentioning modifying the piece(s) that connects the button to the 510 to get a lighter throw. Any tips?

As for the rest.... The PeKo is awesome and will probably replace my go to SL/LP TRA Reo Grand as my work vape. I love the way it squonks and it's really light. Thank you GDeal and all the beta testers that helped make this mod as simple and perfect as an DIY mod could be.

later,
Ken

I'm using the stiff spring and noticed the same thing. Thinking of drilling to receive a pin, the head to sit under the ring or maybe inside. Setting the longest throw gives me the best feel of the switch but I think we'll get used to it being different.
 
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