the codes are case-sensitive but ........... it might also be tied to gdeal's shapeways shop and valid only once. would be good to know if anybody else succeeded ....
Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod
- Thread starter gdeal
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
the codes are case-sensitive but ........... it might also be tied to gdeal's shapeways shop and valid only once. would be good to know if anybody else succeeded ....
gdeal - are you using the vapage bottles in the Peko? i see that some are using them in the dna version. will they fit in the Peko?
if so, they are having a 35% off sale today only.
if so, they are having a 35% off sale today only.
I did get one put together and have been vaping it all day, BUT i had a part left over. yeh, that can't be good, eh?
it is the larger o-ring. i could not find where it goes in the instructions. i also sent one kit and shell to a friend and they are having the same question.
help please.
it is the larger o-ring. i could not find where it goes in the instructions. i also sent one kit and shell to a friend and they are having the same question.
help please.
This is just a guess, as I haven't seen or built these, but perhaps it goes on top, around the 510, to help with seepage and prevent over tightening of the rda. Maybe?
First PeKo casualty. Trying to do too many things at once causes the top assembly to go flying across a parking garage. Luckily the Shapeways cyber monday sale was still on. So repair parts and a Peko material experiment is on it's way to me. It's nice that for like $20 I can repair a broken mod back to like new again.
I haven't had a chance to read the instructions on the tutorial, so don't know if it is in there. But anyway, I was a little frustrated for a couple of minutes with the button till I realized it has plenty of adjustment already built in and the ingenious way it was built allows you to adjust by simply turning the button. I am not sure what the super glue was used for on your install with those fire screw/nuts, but I hope you didn't glue the nuts together as that is just adjustment of the fire button throw. Spin the button one direction loosens the throw all the way to the point of it not firing at all and spin it the other way until the fire button fires off at the slightest touch up till it continuously fires. So anyway, you might have already known all of this, but just in case someone did not. FYI, my preference was the light spring and then adjust until it was perfect. I also used the taller button. Might try the magnets one day, but this is already perfect, so not much point. Can't say enough how well this thing was designed......totally impressed with all the time, thought and hard work that was done! Awesome....thanks G!
LOL, too funny. Anyway, glad I finally read the instructions this morning after building two Pekos at work (shhh) over the weekend. Now I see where you used the super glue. Got it. But still, the adjustment is in spinning the button and you should be able to get a big change in sensitivity via that adjustment. Now I am debating whether or not to pull mine apart just to add the drop of super glue since it is working fine and already at the adjustment point I like....Hmmm. Oh well, I am out of projects for the moment and need something else to do.
if you're out of projects you could give the istick 510 connector some thought or an sxs 
I actually didn't know this. I think because I'm using the short button i didn't realize you can adjust the throw by screwing and unscrewing it. Thanks Drunk_J
So I also had a mishap with the button ring magnets last night. In order to compare them to the springs, I had dry-fitted them in place twice before without much trouble—just set them in the respective grooves and flipped the lid onto the internal with a smooth motion. Last night, however, I was having no luck as the magnet on the internal kept flipping over and attracting. After three times, both magnets cracked in half when they came together.
So I got out my second pair to try again, and the exact same thing happened on the very first try. That's just from the impact of attracting across about half an inch of space. Lesson: they're kind of fragile. Also, super-gluing them doesn't work since the attraction/repulsion gets screwed up once they break.
I do prefer the throw with the magnets over both springs, so I ordered 20 more.
So I got out my second pair to try again, and the exact same thing happened on the very first try. That's just from the impact of attracting across about half an inch of space. Lesson: they're kind of fragile. Also, super-gluing them doesn't work since the attraction/repulsion gets screwed up once they break.
I do prefer the throw with the magnets over both springs, so I ordered 20 more.
Page 15 of the build doc...
( I know...nobody ever reads the instruction manual...
Actually, for magnet installation, the assembly needs to be a little different,
fter gluing the big nut to the button, start with the fire pin, place the lever on top of the fire pin, the small nut should go on top of the lever and tightened, one magnet in the button the other reversed and pushed over the small nut, then screw the assembly onto the button
The result is a very soft button
the nut that joins these angled pieces fell outta mine today. luckily i found it. i'll be tearing it apart to get it back into place, but it seems i don't have the strength to tighten it as much as is needed. i wondered why my switch felt so wonky.
sooooooooooooo, does anyone think there is a problem with putting a touch of glue on that so it won't happen again? and if not glue, what else would work.
sooooooooooooo, does anyone think there is a problem with putting a touch of glue on that so it won't happen again? and if not glue, what else would work.
A little glue should work. U don't want to over tighten that nut. Hardware that miniscule is easy to strip. A little blue loctite thread locker would be best choice if u have any.
I had the same problem with mine. I just re tightened without any thread locker. If it loosens again I'm breaking out the loctite for sure.
I had the same problem with mine. I just re tightened without any thread locker. If it loosens again I'm breaking out the loctite for sure.
Hey, at least I had a semi legitimate excuse...this time...lol! I did read the DNA instructions. You kinda had to for that bad boy.( I know...nobody ever reads the instruction manual...
I'm really liking this mod but...i feel like it doesn't hit as hard as my other mods. Anybody have any tricks up there sleeve to get better conductivity? I am thinking about copper plating the solder lugs and positive contact and replacing brass rod with 10 copper wire. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
I just can't seem to leave well enough alone....[emoji91]
I just can't seem to leave well enough alone....[emoji91]
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
