Did you paint that iminuvaping? That looks incredibly clean. I love the look.
Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod
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Did you paint that iminuvaping? That looks incredibly clean. I love the look.
Ok Ty lets see if this works. Tell me if you can see this!
If you can't see it, don't miss it. Check it out. Here's the URL
https://flic.kr/p/r2VFcr
-Mark
Edit: cause I cant! It shows a broken picture.. sometimes my phone just sucks though..
Here you go Mark
mod graffiti is looking good.
I did, and thank you. That's exactly the look I was going for. I'm really liking the way it turned out.
I used rust oleum for the body and top and poly on ring and button. Then a couple of coats of the poly on body and top once paint dried for durability.
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okay, this may be a dumb / cheap question, but the parts list, can I not source most of the nuts, washers, o rings etc at lowes or home depot???
Just asking, because i dont see paying for a pack of 100 for something I need 2 of to be very economical, especially when i have to add shipping to each vendor...
So, did anyone here source most of the hardware from a local b&m??
Just asking, because i dont see paying for a pack of 100 for something I need 2 of to be very economical, especially when i have to add shipping to each vendor...
So, did anyone here source most of the hardware from a local b&m??
I found some of the parts at my local ACE hardware store. They don't have a good selection of very small parts but I think it is still better than the big box stores. A hobby shop with RC models would also be a good place.
I had to file the 6-32 nut thinner to get it to fit correctly. Some parts such as the copper rod you can substitute thick (16 gauge) copper wire. The solder lugs will be a challenge. You might be able to cut some out of copper sheet. I am sure you can do it if you are ingenious.
Best of luck.
I had to file the 6-32 nut thinner to get it to fit correctly. Some parts such as the copper rod you can substitute thick (16 gauge) copper wire. The solder lugs will be a challenge. You might be able to cut some out of copper sheet. I am sure you can do it if you are ingenious.
Best of luck.
So as I am taking my time with painting and sealing my Peko parts I got to messing with the FD 510 connector. I have a question though. Since it looks like the small o-ring goes on the screw before it is screwed into the 510 is it of to put an o-ring between the nylon spacer and the 510 body to offset it. The reason I ask is that when I put the o-ring on the screw and screw it together, there is a gap between the atty and the body. I want my atty to be flush to the mod if possible. Is this ok to do?
I run mine with nylon insert backed out a bit to flush my attys. I do not run an oring in that spot and no leaks yet after 2 months of steady use.
Was this answered? Saw a new site that has the parts list up but not available for purchase yet. I would love the mod but agree that tons of shipping and excess nuts and bolts would suck a bit haha.
I skipped out on the o ring in the 510. My attys sit super flush now, just make sure you don't short out. I've had zero problems though. I wasn't down with a 2 or 3mm gap and didn't want to mess with it. So I skipped the o ring.
-Mark
Thank you guys for the answer to my question. I would like to run the o-ring just to be safe not to short out or leak. I have a couple o-rings that will work under the connector and it helped for the atty to sit flush with everything tightened up. That was the only reason I asked....
Glad you got it workin Mike! Are you vapin on that beauty yet?! Your not going to want to put it down, mine is glued to my side. Luckily I haven't had a leak or anything without said o ring. But next time I take apart for any reason I'm going to install it and get a flush connection with it. I soldered my 510- button with 16g wire, and where I soldered to the 510, it had solder built up so much to where after I installed my 510 my arty is ever so slightly crooked. And it does bother me, so when I get time I'm going to tear apart and sand down the solder connection to the 510 and throw an o ring in!
-Mark
-Mark
I got my parts kits and some expendable income (finally) for peko shells. Is the discount code at Sculpteo still good, and if so, what is it again?
I wanna order it fast before the peko money gets repurposed for something like fixing a car or more junk food.
I wanna order it fast before the peko money gets repurposed for something like fixing a car or more junk food.
I believe it's STATEOF3D.
By the way.. I can give you some extra cash towards shell/ buttons, etc if you would like to sell me a parts kit!
-Mark
Should we start an auction? lol
Work in progress ... gotto work on top cap , almost there
That looks awesome!
Turk that looks AWEESSOME! First look at the top I thought it was a Starbucks coffee cup! Brown bottom black cap. Looks great though. I'd keep mine like that.. but I'm sure it'll look great a solid color also.
Nice work.
Care to explain how ya did it?
-Mark
Nice work.
Care to explain how ya did it?
-Mark
I messed up sealing the Sculpto body and need some advise. I did it the garage over cardboard and I think it was too cold. It just looks terrible. Should I strip it with acetone or something? Thanks.
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