?.............Yea, I really use what ever coin is just closest......It really beats a screw driver, because the round edge sits nice in the 510 hole.
A dremel wrench sideways works perfect and a couple are always within hand reach at my desk.
?.............Yea, I really use what ever coin is just closest......It really beats a screw driver, because the round edge sits nice in the 510 hole.
Henry Etta, I run Nupins on all my Geal mods, (I currently have six in rotation) something sounds fishy with your setup,
can you screw the atty on full when the screw is too low to make connection to the pin, so as the atty rests on the 510 or does it get stuck?
Yes, I can screw the Nuppin on and get it flush with the mod & it's solid. then I turn the delrin to make the screw meet the atty (I wasn't doing it this way at first until gdeal suggested it). It'll fire then, but seems weak, like it's still not making a good connection. If I adjust the screw a little higher so that it make a good connection (and hits hard) the Nuppin will screw on, but will pop off if I try to take the top off. I have 2 Nuppins and it does it with both. I just coiled up my Mephisto and it screws on just fine, and hits great. I have taken the peko apart and put it back together many times. The only thing I can figure, after trying all the helpful suggestions I've gotten from this thread, is that this particular FD510 isn't working with the Nuppins.
Just want to say thanks to everyone for taking time to help! You guys are great!
OK, it's not the Peko assembly per se, but a problem with the screw (the 510 insert sounds fine),
Does the device get hot 9especially the fire button while firing when it's weak (screw down with derlin screwed up to the atty)?
Madvapes has a PV 26650 with a 48 continuous amp battery. I believe it is 3500mAh. Not that I would build that low on a peko.Thanks GDeal, ordered... Says delivery will be 3/17... I think I will be good when this one gets done... What seems to be the battery of choice in 26650 nowadays?
My zenith 2.5 works wonderfully on my peko. I do love the ability to make it bottom fed so easily. Some pics may help!I don't want to start an argument, yes Drunk went well beyond to test the 510 and yes this might be just a matter of tolerances or just my 30 years + experience in engineering, but my essential statement stands: The FD510 sucks.
If I take that very same Zenith atty and swap the bottom screw ( love this feature ) and screw it on any other mod, there is no wobble and no connection issue, not even on the REO.
End of rant. I will get this going the way I want, no doubt, but I will look at other options too.
BTW, I used solder wick between button screw and 510 instead of that mini screw/nut. This works perfect, solid connection and perfect flexing.
Cheers
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
I'm really thinking I need a Mephisto. Did you get it from CH? And are they 22mm or smaller?
They seem to only ship to the states. But i guess i can use a forwarding service.Notice:
there's a website selling Peko and GDNA parts for a reasonable price,
Live Wire Mods
Edit:
Full Disclosure - I have nothing to do with this site, and do not make a dime from it
Yeah, their all from Tom. They are a true 22mm. They fit the whole front side of the 18650 Peko perfect. I think I'd sell my Nuppin' or Derringer before I sell any of my Mephisto's. I already let one go a few months ago and now I'm thinking I need to get another to replace it. I just love this atty...
They seem to only ship to the states. But i guess i can use a forwarding service.
Thanks
Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
Notice:
there's a website selling Peko and GDNA parts for a reasonable price,
Live Wire Mods
Edit:
Full Disclosure - I have nothing to do with this site, and do not make a dime from it
Nope, no heat at all. Could the screw be slightly crooked in the delrin? I tapped it so it screws in. It looks straight from the bottom, but from the top, I can't really tell. Looks like it could be slightly off.
The weird thing is, the Mehisto works when I adjust the screw from the top, but it won't fire if I drop the screw first, and adjust it by turning the delrin.
yes sir. we got you!
Is that your shop? Friggin' cool man!
As a stupid newbie do I need to buy anything else for parts when I buy one of the kits?
I guess I'll need a soldering iron but yeah, thanks for doing this.
No, no. Not me. I was just tellin doffy I'd be happy to forward him kits. Sorry. I didn't give much thought as to how that might be perceived.
Please, no one pm me looking for coupon codes.
Although, Gdeal10 wouldn't be a bad idea.
You don't NEED a soldering iron, some have just done it to improve voltage drop or button stiffness, some just are addicted to soldering (looking at you RGLP lol). I built mine solder free, but will eventually learn to solder.Is that your shop? Friggin' cool man!
As a stupid newbie do I need to buy anything else for parts when I buy one of the kits?
I guess I'll need a soldering iron but yeah, thanks for doing this.
I LOVE TO SOLDER EVERYTHINGYou don't NEED a soldering iron, some have just done it to improve voltage drop or button stiffness, some just are addicted to soldering (looking at you RGLP lol). I built mine solder free, but will eventually learn to solder.
Aal,
Rings and Buttons for v1 and v2 are the same. Both V1 and v2 top caps are the same height except for the slight rise around the button in v2. The rise is 1mm. The devices are both the exact same height except for the button riser.
The fire pin screw is 8mm long and with the lower button, the lock mechanism has a tight spec. If your nut isnt fully seated in the the hole in the top cap hole it may not lock. In any case, the easy fix for that is just to shave a 1mm or so off the screw threads. (or the face of the screw.)