There were a couple on the reonauts fb group this weekend i think
Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
There were a couple on the reonauts fb group this weekend i think
There were a couple on the reonauts fb group this weekend i think
I should have done a polished color one...
There were a couple on the reonauts fb group this weekend i think
Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
can someone direct me to the Cliff Notes version please!
So are the builders happy with polished color from sculpteo? I know it's just skin deep but if they are printing them right then no shaping of the outside needs to be done and the color can just be clear coated? I assume they can do Bronco Orange and that sounds pretty damn cool to me. I'm sure I can find some decals somewhere and then just finish it like a plastic model from back when we were kids, I remember color sanding the clear coat to make the edges of the decals disappear. GO LOCAL SPORTS TEAM!
The big solder lug is under the small... shouldn't of had so many beers... I'll switch them. Thanks!
See above....I am always open to make adjustment/tweaks. Thanks for the feedback!
Sound like you need to tighten the 510 brass lug tighter. Hold the top of the 510 with a penny and torque that lug/nut tighter. I find the best way to get a solid connection is to loosen the delrin insulator slightly first. This brings the head of the vented screw down. Then put your atty on and get good compression against the oring and the the top of the 510. Then tighten the delrin to get the screw to meet the atty 510 pin. No leaks, perfect connection every time.
FD classics can be wonky sometimes, but I hear ya, its frustrating when the threads dont line up perfectly.
Glad you enjoyed it Rick. I told you you could do it!!
-Mark
I don't even have a cell phone cuz the stepson run us into debt I let mine go cuz I wasn't under contract.i wont go into full blown detail with the crap my stepson has put us threw but its not been an easy road.only good thing is he will be 18 in aug and its lookin like he will be locked up til then.but we still owe a crapton of money for fines/and all other BS he charged up on our dime!these kids nowdays don't even realize how much they have at their disposal!...mayhaps not the right word but that's how they treat most everything now...disposable!.sucks bigtime and especially for the almost 2 yr old baby girl he has and doesn't pay support on....we do!anyways sorry I got off track here but im looking forward to the white polished body that's on its way the 9th I think.thanks for the encouragement Mark
So I switched the solder lugs and installed the spring. The button is now perfect!
Still having a hell of a time with the 510. All sorts of problems. Maybe the 510 is bad like someone mentioned earlier. The brass ring keeps loosening. If I put the screw far enough down for my atty to screw in properly, it won't fire. If I move it up, I can't screw the atty on. If I screw the atty on, then adjust the screw but turning the nut underneath, the atty gets stuck and turns the whole 510. Right now I have it on there, firing great, but as soon as I take it off, everything will be messed up again. Am I missing something? I will try the 510 I get with my next parts kit and see if it's better.
{snip} Hold the top of the 510 with a penny {snip}
Maybe Gdeal meant use a penny cause not everyone's rich there, Ronnbert!! Haha! Just kidding around.I found out last night a nickel works better for me on the 510 connector. A bit thicker and more metal to grasp when adjusting things.
Took my peko apart last night (again) to tighten up some nuts that have gotten loose somehow. I noticed it wasn't hitting too hard, so I figured it needed some tweaking. The main one I have to fix mostly is the nut on the button above the solder lug. I think I have found a way to fix that though, whenever I adjust button, I put flat head in screw to keep stationary and spin button to adjust throw. Now I know me having to do this is because of the superglue on the threads of the nut in my button, so YMMV.