Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod
- Thread starter gdeal
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QUick question for y'all, I'm starting to get fustrated...
Can't seem to get the vented screw into the 510 far enough to get any of my atties flush. I know I want to leave a tiny space, but I'm looking at a full 1mm gap. I've made sure the 510 is on tight with the threaded brass ring, insulator flush up on the 510, made sure there was no debris in the printed portion. My only theory is that the insulator is a little fat?
Suggestions? BTW I'm putting together both a 26650 and 18650, same issue with both... :/
Thnx
Can't seem to get the vented screw into the 510 far enough to get any of my atties flush. I know I want to leave a tiny space, but I'm looking at a full 1mm gap. I've made sure the 510 is on tight with the threaded brass ring, insulator flush up on the 510, made sure there was no debris in the printed portion. My only theory is that the insulator is a little fat?
Suggestions? BTW I'm putting together both a 26650 and 18650, same issue with both... :/
Thnx
I learned my lesson with the hammertone color,its just to thick and doesn't ever really dry and the ordor NEVER left.time for regular color with no "hammertone type"stuff in it.almost ready to just clear it after I sanded this stupid thing down for the umpteenth time!ugghh.how bout the grunge look of scratchy grey!but it vapes awesome still!
I used Rustoleum textured and it dried fast, no residual fumes and , so far, really tough! I did dust a few coats of spray poly satin over it, too.
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I did use Krylon 1311 first, about 3 light coats. Then 3 coats of the textured, followed by 3 of poly. I chose to use the spray poly instead of brushing because I wanted to preserve the textured surface instead of making it smooth and slick which, to me, defeats the purpose of using a textured paint.
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The trick for mine were to put the vented screw all the way into the 510 and then back out the nylon spacer the vented screw is screwed into about half way, then thread your atty onto the device. At this point you would screw the nylon spacer back into the 510 while checking connectivity as you are doing it a little at a time until you have a connection. Be sure to give it just that extra little tighten to lock it in place though. I have found that when I get mine set up the atty is pretty much married to that device. Just keep in mind the nylon spacer that screws into the 510 doesn't have to be screwed in all the way...
If you find at some time you want to switch your atty's out this is what I have done and it is quick and painless.... Loosen the nut under the nylon spacer, loosen the nylon spacer, (that relieves the pressure on the atty), unscrew your atty, then put the new atty on and tighten the nylon spacer and hex nut... Be sure to check connectivity before tightening the hex nut though...
I found that out when I switched attys for the heck of it. I set my #1 Peko up for my Derringer and decided to try my Freakshow mini on it. It worked out fine and even went to work with it. I then noticed the atty had over 1mm gap between the atty and Peko cap. I switched it back. I didn't feel like trying to make the adjustments. I'll just keep each Peko set up for a particular favorite atty.
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On the subject of paint odor, D_J coats his with a few coats of poly, which by the way seems to be a very hard durable finish. But it was a couple of weeks until that "new paint" odor was completely gone from my Peko.
I set my insulator height to fit my atty with the shortest 510 (lancia)and I just live with a small gap if I put a longer 510 atty on the peko. I don't switch attys often though.
Last time I had my insulator out I put an oring on it before threading it back in. It helps it stay put better when I am tightening the vented screw nut.
My 2c
Your problem is stated in what you said, your white delrin is flush up to the bottom of your 510.. to get an atty flush you need to loosen your white delrin a good 2 mm or so, loosen the brass nut under the delrin also. Then screw your atty on and get it sitting where you want it, then tighten the white delrin snug, then the brass nut! That'll do it! All 3 of my Pekos (in a few days 4 pekos!) Have flush sitting atties and the delrin is all backed out about 1mm and tightened
Sorry, too late to the party... I answered marks question before I scrolled down!
-Mark
Thanks for the help on the 510 y'all. Finally have my 26650 up and running! Loving it so far. Hope to get my other 26650 & 18650 running tonight.
Crappy phone pic, but I love seeing it next to a Grand! Not much bigger at all
Crappy phone pic, but I love seeing it next to a Grand! Not much bigger at all
Thanks gdeal! I used inks & clear coat krylon first, of course.
krylon first, of course.
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Thanks for the help on the 510 y'all. Finally have my 26650 up and running! Loving it so far. Hope to get my other 26650 & 18650 running tonight.
Crappy phone pic, but I love seeing it next to a Grand! Not much bigger at all
Looks great. Nice job!
im sure I put way to much paint on it and idk maybe the light coat would work better but at this point im frustrated with it.but I do have plenty of a grey base now that the dusting may look pretty good if I try that....1 more time and hope it works..lol.i had put a few coats of clear on it then when I went to check their was a lifting of paint on the nosquonk side on the back...was soooo bummed but other than that it was gorgeous!!I just couldn't leave it lifted though so strip it again.wow ima wear out the thing from sanding and painting so much!1 thing is for sure....im no painter!dang why cant we dress these up with a hammer...that I know how to use perfectly!!
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