Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

[kingdal]

Well, I took my time and did the solder mod. After a few weeks, I finally got my Peko done! Thanks, Gdeal for thinking up this great mod!

One question: after I take a few drags, when I take out the battery and touch the firing pin, the brass pin feels very hot. So I assume there must be quite a bit of resistance through it. Is it normal for it to get that hot? If not, how would I go about reducing that heat?

Thanks everyone!

 

[drmarble]

I get no heating of the firing pin. Maybe the nut holding the solder ring to the screw head isn't tight. Or perhaps some grease on the battery or screw face. Those are the only two places where current flows in that area. Everything else is solid. Maybe the screw is set too low. If it is just barely touching the battery all the time it would generate heat just sitting there with the battery installed. A little bit of current would flow all the time. Just turn the fire button clockwise to get a little more space and button travel.
Hope you can find the source of the heat. Enjoy your peko.

 

[junquedujour]

Does anyone have an illustration of the magnet installation for the button throw?
Pictures say a thousand words to my old brain!

i don't have an illustration, but i did take a pic today before i screwed the button on.
i used a black marker (sharpie) and made a small mark on each of the opposing sides before i placed them - less chance of rework. i do that for the case magnets also - except i mark the sides that attract.
you can kinda see the marks in the pic.

once they are positioned, i grabbed the cap, with the very tip of my finger overlying the underside of the cap to keep the magnet from flipping then just screw the cap down on the screw.

 

[kingdal]

Junque, what gauge wire you using for the switch?

 

[junquedujour]

Junque, what gauge wire you using for the switch?

18ga-silicone coated

 

[SeanMoore]

Hey so I'm pretty slack when it comes to using noalox and such... yeah, it is what it is.

Tonight I figured out that pencil erasers will clean the contacts on a peko just fine.

 

[BlueSnake]

Hey so I'm pretty slack when it comes to using noalox and such... yeah, it is what it is.

Tonight I figured out that pencil erasers will clean the contacts on a peko just fine.

Just a friendly FYI. Maintenance is not the place you want to be "slack" when it comes to your mods.

 

[SeanMoore]

Just a friendly FYI. Maintenance is not the place you want to be "slack" when it comes to your mods.

Oh, bah! These things don't need conductive juice, a battery isn't going to last more than a year in a rotation of 4 and I can replace the contacts if I need to. I don't use no-ox right now but I might have to if I like the DNA version, those deans connectors look like they could be trouble.

 

[Rossum]

Deans connectors do OK for me. I've got one set in daily use for 9 months now on a 30 and finally had to clean them. A second set in a 40 is at about 6 months and has yet to see any maintenance. I think it's important to set up the mod so that the connectors engage fully. That usually involves a bit of sanding.

 

[SeanMoore]

Deans connectors do OK for me....That usually involves a bit of sanding.

Sanding of the printed parts once the connectors are in place so they engage fully? I'm OK with that, I have a good grasp of the spatial needs of parts like what I've seen in the build doc.

On another note, you've built more than a couple of these... would you order them dyed or just raw and plan on sanding to fit + finishing? I like my dyed peko just fine but I didn't have to modify any of the parts at all. With the additional complexity of the DNA it seems like I might have to modify to my exact build and then that'd mess up a dye job.

 

[Rossum]

All my shells have been dyed while all my DNA internals have been white. I agree, PeKos generally don't need much if any hand fitting, while DNAs might. As for the details of DNA fitting and assembly, that, it's would be better if we take that to the appropriate thread.

 

[SeanMoore]

whoops. It was late. I'm OK with it though, thanks.

 

[dethnode]

So, a little off topic, but since switching to bottom feeding, I am going through e juice like crazy....


Considering getting into DIY, but was curious, anyone have any places they reccommend for getting 120ml bottles on the cheap???

 

[rudy4653]

DIY route is THE way to go! I priced flavored juices almost $1.00 per ml. I have been DIY for over a year now at a cost of about $.04 per ml!!!!
Check out My Freedom Smokes or Nude Nicotine websites for DIY nicotine, PG, VG, flavorings, plenty of bottles and accessories as well. I order from MFS and have had great luck. Way cheaper! Very easy to make your own as there are quite a few juice calculators you can download for recipe ratios.Select nicotine strength, preferred PG/VG ratio and get some flavoring and just add drops of flavoring to taste.

 

[rudy4653]

Got my shipping notice for another Peko today! This time I ordered from Sculpteo. My first one was from Shape ways so I will be curious to see the difference. Ordering time about the same so far, about 10 days but I should wait until I get in my hands!

 

[pwheeler]

That's great, Rudy! Sculpteo does some quality work. My Shapeways print came out great, too. I haven't painted that one yet, still working on getting my Sculpteo print together. I still don't know what happened with my last Sculpteo order, but at least I have it now. I have 4 Pekos now. More to come later. I need some place to park all my Chowder attys!

 

[muzichead]

Handcheck..... This is a killer combo....

 

[dethnode]

What kind of atty is that????

 

[muzichead]

That is the Samurai Bonsai. Great little atty. Very good air flow and produces great flavor. I'd say it is better than the Derringer in both departments...

 

[dethnode]

does that come bottom fed or did you mod it?