Problem with my mod

[sam_d]

I have no idea what they cost, I won it in a contest here! Its' variable wattage (only pre-sets, on a ring that clicked!) was the main reason I stepped up from eGo/CE4 devices!

I think they were about £100 or so. But I can't remember how much the full size one cost so I might be remembering the full size being 100 and the min ABIT less but it was an expensive mod when It came out.

Well done for winning it when was it that happened n it was on this forum that you won it?? That's pretty amazing dude

 

[somdcomputerguy]

Well done for winning it when was it that happened n it was on this forum that you won it??

Thanks. Yep it was on this forum. Back in 2015. I joined this forum in late December 2014, and it was in less than 6 mos. that I won that. After I got it, it was a week or so before I regularly used it, because I just liked to look at it in its' case. It was my first regulated mod. It was certainly smaller than its' big brother, so maybe it cost less but I have no idea (or can't remember, which is more likely..) how much either one of them cost.

 

[bombastinator]

It's just a standard parallel regulated mod and the button is a a 4 leg through hold mounted button just a case of de-solder replace and re-solder I just don't have the means to do thes anymore, that's why I was thinking of finding a place that repairs Xbox n playstations n just take them the board. But it's not the tempest I'm trying to find out about it's the xion a duel battery mod

I get the microsoldering issue. I’ve got primal tremor and now my hands shake. It’s not actually Parkinson’s but it does look like it. I’ve actually got to use exercise wrist weights to kind of lock things in place to minimize it. The dual battery mod is one of those “full screen” mods so the electronics are going to be more complicated. If it’s thinking the battery is dead but it’s not it either a bad setting (which I don’t know how to fix but the manual might) or some sort of physical damage, possibly liquid, to the pcb (just get a new one. It’s going to be much more complicated, and the repair cost will eclipse the new cost) or the battery connection itself. So diagnosis is basically identical (though the results are hopefully different) which is why I said “same drill”. You might luck out and the battery area is corroded or something which can be fixed with a file. If it’s pcb damage though my hopes are quite low.

 

[sam_d]

I get the microsoldering issue. I’ve got primal tremor and now my hands shake. It’s not actually Parkinson’s but it does look like it. I’ve actually got to use exercise wrist weights to kind of lock things in place to minimize it. The dual battery mod is one of those “full screen” mods so the electronics are going to be more complicated. If it’s thinking the battery is dead but it’s not it either a bad setting (which I don’t know how to fix but the manual might) or some sort of physical damage, possibly liquid, to the pcb (just get a new one. It’s going to be much more complicated, and the repair cost will eclipse the new cost) or the battery connection itself. So diagnosis is basically identical (though the results are hopefully different) which is why I said “same drill”. You might luck out and the battery area is corroded or something which can be fixed with a file. If it’s pcb damage though my hopes are quite low.

Unfortunately it's not the contacts I tent to keep them pretty damn clean, seeing as I started vaping with mech mods many years ago so it just a natural habit to keep on top of cleaning contacts and 510 threads. But if I'm being honest when ever I re-wick my RDA I glow the coils and then run them under a very light trickle of water, but it does now and again get on the mod so I'm guessing some kind of water damage, fingers crossed when I find my small star drivers to take it apart some corrosion is causing a short n needs cleaning up, worst case it's totally dead due to water ingress

 

[bombastinator]

Unfortunately it's not the contacts I tent to keep them pretty damn clean, seeing as I started vaping with mech mods many years ago so it just a natural habit to keep on top of cleaning contacts and 510 threads. But if I'm being honest when ever I re-wick my RDA I glow the coils and then run them under a very light trickle of water, but it does now and again get on the mod so I'm guessing some kind of water damage, fingers crossed when I find my small star drivers to take it apart some corrosion is causing a short n needs cleaning up, worst case it's totally dead due to water ingress

You don’t rewick?! But that’s the cheapest thing. I rewick more or less daily. More often than once a week. I use cotton though. I take it you are using something else, or our definition of rewick is different. You might have meant recoil. I only change a coil when it breaks. The cotton wick is less than a penny though.

Here’s hoping you can fix your electronics. Worth a look I guess. My hopes are not high though

 

[sam_d]

You don’t rewick?! But that’s the cheapest thing. I rewick more or less daily. More often than once a week. I use cotton though. I take it you are using something else, or our definition of rewick is different. You might have meant recoil. I only change a coil when it breaks. The cotton wick is less than a penny though.

Here’s hoping you can fix your electronics. Worth a look I guess. My hopes are not high though

Re-wick as in pull old cotton out glow the coils make sure there glowing nice, no hot spots and then fresh cotton hence the name re-wick as apposed to new coils/re-coil

 

[bombastinator]

Re-wick as in pull old cotton out glow the coils make sure there glowing nice, no hot spots and then fresh cotton hence the name re-wick as apposed to new coils/re-coil

Yeah, I do that often. Cotton wick turns to ash eventually. If your device still draws juice it must taste awful. The ability to rewick is the prime reason to use rbas in the first place. It’s a cleanliness and safety thing. There’s probably a mass of black goo in there. I don’t often do it daily, but more than once a week. I’ve heard of people doing it daily. If you can’t handle rewicking, there are coil cartridges and pods. The coil cartridge tosses the coil as well every time, and a pod tosses the wick, coil, and juice tank. Keeping those safe to use is what makes them pricier. You could theoretically use a pod or a cartridge forever, but they don’t stay safe for very long. Neither will an rba of course. Those “estimated times” for pods or cartridges are practically never longer than a week, and they’re pushed out as far as possible to make them seem to have lower continuing cost. Really it’s all the same though. “Expected life” is just marketing.
when I change a wick I dryburn, which is helpful to release baked on stuff, after brushing off the built up cruft. Then I do it again and wash it. It gets the last of the carbon out and helps prep for a fresh wick. If i screw up and glow the coil orange I’ve lost the ability to accurately measure with temp control and I replace the coil. The point behind cotton wick is it is a fuse. You burn it away and the device is supposed to stop working. You must have a wick made out of pure carbon that for whatever reason is still working though. It no longer acts as a fuse, as carbon has a much higher burning point, so you may be overheating, and all the horror stuff the ads talk about might actually happen to you. You might be able to get away with it if you use temp control, as that is an arguably more accurate thing than a 451f fuse, but it’s dicey. I use fresh wick AND a temp control mod myself. Sort of a “belt and suspenders” approach. I can’t always make temp control work right and it requires more frequent changing of the coil. Temp control gets less and less accurate over time because of metal changes in the coil.

 

[bombastinator]

A day or two later and I rewicked. This is an example of a wick that would still work, but shouldn’t. You want to change your wick before. It burns through. See the carbonization on the sides? It’s burnt. When I pulled it apart there was still som wick left. About half had burned away though.

 

[sam_d]

View attachment 1015933A day or two later and I rewicked. This is an example of a wick that would still work, but shouldn’t. You want to change your wick before. It burns through. See the carbonization on the sides? It’s burnt. When I pulled it apart there was still som wick left. About half had burned away though.

Dude what the feck

 

[sam_d]

Dudes that's after 2days.
There my coils after at least a week.
N all I vape are coil killer liquids these are known for gumming up your coils and killing off your cotton

 

[bombastinator]

Dude what the feck

?

 

[bombastinator]

Ah. Somehow I got “I never change my cotton” out of that. Not sure how. Let’s call that pic “what happens when you get a dry hit”

 

[dennisdreyer]

I Wish i could buy in the Same shops as you guys do... I now buy my stuff Online from tabakstore and there i can only buy elfbars etc. but not those mods.

 

[sam_d]

I Wish i could buy in the Same shops as you guys do... I now buy my stuff Online from tabakstore and there i can only buy elfbars etc. but not those mods.

How come where are you located

 

[sam_d]

?

Yeh that was a mistake wasn't meant for hear lol

 

[bombastinator]

I Wish i could buy in the Same shops as you guys do... I now buy my stuff Online from tabakstore and there i can only buy elfbars etc. but not those mods.

Brick&mortar stores won’t carry much except disposables. I’ve ordered company direct and gotten stuff. Importation laws vary by nation though.