Protank 2 Microcoil Vapor Issues

[waterjuice]

So I did 8 wraps and I got better results than 12 wraps...

Better vapor production but still no where near Rip Trippers video xp

Have to mess around a bit more.

 

[waterjuice]

Yeah i saturated it and seen that it created vapor but when Rip did it his firing produced more, before the assembly

Im 70% satisfied with the vapor production, flavor is awesome tho.
I feel like im so close! lol

 

[KurrptSenate]

crap

i just ordered 32. i should have gotten 30 or even 28 to do this.

 

[TastyKakes]

I use 28GA Kanthal A1 btw. 12 wraps 1.8 ohms. Does that sound correct? with a 5/64 drill bit

Hopefully someone else can chime in on that one - I only use 30 gauge kanthal right now cuz I'm working on a regulated device.

 

[Sthur]

I use 30 gauge microcoil with 8 wraps on 1/16 drill bit. I ended up at 1.8 ohms with boiled cotton wick. Using plastic cup upside down. Works great. Was my first pt coil rebuild too.

 

[Singlespeed]

I coiled mine with 7 wraps of 30 gauge on cottons nipped pretty short. NR-R-NR setup. Reads 1.2ohm. Flavor's plenty but less heat. Might go 1.0ohm

 

[waterjuice]

I used 28g with 8 wraps and it works good!
Flavors good, vapor is good.

Im still going to try to make 12 wraps work to see the difference but right now im relaxing vaping on 8wraps

 

[RubyRoo]

I used 28g with 8 wraps and it works good!
Flavors good, vapor is good.

Im still going to try to make 12 wraps work to see the difference but right now im relaxing vaping on 8wraps

Nice to see that you are finding what you are looking for! You can use 32 gauge on a micro coil Protank rebuild no problem as well and it heats up a little faster. You get a teen-tiny coil, but it vapes like a dream (with one tiny flavor wick on top). I do 6 wraps on a 1/16 drill bit with boiled organic cotton (turns out around 1.9 Ohms). I'm more of a flavor chaser than a cloud chaser, but the build does work. Also have tried 30 gauge on a 5/64 but find that the wrap touches the top post too easily, so I moved down to the smaller drill bit with great success. Remember, if you are looking for clouds, a real RBA is the way to go.

 

[mekc57]

I tried micro coils with cotton a couple of times with little sucsess then I found a thread on vertical micro coils and I love them! 16/15 wrap coils on a 1/16 drill bit about 1.9 - 2.0 ohms and boiled organic cotton packed around the outside of the coils. No wicks to burn up. the air flows right up from the hole in the bottom, through the middle of the coil

 

[MacTechVpr]

Vapor production also goes hand in hand with air flow, and there is not much you can do to get more air flow without an airflow controller or modifying you Zmax's air flow channels, or the base of the protank and center pin of the head on a Protank2. Another thing, why oh why do people use 28ga or larger wire in a Kanger style head when using a regulated device, that is a another factor of your vapor production, 28ga at that many wraps takes to dang long to heat up, thus why you are having to crank it up to 11.5watts. Step the wire thickness down to 30ga maximum, plus you also have to remember, look at what device Rip Trippers usually has his atomizing devices attached to, a Phazed DNA20, also have to remember he has most his atomizer attachements modified for maximum output for high power output and doing lung hits most times during his demonstrations. Wanting to fog up a room with a Protank design, find a Protank1 someone doesn't want anymore, its airflow is far better than the Protank2 which is more restricted, and it can be done because I have done it, but only with a Protank1 using a 0.7ohm nano-coil head with a cotton wick on a SmokTech Natural and SmokTech Magneto, both mechanicals, using MNKE 18650s with a resetable fuse on the battery, but still I am not getting anywhere near the clouds Rip Trippers is doing.

A properly built 30ga micro or nano coil in a protank, should by my experience produce triple the flavor of a stock head, twice the throat hit, and twice the vapor of a stock head in an Evod, T3, UniTank, or Protank2, Davide, or other such device using a Kanger style BCC head, Protank1 and possibly a Tatroe or Davide tank might reach the Protank1 with four times the flavor, twice the throat hit, and triple the vapor, but as I said above to achieve that you are needing a sub-ohm micro or nano coil on a Mechanical, going that route, cloud chasing, better start doing your research into RDAs, battery chemistry and safety, ohms law, and sub-ohm safety, you'll not get massive vapor out of a Glassomizer/Clearomizer class bottom tank system, they are not really designed to be fog machines.

Outstanding post IM. On six months, fast learner and background in tech industry. This rips on every point. I've been testing every kind of device available and building a road map of resistance results. The Protank is a persnickety device requiring very precise builds to get the best out of it. No doubt Trippers did his homework…but those not yet immersed in juice don't realize it's theater. I applaud him because he is building excitement among vapers for the contact coil. And, properly built, that is the way through most problems on clearo's.

I picked up your thank you to beatitude for the batt tables. Good find on your threads. If there's an expanded list, I'd love to know, as there have been a great many newcomers to the high drain/high amp world. I'm mostly standardized on AW and CGR18650CH but seldom need to dwell much above 8W to get both the flavor and vapor I need, nor low Ω either on drips. Why so much searching on this forum for the edges of the envelope, I don't know, when so many of the peaks are right in the middle.

Have a great day and good luck!

 

[MacTechVpr]

I use 30 gauge microcoil with 8 wraps on 1/16 drill bit. I ended up at 1.8 ohms with boiled cotton wick. Using plastic cup upside down. Works great. Was my first pt coil rebuild too.

S you got the ticket on a great vape. Make sure you're low in the slot your end turns are tight into opposing legs at termination and you're good to go. I've posted some remarks on this thread on how to easily make the wind tight. You might want to take a peek…

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html

Specifically…

Torsion wind of a contact coil...http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ank-microcoil-discussion-22.html#post11425979

Good luck!



p.s. Let us know your end resistance.

 

[Hivemind]

I have a quick question if you don't mind.
I just got into rebuilding my Protank II coils this past week.
I bought a 3-feet of 28-Gauge from kidney puncher and used it all in about a day of miserable failure lol.
I was wrapping it around a 1.4mm precision screwdriver because that is the only one out of the set that will fit in between the base.
I made one seemingly successful microcoil, but I noticed something wierd.
It sits around 1.6-1.7 ohms but if i screw my tank on snug it drops the coil into sub ohm territory in which my lavatube v2.5 will NOT fire below 1.2ohm. Do I have a short somewhere?
What is causing this?
Thanks in advance!
EDIT: I have 25ft of 28-Gauge on its way. Snagged it cheap for $5 free shipping

 

[MacTechVpr]

I have a quick question if you don't mind.
I just got into rebuilding my Protank II coils this past week.
I bought a 3-feet of 28-Gauge from kidney puncher and used it all in about a day of miserable failure lol.
I was wrapping it around a 1.4mm precision screwdriver because that is the only one out of the set that will fit in between the base.
I made one seemingly successful microcoil, but I noticed something wierd.
It sits around 1.6-1.7 ohms but if i screw my tank on snug it drops the coil into sub ohm territory in which my lavatube v2.5 will NOT fire below 1.2ohm. Do I have a short somewhere?
What is causing this?
Thanks in advance!
EDIT: I have 25ft of 28-Gauge on its way. Snagged it cheap for $5 free shipping

At ~1.6Ω initial I'd surmise your wrap was fairly loose. That is to say a hand wind and your leg termination had too much room to wander when you set. So your initial read may have been higher than actual, your subsequent read reflected the short. There really can't be any incidental contact of either leg lead and the only way to avert that and the bad performance after is to build tight. I mean we're going to go through the effort we might as well reap the reward, right? I think you get my meaning hive, I just hate to see people struggle. Only thing I know how to recommend is to get it as right as rain.

If you've read the thread you know I'm recommending tension winding so we don't have to worry so much about the coil itself. It's formed and staying that way after it's locked in place and pulsed to reinforce the wind adhesion after termination. That's the issue here, you want to pay particularly close attention to the direction the final turn is pointing on both sides and terminate those legs in those respective directions at the grommet. So you have legs terminating opposed, yes; but, specifically in the direction they come off the wind with tension applied by hand or with a utensil like a forceps to finish tightening the end turns as you insert the grommet, then pos pin.

I saw a video today of a smart young man, well done, demonstrating how he had carefully terminated the legs directly opposite. That's swell. Problem was they were lined up along the axis of the coil. So my question is — did he bother to check if he had crossed them as he did it. If you understand this, you've got it. You understand why that direction and tightness is absolutely essential. And most of the instruction I see on this forum is only half the story.

How are we, newcomers, supposed to be able to do this a piece of pie at a time?

More details on this and tension winding on…

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/463771-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html

I'd suggest if the wire you're getting is not spooled, to try and find something to spool it on from which you can feed it comfortably. Also to stretch any bends or folds which might bind it during a wrap. Rolling it out first on a feed spool will help minimize that possibility when you do wind eventually. You'll see my other suggestions on wick and diameters on the above threads as well.

It's a patient process the first few times hive. But thereafter as you gain some muscle memory yourself, it will start to become second nature and you'll be hitting resistance targets with greater ease. Then if you've get the tight build thing down that proper coil will give you in all likelihood weeks of reliable service.

Post or PM me if need be, and

Good luck.

 

[Flavored]

I have a quick question if you don't mind.
I just got into rebuilding my Protank II coils this past week.
I bought a 3-feet of 28-Gauge from kidney puncher and used it all in about a day of miserable failure lol.
I was wrapping it around a 1.4mm precision screwdriver because that is the only one out of the set that will fit in between the base.
I made one seemingly successful microcoil, but I noticed something wierd.
It sits around 1.6-1.7 ohms but if i screw my tank on snug it drops the coil into sub ohm territory in which my lavatube v2.5 will NOT fire below 1.2ohm. Do I have a short somewhere?
What is causing this?
Thanks in advance!
EDIT: I have 25ft of 28-Gauge on its way. Snagged it cheap for $5 free shipping

Check the ends of the wires where they poke out of the head at the pin/grommet. When I've seen a short while screwing the head on, it has because one of those ends wasn't snipped off quite right and eventually contacted the threads as it was screwed in. Use toenail clippers to cut them off close.

 

[bosun]

100 feet of Kanthal $5.48 shipped! Have done business with them before and very quick shipment..

Kanthal Wire 30 Gauge RW0107 - 100 FT 0.39oz Series A-1 Resistance AWG

Various gauges available..

 

[MacTechVpr]

Check the ends of the wires where they poke out of the head at the pin/grommet. When I've seen a short while screwing the head on, it has because one of those ends wasn't snipped off quite right and eventually contacted the threads as it was screwed in. Use toenail clippers to cut them off close.

You know you were dead on here flavored on the resistance dive as a likely pos short. I took the opportunity to add to this thread and steer the convo to the general Protank Microcoil disc. Lots of talk there, lots on how devastating hangers are to the vape. Hey, thanks for taking up the slack. I didn't pick up the question posed to me. Appreciate that.

Good luck and take care.

 

[Agamer]

Yeah i saturated it and seen that it created vapor but when Rip did it his firing produced more, before the assembly

Im 70% satisfied with the vapor production, flavor is awesome tho.
I feel like im so close! lol

I know I'm way late to this party but something that I heard a while ago will give some perspective. It may sound silly but take a vid of you vaping your setup and you will see a bit of a thicker cloud when on video. It has something to do with the way the camera picks up light. Try that and see if you see more on the vid than irl.

 

[PaulaProc]

I too, use 32ga for my protanks.

 

[Zphinx]

Vapor production also goes hand in hand with air flow, and there is not much you can do to get more air flow without an airflow controller or modifying you Zmax's air flow channels, or the base of the protank and center pin of the head on a Protank2. Another thing, why oh why do people use 28ga or larger wire in a Kanger style head when using a regulated device, that is a another factor of your vapor production, 28ga at that many wraps takes to dang long to heat up, thus why you are having to crank it up to 11.5watts. Step the wire thickness down to 30ga maximum, plus you also have to remember, look at what device Rip Trippers usually has his atomizing devices attached to, a Phazed DNA20, also have to remember he has most his atomizer attachements modified for maximum output for high power output and doing lung hits most times during his demonstrations. Wanting to fog up a room with a Protank design, find a Protank1 someone doesn't want anymore, its airflow is far better than the Protank2 which is more restricted, and it can be done because I have done it, but only with a Protank1 using a 0.7ohm nano-coil head with a cotton wick on a SmokTech Natural and SmokTech Magneto, both mechanicals, using MNKE 18650s with a resetable fuse on the battery, but still I am not getting anywhere near the clouds Rip Trippers is doing.

A properly built 30ga micro or nano coil in a protank, should by my experience produce triple the flavor of a stock head, twice the throat hit, and twice the vapor of a stock head in an Evod, T3, UniTank, or Protank2, Davide, or other such device using a Kanger style BCC head, Protank1 and possibly a Tatroe or Davide tank might reach the Protank1 with four times the flavor, twice the throat hit, and triple the vapor, but as I said above to achieve that you are needing a sub-ohm micro or nano coil on a Mechanical, going that route, cloud chasing, better start doing your research into RDAs, battery chemistry and safety, ohms law, and sub-ohm safety, you'll not get massive vapor out of a Glassomizer/Clearomizer class bottom tank system, they are not really designed to be fog machines.

I think I have not much more to add to that, its also important after building your coil and placing the cotton wick into it to prime it. Then let it sit there for about 10 min.

Next, try to go from 6.5 to 11 each level up you should take a couple of puffs. Wait about 30 seconds and up the level of power one notch.

 

[Zphinx]

I know I'm way late to this party but something that I heard a while ago will give some perspective. It may sound silly but take a vid of you vaping your setup and you will see a bit of a thicker cloud when on video. It has something to do with the way the camera picks up light. Try that and see if you see more on the vid than irl.

Absolutely awesome observation. Why didn't I come to that conclusion earlier. My wife is a prof. Photographer, and she confirmed your theory right of the point. Light + Smoke + Video lens = EXTENSIVE SMOKE in any video, if you do not use a Lens filter