On a new Protank 2, what does it mean if I'm hearing bubbles when I draw, and I even got the very sweet taste of the actual liquid through the mouth piece? The liquid is 100% VG if that matters toward the answer. Everything seems properly tightened.
Protank 2 question on bubbles
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a gurgling sound plus liquid traces in the drip tip beyond condensation is a sign of flooding. Thats where there is more liquid in the coil area, then it can vaporize. The most common reason's for that are inhaling too strongly(most common amongst newer vapers), too thin of a liquid like 100%pg but 100%vg is thicker and would slow down wicking to the coils.
protanks are fussy till you learn to rebuild em, and even then I have issues with protanks (ptII and an Aero) than Ive ever had with protank minis.
if you look where the wick is poking out on the coil head, it needs to FILL that area its poking out of, it cant just be a round wick in a square notch..it has to fill the corners.
thats why i got nice results w/ sterile cvs cotton balls..you can use a very tiny amount and it will stretch to fill up the gaps.
Info on rebuilding kanger heads is in one of my blog entries, the oldest one.
if you look where the wick is poking out on the coil head, it needs to FILL that area its poking out of, it cant just be a round wick in a square notch..it has to fill the corners.
thats why i got nice results w/ sterile cvs cotton balls..you can use a very tiny amount and it will stretch to fill up the gaps.
Info on rebuilding kanger heads is in one of my blog entries, the oldest one.
sounds like its flooding.. that can happen for a few reasons but the most common reason 'I' ever get flooding on my PT2 is if the airflow is too restricted and the vacuum from me drawing so hard on it pulls too much fluid out of the tank.
Best thing I've found to do is take the coil head out and make sure the little rubber insulator you can see between the positive pin and the main part of the head isn't bulged out..if it is very gently and carefully pull on the positive pin and only back it out enough so that the insulator isn't bulged.. then put it back in and when you screw it back onto your device, screw it on till you feel it start to contact.. then maybe another 1/8th to 1/4 turn. The thing is if you tighten a PT down too tight your positive connection on your device will push up the positive pin on the coil head and squeeze the insulation out of the groove it's supposed to sit in.. and that restricts/blocks the airflow you would normally be getting from your 510 connection.. so if you crank down on it and get it nice and snug.. the dang thing won't work right.
I just thought of something much more simple that could cause it.. IF the coil head isn't screwed into the base very snug, juice can leak out and end up turning your air passages into a straw.
so basically if your draw seems really tight.. probably first answer.. if not then it could be second answer (or something else).. Hope that helps =)
Best thing I've found to do is take the coil head out and make sure the little rubber insulator you can see between the positive pin and the main part of the head isn't bulged out..if it is very gently and carefully pull on the positive pin and only back it out enough so that the insulator isn't bulged.. then put it back in and when you screw it back onto your device, screw it on till you feel it start to contact.. then maybe another 1/8th to 1/4 turn. The thing is if you tighten a PT down too tight your positive connection on your device will push up the positive pin on the coil head and squeeze the insulation out of the groove it's supposed to sit in.. and that restricts/blocks the airflow you would normally be getting from your 510 connection.. so if you crank down on it and get it nice and snug.. the dang thing won't work right.
I just thought of something much more simple that could cause it.. IF the coil head isn't screwed into the base very snug, juice can leak out and end up turning your air passages into a straw.
so basically if your draw seems really tight.. probably first answer.. if not then it could be second answer (or something else).. Hope that helps =)
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Thanks for the replies. I replaced the wick/coil assembly (whatever the correct name is for it) with the other one that comes in the Protank 2 box, cleaned up all the flooding, reassembled, and it seems ok.
On the original wick/coil assembly that was giving the bubbles (I guess gurgling is a better word for it), I noticed that there is no wick visible on one side. Maybe that's the problem, and they cut the wick too short at the factory so it allowed too much liquid to flow?
My liquid level was maybe 1/4 of the tank, and I was just reading on another thread that low liquid level can sometimes cause problems. Not sure I understand why that is, but as a general rule, should you never let the level go below about 1/3? 1/2?
PS please excuse my use of the wrong terminology, I probably botched my description, but I'll get the lingo with time. Are there any photos of a protank 2 that labels the names of all the parts?
On the original wick/coil assembly that was giving the bubbles (I guess gurgling is a better word for it), I noticed that there is no wick visible on one side. Maybe that's the problem, and they cut the wick too short at the factory so it allowed too much liquid to flow?
My liquid level was maybe 1/4 of the tank, and I was just reading on another thread that low liquid level can sometimes cause problems. Not sure I understand why that is, but as a general rule, should you never let the level go below about 1/3? 1/2?
PS please excuse my use of the wrong terminology, I probably botched my description, but I'll get the lingo with time. Are there any photos of a protank 2 that labels the names of all the parts?
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