Protank 2 simply DOES NOT WORK! Please help!

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Rickajho

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the protanks have these problems alot.

Rather a lot of people have these problems with ProTanks.

First, quit staring at charts and stop getting lost in the shoulds. A Kanger coil works at it's correct voltage, not what "the chart" says it should work at. If you can get past, OMG, a 2.5 ohm coil actually working at a feeble 3.4 volts there is hope for you. If you can't accept that possibility keep burning crud onto Kanger coils starting them at 4+ volts, ruining them in under two minutes, and move on to another device.

I won't even use 1.8 ohm coils because :shock: even 3.2 volts can be too much for a new 1.8 ohm coil. There is no room to adjust voltage down with the 1.8 ohm coils. Always start a Kanger coil at your lowest available voltage or wattage and only move up as needed to get the vape you are looking for. Don't go by "the chart" or feel sexually inadequate if you manage to get a 2.2 ohm Kanger coil to produce tons of vapor and taste right at a whopping... 3.2 volts. I won't tell anyone.

For the people who still insist that every device is a straight line thing that must conform to a theoretical volts/watts chart you are gonna be disappointed with a lot of devices that refuse to comply. You are also ignoring the non electronic aspects of the design that don't care about electronic theory. Once you have trashed a Kanger coil by starting it at too high a voltage/wattage and burned crud onto the coil the deed has been done - it's gonna taste like crap until you replace the coil or clean it. Once you have burned flavoring components onto the coil your vape is a mixture of burning crud and liquid vapor. You can't reverse the process by dropping the voltage after you do that.

Keep the volts/watts low on these things when you start and only adjust up as needed. Believe it or not - that can work.
 

Snufalupaghus

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Jul 26, 2013
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I've found that with Protanks, there is a great spectrum of reliability with the stock coil heads. Some of mine tend to err on the side of dry, others flood the second the tank is halfway full. The stock heads are ok, but once you start recoiling them yourself, you will be able to tell the difference. I use 3mm silica wick, and 32 gauge kanthal.

IMO, the the Protank 2 and the Mini vape about the same to me. I have yet to get any flooding on my Mini though. There has been some flooding with my Protank 2. (This is the opposite problem that you've been having though.) Anyway, after you fill it up, just remember to give it a few primer puffs every once in awhile so you can keep those wicks wet. In theory, the tanks should vape the same, but they do have a different connection to your device, so the airflow is different as well. This will affect the way they vape, but anecdotally, they vape about the same to me. Good luck!

I re-coil my T3S's with the same wick and gauge wire. Get two ohms with six wraps and one strand of 3mm wick. Perfect, and the flavor really comes out.
 

Snufalupaghus

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Jul 26, 2013
13
4
Odenton, MD
When I get gurgles with the iclear30, I pull the drip tip off, run a qtip up into the drip tip and wipe up any juice sitting on the top of the rubber tip on top of the coil and go back to vaping. An airflow controller really helps as well. They sell them on Alot of websites for like $3.

Thanx! Appreciate the advice.
 

Andy777

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Oct 23, 2013
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Rather a lot of people have these problems with ProTanks.

First, quit staring at charts and stop getting lost in the shoulds. A Kanger coil works at it's correct voltage, not what "the chart" says it should work at. If you can get past, OMG, a 2.5 ohm coil actually working at a feeble 3.4 volts there is hope for you. If you can't accept that possibility keep burning crud onto Kanger coils starting them at 4+ volts, ruining them in under two minutes, and move on to another device.

I won't even use 1.8 ohm coils because :shock: even 3.2 volts can be too much for a new 1.8 ohm coil. There is no room to adjust voltage down with the 1.8 ohm coils. Always start a Kanger coil at your lowest available voltage or wattage and only move up as needed to get the vape you are looking for. Don't go by "the chart" or feel sexually inadequate if you manage to get a 2.2 ohm Kanger coil to produce tons of vapor and taste right at a whopping... 3.2 volts. I won't tell anyone.

For the people who still insist that every device is a straight line thing that must conform to a theoretical volts/watts chart you are gonna be disappointed with a lot of devices that refuse to comply. You are also ignoring the non electronic aspects of the design that don't care about electronic theory. Once you have trashed a Kanger coil by starting it at too high a voltage/wattage and burned crud onto the coil the deed has been done - it's gonna taste like crap until you replace the coil or clean it. Once you have burned flavoring components onto the coil your vape is a mixture of burning crud and liquid vapor. You can't reverse the process by dropping the voltage after you do that.

Keep the volts/watts low on these things when you start and only adjust up as needed. Believe it or not - that can work.

I get that, yes.

But it doesn't really make sense to have a Provari with Pro Tank and vape it @ 3 volts.. then I better just use my eGo for same style of vape, hassle free.
 

stevegmu

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I get that, yes.

But it doesn't really make sense to have a Provari with Pro Tank and vape it @ 3 volts.. then I better just use my eGo for same style of vape, hassle free.

It does. The consistent power delivery of the ProVari at low volts with a low ohm coil make for a mellow, saturated flavor no ego could ever match. Mine almost never make it above 3.3 volts.
 

stevegmu

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All I get @ 3.3 volts is super small clouds with almost no flavour...

no TH at all.

Maybe it is the juice. I'm vaping Alice In Vapeland's April Moon right now at 2.9v., with a 1.8ohm coil on a ProVari and am getting rich, saturated flavor and billowy vapor.

Throat hit is mostly a response to nicotine content.
 

Katya

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Rather a lot of people have these problems with ProTanks.

First, quit staring at charts and stop getting lost in the shoulds. A Kanger coil works at it's correct voltage, not what "the chart" says it should work at.

Well, if you look at Kanger charts, they are actually very useful. So I always recommend using charts and doing the math, especially when you're a new vaper.

Kanger does recommend suitable voltages for their BCCs on the little leaflet that comes with their ProTanks (and on their site):

Recommended Voltage for varying resistance levels:

1.7-1.9ohm - 3.1-3.4V
2.1-2.3ohm - 3.5.3.8V
2.4-2.6ohm - 3.9-4.2V
2.6-3.0ohm - 4.3-4.7V

*The above recommendations are merely a guideline. Personal preference as well as specific set ups, hardware, liquids, etc. can have an effect on the proper Voltage to use.

If you do the math, they recommend wattages from 5.5-7.5 watts, which is about right. Which is what I also always recommend. I've used Kanger coils from 1.8 to 2.5Ω on various voltages and devices, from vv eGos to a ProVari. Never had any serious problems in the recommended 5.5-7.5W range, no matter what resistance coil I used.

Dry hits occur when not enough juice is being delivered to the hot coil fast enough to cool it off. Period. Vaping technique, juice viscosity and wattage play a crucial role.
 
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madqatter

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Yeah I didn't like the Pro Tank 2. Always tasted burnt. Sucks on VV or VW devices.
Mine are working great on kicked mechs (which are, of course, VW). If I get a burnt taste on the first hit or two, it's usually because the juice I'm using isn't wicking fast enough. So I remove a flavor wick or two, maybe flip the gasket, depending on the circumstances. No more burnt flavor. Such adjustments take a couple of minutes. :)

I used to as well but for some reason when I took out one of the two flavor wicks inside, It vaped like a champ! no burning taste at all.
Yep!

If you do the math, {Kanger} recommend wattages from 5.5-7.5 watts, which is about right.... Never had any serious problems in the recommended 5.5-7.5W range, no matter what resistance coil I used.
Yep, mine do great in that range.

Vaping technique, juice viscosity and wattage play a crucial role.
:thumb:
 

GREEN ZOMBIE

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Read back over the thread, All I can say is this, I own 10 ProTank I and 5 ProTank II, The design has it's flaws as does anything, Even my Provari isn't perfect (Don't kill me ProVari People) I like the protank I. over the Protank II. But my Davide tank is better (In my opinion) than my protanks but I still use my protanks...

Then there is juice, I like extracts, not essences or artificial flavors in my juice so I pay a price for this, as I get coil buildup faster and burning, But I don't mind rebuilding so it's not an issue... I know my juices and what Volts each likes and at what ohm, also airflow comes into play here as it can change flavor, vapor and throat hit... not to mention I use 100% VG and need super fast wicking, But if i chain vape I can get flooding as the Juice heats up and gets thinned out...

So I guess it's just a matter of knowing your equipment and deciding what you can, and can not live with, There are some learning curves I just don't care to bother with and I don't, I walk away, such as genesis style atomizers and the damn leaking if you lay them down... Not all of them do this but most do and I just don't want to bother.

So um... Yeah I guess maybe it all comes down to vape style and what you are willing to put up with.
 

iGl0

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Oct 17, 2013
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Don't know what everyone is saying about the OP's question. Well whatever volts you want to vape at whichever ohms is completely up to you. Yes some volts are more ideal and standard for ohms vise-versa, but everyone has their own preferences. But I'm sure no one wants a burnt taste. Seems like you have a short... if you are only taking 4-5 hits, something is definitely burning wrong. Do you have a digital multi meter? Check for ohms consistency, pulse fire the protank without the wick see if the coils are burning evenly. Also check your connection and see if its altered in anyway, sometimes the connection is the problem.
 

madqatter

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I guess it's just a matter of knowing your equipment and deciding what you can, and can not live with.... maybe it all comes down to vape style and what you are willing to put up with.
I think so.

I haven't enjoyed driving any car as much as I enjoyed driving my first car. The steering, for example, was fantastic. That doesn't mean that my first car was flawless in every imaginable way (far from it, in fact) or that it would have satisfied any driver as much as it did me (definitely not). No equipment is flawless in every imaginable way and not everyone has the same preferences in their equipment. I can get my Protanks to work just the way I like them, but some folks don't like bottom coils at all. :)
 

Fizzpop

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On eGo it's better but I'll still get burnt vapes from time to time.

On Provari I vape @ 4 - 4.2 volts (2.5 omh heads), so it shouldn't be the problem...

From what I see, it's the wicking thing.

Try vaping closer to 3.7-3.8 volts, generally if you are getting a burned taste, it is an indication your voltage is too high.
 

GREEN ZOMBIE

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OP, Can I ask you a question...

What was your first kit, Was it a top coil design or something that was ok to tilt and vape, such as a vertical coil carto?

Only ask because I'm a noob too, and being a noob I was laying down on my back watching a movie, Totally focused on the movie I reached over and grabbed my vape, Took 2-3 nice hits and all of a sudden I got the worst burnt taste ever... Instantly remembering this thread.

And the rest of you... No laughing at my noobieness... Ok fine, go ahead, it is pretty funny :lol:

After all learning is half the fun!!!
 
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Vapoor eyes er

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Something I posted for someone else with the ProTank burnt taste problem.
For some reason the protank creates a vaccum inside the tank if it's overtightened. Loosen it slowly while you tip the entire unit away from you, look for a bubble or two to rise to the top. That bubble is a sign it is wicking. The Tank itself generally will not leak even if it is slightly unscrewed to allow some air in. With the tank slightly unscrewed, prevent dry burns by periodically tipping it and looking for a bubble. Some have better luck using Evod heads in the ProTank.

OP, Can I ask you a question...

What was your first kit, Was it a top coil design or something that was ok to tilt and vape, such as a vertical coil carto?

Only ask because I'm a noob too, and being a noob I was laying down on my back watching a movie, Totally focused on the movie I reached over and grabbed my vape, Took 2-3 nice hits and all of a sudden I got the worst burnt taste ever... Instantly remembering this thread.

And the rest of you... No laughing at my noobieness... Ok fine, go ahead, it is pretty funny:laugh:
 

GREEN ZOMBIE

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Oct 20, 2013
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Something I posted for someone else with the ProTank burnt taste problem.
For some reason the protank creates a vaccum inside the tank if it's overtightened. Loosen it slowly while you tip the entire unit away from you, look for a bubble or two to rise to the top. That bubble is a sign it is wicking. The Tank itself generally will not leak even if it is slightly unscrewed to allow some air in. With the tank slightly unscrewed, prevent dry burns by periodically tipping it and looking for a bubble. Some have better luck using Evod heads in the ProTank.

Huh? Um... Not sure what that has to do with tipping a BCC upside down, Was asking the OP if he was tipping his BCC... Kinda confused now.
 

Vapoor eyes er

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Huh? Um... Not sure what that has to do with tipping a BCC upside down, Was asking the OP if he was tipping his BCC... Kinda confused now.

Sorry I thought you were having the burning taste issue. It's all good. When I lay in bed watching TV I use a knucklehead drip tip- seems to help.
 
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