Protank Cotton Rebuild, the way I do it
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Wow, I'm at a record spending level for myself for e stuff... past 40 days spent more than the previous 4 months. Must. Stop. Spending.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
Funny how that works out, isn't it? That's why I'm hoping against hope that my SVD holds up.
After I get some locking pliers (any suggestions? ) I'm done for awhile and will only be buying juice. Oh yeah, can't forget some new batteries for the Nemesis I have coming... something with more than the 10 amps... then I'll really be done.
Should note that I've been using a PT2 mini for my recent success, though I've ordered a PT2 recently.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
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Tried it with the pin vise and tension, was able to get a nice coil. Only problem was that it wouldn't fire on my Sigelei Legend to oxidize. So I wound another one, tried it, reads short again. So I stuck it on one of my homemade copper mech mods and was able to oxidize it, put it back on the legend and was a good 1.8 ohms same as my coilcalc said, vapes nice, will know after a week or so how long it lasts. After vaping a few minutes I am getting a lot of gurgling and a load of juice on my tongue, may have to play with the wicks.
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Took it apart and found I didn't get the wicks in properly, put some new cotton in and now it vapes well.
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Pin vise and the precision screwdriver set -- same basic use?
Just want to make sure I'm understanding.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
Yes, pin vise is like a jewelers screwdriver with a small chuck using the smooth end of a drill bit in it which is much more precisely made than a cheap screwdriver. example: http://www.amazon.com/Steelex-D3387...=UTF8&qid=1395109792&sr=1-2&keywords=pin+vise
Just throw my drill bit in there upside down with the wire, anchor the wire, and twist?
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And sounds easier since one side is already pinched down for you! (Or am I misunderstanding the method?)
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
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No, you've got it right. You should be able to crimp both the bit and the wire in the collet.
The main advantage over even a light screwdriver is that you can withdraw the bit. Sometimes having a heavy handle on the screwdriver can be a pain. If you let the handle side drop you can skew the coil. If it's after you've set the leads you can pull one out of termination. Or, you can unbalance the coil, disfigure it. If you use a pin vise, you can just untighten the collet to free the bit and locate the coil just with that.
Another benefit is that you can shop for quite inexpensive high precision drill [bit] blanks. These are the best and available sizes are across the metric and SAE spectrum.
Plus a pin vise has many other practical uses, e.g. as a hand turned drill or file.
Good luck brook.
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No, you've got it right. You should be able to crimp both the bit and the wire in the collet.
The main advantage over even a light screwdriver is that you can withdraw the bit. Sometimes having a heavy handle on the screwdriver can be a pain. If you let the handle side drop you can skew the coil. If it's after you've set the leads you can pull one out of termination. Or, you can unbalance the coil, disfigure it. If you use a pin vise, you can just untighten the collet to free the bit and locate the coil just with that.
Another benefit is that you can shop for quite inexpensive high precision drill [bit] blanks. These are the best and available sizes are across the metric and SAE spectrum.
Plus a pin vise has many other practical uses, e.g. as a hand turned drill or file.
Good luck brook.
Well, I should be set. I ordered the vise from Amazon that pj posted earlier. Hopefully it fits the smaller drill bits nicely, otherwise I'll have to look into a better vise. The reviews have me a bit nervous. I'll know soon enough. Should arrive Wednesday (thank you Amazon Prime!)
I'm going to have so many options with the precision screw driver kits and now the vise. Should last me a very long time, which works out because I can't buy anything new for quite some time,
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I don't know how most people do it, but I do use a flavor wick, primarily to be sure that I've got enough cotton to fill the slots, but I also think it also helps prevent accumulation of crud on top of the coil by keeping the top of the coil (which would normally be the hottest spot on it) cooler, and generally makes for a longer time before maintenance (dry burn & re-wicking) becomes necessary.
So I have my pin vise and my PT2 coming today. 30 gauge Kanthal supposed to be here tomorrow. The question is, can I wait to rebuild the stock PT2 coil for the 30 gauge or not... patience may be a virtue, but it's one I certainly don't have!
Really hoping that pin vise that was posted from Amazon will fit at least as small as 1/16th (if not 1/32" bit).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005W...92&ref_=sr_1_2&s=hi&sr=1-2&tag=vglnk-c1061-20
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
Really hoping that pin vise that was posted from Amazon will fit at least as small as 1/16th (if not 1/32" bit).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005W...92&ref_=sr_1_2&s=hi&sr=1-2&tag=vglnk-c1061-20
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
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Naaahhh, wind the 32g. Why postpone the inevitable. LOL
If you like small gauges, you're probably liking warmer and drier. Try 7/6 wraps of 32AWG on 1/16" which should give you around 2Ω. Perhaps a bit lower if you get the tension wind right first time out of the gate. With this thin gauge ramp up time for the coil will be quick and it will resemble a rather warmer vape than 30 AWG.
Remember to delicately place your finished coil in the slot right on the bit. After sending the leads down the assembly bend them, one after the other, up against the exterior of the assembly to hold them in position…in the direction they come off the wind (and opposite each other). Insert one leg through the grommet center leaving the other above and push the grommet most of the way in. Leave the legs long coming out of the grommet and tension them lightly as you terminate and start pushing in the grommet. It may take a few steps to match the tension of the legs and keep the outer turns tight on the bit. Pull with your fingers or a forceps then look at the coil. You may see the coil skew if you pull one side or the other too tightly. Make sure the end turns on either side look as taught as the rest of the coil before you do your final push on the grommet.
Now, if the coil appears skewed (turned away from the slot) there is a way to correct this (are you listening M?). I've mentioned in the past that you can correct for this by grasping both the grommet and the pin between thumb and index finger and rotating it, one way or the other, a millimeter at a time. You don't want to do this too much.…you can cross the leads. Sometimes this slight adjustment can eliminate any slight skew without doing a re-set.
If there is an uneven tension in the coils in one direction or another the coil turns will look more diagonal than straight and joined. The will still try to be a coil, the way you wound it if you remove the uneven tension. So back off the grommet if you have to and retention, or try rotating the grommet in the opposite direction.
You may during these small micro steps have to revisit tensioning each lead. Again, to make absolutely sure that the end turns are tight.
If it looks reasonable, finish tightening up the leads until certain the end turns are taught and remove the bit (you can always reinsert it).
If at this point brook the coil is not perfectly aligned with the sockets looking down on the cup, you can ever so slightly, a mm at a time rotate the grommet and pin as above. This is usually enough to get realignment. You may wish to reinsert the bit if you are slightly off the horizontal but try to resist doing so as this may disrupt the coil and require re-setting. At this point if you insert the bit again remember to re-snug the leads.
If the coil is not perpendicular to the pin, or horizontal to the bottom of the slot (one end, or both, high or low) YOU MUST reinsert the bit and reset the leads. Usually that means one is more tensioned than the other. Try tensioning the high side of the coil. You should be able to see down into the cup to determine this. If you can't, you need magnification. Adjust each side as may be needed.
Now when you have the alignment issues resolved you can finish pushing in the grommet and twirl off or clip the leads as you wish.
Careful to look carefully for any loose end (referred to here as "hangers") extruding from the grommet for either the neg or pos at the pin. If you can feel them, for sure they're there. Best to put a spy glass on it to be sure. If you find a protrusion snip it or it will cause a short or variation of resistance in operation.
The first time you do this process it may seem a bit arduous. After you've done it a few times and allowed yourself the time to observe these variations and how easily they are overcome with these simple adjustments it will become like second nature. You'll always be just a few finger movements from perfection when you know the answer to the problem.
And there you have it. The basic round up. You're ready to give birth to a true microcoil, just pulse and anneal. If the tension is there and equalized you'll go micro on the first pulse. End turns that don't equalize in brightness (or nearly so) with the remainder of the coil after 2-3 pulses may be insufficiently tensioned (less tension than the rest). They are usually brighter than most of the coil. Sometimes even brighter than the center. That is a short, the precursor to a hot lead and failure. A coil that doesn't light from the center, well…is not a microcoil. And probably shorted already. Rewind. Just takes a couple of minutes and will save you hours of heartache. Trust me.
Follow this without the serious glitches I last describe and you should be in tensioned heaven today!
Otherwise, come harass the natives right here on this thread.
Good luck.
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Naaahhh, wind the 32g. Why postpone the inevitable. LOL
If you like small gauges, you're probably liking warmer and drier. Try 7/6 wraps of 32AWG on 1/16" which should give you around 2Ω. Perhaps a bit lower if you get the tension wind right first time out of the gate. With this thin gauge ramp up time for the coil will be quick and it will resemble a rather warmer vape than 30 AWG.
Remember to delicately place your finished coil in the slot right on the bit. After sending the leads down the assembly bend them, one after the other, up against the exterior of the assembly to hold them in position in the direction they come off the wind (and opposite each other). Insert one leg through the grommet center leaving the other above and push the grommet most of the way in. Leave the legs long coming out of the grommet and tension them lightly as you terminate and start pushing in the grommet. It may take a few steps to match the tension of the legs and keep the outer turns tight on the bit. Pull with your fingers or a forceps then look at the coil. You may see the coil skew if you pull one side or the other too tightly. Make sure the end turns on either side look as taught as the rest of the coil before you do your final push on the grommet.
Now, if the coil appears skewed (turned away from the slot) there is a way to correct this (are you listening M?). I've mentioned in the past that you can correct for this by grasping both the grommet and the pin between thumb and index finger and rotating it, one way or the other, a millimeter at a time. You don't want to do this too much. you can cross the leads. Sometimes this slight adjustment can eliminate any slight skew without doing a re-set.
If there is an uneven tension in the coils in one direction or another the coil turns will look more diagonal than straight and joined. The will still try to be a coil, the way you wound it if you remove the uneven tension. So back off the grommet if you have to and retention, or try rotating the grommet in the opposite direction.
You may during these small micro steps have to revisit tensioning each lead. Again, to make absolutely sure that the end turns are tight.
If it looks reasonable, finish tightening up the leads until certain the end turns are taught and remove the bit (you can always reinsert it).
If at this point brook the coil is not perfectly aligned with the sockets looking down on the cup, you can ever so slightly, a mm at a time rotate the grommet and pin as above. This is usually enough to get realignment. You may wish to reinsert the bit if you are slightly off the horizontal but try to resist doing so as this may disrupt the coil and require re-setting. At this point if you insert the bit again remember to re-snug the leads.
If the coil is not perpendicular to the pin, or horizontal to the bottom of the slot (one end, or both, high or low) YOU MUST reinsert the bit and reset the leads. Usually that means one is more tensioned than the other. Try tensioning the high side of the coil. You should be able to see down into the cup to determine this. If you can't, you need magnification. Adjust each side as may be needed.
Now when you have the alignment issues resolved you can finish pushing in the grommet and twirl off or clip the leads as you wish.
Careful to look carefully for any loose end (referred to here as "hangers") extruding from the grommet for either the neg or pos at the pin. If you can feel them, for sure they're there. Best to put a spy glass on it to be sure. If you find a protrusion snip it or it will cause a short or variation of resistance in operation.
The first time you do this process may seem a bit arduous. After you've done it a few times and allowed yourself the time to observe these variations and how easily they are overcome with these simple adjustments it will become like second nature. You'll always be just a few finger movements from perfection when you know the answer to the problem.
And there you have it. The basic round up. You're ready to give birth to a true microcoil, just pulse and anneal. If the tension is there and equalized you'll go micro on the first pulse. End turns that don't equalize in brightness (or nearly so) with the remainder of the coil after 2-3 pulses may be insufficiently tensioned (less tension than the rest). They are usually brighter than most of the coil. Sometimes even brighter than the center. That is a short, the precursor to a hot lead and failure. A coil that doesn't light from the center, well is not a microcoil. And probably shorted already. Rewind. Just takes a couple of minutes and will save you hours of heartache. Trust me.
Follow this without the serious glitches I last describe and you should be in tensioned heaven today!
Otherwise, come harass the natives right here on this thread.
Good luck.
Wow, thank you Mac, tons of great info. Will definitely be keeping this post highlighted when I get to the TMC process.
To be fair, I've rebuilt a few Kanger coils with 28 gauge micro coils on 5/64" bit in Rip Trippers' style with spectacular results -- certain juices (i.e. my 50/50 MBV banana flavor) allow me to go from 8 watts to 15 watts with excellent flavor and vapor. The builds range from 1.7 ohms to 2.0 ohms and even containing the imperfections that doing the pinch and torch process allow, it has brought Kanger coils from the bottom of my list for devices to the top.
I've yet to rebuild on a 1/16" or using 32 gauge. So will definitely try that. Plus I have more 32 gauge wire left than 28 gauge, so I can afford some mess ups.
Thank you again! I'm sure I'll be asking plenty more questions.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
Well I love 5/64" but as I said earlier in this thread (or the Protank Cotton thread) it's not possible to slot on the bit on most clearo's. And as I described above if you can't tension the coil as you install it you will have hotspots (shorts). It seems such an awfully simple electrical principle yet so unimaginably difficult to get across at times. I'm pleased to see you're trying the 16th. If your kit has something less than the 1.8mm slot width, I'd rather that and put more wick in. Or as I've also suggested, file out the slot to permit the 5/64" bit. Right there are your options.
Also, if you want to consider making twisted pair out of your 32's, you might like it. And, oh, btw you can tension that too for a really cool dense vape. Use the collet Rip style to lock in the open end of the wire and hold down the loop at your foot with a vice grip or needle nose. Pull up on the drill as you wind the wire at a constant tension but the collet must be secured tightly. You will get a tensioned twisted pair that's probably unlike any you've ever seen. Another method is to weight the wire and hand turn it with enough of a ballast. That will produce some extremely fine tight twists as well. Look for the resistance tables published earlier in this thread for guidance on the equivalent 28 gauge resistance to 32 T/P.
Hey, don't get me goin'. Ok? Allright?
Good luck.
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