Protank II and provari question

[JBR3AK]

Alright. So I noticed a tighter draw overtime with the replacement heads I'm using for my PT2 on my 2.5 provari. Here it goes.

Problem: noticed tight draw on PT2 over time after installing new head onto my PT2 running my usual 60/40 (PG/VG blend) juice in it with silicone ring right above the wicks off. Works fine for about 25 pulls.

Found: the contact pin on the provari is small enough to clear the threading on the PT2 base and recess the and contact pin on the replacement head into the PT2 base.

Solution: I pulled the contact pin of the replacement head out approx. 4mm and reinserted the head into the PT2. When tightening the PT2 to the provari, I do it just enough to make both contact pins touch. But after 10 pulls, I must tighten the PT more to the provari for another 10 pulls, and eventually find myself pulling the pin again.

So, anybody else having this problem? If so, is it the heads? Or a flaw in design? Or is this normal?

(P.S. I beveled out the base on the PT with a dremel for more airflow as I initially thought clearance tolerances were an issue between the base of the tank and the mod. Turns out, it's not... However, it REALLY helps with vapor production and a very airy hit.)


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[JBR3AK]

UPDATE: eureka! I believe I fixed it! I had to bevel out the air holes in the base of the PT2 right above the threading and pick the holes out with a fine pick (aka thumbtack). Works wonders now. Could be more airy to my liking, but I don't want to risk cutting off the threading completely now.. Btw, sorry if this is the wrong section to post.


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[Rook45]

Congrats....the Provari and pt2 combo made me go RBA/RDA.


Jon

 

[BulletStopper]

I started with a PT2. Using a carto and tank right now and will have a Kayfun Lite Plus next week.

 

[JBR3AK]

Funny.. I came from a carto tank setup.. Lol. I was thinking of going RBA/RDA. My brother has one. I tried fiddling with it, and said forget it. I just love the flavor from a PT2, but the carto tank is slightly cheaper and easier. Idk. My phiniac just sits glaring at me on its side on my desk. The way I dremeled out this PT2, it's like a top fuel dragster.. I'm using 1.8 (+/- 0.1)ohm heads on it pushing 4.0V's using 50/50 and 60/40 juice.. I can't see much of anything after a 5 second toot of it.


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[Thunderball]

I started with a PT2. Using a carto and tank right now and will have a Kayfun Lite Plus next week.

The Kayfun is the cream of the crop right now. A lovely and well designed unit. Build a 1.1 ohm coil and cotton for a VV/VW mod and its just pure bliss.......

Not to hijack, but puts the Protank in the drawer every time........... (but you have to learn to build your coils, not hard to do)

Wrap 7 wraps on a 5/64 drill bit of 28 Kanthal and youve got 1.1 everytime and alll VV/VW mods will fire this bad boy up !!

 

[BulletStopper]

Wrap 7 wraps on a 5/64 drill bit of 28 Kanthal and youve got 1.1 everytime and alll VV/VW mods will fire this bad boy up !!

That's right about where I plan on shooting for, maybe a bit higher 1.3 - 1.5 and am planning to use cotton. Going to pick up cotton today so I'm ready when everything arrives Monday.

 

[PONKAW]

I may try the hole fix. I switched back to the PT1 base on myPT2 because of the draw issue. Strange thing I found (I have around 20 kanger heads I rebuild in rotation) some heads work fine and others act like a stopper. BTW the PT2 with any head works great if you have adjustable air flow. example, Nemesis clone.

 

[JBR3AK]

Just be careful. You'll bore through the base of the atty if you're not careful.. It'll look like there's no hole. You need to pick where the hole was and ream it out a bit with a thumbtack or sewing needle of sorts. This dremel has been my best friend in modding lol. My slotted cartos would agree as well. X)


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