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OK, I've got the pin vise, the wire, the drill bit, the RM2. I have been practicing for about half an hour so far. Right away I found out I need to mark the pin vise or else I have no idea when I've reached a wrap. Even with it marked, I still lose count hopelessly.
I've been trying to take it slow and get even tension. First big question so far is how do I know when I have a good one? What will I see that will tell me I have adhesion?
Here's what I've been doing, over and over for practice:
I wrap a bunch of times, until I see a succession of sweet looking coils in a row, then remove the bit from the pin vise with the coil on it, unwrap the beginning bad ones, check the ohms, and install it on the RM2. And fire it.
It lights from the inside out, like a regular microcoil. Sometimes I get hot legs at first, sometimes I don't. Just like a regular microcoil without tension.
So, how do I tell the difference? I need something to look for, when I get it right. Because if I know what to repeat, then I can repeat it!
Well, there is a difference. The coils I'm wrapping with tension are extremely even, close, and don't unwind by themselves at all.
Still I don't know how to tell if I'm using enough tension, or too much. (I'll keep making them.)
I've been trying to take it slow and get even tension. First big question so far is how do I know when I have a good one? What will I see that will tell me I have adhesion?
Here's what I've been doing, over and over for practice:
I wrap a bunch of times, until I see a succession of sweet looking coils in a row, then remove the bit from the pin vise with the coil on it, unwrap the beginning bad ones, check the ohms, and install it on the RM2. And fire it.
It lights from the inside out, like a regular microcoil. Sometimes I get hot legs at first, sometimes I don't. Just like a regular microcoil without tension.
So, how do I tell the difference? I need something to look for, when I get it right. Because if I know what to repeat, then I can repeat it!
Well, there is a difference. The coils I'm wrapping with tension are extremely even, close, and don't unwind by themselves at all.
Still I don't know how to tell if I'm using enough tension, or too much. (I'll keep making them.)
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Mia, sounds like you're already there. Congrats! Winding only with enough tension to get the results you mentioned above is the key. Too much tension and you will stretch the wire making it thinner; that will show up as a higher than expected res.
If it looks like a tension wind and vapes like a tension wind, it must be....
Great! I thought it would be a lot more difficult. I can do this!
Can I use different size drill bits? I usually prefer a larger diameter than a 1/16. Last few months I've been using as big a bit as a 3/36! I suppose it's not a microcoil then, but will the t.m.c. principle work? (I guess it's just called a t.c. ?)
And can I do this with twisted wire, too? I guess I should just ask, can I use it for all my builds on all RDAs?
Yay you did it. It is not hard and you have probably always been doing close to it.
Tension works with all diameters and wire types. Just makes things stay where you put them...now if I could just get my wife to...
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Damn skippy. Sounds like you def got adhesion, closest contact. Last part of the process is oxidation which it seems you got through as well. Everybody I'm sure practices their own method. I've always encouraged a slow process as I described a few posts back with...Tweaking tensioned micro's during oxidation…
As my own pulsing strategies have matured I've found that less is more. The characteristic result will be that unlike a common microcoil it will fire increasingly uniformly rather than inside out as your oxidation process is refined. Less handling the better. I hardly ever squeeze or compress coils except very gently if there are minor dark spots. You occasionally will loose an end turn on things like drippers. But usually these days I go to a ceramic tweezers to encourage faster oxidation at low voltage. Once you get to adhesion, it'll just get better with each one you build. And your taste will be the best indicator just how well you did.
Good luck Mia. Enjoy the vape.
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Crickets chirping again
I'm here, and I've been checking in from time to time, lol.
I've been using the method to wrap all my coils, a few different diameters. I have a pile of coils in a bowl from practicing, and I think I have it down now. Taking a break, though, because turning the pin vise makes my hands tired after a while.
Mia, tell us how your vape is going, what devices you're winding for and how tension winding is effecting the performance. Curious.
No hurry, give yourself time to be comfortable. As I recall you've done Kay's. Great idea to try one of these in something you're already familiar with. Best way to tell the difference in production and vape temperature. First time out, and as they.get more consistent. And if you're so inclined…a picture would be nice.
Have a good one Mia, g'luck.
No hurry? Whaaaaaat?! The suspense is killing me!...
What I can tell ya is the twisted lead parallel is by far the most stable productive coil pound-for-pound I've ever built. It edges out the twisted center post. But I won't know for sure until I run more numbers.
Rewicked after a week and one of the most pristine coils I've ever used. KGD started to exhibit some saturation as I expected after 3-4 days and it did slightly subdue output for flavor and density noticeably. However, less than any other wind I've used in a tank (not just Protanks) or that I expected. I did notice some accretion on one end turn. And what a surprise the one turn with any significant distortion, far end-turn inboard, which you may see if you look closely at the pic below. It cannot be more than maybe a .1-.2 mm. I could not see it until the 32" blow ups and the thing was chaining clouds.
Doing 10-20-30, 2-3 sec pulls Cig is not an issue. Not at all in the target 15-20 range, air slot 50-100% open. And vapor production is huge. After 3-4 slightly longer pulls I gotta stop or I can't see the screen comfortably. The room fogs. I can chain at 25W. Your suggested slight puffs to neutralize excessive neg pressure work fabulously if done at first hint of tight draw and you never get there (I cover the air slot doing so). Baby steps.
All this I'm rapidly encouraged is due to the airflow of the Sub's. This is what a t.m.c. requires. That we start thinking or rather rethinking the notion of what is adequate wicking and airflow when winding one of these. And why my insistence which seemed to contradict at times your reasoned responses. It is about airflow. And t.m.c.'s love it. Second round as good as the first. Eager to see what these will ultimately do with Nextel.
I am running at 15W, a moderately pigmented bakery/fruit of 72% VG including some organic extractions.
I do agree though cigs mebe a top end limit of ~25W with an optimal wick in this tank. But that is by far more than will be needed for exceptional performance with a proper coil for most of us seeking a high output density challenge.
So the pertinent question what is the density accompanying this vapor?
Not gonna tell ya. You're just gonna have to get one of these right. There. More than anything the trials with this wind have been to answer the question if density could be achieved on these downright arrid tanks. To combine the rapid fire/heat up time with the vapor production apparent from a parallel. Would stabilizing leads do that with the exceptional coverage of a light wire t.m.c. wind?
About to drop one in an Immo at the very next opportunity. They have been the optimal flavor baseline comparison standard using t.m.c. straight wire, until now.
Good luck all.
Sorry, there won't be any pictures. I wasted way too much time and got frustrated. Not with winding tmc's, but trying to take a decent photo. My camera will not cooperate and I guess I'm a terrible photographer! I got a headache from trying to make out all of the fuzzy pictures I took.
All I've been doing is building for the RM2 to start. It's the simplest atty I have, takes one coil and is foolproof. I have a Reo, so any bottom-fed atty is fair game. I have a Magma and Odin modified to bottom feed, and a RM4, which is a modified Atomic. Those can be built to either single or dual coils, and they are up next for practice.
I actually started this morning to make dual coils for the Atomic with twin 2mm drill bits. I find it easier with my pin vise to put the wire in first, then shove the bit in and tighten, or the wire tends to go into one of the slots and then pop out on me at the worst possible moment.
I started off using a 1/16 drill bit, and there is more space in the vise, so it was easier to fit the wire in, but that's just a little too tiny for my preference. I seem to get better flavor and vapor going with a little larger diameter, but my pin vise heads jump from very small to too big, and the one that accepts a bit over 2mm won't tighten down enough. So that's how I arrived at 2mm!
I think I have the hang of the proper amount of tension now. I still have to overwrap so I can unwind enough to give me a long enough leg to insert, and I guess if anything is giving me trouble it's counting out the wraps and keeping count. Why is this so much harder than hand winding?? I lose count every time and try to eyeball it. No wonder I get a headache.
I did mark the pin vise by drawing a straight line down the side with a black permanent sharpie and covering it with a coat of clear nail polish to seal it. That works, and I count that, but somewhere between counting out a few starter wraps, then counting actual good wraps, I get lost. And the unwrapping gets me every time!
So that's where I am at this point, trying to make identical twin dual coils. It's a bit frustrating, and I am so tempted to just hand wrap them and be done with it!!
I think I'll take a break and do something else for a while.
All I've been doing is building for the RM2 to start. It's the simplest atty I have, takes one coil and is foolproof. I have a Reo, so any bottom-fed atty is fair game. I have a Magma and Odin modified to bottom feed, and a RM4, which is a modified Atomic. Those can be built to either single or dual coils, and they are up next for practice.
I actually started this morning to make dual coils for the Atomic with twin 2mm drill bits. I find it easier with my pin vise to put the wire in first, then shove the bit in and tighten, or the wire tends to go into one of the slots and then pop out on me at the worst possible moment.
I started off using a 1/16 drill bit, and there is more space in the vise, so it was easier to fit the wire in, but that's just a little too tiny for my preference. I seem to get better flavor and vapor going with a little larger diameter, but my pin vise heads jump from very small to too big, and the one that accepts a bit over 2mm won't tighten down enough. So that's how I arrived at 2mm!
I think I have the hang of the proper amount of tension now. I still have to overwrap so I can unwind enough to give me a long enough leg to insert, and I guess if anything is giving me trouble it's counting out the wraps and keeping count. Why is this so much harder than hand winding?? I lose count every time and try to eyeball it. No wonder I get a headache.
I did mark the pin vise by drawing a straight line down the side with a black permanent sharpie and covering it with a coat of clear nail polish to seal it. That works, and I count that, but somewhere between counting out a few starter wraps, then counting actual good wraps, I get lost. And the unwrapping gets me every time!
So that's where I am at this point, trying to make identical twin dual coils. It's a bit frustrating, and I am so tempted to just hand wrap them and be done with it!!
I think I'll take a break and do something else for a while.
What I can tell ya is the twisted lead parallel is by far the most stable productive coil pound-for-pound I've ever built. It edges out the twisted center post. But I won't know for sure until I run more numbers.
Rewicked after a week and one of the most pristine coils I've ever used. KGD started to exhibit some saturation as I expected after 3-4 days and it did slightly subdue output for flavor and density noticeably. However, less than any other wind I've used in a tank (not just Protanks) or that I expected. I did notice some accretion on one end turn. And what a surprise…the one turn with any significant distortion, far end-turn inboard, which you may see if you look closely at the pic below. It cannot be more than maybe a .1-.2 mm. I could not see it until the 32" blow ups and the thing was chaining clouds.
Doing 10-20-30, 2-3 sec pulls Cig is not an issue. Not at all in the target 15-20 range, air slot 50-100% open. And vapor production is huge. After 3-4 slightly longer pulls I gotta stop or I can't see the screen comfortably. The room fogs. I can chain at 25W. Your suggested slight puffs to neutralize excessive neg pressure work fabulously if done at first hint of tight draw and you never get there (I cover the air slot doing so). Baby steps.
All this I'm rapidly encouraged is due to the airflow of the Sub's. This is what a t.m.c. requires. That we start thinking or rather rethinking the notion of what is adequate wicking and airflow when winding one of these. And why my insistence which seemed to contradict at times your reasoned responses. It is about airflow. And t.m.c.'s love it. Second round as good as the first. Eager to see what these will ultimately do with Nextel.
I am running at 15W, a moderately pigmented bakery/fruit of 72% VG including some organic extractions.
I do agree though cigs mebe a top end limit of ~25W with an optimal wick in this tank. But that is by far more than will be needed for exceptional performance with a proper coil for most of us seeking a high output density challenge.
So the pertinent question…what is the density accompanying this vapor?
Not gonna tell ya. You're just gonna have to get one of these right. There. More than anything the trials with this wind have been to answer the question if density could be achieved on these downright arrid tanks. To combine the rapid fire/heat up time with the vapor production apparent from a parallel. Would stabilizing leads do that with the exceptional coverage of a light wire t.m.c. wind?
About to drop one in an Immo at the very next opportunity. They have been the optimal flavor baseline comparison standard using t.m.c. straight wire, until now.
Good luck all.
Just to clarify, what guage is that twisted? And that's a parallel on a Subtank? You didn't change your wicking for a week? Twisted coils don't usually last a week for me, much less wicks. Very interesting write up. I will look into it, both the parallel and the Subtank!
Mia, sounds like you have a lot of nice gear! Thanks for the update too.
I find that my $8 jewelers visor from amazon is indispensable for winding and setting coils. Old eyes. Can't count turns without it and I somtimes lose count even when using the Cigamajig where unwinding starter wraps isn't even necessary. Feel for ya.
Two ways to get that camera to focus: place a sheet of paper with contrasting text or print right behind the coil or set your camera for "center focus" or "spot focus" if it has that feature. If using a camera with a macro function: select it; it will allow the lense to focus closer to the object.
I would not sit with it for too long in one sitting. Just wrap a few and wait until you need another. They might not be perfect at first but eventually they will get better. My favorite blank bit is 1.78MM and I have to use pliers to use to tighten it in the pin vise. I lose count a lot with a pin vise too. 
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