Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

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MacTechVpr

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A sampling of some of the 1.75mm coil results...

Kanger Protank coils, JC Mix 1.33 mg, eVic & vMax Rev. 3

32AWG, 7/6 1.75mm i.d. (2mm Sil.), microcoil
32AWG, 6/5 1.75mm i.d. (2mm Sil.), tight= 2.2Ω Great vape! Dial 3.5V, 5.5W to start.

30AWG, 9/8 1.75mm i.d. (XC-132), m.c. =2.1Ω Good vape @ 3.5V, 5.5-6W, Both zMax like!
30AWG, 8/7 1.75mm i.d. (2mm Silica), microcoil = 1.95Ω Fair vape @3.5V, 6.4W (eVic dialing in 6.4W vs. opt, short?)
30AWG, 7/6 1.75mm i.d., microcoil = 1.78 √
30AWG, 7/6 1.75mm i.d. (XC-132), microcoil = 1.78 AWESOME @6.2W (1.67Ω in op)
30AWG, 7/6 1.75mm i.d. (XC-132), m.c. tight = 1.68Ω


Kanger 3Ts Coils, JC Mix 1.44 mg, eVic, Magneto/3TS/AW18490

30AWG, 7/6 1.75mm i.d. (2mm Sil.), microcoil = 1.8Ω PDG, @3.2V, 6W, Kick
 
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Manicmama

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Thank you guys for this thread, I've just read each post and it's encouraged me to finally have a go at MC in my protank 2's, I've got quite good at regular coils, so I'm gonna watch that vid and no doubt re-read this thread several more times then give it a try.
I've been using organic cotton for my wick with no flavour wick and hoping I'll be able to thread cotton through a micro as I love the clean vape cotton gives, I may try ekowool if it proves too tricky for me.
I'm getting the feel most of you are using 30ga kanthal or 28ga?
I've been using 32ga on my regular coils so will order a small reel each of 30 and 28 to see what I find works best.
Thank you :)
 

M_DuBb716

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Thanks Mac, your replies are soo informative!! I haven't read through them all, but I will, and I better understand what you're saying now. When you mentioned the different ways of getting an even coil, I use the last technique you mentioned. I wrap more wraps than I intend to have when it's done, and than pull away a few of the wraps under pressure.. Now I'll probably try your other techniques, next time.. ..... Thanks a lot Mac, this is very helpful and informative info!!

Manicmama, glad we could help!! You definitely won't be disappointed with a proper micro.. It seems 30ga Kanthal works best for me, but I just grabbed some 28 to experiment some more with.
 
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M_DuBb716

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Tell me, am I over- or under-wicked (ie - do I need to toss a strand or two on top), or is there maybe some assembly thing going on?

I've read that the optimal amount of wick-material inside the Protank is somewhere around 3.5-4mm (I think).. I use cotton balls, so It's hard to tell exactly how much I use; but I'm guessing about 2mm inside the coil, and a 1.5mm flavor wick on top. I always get a slight leak with my rebuilds - whenever I unscrew my PT to refill or whatever, I'll usually see a tiny amount of juice condensated on top of my battery pin.. Once in awhile, a small drop of juice there. I just wipe it off
 

MacTechVpr

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And I'm really thinking I need to try wrapping on a 5/64in drill bit instead of the 1/16", after reading your results Mac. You say that you get the best results with an inside diameter of 1.75mm.. The 1/16th drill bit gives me an inside diameter of slightly under 1.6mm (around 1.55?)

I'll qualify that because I've been concentrating lately on builds incorporating Nextel XC-132. It has a cross-section of about 2mm but is hollow. It's a tad loose in a 2mm coil winding; and, a bit snug in 1/16" (1.5875mm). I'm looking for a good set of metric precision screw drivers that include 1.6 and 1.8mm because what I'm really looking for is an optimal fit for the wick media. The whole struggle here is getting it in! And for me doing it in place is far more stable. Less chance of damaging the coil you crafted so carefully after it's been nicely tested and burned in. A shame really. Plus making sure you don't constrain the flow (easy to do with hand winds) or it's too loose and perhaps invites flooding.

To me it's about fit. When it's right and it's really right at 1.75mm and Nextel the saturation is dead on (on Protanks). For 2mm high grade silica, high temp (it's different), it's a bit more compact than standard silica and fits well and snug in 2mm. It's the devil to pay inserting it. Ekowool, I've seen much diameter variation and the appropriate fit for the wick is usually too tight to insert manually with any speed. It takes me less than 10 sec to wick Nextel. Pull some out of the pouch, pretwist the wick a little bit and moisten the tip slightly (not much or it bloats a bit) then let it unwind into the coil with a bit of forward pressure. You may see some bit of fraying from the many weaves that make up the surface. But they're seldom more than .2-.3mm, fold neatly back onto the material and slide on through. Even re-wicking used coils in place is a breeze despite coil carbonization. Too heavy an oxidation layer and it should be replaced anyway. It's gonna fail, or break from handling. I take them out of service. That said, I've not popped one yet (of these in-place rebuilds).

The material [Nextel] is a pleasure to work with. And...the flavor is different but to my senses less colored than cotton, even washed cotton. Nowhere near as nuanced as Ekowool which has a very distinctive taste to me (I would say rather it better conveys the more vegetable base attributes of juices. So if you're pure VG like me, pop! Some might call it greasy. Think sitting outside MacDonald's. And for me, I taste the plant itself. At least that's my take on the flavor side of Eko. In fact that might be a more accurate rendering of the actual flavor. Now cotton, to answer the above post, I just have to experiment with the right density for the build. I don't see any other way other than to use a standard cotton product such as candle wick. It's not repeatable. And that's my problem with it. We all have our bad days where we can't build a blessed thing. Cotton doesn't make that easier. But it is a consistent flavor result in that it's forgiving. Too loose I find it to be too airy lacking flavor, too dense the wick you get great flavor but not enough of it. Just right, boom! Heaven. Hard to predict, but you know it when you see it. :)

Bottom line we want to build quickly and consistently. Easy to do on RDA's with cotton (my preferred). Takes some imagination and technique with the clearo's.

Good luck and we'll see ya here. Drop a note with your results.

:)
 

M_DuBb716

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Mac, I'm just now finding out that the Nextel XC-132 that you've been talking about, is a wicking material.. At first I thought it was a tool that you used to wrap your wire on, that had the perfect diameter you wanted, or something lol. Yeah I really like cotton, compared to silica - much better taste IMO

I haven't experimented with ekowool, that XC-132, SS mesh, or anything else though. I feel like I'm still perfecting my microcoil, and trying to find out which works best. Trying to see which resistance works best for me in terms of flavor and amount/thickness of vapor. I still need to try a wider or narrower coil, instead of always using my 1/16" bit to wrap around.
..... Hopefully I'm coming close to the perfect microcoil - the one that I love so much, that I will keep building it the same way without changing the design. And I really need to get a mechanical mod, a good RDA (or other rebuildable atty), and start rebuilding on something that is meant to be rebuilt!

Keep the replies coming guys!! :)
 

MacTechVpr

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Mac, I'm just now finding out that the Nextel XC-132 that you've been talking about, is a wicking material.. At first I thought it was a tool that you used to wrap your wire on, that had the perfect diameter you wanted, or something lol. Yeah I really like cotton, compared to silica - much better taste IMO

I haven't experimented with ekowool, that XC-132, SS mesh, or anything else though. I feel like I'm still perfecting my microcoil, and trying to find out which works best. Trying to see which resistance works best for me in terms of flavor and amount/thickness of vapor. I still need to try a wider or narrower coil, instead of always using my 1/16" bit to wrap around.
..... Hopefully I'm coming close to the perfect microcoil - the one that I love so much, that I will keep building it the same way without changing the design. And I really need to get a mechanical mod, a good RDA (or other rebuildable atty), and start rebuilding on something that is meant to be rebuilt!

Keep the replies coming guys!! :)

I'm with Jonny above on the Magneto as an alternate to my fav. A great switch, really good threading, it Kick's, fires hot on 500/490/350's, nice compact size (22mm, a good fit for rda's)ultra realiable…and inexpensive. Enough to buy two, if you can pick up a good sale. I did. Patience.

If you're comfortable working 1/16 you're in a great zone. I'm leaning 1.75mm because it's easier to thread 1.5-2mm into. You're really better off here to avoid flooding in a PT as the tank empties and pressure changes. Slightly better wicking but they're very very close with Nextel in performance. However, 1/16" is perfect if you target 1.8Ω. And I hit 1.78-1.81Ω with 30g consistently when I install taught as I've described. No wonder so many people like it. It's a great wind too as a pair of these on an rda and your just at the top of subΩ territory, if you care to venture.

Here's a great shot by pdib of a Nextel build into 1/16" so you can get an idea of scale. It's a trickily insertion into this size and why I prefer the 1.75mm…

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...increase-vapor-flavor-th-59.html#post10032084

Note his suggestions on introducing the Nextel material into the coil. My experience pretty much echoes that.

So yea, settle on a coil design and resistance that gets you to your preferred taste/warmth. Then you can sort out what goes in it. I'm likin' Nextel cause it threads easy and I can put together a coil in minutes if not seconds (for a rethread). Can't get any more convenient than that. It just works! In a Protank. What can I say?

Good luck.

:)
 
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MacTechVpr

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And I'm really thinking I need to try wrapping on a 5/64in drill bit instead of the 1/16", after reading your results Mac. You say that you get the best results with an inside diameter of 1.75mm.. The 1/16th drill bit gives me an inside diameter of slightly under 1.6mm (around 1.55?)

Want to be clear on the numbers. I think a 5/64" is great on a Protank…but it will not drop all the way down into the slot of the assembly cup. It will nestle at the top of the "V" but is too thick to use as a mandrel (guide). It's roughly equivalent to to 2mm (0.078125 in., 1.984375mm). It's a good silica coil at that with two 1mm top wicks. But it leaks as the tank empties. The top wicks fray often falling to either side of the coil, scorching and dropping air flow. You end up taking a PT apart too many times, besides refilling, just to keep it clear of debris. This combined with silicone stretching and fraying at the base o-ring and the leaks to the slot presented by the fraying silica make this a very unreliable set up. But guess what folks — it's factory spec!

No wonder we go nuts.

A 1/16" contact coil (micro coil) is great. Smaller tighter coil, heats up fast, drops and stabilizes in the slot easily but is really dicey to get media into. See the remarks from some of the top builders on this forum in super_X_drifter's excellent thread…

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...271-micro-coils-increase-vapor-flavor-th.html

Scan through or search entries for 1/16" for ideas.

My rapidly crystalizing solution is the median between these two specs, the rough factory and ideal, or the 1.75mm coil.

Now to get the number right, I've seen this labeled on some instrument screw kits as 3/43" which works out to the ridiculous 0.069767442 inches. Humans can't fabricate to that precision (yet ?), so lets call it about 1.75mm. I'm looking for a high quality (no aluminum) metric set of precision instrument phillips screwdrivers in .2mm increments which includes 1.6mm and 1.8mm. This would allow varying the flow slightly to account for media, juice viscosity and possible leaking with 3/43" being the approximate center. These are common as jewelers' screwdriver kits but are usually flat-tipped not phillips. The electronics/phone/radio folks have used precision mandrels for this purpose for years. This is nothing new. But they're quite expensive. Microcoils, correctly named, not based on their size are actually contacts coils which more accurately describes their function and design physically.

But sadly no the 5/64" coil doesn't settle in the slot.

Good luck!

:)
 
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M_DuBb716

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Thanks for the excellent advice and info, once again Mac.. I'll probably stick the the 1/16th now since it's working good for my protank, maybe I'll try different diameters when I get an RBA/RDA and a mech. :)

And I'm not sure why, but it does seem like the 1.8Ω coil works the best for my PT microcoil setup, from my experience. (By the way, I'm still using 30ga Kanthal on the 1/16th bit).. I'm vaping on a 2.1Ω MC now, and it doesn't seem to be giving me as good of a flavor from my juice, and the vapor is not as thick. Is this because it takes the 2.1Ω longer to heat up than the 1.8Ω??
..... I believe the 2.1Ω MC I'm vaping on now is 11 wraps; and I'm pretty sure when I do only 10 wraps of 30ga, I always get about 1.8-1.9Ω resistance reading on my eVic - and that coil seems to give me the best vape

From my experience - If I go lower than a 1.8Ω microcoil, (like 1.5-1.6), the flavor seems to be burnt or something, although I get thick vapor. But if I go higher (2.1Ω+), the flavor seems muted, or not all there.. I hope everything I've been saying is making sense!
....And yes, I have read through the majority of that thread you posted a link too in your last reply Mac. I think that's the thread that inspired me to start rebuilding my Protank, and try out the microcoil!
:D
 
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MacTechVpr

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Thanks for the excellent advice and info, once again Mac.. I'll probably stick the the 1/16th now since it's working good for my protank, maybe I'll try different diameters when I get an RBA/RDA and a mech. :)

And I'm not sure why, but it does seem like the 1.8Ω coil works the best for my PT microcoil setup, from my experience. (By the way, I'm still using 30ga Kanthal on the 1/16th bit).. I'm vaping on a 2.1Ω MC now, and it doesn't seem to be giving me as good of a flavor from my juice, and the vapor is not as thick. Is this because it takes the 2.1Ω longer to heat up than the 1.8Ω??
..... I believe the 2.1Ω MC I'm vaping on now is 11 wraps; and I'm pretty sure when I do only 10 wraps of 30ga, I always get about 1.8-1.9Ω resistance reading on my eVic - and that coil seems to give me the best vape

From my experience - If I go lower than a 1.8Ω microcoil, (like 1.5-1.6), the flavor seems to be burnt or something, although I get thick vapor. But if I go higher (2.1Ω+), the flavor seems muted, or not all there.. I hope everything I've been saying is making sense!
....And yes, I have read through the majority of that thread you posted a link too in your last reply Mac. I think that's the thread that inspired me to start rebuilding my Protank, and try out the microcoil!
:D

I had a similar experience with 30g as I worked my way up to 10/9 and 8+ W. A vapor improvement for sure as the build resistance increased but I'm not so sure about a flavor improvement in the PT1. Seemed overheated to me. So I cut off running higher wrap winds at 10 turns on 30g for the PT1 with most media. I may return to Ekowool for that as I have improved on perfecting coil shape considerably since then.

Now I expected similar as I increased resistance from the low end of my variable voltage devices ~1.3Ω with 28g. But to my surprise for the Protank approaching 1.8Ω started to get real good in both vapor and flavor. I just never got there as I'm trying to find a level that's going to be pleasurable for the average person for that Kanger tank. I thought 28g would be too hot a build for most, if great for durability. But maybe just the ticket for you.

But I gotta tell you I'm a bit baffled by your results. On a Kanger PT2 I pull a solid 1.8Ω (tightly within 1.78-1.81Ω) with 8/7, 30g on 1/16". It's all about the length of wire. You'd have to be real loose with your build to get 2.1 IMHO. Just sayin'. As I check results alternating between two different designs of generic 510 testers and crosscheck against at least one VV device each time I build before it goes on anything. Tables are meaningless if they're not reliable.

Not doubting you're getting those values…and the results you're describing. Maybe I'm not seeing straight. But I went through a similar bit of trial and error which is what got me reading the contact coil threads in the first place. Loose line in the water? Maybe? If so, time to reel in. Check the exact length of wire installed from one you pull out and calculate its resistance. Did that many times when things went sideways for me.

But insofar as a flavor target you're on track. Seems like you've found your sweet spot. Now its about nailing down what's causing the variability.

Good luck!

:blink:
 
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MacTechVpr

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when I do only 10 wraps of 30ga, I always get about 1.8-1.9Ω resistance reading on my eVic

Something stuck me about that sentence…and a bell just suddenly went off in my head.

The physics of a contact coil (microcoil) are different. My understanding is that a neat real alignment may produce resistance in operation that is less than measured or spec. That is perhaps what you're encountering. I have seen that occur routinely on the eVic's and Sigelei's I run. They start reflecting a lower resistance not evidently attributable to any specific change. And the tank keeps operating at an apparent temperature consistent with the initial temperature encountered. Not what would result from a change of say .2 or more Ω. Consequently, I started noting those instances as they don't always happen. It's a curious question and one I'd love to have an explanation for…

Perhaps someone reading this thread who has or can point to the possible answer would kindly pipe in.

I'm behind two Trident's and a new original VHO Helios I'm trying to get to as I'm focusing more and more on RDA's lately. At some point all the mass production tanks will get relegated to back-up status like the beloved AGR carto tanks populating my work area. But I will try and build a 10/9 30g on 1.58 and meter at the post directly. I occasionally do as I build but curiosity compels me.

:)
 

M_DuBb716

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Maybe I was wrong. My eyes are bad, so for me to be able to see and count how many wraps I made, I have to take a macro-picture with my digital camera and zoom in.. This is if I forget how many wraps I'm making while I'm actually doing it, which happens often..

But it is possible that my current 2.1Ω MC is only 9 or 10 wraps.. But I really thought that usually my 9/10's got me 1.8, and 10/11's around 2.1Ω.. I will measure the wire like you suggested. By the way, my finished microcoils are always very closely contacted - no spaces or anything usually
 

MacTechVpr

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Maybe I was wrong. My eyes are bad, so for me to be able to see and count how many wraps I made, I have to take a macro-picture with my digital camera and zoom in.. This is if I forget how many wraps I'm making while I'm actually doing it, which happens often..

But it is possible that my current 2.1Ω MC is only 9 or 10 wraps.. But I really thought that usually my 9/10's got me 1.8, and 10/11's around 2.1Ω.. I will measure the wire like you suggested. By the way, my finished microcoils are always very closely contacted - no spaces or anything usually

LOL M, join the club. I've got magnifiers and diopters everywhere. Gettin' to be I think I'm a jeweler. I should be so lucky, right. Nonetheless, you bring up a good point. The subject is mentioned about impedance in operation. How does it manifest itself? I appreciate your feedback. There's still much I have to learn. There's an incredible wealth of information on this forum alone. We could spend years here and not get to all of it, the both of us. So your feedback is appreciated.

Tryin' to get to it. Let's see if we can. I'd like to verify a few of my primary confirmations. These are instances where I had a min of 2 or more identical results on winds for a specific target (PT1), for example…

30AWG, 10/9 1.58mm i.d., microcoil = 2.23Ω√
30AWG, 9/8 1.75mm i.d., m.c., tight = 2.03Ω√
30AWG, 8/7 1.58mm i.d., microcoil = 1.81√
30AWG, 7/6 1.75mm i.d., microcoil = 1.78√
28AWG, 10/9, 2mm i.d. (2.5mm Silica), microcoil= 1.62Ω√
28AWG, 9/8, 2mm i.d. (2.5mm Silica), microcoil= 1.49Ω√

Lookin at the math (known res./inch, mm) real quick it appears the reads were good. The were logged off the bench, on the base. Then typically do not vary greatly on the mod. I've seen them break to the low or high side to the 1/10 ohm on both eVic's and Sigelei's without explanation at mount. Always suspect a short or intermittent contact. In those cases, I never logged as verified.

But there's never enough repetition to be sure.

Thanks so much for your feedback M.

Good luck and I'll be back.

:)
 

M_DuBb716

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Thanks again Mac, great feedback. But yes, I rebuilt another MC last night to double check on my results.. 10 wraps of 30ga Kanthal, 1.5875mm inner-diameter (wrapped on 1/16th bit as usual) - coming in at 1.9Ω on the eVic.. So I was right, my 10 wraps are always 1.9Ω, and 11 wraps always 2.1Ω.. I don't know why my results are different than yours?? But I'll look into it further

I noticed that I almost ALWAYS get an odd-number as my resistance, whenever I build a Microcoil for my PT.. I get 1.7Ω with 9 wraps of 30ga, 1.9Ω with 10 wraps, 2.1Ω with 11 wraps - don't usually get 1.8 or 2.2Ω readings, but it has happened.

I'll post pics of last nights build to prove my results
 

MacTechVpr

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Thanks again Mac, great feedback. But yes, I rebuilt another MC last night to double check on my results.. 10 wraps of 30ga Kanthal, 1.5875mm inner-diameter (wrapped on 1/16th bit as usual) - coming in at 1.9Ω on the eVic.. So I was right, my 10 wraps are always 1.9Ω, and 11 wraps always 2.1Ω.. I don't know why my results are different than yours?? But I'll look into it further

I noticed that I almost ALWAYS get an odd-number as my resistance, whenever I build a Microcoil for my PT.. I get 1.7Ω with 9 wraps of 30ga, 1.9Ω with 10 wraps, 2.1Ω with 11 wraps - don't usually get 1.8 or 2.2Ω readings, but it has happened.

I'll post pics of last nights build to prove my results

Thanks for the feedback. Good job. You are grooving' in there M. I haven't gotten to the builds yet but I will and shoot the result.

Good luck!

:)

p.s. Note, I am testing off the base only. Not the tank. I do both of course. But the base is my primary stat. Variations get investigated.
 

M_DuBb716

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Thanks Mac, you've been very helpful and informative.. Here's some pictures of the MicroCoil I built last night - 10 wraps (you can see if you zoom in on the pic) of 30ga Kanthal, tightly wrapped on a 1/16" drill bit.. Coming in at 1.9Ω, and vaping very nicely with cotton.
.... My previous 2.1Ω MC must have been 11 wraps, I'm 100% sure of that now.. And 9 wraps would get my 1.7Ω.

- The 1st Pic is my microcoil sitting in the Protank base, before I took the drill-bit out; and before I test-fired the coil and tightened it a bit with tweezers (squeezing while red-hot from test firing). You can count the 10 wraps in this pic
- 2nd Pic is my eVic showing me the resistance (1.9Ω) of this MC
- 3rd Pic is the finished MC; after I removed the drill bit, and after I test-fired it and squeezed the coil a bit tighter with tweezers. Before I wicked it with cotton
 

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M_DuBb716

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1,000 Views exactly!!

There's something else about the MC I was wondering about - I've watched a couple of this guys videos >> Mini Protank Micro Coil Rebuild - YouTube
... He says that he vapes his microcoils around 16watts!! My eVic only goes up to 11watts.. And he mentioned to somebody who had an iTaste MVP, that they shouldn't try building an MC, because their battery wouldn't give them the power they need.. He recommended that person build a NANO COIL, instead..

So am I missing out?? I usually vape them around 7 watts.. How much power do you send through your microcoils?
 

MacTechVpr

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1,000 Views exactly!!

There's something else about the MC I was wondering about - I've watched a couple of this guys videos >> Mini Protank Micro Coil Rebuild - YouTube
... He says that he vapes his microcoils around 16watts!! My eVic only goes up to 11watts.. And he mentioned to somebody who had an iTaste MVP, that they shouldn't try building an MC, because their battery wouldn't give them the power they need.. He recommended that person build a NANO COIL, instead..

So am I missing out?? I usually vape them around 7 watts.. How much power do you send through your microcoils?

I have the beginnings of an answer on the resistance question. And I'll post following this but I had to answer on Rip Trippers…

He's lots of fun to watch, very funny. And it really kicked my .... at first watching his videos realizing I just might be able to venture into more complex builds. Although here he's really talking about exploring the nether-nether (as in bottomless pit) regions of Protank performance. He's using expensive box mod's based on the DNS20 chipset architecture that most of us are never going to see. That push beyond the boundaries of anything practical for you and me upwards of the moon to 15W and above. I have no interest to empty my Protank in 60 minutes which is what vaping at that kind of energy/temperature levels is likely to do, cook my juice to that shade of chocolate mousse nor could most of us handle the nic result. But it is intriguing to watch the exercise and for me captivating. I enjoyed going to the circus, particularly the fire-eating clowns. He's a smart man. But we don't have to walk out on that tight wire. It's not for everyone. It's show business.

But his videos have inspired the imagination of a lot of people to explore contact coils. And that is a viable legitimate route to optimize the efficiency of the semi-rebuildable clearo's we most enjoy. I applaud him.

I vape mostly between 5.5-8W in the green zone. When I started I was rarely out of the blue. But I've started to enjoy a slightly warmer vape for my primary tobacco flavor.

No, what I'm looking for is a healthy amount of vapor and lots-and-lots of flavor. As complete a basket of flavor as the juice contains. That's what I'm striving to squeeze out with my builds, that optimum range for the Protank and others. The one that I believe most people will enjoy and be able to achieve with a modicum of technical ingenuity and practice.

That's what I'm trying. Researching that. Documenting that.

BRB

:)
 

MacTechVpr

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Hollywood (Beach), FL
Thanks Mac, you've been very helpful and informative.. Here's some pictures of the MicroCoil I built last night - 10 wraps (you can see if you zoom in on the pic) of 30ga Kanthal, tightly wrapped on a 1/16" drill bit.. Coming in at 1.9Ω, and vaping very nicely with cotton.
.... My previous 2.1Ω MC must have been 11 wraps, I'm 100% sure of that now.. And 9 wraps would get my 1.7Ω.

- The 1st Pic is my microcoil sitting in the Protank base, before I took the drill-bit out; and before I test-fired the coil and tightened it a bit with tweezers (squeezing while red-hot from test firing). You can count the 10 wraps in this pic
- 2nd Pic is my eVic showing me the resistance (1.9Ω) of this MC
- 3rd Pic is the finished MC; after I removed the drill bit, and after I test-fired it and squeezed the coil a bit tighter with tweezers. Before I wicked it with cotton

Thanks for the above. Intriguing. I agree. Time for show-and-tell.

I didn't have time to do any new winds. Since I have a dozen or so prior builds in the splash, I thought I'd hunt down a 10'er. Here's one…

IMG_0453a.jpg IMG_0455a.jpg IMG_0457a.jpg

This is a 10/9, 30AWG, on 1/16" with Nextel XC-132 @ 2.23 fully dried out of the drink for the first time. It survived 3 fills intact and relatively clean. It went in at 2.23Ω and come out exactly the same. You may also see it's indicated resistance on the desktop ohmmeter and on a Rev3 eVic as the typical downward default to 2.2Ω. This is pretty much what I'm getting on this wind M. Between 2.20 and 2.23Ω. Sorry for the shortcut but wanted an answer and short of time.

To have a better handle on my theory that I'm winding tighter than you I'll have to actually do a build and separately meter that at the posts. Along with that any other recent assemblies. Your lower res. suggests that you are somehow finding a way to use less wire somehow.

I know this observation doesn't help much. Sorry for the blurry last one.

I'll keep looking' at this. Regardless of your reads that's a great wind and you seem to be hitting consistent targets. Enjoy the outcome! And If you like we'll see if we can find an answer to this enigma.

Good luck!

:)
 
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