Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

[Garemlin]

Asked this on the general clearo forum but figured I'd throw it in here too:

Ok have a new found like for the PTII. So now I think I wanna try rebuilding some coils when the time comes because I am thinking about picking up a few more. I have watched many videos about building a microcoil. Which is what I think I want to do. So the building concept is taken care of. What I need help with is what materials, diameters, length and wraps to use. I want to achieve a 2.0Ω - 2.2Ω basic coil. I have looked at the Steam Engine calculator but there are variables I am not sure of.

So.....

• How much space is there to work with inside the head. As it what is the widest you can make a col before chance shorting it out
• What is the best inside diameter to use and what to use to wrap around to achieve that i.d.
• What gauge kanthal and how many wraps to achieve my desired resistance.
• Yarn or silica and what outside diameter??? I really don't want to mess with the trial and error of shredding cotton balls
• Flavor wick or no flavor wick. And should it be the same size as wick you use for the coil wick

I know many people make it even more simple by just wrapping around their wick. But I figure with a microcoil re-threading the wick will be much easier.

Sorry if some of this is redundant but I figure there are many of you that have discovered the perfect combination to make this as easy as possible. That is pretty much what I want. Build a small supply of consistently same coils and be done with it without trial and error.

Also on a side note I would ideally like to build a coil for use in the PTII that I could also try in the Nautilus head. Similar to what RipTripper did do rebuild one as a single coil.


And one more thing. I tried throwing a bit of cotton in to replace the silica flavor wick. I got muted flavor and cotton seems to irritates my throat. So I think I may stick with silica. I was looking on ebay and see many different types. Is one better to use than another???

 

[bover907]

Do what I just did, and buy a few different wicking materials to try out, and see which one you like the best. I bought 2 different sized ekowoll, and some plain silica wick, and also tried cotton.

I'm kind of new to this, so don't take this as gospel, but the irritated throat may be coming from dry hits. Maybe you put too much cotton flavor wicking in there which would choke off your wick, and give you a dry hit. My first impression making a cotton wick was like this, but then I used less cotton, and I got a nice moist great tasting vape, with seriously thick clouds. This was all at the same voltage and resistance as the stock coil/wick I rebuilt. The right amount of cotton thru the coil, and you don't need a 'flavor wick'. Once you vape your protank/evod without a flavor wick, you won't go back. The vaper is much better tasting, and much smoother on the throat.

I did a 5/64" coil, which allows the right sized cotton wick that no flavor wicks are needed.

 

[TFL!]

What I use 32 ga. kanthal on a 2mm screw 7/6 wraps, wick with 2mm silica which comes out about 2.2 olms.

 

[Garemlin]

What I use 32 ga. kanthal on a 2mm screw 7/6 wraps, wick with 2mm silica which comes out about 2.2 olms.

I take it a coil like this would work fine on a kayfun too. I am wanting to eventually multipurpose coils. And there is no issue getting the 2mm silica through the 2mm i.d coil??? I thought there needed to be a little give.

 

[sedge]

I thread cotton easily of course through microcoils.

How do you thread silica? Straw method? Are there other methods?

 

[brookj1986]

I thread cotton easily of course through microcoils.

How do you thread silica? Straw method? Are there other methods?

Take a little piece of plastic wrap, wrap tightly around the end of the silica, make the tip of the plastic wrap into a fine point/needle like, and pull thru. Very, very easy and highly effective in my experience.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.

 

[sedge]

Thank you. Will try.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Take a little piece of plastic wrap, wrap tightly around the end of the silica, make the tip of the plastic wrap into a fine point/needle like, and pull thru. Very, very easy and highly effective in my experience.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.

Thanks for getting it back on track brook.

Doesn't take long does it? For a thread to go totally OT on ECF.

Good luck.

 

[f1vefour]

It wasn't totally off topic.

I like rainbows but I hate skittles...wonder why that is?

Discuss

 

[TFL!]

I use a little hot glue on the silica on one end of 8" chunk and roll it to a point, push it through the coil, pull it till there is about 2" of the non glued end then torch with a butane torch. Pull in farther and cut it off, lay another piece in top, cut it off put top on and good to go.

 

[MacTechVpr]

It wasn't totally off topic.

I like rainbows but I hate skittles...wonder why that is?

Discuss

Caution: Interjecting some levity could drop your resistance.

 

[f1vefour]

It's jumping around a bit, improper termination caused by skittle dust in my grommet.

 

[bover907]

I use a little hot glue on the silica on one end of 8" chunk and roll it to a point, push it through the coil, pull it till there is about 2" of the non glued end then torch with a butane torch. Pull in farther and cut it off, lay another piece in top, cut it off put top on and good to go.

Funny! I walked myself thru the hot glue method you just described in my head, but never tried it. I figured I could put some hot glue on the end of my ekowool, let it cool like half way, roll it in my fingers to make a point, (much like the end of a shoelace), and pull it thru the coil. like I said I never tried it.

Take a little piece of plastic wrap, wrap tightly around the end of the silica, make the tip of the plastic wrap into a fine point/needle like, and pull thru. Very, very easy and highly effective in my experience.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.

I'll have to try this out too!

 

[MacTechVpr]

Wicking PT heads is a pita (microcoils anyway), but ultimately I also believe cotton is the best option.

Man have you changed your tune, lol. Way to go 54 tho. You seem to do them well.

 

[LazyBulldogge]

Alright, got me some Kanthal A-1 0.25 mm (30 AWG).
Wrapped 4 microcoils last night (with no contact lenses, at 2 AM) around my 1.5 mm drill bit. 11/10 wraps came out at 1.9-2.0 Ohms and they seem to be working great (durability unknown, of course).
Now it's just a matter of perfecting the amount of cotton - it seems like maybe I need a little less cotton with this size Kanthal, compared to the ones I made with 32 AWG

Edit: Oops, mistype, the Kanthal A-1, is 30 AWG, not 32, as I originally typed

 

[MacTechVpr]

Alright, got me some Kanthal A-1 0.25 mm (32 AWG).
Wrapped 4 microcoils last night (with no contact lenses, at 2 AM) around my 1.5 mm drill bit. 11/10 wraps came out at 1.9-2.0 Ohms and they seem to be working great (durability unknown, of course).
Now it's just a matter of perfecting the amount of cotton - it seems like maybe I need a little less cotton with this size Kanthal, compared to the ones I made with 32 AWG

Good job LB, congratulations. You're right in the zone.

30AWG, 11/10 1.58mm i.d., m.c. = 2.1Ω √ #292 MrOcelot
30AWG, 11/10, 1.2mm i.d., t.m.c. = 1.8Ω √ #601 Christopherja
30AWG, 10/9 1.58mm i.d., m.c. = 2.04Ω

The above are the closest validated low value winds for 32 AWG in that range. Two for standard formed microcoils and Chris' tensioned microcoil wrap. A tensioned wrap will give you the best durability and efficiency. If you haven't tried it I strongly recommend it.

If I can help at anytime tap me on the shoulder.

Good luck.

 

[Garemlin]

Good job LB, congratulations. You're right in the zone.

30AWG, 11/10 1.58mm i.d., m.c. = 2.1Ω √ #292 MrOcelot
30AWG, 11/10, 1.2mm i.d., t.m.c. = 1.8Ω √ #601 Christopherja
30AWG, 10/9 1.58mm i.d., m.c. = 2.04Ω

The above are the closest validated low value winds for 32 AWG in that range. Two for standard formed microcoils and Chris' tensioned microcoil wrap. A tensioned wrap will give you the best durability and efficiency. If you haven't tried it I strongly recommend it.

If I can help at anytime tap me on the shoulder.

Good luck.

I your opinion are microcoils wrapped for a PTII head ok to use on a Kayfun??? I'm not into fancy. Just basic and get the job done.

 

[brookj1986]

I your opinion are microcoils wrapped for a PTII head ok to use on a Kayfun??? I'm not into fancy. Just basic and get the job done.

I use the same basic process for my kayfun. The only key is that you need to make sure the leads go in different directions. Also, good to wrap the leads clockwise around the screws. Make sure the bottom of the coil doesn't touch the little center post.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.

 

[MacTechVpr]

I your opinion are microcoils wrapped for a PTII head ok to use on a Kayfun??? I'm not into fancy. Just basic and get the job done.

Absolutely. A coil is a coil. The target temperature (resistance) is what you're after. What's suitable for your juice flavor and vapor output (heat). Pick the coil wrap say...29AWG, 9/8, 5/64” i.d., t.m.c. = 1.76Ω (KPT)…and give it a go. You will find that resistance results will be a bit lower G, as the legs will be shorter on a Kay or dripper. Maybe as much as >.1Ω to the low side of what you'd see on the PT. But yeah, pulled 'em out of Kanger's and right into drippers like the Forge or Nimbus. If you skew a couple and it happens, save 'em if they're in good shape, retention the end turns (or drop 'em a wind if they're high) and use 'em in the tank. Tensioned microcoils translate very well since they're essentially fused by the oxidation layer from the beginning. So if you skew a leg and remove one the coil shape is more likely to survive it. You'll see if you try it and be pleased as they're easy to make, too easy! I've accumulated mounds of these coils and try to sort through 'em often for the good ones. They're like tribbles. They're everywhere.

Good luck.

 

[LazyBulldogge]

Good job LB, congratulations. You're right in the zone.

30AWG, 11/10 1.58mm i.d., m.c. = 2.1Ω √ #292 MrOcelot
30AWG, 11/10, 1.2mm i.d., t.m.c. = 1.8Ω √ #601 Christopherja
30AWG, 10/9 1.58mm i.d., m.c. = 2.04Ω

The above are the closest validated low value winds for 32 AWG in that range. Two for standard formed microcoils and Chris' tensioned microcoil wrap. A tensioned wrap will give you the best durability and efficiency. If you haven't tried it I strongly recommend it.

If I can help at anytime tap me on the shoulder.

Good luck.

Yeah, and I even botched my post, the Kanthal A-1 is 30 AWG, not 32, as I originally typed. So yup, pretty close to standard.
Takes a little longer to heat up at the same voltage as the 32 AWG microcoils, but that's pretty obvious, with the extra amount of wire used, I guess.
I'm struggling a bit with the amount of cotton to use in these, to find the perfect balance between not choking it, and not getting a shot of juice in my mouth/face on the first fire after it's been sitting idle for a while.
But I'll get there I'm sure, just takes a little more trial and error, compared to the smaller coils - or maybe I was just lucky with those
I haven't looked into tensioned coils yet, but I am wrapping them really tight, before torching them, so I guess I'm making "semi-tensioned microcoils"