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Not sure if he posted that video. Perhaps he sent you the link in a pm. In any case, it's not too different from the Superx video with the screwdriver. Instead of wrapping tape around the open end of the wire, you insert it in the chuck next to the drill bit, and tighten. It's easier than using a screwdriver, but the end result shouldn't be any different.
I think it was the superx video link he posted....
I have been hand wrapping on a 16 gauge needle. Not perfect every time, but the needle fits into the base. I set the coil, grommet, pin and twist the wires to trim. Check ohms - 6 wraps of 32 g or 10/11 wraps of 30 gives me about 2 ohm give or take .1. I dry fire to check for for hot spots and compress if necessary, then wick. Maybe not perfect for some but works for me for now...
I have been hand wrapping on a 16 gauge needle. Not perfect every time, but the needle fits into the base. I set the coil, grommet, pin and twist the wires to trim. Check ohms - 6 wraps of 32 g or 10/11 wraps of 30 gives me about 2 ohm give or take .1. I dry fire to check for for hot spots and compress if necessary, then wick. Maybe not perfect for some but works for me for now...
I have not found a video showing how to use them for coils. Someone else may be able to point you to one. However, I think the theory is very similar to what Super does in the outdated - Micro Coils 101 - Part One video. In the video he affixes the end of the kanthal to a screwdriver with tape, then proceeds to manually turn the screwdriver to wrap the wire into a coil. Although I have not tried it myself I believe you are doing something similar with the pin vise. The difference being that you can rotate the bit in the pin vise without manually turning the entire device like you would with a screwdriver. I believe the theory here is that you can maintain better control and get a cleaner/tighter wrap. Take with a grain of salt - I've never done this. I've just been trying to figure it out like you.
Thanks a bunch. This does make sense. I think much dry firing (or perhaps any) is not recommended, but it would certainly be helpful to be able to fire it lightly as a check to see if there are any hot spots.
I think it was the superx video link he posted....
I have been hand wrapping on a 16 gauge needle. Not perfect every time, but the needle fits into the base. I set the coil, grommet, pin and twist the wires to trim. Check ohms - 6 wraps of 32 g or 10/11 wraps of 30 gives me about 2 ohm give or take .1. I dry fire to check for for hot spots and compress if necessary, then wick. Maybe not perfect for some but works for me for now...
Yes he has linked the SuperX video in his tutorial. SuperX uses a screwdriver ( as do i, also use the cigatron coil winder ). There is another video he is working on, using a pin vise. Still haven't gotten around to ordering a pin vise !
Welcome scratch. To perfect a microcoil it's not merely helpful but absolutely essential that it be fired. And lightly is good for starters. So true that, definitely not fired too hot (or long) but at the exact moment that such is required. As simple as possible, but not simpler.
So it's a good opportunity to interject here because I'd like the definition of a t.m.c. tensioned (contact) micro coil to remain crystal.
A tensioned contact micro coil is one that has been wound with strain to the point of adhesion thereby assuming the shape of a coherent self-maintaining wind pulling itself taught. Like a spring, locked in the position it was wound by the heat/energy imbued in the element. However, it is not a true microcoil, anymore than one that was formed, i.e. by external pressure or heat, until it is pulsed to form the insulating alumina oxide layer which helps preserve its working geometry and resistance. The definition involves both of the criteria of form and function and applies to any wound vaporizing element created with strain which is self sustaining in geometry and exhibits the effect when fired.
While some of these definitions and explanations have been explored earlier in this and Metalhed's earlier Protank Cotton thread I thought it time to pull them together into a proper profile for the wind.
The pulsing of a t.m.c. is a graduated progression of brief pulses of no more than a few seconds beginning with low power (or very brief pulses on a mech) as cool spots, if any, are cleared; and, graduating to a full lighting of the coil end-to end about the point that the effect is achieved exhibiting a low yellow color return [transition light yellow to orange] when firing from center out until with the stepped application of additional power all turns glow in unison of color. In practice the end turns will typically emit in the high red zone, somewhat cooler than the central core. The progression is best achieved on a VV/VW APV to permit monitoring of interim changes and stabilization of the wind at target resistance as a cue to forego further burn-in.
While coils that are formed are certainly contact coils adhesion perfects an optimal proximity which ensures the maximum possible uniformity for oxidation. The wire may be wound tighter, to no significant advantage of which I'm aware, but may only be drawn thinner (perhaps weaker if excessive) beyond the point of adhesion.
A t.m.c. is not a coil formed by external pressure or compression in any manner or part, assisted by heat or not. To the extent that force is applied, the wire will attempt to resort to that geometry or orientation that was achieved by forming. Nor is a t.m.c. ever torched in any way which may impart impurities which could inhibit the uniform formation of the alumina layer compromising optimization of the coil's cohesion. It may damage the wire's surface as well also interfering with the potential for uniform oxidation.
That's the target. The cleanest wire build possible and the means to get there. Done right you get it in just about a minute between the time spent in wind and pulsing. No scrunching, no squeezing, no tweaking or fiddling.
Good luck to you all and enjoy.
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Sorry for a repeat here, but chanelvaps and Monotemata are correct in there advice! It is important for a proper coil build!
In order to maintain coil integrity it is necessary to set your coil in your base using the same diameter tool you built your coil on. This will help you not to disturb wraps and this is very easy to do without the tool in the coil.
This is also necessary to help create balance in the coil build when you tension the legs. I believe that most of us give a little tug on the excess leg material to center the coil and at the same time you are removing the possibility of slack or possible kink in the leg. This will help balance leg length as much as possible giving your build consistency across the coil.
Everyone has there own techniques on builds, but we will give you the tools to build the best coil you can. So wrap, set and tug on the legs. Then trim excess, dry burn and check for possible hotspots and wick.
Vape On My Friends!
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For those who have used both KGD and Rayon, what are your personal on wicking properties and flavor?
Do you honestly think there is any great difference?
Does KGD, because of the way it's combed (more linear than organic) give it any more rigidity than ball cotton?
Vape On My Friends!
Do you honestly think there is any great difference?
Does KGD, because of the way it's combed (more linear than organic) give it any more rigidity than ball cotton?
Vape On My Friends!
For most juices I am finding I prefer KGD. I think it wicks better than cotton balls and is easier to keep consistent to thread through the coil. I also use the cellucotton and it works fine, but I keep going back to KGD.
At the risk of sounding stupid--what is the diff in the Protank 2 and 3 aside from the coils?
I have not used Rayon. Cotton balls from CVS until I found KGD. Same as Clnire I find it easier to get a consistent threading with no bumps using KGD
I don't own either, but I think the big difference is the heads (dual vs single). Perhaps the other notable difference was the switch to a silicon insulator instead of the rubber one. Sun vapers did a pretty decent write up of the differences when the PT3 first launched although they reference a shorter version of the bdc. When it first launched I guess they shortened the chimney substantially. Never actually got one of those shorty bdc's.
What is the different between the Protank 3 and the Protank II.
Thanks to the gang for the comments and suggestions. I went another round with this tonight, and it seemed to work out better. I set the coil into base, trimmed, and tested before wicking this time. Coil seemed to be in good shape. So far its performing pretty well. Managed to get an extra wrap or so on there so it's coming in at 1.8 on the ohm meter, 1.7 on the MVP.
This is what the latest one looks like. Still getting some gaps - especially the end wraps, but they are getting better.
This is what the latest one looks like. Still getting some gaps - especially the end wraps, but they are getting better.
I am not sure why I get the same reading. But hey if ain't broke dont fix it lol.
It looks good just need to tension the legs when u put in the cup. Im going to be posting a video soon of a t.m.c and install for the PT2. Trust me my coils looked the same way before Mac got a hold of me and showed me the light.
When u fire the coil use tweezers or something small to pinch the coil together to help keep it together.
But great job so far dont give up keep trying. [emoji2]
Welcome scratch. To perfect a microcoil it's not merely helpful but absolutely essential that it be fired. And lightly is good for starters. So true that, definitely not fired too hot (or long) but at the exact moment that such is required. As simple as possible, but not simpler.
So it's a good opportunity to interject here because I'd like the definition of a t.m.c. tensioned (contact) micro coil to remain crystal.
A tensioned contact micro coil is one that has been wound with strain to the point of adhesion thereby assuming the shape of a coherent self-maintaining wind pulling itself taught. Like a spring, locked in the position it was wound by the heat/energy imbued in the element. However, it is not a true microcoil, anymore than one that was formed, i.e. by external pressure or heat, until it is pulsed to form the insulating alumina oxide layer which helps preserve its working geometry and resistance. The definition involves both of the criteria of form and function and applies to any wound vaporizing element created with strain which is self sustaining in geometry and exhibits the effect when fired.
While some of these definitions and explanations have been explored earlier in this and Metalhed's earlier Protank Cotton thread I thought it time to pull them together into a proper profile for the wind.
The pulsing of a t.m.c. is a graduated progression of brief pulses of no more than a few seconds beginning with low power (or very brief pulses on a mech) as cool spots, if any, are cleared; and, graduating to a full lighting of the coil end-to end about the point that the effect is achieved exhibiting a high yellow color return when firing from center out until with the stepped application of additional power all turns glow in unison of color. In practice the end turns will typically emit in the high red zone, somewhat cooler than the central core. The progression is best achieved on a VV/VW APV to permit monitoring of interim changes and stabilization of the wind at target resistance as a cue to forego further burn-in.
While coils that are formed are certainly contact coils adhesion perfects an optimal proximity which ensures the maximum possible uniformity for oxidation. The wire may be wound tighter, to no significant advantage of which I'm aware, but may only be drawn thinner (perhaps weaker if excessive) beyond the point of adhesion.
A t.m.c. is not a coil formed by external pressure or compression in any manner or part, assisted by heat or not. To the extent that force is applied, the wire will attempt to resort to that geometry or orientation that was achieved by forming. Nor is a t.m.c. ever torched in any way which may impart impurities which could inhibit the uniform formation of the alumina layer compromising optimization of the coil's cohesion. It may damage the wire's surface as well also interfering with the potential for uniform oxidation.
That's the target. The cleanest wire build possible and the means to get there. Done right you get it in just about a minute between the time spent in wind and pulsing. No scrunching, no squeezing, no tweaking or fiddling.
Good luck to you all and enjoy.
I will say that before ECF and MAC I would be confident in saying how I wrapped my coils was fine. Now I will do nothing but T.M.C period I use the same technique for every coil that I build no questions about it. Once the coil is wound takes less than 30 seconds really, and I get it into the cup i tension the legs one more time with my pliars install grommet tension again, and then install the pin. Coil stays together before i have ever fired it 9times out of ten the first fire is good heats from the inside out. Take my ceramic tweezers after the coil just got hot gently squeeze to ensure my adhesion and thats it and move on.
I will be finding a way to do a video here soon so I can show all the lessons that I learned. Knowledge is power and the more you know the more you grow!!
I will be willing to share anything I know with anyone here please dont hesitate to reach out if you need help.
Have a gret day all!
Happy vaping!
Jaime
This is what my first one looked like, so we're getting there. Thanks for the encouragement. Much appreciated Jamie.
I do not know how that first one worked, but if you understand what i am saying after you have wrapped the coil on your mandrel of choice take some pliars and gently tension the legs. The put the coil with the mandrel in the cup and gently tension each leg again, and remember let the legs stay in the natural state. Meaning whichever way they want to go let them stay that way and just gently tension them straight down while still on the mandrel. Leave the mandrel in until you have finished the install meaning the grommet and the pin are securly in place, and then you can either cut the legs off with knippers or twist them off. I personally twist mine off not chance of hot legs.
Now you would want to install on your ohm reader or device and check your resistance. Once you have check remember that number it may change slightly after you fire the coil. Now fire the coil on your device or with a torch this will ensure adhesion of the coils.
A good coil will all be touching and constant see the pic below that is what everyone of my coils look like everytime. Trust me when i tell you my coils never used to look like this they looked like yours above.
But you will come times when you are so frustrated it will aggravate you completely walk away and try another day.
But never give up keep trying and ask lots and lots of questions we all have been where you are and want you to get to where we are which is successful happy vaping.
Trust me when you get it you will know because it will blow your socks off i know mine did. lol
Good luck!
Jaime
P.S. Pm me if you have any questions or need help willing to help you get that coil right.
sorry for no pic damn computer is stupid.
Ok I have pic on there now this is what it should look like.
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Thanks Jamie. It's awesome that so many folks man (and woman) this thread willing to help out and share tips. I am getting reasonably good builds, but the consistency isn't there and there's still room for improvement on the ones that are working. Today I am taking a break from the PT building. I just recoiled and wicked the taifun for some peace of mind - it is sooo much easier. Rebuilding AT/PT coils is like sport. It's quite a bit more challenging, but that makes the good builds more rewarding.
One thing I have noticed since using a tension method is that I get a lot more hot spots. With hand wraps I never got hot spots or hot legs before. The coils were not as tight, but they worked fine in the taifun at least. It wasn't until I started trying to get the AT rebuilds going that I started torching, squeezing, and now using tension during the wrap. This is the method I used with the last taifun build, and I ended up with a nice tight coil that fired very unevenly.
I am guessing that there are points in my tension wrap process where there is more or less tension on the wire and this leads to some inconsistencies. Not sure of the science behind it so this is just speculation. In any case the hot spots are not fatal. I was able to work them out mostly on the taifun build with some raking and repositioning. No big - the coil is working like a champ. Just all part of the perfection process I suppose.
Thanks again to everyone for all the helpful comments.
One thing I have noticed since using a tension method is that I get a lot more hot spots. With hand wraps I never got hot spots or hot legs before. The coils were not as tight, but they worked fine in the taifun at least. It wasn't until I started trying to get the AT rebuilds going that I started torching, squeezing, and now using tension during the wrap. This is the method I used with the last taifun build, and I ended up with a nice tight coil that fired very unevenly.
I am guessing that there are points in my tension wrap process where there is more or less tension on the wire and this leads to some inconsistencies. Not sure of the science behind it so this is just speculation. In any case the hot spots are not fatal. I was able to work them out mostly on the taifun build with some raking and repositioning. No big - the coil is working like a champ. Just all part of the perfection process I suppose.
Thanks again to everyone for all the helpful comments.
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