ProTank Mini 2 Rebuild Flooding Problems

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bdbart

Full Member
Jan 7, 2014
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Gulfport, MS
So, I want to rebuild my attys, and not have to keep paying for new ones....reasonable right?!?!?

I keep getting liquid on my battery terminal from my rebuilds. Why? and how to fix it??




Just for clarification; I don't know if this has much to do with the rebuild problems; I use a Haka 1100mAh battery and Nicquid juice.

In my experience with about 20 Kanger coils, the quality of the coils from the 'factory' is 50% at best. Some of the coils last for about 2 weeks at most, while others last 3-4 days. I would describe myself as a heavy vapor user. And I contribute this to why the coils wouldn't last very long. Also, this is why I would like to rebuild the coils.

So I have tried to rebuild my coils with little success. My first attempt was disastrous; however, the problem turned out to be my battery. I was making the coils with too many 'wraps' and thus too much resistance for my battery to handle (the battery light would blink red as soon as I pressed the button). Well it actually was a little more complicated. At first the wraps were tight; i.e. - close enough to touch neighboring wrap/coil. I noticed that the 'factory' wraps were spaced apart, I tried this and the battery would accept the coil. So what seems to work is 6 wraps that do not touch.



I use 32 gauge Kanthal wire.

6 wraps that do not touch.

Cotton wick and/or Stainless Steel mesh

Now the problem is that the atty keeps flooding and I end up with juice on my battery terminal. I assume that this has to do with the wick. As such, I have tried numerous variations of the wick:

A lot of cotton in the coil only
A little cotton in the coil only
SS mesh in the coil only
A lot of cotton in the coil with a lot of cotton on top of the coil
A lot of cotton in the coil with a little cotton on top of the coil
A little cotton in the coil with a lot of cotton on top of the coil
A little cotton in the coil with a little cotton on top of the coil
SS mesh in the coil with a lot of cotton on top of the coil
SS mesh in the coil with a little cotton on top of the coil

I don't know what I am doing wrong (if anything). Can someone please point me in the right direction on how to alleviate the flooding problem? Anyone else experience this? Tips? Tricks?

Thanks
 

Btsmokincat

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Oct 10, 2013
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Waterville ME
I make 30 gauge 1.4mm diameter microcoils. I take a wisp of cotton and roll it very tight between my fingers and feed it through the coils until it is just snug. Clip the cotton and fluff each side with a toothpick to make fluffly little clouds on either side of the coil and fill the openings. I never get any flooding, gurgles or dry hits when I wick this way.

3coils.JPG

kangercoiltop1.jpg
 

Taowulf

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 9, 2014
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Bend OR
I make 30 gauge 1.4mm diameter microcoils. I take a wisp of cotton and roll it very tight between my fingers and feed it through the coils until it is just snug. Clip the cotton and fluff each side with a toothpick to make fluffly little clouds on either side of the coil and fill the openings. I never get any flooding, gurgles or dry hits when I wick this way.


Am I the only one that pictured Bob Ross making coils when they read "fluffy little clouds"? :laugh:

I can just see him setting the coil down and saying "See those happy little coils?"
 

HazMatt

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 12, 2013
446
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Columbia, TN, USA
Am I the only one that pictured Bob Ross making coils when they read "fluffy little clouds"? :laugh:

I can just see him setting the coil down and saying "See those happy little coils?"

Ahh, Bob Ross on PBS. I remember those days. Now back on track.
bdbart,
Considering that you never mentioned what ohms your builds are, I would definitely recommend some kind of ohm meter.

I have no experience with mesh but, lots with cotton. I use 30g kanthal and wrap micro coils on a 1/16 drill bit. I like mine around 1.6 ohms which is 7 wraps. I also take a little piece of cotton and twist it tightly. Then insert it into the coil, trim and fluff.

It takes a little experience to figure out the right amount of cotton. Too little and it will gurgle and leak. Too much and it will not wick enough e-liquid and will burn.
 

danny4x4

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Feb 22, 2013
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654
London
I don't have a mini 2, but if I'm right, the head design is about the same as evods, t3, protanks. You didn't mention anything about flavour wicks??? With bottom coil clearos, leaks usually occur because of gaps in the slot where the main wick and flavour wicks sit, thus allowing juice to flow in freely.

After you assemble the head, drip some juice on the flavour wick to saturate it and examine if there are any gaps in the slot. If you're using silica as the flavour wick, bear in mind that they may sometimes shift out of position if you draw too hard. Hence you may be using it leak free for a few tanks and then BOOM! It starts leaking. Thus I prefer to use ekowool or butchers twine for the flavour wick.

The leak from your conventional spaced out coil and cotton may be due to the cotton sagging down in between the spaces and gravity pulls more juice than the cotton can handle.

Finally, with bottom coil clearos, I find that it's best to roll the cotton tighter than what I would with other toppers. Simply because I have to fluff up the ends that come in contact with the juice in order to seal up the gap. (Hope you can picture what I'm trying to say)

These are just my opinions and what works for me. Keep at it and you'll be able to find a combo that works fuss free for you. Good luck!
 
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