Protank: when should the coil be changed?

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RedNBlack

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Aug 18, 2013
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I'm lucky to get 3 days out of mine! They are cheap anyways....
Kanger ProTank Coils (Authentic) - 5 pack - 1.5 ohms | FireCracker Vapor

Hey there dcshoeco and Herby,
Just a FYI, hang on to the old coils, once "the hobby" gets a hols on you, you may want to ttry rebuilding the old ones. Now when I swap out a coil, I will rebuild the old one and set it aside for the next rotation into the Evod BCCs. Helps a little with the "hobby costs". So says the better half......:blink:


Well, I didn't expect to have such a big number of answers ! Thanks !

I didn't talk about this before but, since I use a different flavor every day, I usually dismantle the clearo every evening and rinse it with hot water than let it dry during the night. Add to this a dry burn once every 10 days and that's probably the reason why this coil seems to last forever.
After buying the protank 2, I've never used the Protank (1) again. But after reading all this, I will probably put a brand new coil in it and test how it tastes. I'll give you my feedback down here.
 

Herby

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Oct 20, 2013
16
12
HCMC
Hi,
I'm back after trying a brand new coil in my good old protank 1.
After half a tank, my feeling is quite unexpected: I find that the 5 weeks old coil on the protank 2 is actually better than this new one; a little bit more vape and hit. Actually, there is almost no difference and I think that the only difference I feel comes from the difference between the protank 1 and the protank 2. In the end, after 5 weeks with an average of 1 tank per day, my first coil is still as good as a brand new one. And I still have 8 new coils ready to be used. If they are all as good as this one, it should last years! Yeah!
 

Obi Wan Vapori

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If I throw on a fresh battery and I'm still getting poor drags.. I usually change em then..

One thing you have to watch on the Kanger bottom coil tanks is that even with washing and dry burning gunk will build up under the coil where it's really hard to see and it will block the air passage. When I clean mine I work a needle or one of those toothpicks that has fibers on them (you can find them in almost any toothbrush section) up through the bottom of the head to break it up. If you hold the head up and can not see light through the air passage you still have some cleaning to do.
 

DaveP

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May 22, 2010
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A pack of 5 heads costs roughly the same as a pack of XL stainless cartos, so I treat them as such. I usually change my head after 2 or 4 days or whenever a wash and dry burn doesn't reveal a clean coil. I pop off the knurled tube, run them under hot water for about a minute, and then dry burn until I see a red glow, then pulse until there's no more smoke rising. Usually one dry burn restores flavor. After that, they don't recover so well and I toss them in a bag for recoiling.

I bought some 32ga Kanthal and 2mm silica rope wicking. I can recoil over a doubled 2mm rope wick and use it without the flavor wicks. Flavor and vapor are about the same as a new head. I just insert it in the slot and trim the ends with a side cutter. I still like the convenience of the pre-made heads, but do some recoiling to balance out costs and for backup when I'm out of new heads.
 
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Obi Wan Vapori

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Someone around here recommended to use a brush after dryburn, so recently I started using the 2mm Colgate interdental brush to clean the coil both inside and outside. They are flexible and very gentle, you can easily go everywhere with it.

Colgate Total Interdental Brushes 2mm Very Fine: Amazon.co.uk: Health & Personal Care

I use a toothbrush also but really like the toothpick ones. They are so small they fit inside the coil to scrub it out. I was surprised how much gunk was on the inside. These are the ones I use but there's lot's of different kinds.


Scrub Betweens | DenTek Oral Care
 

Subdivisions

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Oct 23, 2013
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+1 on Obi Wans suggestion. The other thing I think people don't take into account is the wick going through the coil. You can dry burn the silica and it looks nice and white on the ends but pull it out with some tweezers and you'll see some black under the coil. Crud builds up in the wick over time and no amount of dry burning is going to get it out. That causes bad wicking which equals low vapor, bad taste, burnt hits. You can rewick the stock coil with some cotton. I find it produces more vapor and better flavor
 

dcshoeco

Full Member
Nov 25, 2012
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Michigan
Hey there dcshoeco and Herby,
Just a FYI, hang on to the old coils, once "the hobby" gets a hols on you, you may want to ttry rebuilding the old ones. Now when I swap out a coil, I will rebuild the old one and set it aside for the next rotation into the Evod BCCs. Helps a little with the "hobby costs". So says the better half......:blink:

I already do the micro coil with coton thing. When I get lazy and don't feel like rebuilding I will pop in a stock coil.
 

AcePKT

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Oct 4, 2013
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Glad I cam across this thread. For me performance is noticeably diminished before the end of the second day. So I have been using an new coil every couple of days but I have been saving the old ones cuz they were all still working. Figured if I run out I'd have a supply of at least usable ones. Finding out I can revive the performance with a dry burn is good news!
 

DaveP

PV Master & Musician
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May 22, 2010
16,733
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Central GA
Time has been hard to pin down lately but I intend to recoil about 25 heads I currently have in a zip lock. An eye loupe is a good thing to have for winding coils neatly. That, or one of those shop magnifiers that leave both hands free.

I probably need to find some 4mm silica wicks so that I don't have to double the 2mm to fill the slot in a Kanger head. Sliding a coil wound on a nail over a folded rope wick is a losing proposition.
 

Obi Wan Vapori

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Sep 4, 2013
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Time has been hard to pin down lately but I intend to recoil about 25 heads I currently have in a zip lock. An eye loupe is a good thing to have for winding coils neatly. That, or one of those shop magnifiers that leave both hands free.

I probably need to find some 4mm silica wicks so that I don't have to double the 2mm to fill the slot in a Kanger head. Sliding a coil wound on a nail over a folded rope wick is a losing proposition.

What I do is put a 2 inch piece of thread about halfway down whatever I am going to use for wick. Fold the thread over the wick, wet the end of the thread in my mouth and slide it through the coil like threading a needle. Start pulling on the thread and drag the wick through. Quick, fast, easy.
 

madqatter

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Sep 14, 2013
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What is the proper correct effectively clean protank?
Warm water works well. Soak in cheap vodka or pure grain alcohol, if you want, followed by a rise.

Regarding coil heads, I've been rotating mine. Whenever I change the flavor, I pop in a clean head and soak the used head. I like to give any gunk that will dissolve more time to dissolve. :)
 

bhswmc01

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I have 12 evod tanks, 1 protank 2, and 1 protank 2 mini. In the 4 months that I've been vaping, I only have 3 heads in my 'to be rebuilt' bag. Since I like to rotate flavors a lot, by the end of the week I generally have a few tanks that need cleaning (I don't change flavors in a used tank). All I do is rinse the tank in hot tap water and let them dry overnight. For the heads, I rinse them, then soak them in some cheap vodka (have a little tupperware and reuse the vodka until it gets really discolored) for a half hour. After that, another quick rinse in hot tap water and overnight dry, and I'm good to go! I've never tried dry burning, I'm sure it works well, as well.
 
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