The public has spoken!!!!!!
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The public has spoken!!!!!!
Well, I had to change my order. I first ordered the dna 30, but realized it only came with a 2100 mAh battery. I wanted the 2900 mAh work horse, so I changed it.
Black with Gray Trim.
Just waiting on PV to send me my payment instructions and quote.
I really hope ProtoVapor sells enough of these to stay around for awhile.
As far as the battery goes. For those of you who have taken it apart, how hard does it look to do yourself. This is important as I don't want a device with a battery that dies after two years only to find that ProtoVapor has pulled up their tent pegs and packed it in.
Also I hear the Ego to 510 adapter that comes with the low profile unit has an adjustable pin. Is this true? Also does the Ego/510 adapter have 510 threads too? If so, I just might use that adapter and my Protank beauty ring by default so that I can put all the wear and tear on an adapter that I can easily replace.
Black with Gray Trim.
Just waiting on PV to send me my payment instructions and quote.
I really hope ProtoVapor sells enough of these to stay around for awhile.
As far as the battery goes. For those of you who have taken it apart, how hard does it look to do yourself. This is important as I don't want a device with a battery that dies after two years only to find that ProtoVapor has pulled up their tent pegs and packed it in.
Also I hear the Ego to 510 adapter that comes with the low profile unit has an adjustable pin. Is this true? Also does the Ego/510 adapter have 510 threads too? If so, I just might use that adapter and my Protank beauty ring by default so that I can put all the wear and tear on an adapter that I can easily replace.
My educated guess is that it's a going one-person (or one person plus a helper) concern. My (non vape related) business started that way too. It's a bit bigger than that now. If Paul is reading this, I have one piece of advice for him: Keep your overhead low!
I have not take mine apart, but have looked at other people's pictures and do not see a big issue replacing the battery. If the time comes and Protovapor isn't around (perish the though) and you don't have the skills, well somebody will be able to do it for you, either as a favor, or for a nominal fee.
The mod side of that adapter's pin is slotted, so I assume it's adjustable.
Yes.
Well, you might save wear and tear on the XPV's 501 threads that way, but structurally, I don't think you'd be doing the XPV any favors. What you'd be doing is giving your topper a longer lever-arm on the XPV's 501 connector, and without the possibility of transferring any of the forces directly into the mod's top-plate (by the topper being in contact with that plate). Also, a full-sized topper like my R91 looks positively perched up ~1/2" above the mod.
Well, you might save wear and tear on the XPV's 501 threads that way, but structurally, I don't think you'd be doing the XPV any favors. What you'd be doing is giving your topper a longer lever-arm on the XPV's 501 connector, and without the possibility of transferring any of the forces directly into the mod's top-plate (by the topper being in contact with that plate). Also, a full-sized topper like my R91 looks positively perched up ~1/2" above the mod.
If I remember correctly, the recessed 510 connector does not sit flush, so a top heavy topper is still going to excert force on the 510 connector, but with a shorter lever arm.
I'm kind of rethinking my position. I might want the Ego/510 version instead of the recessed one because then the attached beauty rings will be able to transfer some of the force to the case.....Plus the eGo/510 version has a built in adjustable pin.
I don't want to change my order again. I might end up confusing them.
She will be doing some of the reviews or at least have a bigger part, but a dna 20 mod isn't really up her alley.
For all you guys that hated it so much, you are more than welcome to do a review of it because this product obviously needs it.
Cracks me up cause I'm in tons of Fb vaping groups and parts of other forums, but it's always ECF where people are the most negative and bitter.
It's like the place that all the old school, bitter, grumpy, know-it-all vapers go to die. Lol
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Oh!?!?! we have met??
lmaoSeriously though, I have no problem with ANYBODY doing a review, as long as you give clear, concise, and ACCURATE info (Long story about a "Famous" reviewer which really rubbed me the wrong way) which you clearly did.
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I didn't hate it. It's just that she seems to have more personality than you do.
Content: The XPV you reviewed is missing one of the best features you can get in this mod: The pocket clip! Also what you didn't tell us is how old yours is. Mine is SN 0119 and I've never had an issue with the 510 o-ring, so I've never bothered installing the red one. And another tip: If you apply an even amount of torque to the bottom screws when you re-assemble, chances are the XPV will "rock" when you stand it up. Some of the screws will need to be torqued a bit more than others in order to get them all on the same plane and have a mod that stands steady on all four of its "feet".
I didn't hate it. It's just that she seems to have more personality than you do.
Content: The XPV you reviewed is missing one of the best features you can get in this mod: The pocket clip! Also what you didn't tell us is how old yours is. Mine is SN 0119 and I've never had an issue with the 510 o-ring, so I've never bothered installing the red one. And another tip: If you apply an even amount of torque to the bottom screws when you re-assemble, chances are the XPV will "rock" when you stand it up. Some of the screws will need to be torqued a bit more than others in order to get them all on the same plane and have a mod that stands steady on all four of its "feet".
Haha I'll get better in time and show my personality more. In the beginning of the video I say that I've had it for a month and a half.
In the description I talked about the o ring a little more. I didn't want people to think that it was something they had to do. Kinda depends on how often they are popping tanks on and off. At some point though I think a lot of people will need to do it. The o ring in there is super flimsy. Protovapor told me they are thinking about installing the red o ring on all future mods.
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That wasn't directed at you man! I linked to yours cause I at first was talking about Vanessa. And it was a joke!
I wanna hear the story!
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Yes, and the torque it's able to apply can be limited by padding the base of your atty with some UHMW tape; however much it takes to get it to contact the mod's base plate right about the same time that the 510 center pin makes contact. I've done with a couple of the toppers that I use my Vaporshark because the 510 connector in it has some wiggle that was driving me nuts. I've not bothered with the Squape or R91 that I normally use on my XPV because they feel totally solid despite a very small gap to the top plate.
If you're going to run something like a KFL on it, I think that would be a mistake.
Anyway, in the interest of science, I've opened mine up to see how difficult it would be to replace the 510 connector. We can readily see why it's so solid. It's soldered directly to the (steel?) top-plate:
If anyone else has questions or anything they want to see inside of this before I put it back together, now would be the time to ask.
Yes, and the torque it's able to apply can be limited by padding the base of your atty with some UHMW tape; however much it takes to get it to contact the mod's base plate right about the same time that the 510 center pin makes contact. I've done with a couple of the toppers that I use my Vaporshark because the 510 connector in it has some wiggle that was driving me nuts. I've not bothered with the Squape or R91 that I normally use on my XPV because they feel totally solid despite a very small gap to the top plate.
If you're going to run something like a KFL on it, I think that would be a mistake.
Anyway, in the interest of science, I've opened mine up to see how difficult it would be to replace the 510 connector. We can readily see why it's so solid. It's soldered directly to the (steel?) top-plate:
If anyone else has questions or anything they want to see inside of this before I put it back together, now would be the time to ask.
Show us how the battery is connected? User replaceable? Need soldering skills or just some adhesive.....
Well, that depends. If you buy a replacement battery from Protovapor, I expect it will have the leads and connector already soldered onto it. That means you can just plug it in. OTOH, if you wish to supply your own replacement battery, you will have to do some soldering. Anyway, here's a close-up with the battery removed and unplugged:
Well, that depends. If you buy a replacement battery from Protovapor, I expect it will have the leads and connector already soldered onto it. That means you can just plug it in. OTOH, if you wish to supply your own replacement battery, you will have to do some soldering. Anyway, here's a close-up with the battery removed and unplugged:
I emailed Proto a week ago about this, and yes, they said they would ship the battery to us with the leads and connectors attached. If not, the user can solder it themselves. When it comes time, I think I'll go with the already-assembled batt from Proto, as I currently have no other need for a soldering kit.
Looks really solid. Any areas of concern? It looks as if they did their homework on this. I don't see any cut corners.
I can't wait till they give me payment instructions......Aloha!!!
I can't wait till they give me payment instructions......Aloha!!!
Actually, there looks to be a cut corner -- on the charger board -- to gain a bit of clearance.
I didn't like the way the battery's ground lead wanted to touch the DNA board. I don't know if it was exactly like that when I took it apart, but that's the position it wanted to go back together in. Now sure, that lead is an insulated wire, but I don't like wires potentially rubbing on components, so any case, cut a piece of UHMW tape and placed it between the wire and the board (with the backing still on it, it's being held in place by friction only, no adhesive). Also the DNA board was in closer proximity to the threads of one of the top screws than I liked. There looked to be some Kapton tape separating them, but Kapton doesn't have much meat to it, so now there's a piece of UHMW tape stuffed in there too. Anyway, I can't imagine anything going wrong here that can't be fixed by someone who's handy with a soldering iron. If I were of a mind to buy spare parts for it, I'd get a whole top-plate assembly (including the 510 connector), a charger board (primarily because the micro-USB connector is a worry in the long term) and perhaps a whole spare DNA-20 board (I will have three DNA-20 mods soon, so a spare DNA-20 board kinda makes sense, no?)
Anyway, it's all back together now and I'm happily vaping it.
Actually, there looks to be a cut corner -- on the charger board -- to gain a bit of clearance.
I didn't like the way the battery's ground lead wanted to touch the DNA board. I don't know if it was exactly like that when I took it apart, but that's the position it wanted to go back together in. Now sure, that lead is an insulated wire, but I don't like wires potentially rubbing on components, so any case, cut a piece of UHMW tape and placed it between the wire and the board (with the backing still on it, it's being held in place by friction only, no adhesive). Also the DNA board was in closer proximity to the threads of one of the top screws than I liked. There looked to be some Kapton tape separating them, but Kapton doesn't have much meat to it, so now there's a piece of UHMW tape stuffed in there too. Anyway, I can't imagine anything going wrong here that can't be fixed by someone who's handy with a soldering iron. If I were of a mind to buy spare parts for it, I'd get a whole top-plate assembly (including the 510 connector), a charger board (primarily because the micro-USB connector is a worry in the long term) and perhaps a whole spare DNA-20 board (I will have three DNA-20 mods soon, so a spare DNA-20 board kinda makes sense, no?)
Anyway, it's all back together now and I'm happily vaping it.
Hey, i'm not very technical. Just wondering what you mean when you say a charger board. What do they do and what is the benefit over a usb connector.
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