I received my provari mini and I really like it. I have one issue though, it came with a very dirty battery connector inside. It appears to be some sort of gunk residue and I was unable to clean it even with iso alcohol.
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You mean way up inside? I just looked up in there with a flashlight and mine looks shiny. never would have even thought to do that. Man, you're inquisitive.
best regards, larry mac
best regards, larry mac
Not the threads that screw the cap on/off. I was referring to the positive connector inside that makes the connection to the battery. It's some sort of gunky sticky residue. The Provari still works fine, just worried this may cause issues somewhere down the line. I tried soaking a q tip with iso alcohol but that stuff just doesnt come off.
This likely has nothing to do with the OP's situation (personally, I'm guessing Noalox), but i iz princess and know secret stuff, so I figured I'd share this.
ProVari actually uses two different internal battery connectors. I first heard about it in March 2013. A member only had his ProVari for a short time when it started having a firing problem. While examining it and comparing it to his other ProVari, he notices the connector was different. He assumed that was the problem. When he got it back from ProVape they said it was a problem with the board, which they fixed, but when he checked inside the connector still looked wrong (even though it performed fine).
He contacted ProVape and after the CS rep talked to tech support he was told that they were/are using different connectors, but they work the same. It wasn't clear if ProVape was trying out a new connector or switching over, or what. As I said, this was in March, so I don't know if it's still going on, but since you are sticking flashlights into your mods I thought I'd mention it.
Mine are both round, which is the common shape.
Round:
Rectangle:
ProVari actually uses two different internal battery connectors. I first heard about it in March 2013. A member only had his ProVari for a short time when it started having a firing problem. While examining it and comparing it to his other ProVari, he notices the connector was different. He assumed that was the problem. When he got it back from ProVape they said it was a problem with the board, which they fixed, but when he checked inside the connector still looked wrong (even though it performed fine).
He contacted ProVape and after the CS rep talked to tech support he was told that they were/are using different connectors, but they work the same. It wasn't clear if ProVape was trying out a new connector or switching over, or what. As I said, this was in March, so I don't know if it's still going on, but since you are sticking flashlights into your mods I thought I'd mention it.
Mine are both round, which is the common shape.
Round:
Rectangle:
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Gunky and sticky? Did it stick to the q-tip when you put it down there?
I have the round connector. And yes it did have a sticky feel to it. Almost like resin. I had limited success trying to scrape it with a sharp object and got some of it off but most of the residue still remains. I gotta tell you, that stuff is as strong as the provari itself lol.
It's working fine, correct? It's just how it looks? If it was me, I would leave it alone. Maybe God put it there. If it's not causing a performance problem, you might be obsessing just a tad.
Yeah, it works fine just want to keep everything in top shape you know? It's been recommended to keep the threads and connectors clean.
I wonder if it's just rosin flux left over from their soldering... It *should* come of with iso prop alcohol.
Rosin flux looks like our brown vape juice, but it is sticky and not oily...
I'd be surprised if it was Rosin flux, I thought they would've thought they used a RoHS compliant assembly and manufacturing (lead free) to be compliant with the Euro regulation on all things electronic...
Rosin flux looks like our brown vape juice, but it is sticky and not oily...
I'd be surprised if it was Rosin flux, I thought they would've thought they used a RoHS compliant assembly and manufacturing (lead free) to be compliant with the Euro regulation on all things electronic...
You using 99% isopropyl alcohol?
The high % is important!
The 99% is much, much better at cleaning. I promise.
Tapped out
You using 99% isopropyl alcohol?
The high % is important!
The 99% is much, much better at cleaning. I promise.
Tapped out
+1
No advantage for disinfecting, but at my work, we use the 90%+ Isopropyl to clean our printed circuit boards...
xHaze,
My ProVari is a couple of weeks old, maybe a little older I have lost track already. But mine looks exactly like the round one in the picture that Ocelot posted and it is just as dirty as the one in the picture. Mine like your works just fine and why I have not obsessed over it I don't know normally something like that would get my OCD up to 10 on a scale 0-10.
I tried 91% Alcohol to clean it to no effect. I may go by a hobby shop where I should be able to get a small bottle of acetone and see what that does. I don't like keeping pint cans of that stuff around the house. If it gets out of its container it will destroy almost any thing that it comes in contact with except glass and metals. I won't even go into how extremely flammable it is.
By the way I have worked in electronic all my life and like one of the other posters said if it is solder flux the alcohol should remove it. but if it is some special flux used with the none lead based solder (or whatever they call it now) it may take something a little stronger. If you or anyone that reads this decides to try acetone make sure the Q-tip is just damp. Caveat: You do not want to drip or squeeze any acetone down into the board or let it come in contact with any plastic parts i.e. the "Fire Button and mechanism".
My ProVari is a couple of weeks old, maybe a little older I have lost track already. But mine looks exactly like the round one in the picture that Ocelot posted and it is just as dirty as the one in the picture. Mine like your works just fine and why I have not obsessed over it I don't know normally something like that would get my OCD up to 10 on a scale 0-10.
I tried 91% Alcohol to clean it to no effect. I may go by a hobby shop where I should be able to get a small bottle of acetone and see what that does. I don't like keeping pint cans of that stuff around the house. If it gets out of its container it will destroy almost any thing that it comes in contact with except glass and metals. I won't even go into how extremely flammable it is.
By the way I have worked in electronic all my life and like one of the other posters said if it is solder flux the alcohol should remove it. but if it is some special flux used with the none lead based solder (or whatever they call it now) it may take something a little stronger. If you or anyone that reads this decides to try acetone make sure the Q-tip is just damp. Caveat: You do not want to drip or squeeze any acetone down into the board or let it come in contact with any plastic parts i.e. the "Fire Button and mechanism".
I probably will leave well enough alone. Like I said for some strange reason it didn't spur my compulsive side. What I said in the post was just the ramblings of my compulsiveness run amuck.
Like the OP I noticed the apparent dirt on the contact the day I received it and it has been several weeks now and I haven't really thought about it much until I saw this thread.
Maybe my OCD has miraculously cured itself. Eureka !!!
I probably will leave well enough alone. Like I said for some strange reason it didn't spur my compulsive side. What I said in the post was just the ramblings of my compulsiveness run amuck.
Like the OP I noticed the apparent dirt on the contact the day I received it and it has been several weeks now and I haven't really thought about it much until I saw this thread.
Maybe my OCD has miraculously cured itself. Eureka !!!
Lumen Sees Totus - lux sanat
Ocelot, I am going to assume that what you just said is in Latin and of course flattering. Now I am going to bed before some Wild Cat claws my fragile bubble.
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