OK, I would like to strike back up this conversation sans voltage.
I really like the mini design better than the regular, but I'm wondering if it will be TOO small. I'm a relatively light vaper (1-2ml day), but I want it to feel like I have more than a chapstick tube in my hand. I'm using 650 Twists right now.
Maybe Mini + extension?
Ugh...first world problems...![]()
Still looking for a good pic of a mini w/ext next to a regular provari.
Any other advice?
Let's use 10 watts as an example:
1.5 ohm atomizer at 3.87 volts is about 10 watts. This would pull 2.58 AMPS of current.
2.5 ohm atomizer at 5.00 volts is about 10 watts. This would pull 2.00 AMPS of current.
Same wattage, but the lower resisted load would use about 30% more current stressing the battery more and draining it faster.
This is misleading, and treats the difference between 3.87V and 5.0V as "costless".
The battery provides a potential of 3.7V (it varies slightly over life of battery). The voltage adjustment from 3.87V to 5.0V does not happen with no additional drain on the battery.
To work out the drain from the battery (not from the boosted output of the Provari) you must use the battery potential. This is going through a power conversion circuit to boost the voltage, and will draw more current from the battery to provide the extra power.
If we assume the circuitry is able to do this at 100% efficiency (for the sake of simplicity) then both those examples would draw the exact same current from the battery.
1.5ohm Atty at 3.87V is approx 10W, This requires 2.58A at 3.87V, which means the battery has to provide 2.7A at 3.7V
2.5ohm Atty at 5.00V is approx 10W, This requires 2.00A at 5.00V, which means the battery has to provide 2.7A at 3.7V
You don't get "Free" energy by pushing the voltage up, doing so causes increased current drain on the battery in order to provide the required power.
Would it be accurate to say then that it is most efficient to operate near the battery cell's 'natural' voltage?
I would only be guessing at an optimal range, as I do not know any specifics of the circuit. I'm tempted to dismantle one of my provari's and work out its efficiency over some ranges, but, but.. it would pain me to risk damage to one of my precious's. I would be surprised if it varied by more than 3-5%, certainly not going to get 30% more battery life messing with voltage/atomiser resistance.
I worked out another way of describing it.. might make more sense.
If you use your 2.5ohm atomiser at 5V, you will be using 10Watts. That 10 Watts has to come from a single 3.7V battery regardless of the settings of your device (its the only source of power), therefore that battery has to provide 2.7 Amps (minimum).
Would it be accurate to say then that it is most efficient to operate near the battery cell's 'natural' voltage?
There is a small problem with this thinking. The natural voltage of a 3.7volt Lithium battery is anywhere from 3.2 to 4.2. That is one of the main reasons we choose regulated circuits, so we can keep it constant. So in almost any form, you are only going to be hitting that efficiency when the battery is in mid charge.
There is a small problem with this thinking. The natural voltage of a 3.7volt Lithium battery is anywhere from 3.2 to 4.2. That is one of the main reasons we choose regulated circuits, so we can keep it constant. So in almost any form, you are only going to be hitting that efficiency when the battery is in mid charge.
I went with the mini with extended battery cap. Fits nicely in my hand. But it was the teardrop pattern vs the fluted that was the deciding factor to me.
This is misleading, and treats the difference between 3.87V and 5.0V as "costless".
The battery provides a potential of 3.7V (it varies slightly over life of battery). The voltage adjustment from 3.87V to 5.0V does not happen with no additional drain on the battery.
To work out the drain from the battery (not from the boosted output of the Provari) you must use the battery potential. This is going through a power conversion circuit to boost the voltage, and will draw more current from the battery to provide the extra power.
If we assume the circuitry is able to do this at 100% efficiency (for the sake of simplicity) then both those examples would draw the exact same current from the battery.
1.5ohm Atty at 3.87V is approx 10W, This requires 2.58A at 3.87V, which means the battery has to provide 2.7A at 3.7V
2.5ohm Atty at 5.00V is approx 10W, This requires 2.00A at 5.00V, which means the battery has to provide 2.7A at 3.7V
You don't get "Free" energy by pushing the voltage up, doing so causes increased current drain on the battery in order to provide the required power.
The amount of total amp drawn, including the circuit amp consumptions needed to perform all the necessary switchings and calculations, determines how long the battery charge remains. The battery rating mah, milliamps per hour. So, the less amp the ato needs (high ohmic value) for a given wattage the better.
You get better battery life due to less amp draw for one.