Provari vs. Provari Mini...............

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TheSenator

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OK, I would like to strike back up this conversation sans voltage.

I really like the mini design better than the regular, but I'm wondering if it will be TOO small. I'm a relatively light vaper (1-2ml day), but I want it to feel like I have more than a chapstick tube in my hand. I'm using 650 Twists right now.

Maybe Mini + extension?
Ugh...first world problems...:laugh:
 

chohan

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OK, I would like to strike back up this conversation sans voltage.

I really like the mini design better than the regular, but I'm wondering if it will be TOO small. I'm a relatively light vaper (1-2ml day), but I want it to feel like I have more than a chapstick tube in my hand. I'm using 650 Twists right now.

Maybe Mini + extension?
Ugh...first world problems...:laugh:

I think you'd be quite happy with that... or perhaps I should say I am. I was carrying a twist 650 and my provari mini with extender cap is almost the identical length as the 650. Maybe just a few mm longer, just larger diameter and feels great in my hand. Of course the regular provari without extender is only a tad longer than the mini with it.

Btw, I work 12 hr night shifts and can make it all the way through the night running 3.0 Ohm carto/tanks or 2.8 heads in the vivi nova /w the 18490 battery. Not vaping constantly but I usually step outside every hour plus my three 30min breaks, ymmv.

cheers,
cho
 
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chohan

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Still looking for a good pic of a mini w/ext next to a regular provari.
Any other advice?

I looked but the closest I could find was the one in this post:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...292054-just-ordered-provar-5.html#post5953937

(sry mate, I haven't figured out how to post images yet)

If you can imagine that extender cap on the mini then you get a good idea of the length. The mini /w extender is 3.98" and the
standard provari without extender is 4.1". Pretty close but you still have an option of a bigger battery on the regular bringing it to 4.6".
It's just whatever suits you. I went with the mini for the length and I like the look of the matching color extender cap more than the polished endcap. I've heard from some who are the exact opposite, they really like that polished metal look on the end.

I think you'll love it whichever you choose. Also the green led will be offered again in about another month.

cheers,
cho
 

TheSenator

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Thank you for the dimensions Cho.

After some searching I did find this for myself (and anyone else in my predicament).
Seems like I can get it to almost the same length as a regular as you suggested, should I need to.

provari-mini-mit-extension-cap.jpg
 

belialNZ

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Let's use 10 watts as an example:

1.5 ohm atomizer at 3.87 volts is about 10 watts. This would pull 2.58 AMPS of current.
2.5 ohm atomizer at 5.00 volts is about 10 watts. This would pull 2.00 AMPS of current.

Same wattage, but the lower resisted load would use about 30% more current stressing the battery more and draining it faster.

This is misleading, and treats the difference between 3.87V and 5.0V as "costless".

The battery provides a potential of 3.7V (it varies slightly over life of battery). The voltage adjustment from 3.87V to 5.0V does not happen with no additional drain on the battery.

To work out the drain from the battery (not from the boosted output of the Provari) you must use the battery potential. This is going through a power conversion circuit to boost the voltage, and will draw more current from the battery to provide the extra power.

If we assume the circuitry is able to do this at 100% efficiency (for the sake of simplicity) then both those examples would draw the exact same current from the battery.

1.5ohm Atty at 3.87V is approx 10W, This requires 2.58A at 3.87V, which means the battery has to provide 2.7A at 3.7V
2.5ohm Atty at 5.00V is approx 10W, This requires 2.00A at 5.00V, which means the battery has to provide 2.7A at 3.7V

You don't get "Free" energy by pushing the voltage up, doing so causes increased current drain on the battery in order to provide the required power.
 

TheBlueAdept

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This is misleading, and treats the difference between 3.87V and 5.0V as "costless".

The battery provides a potential of 3.7V (it varies slightly over life of battery). The voltage adjustment from 3.87V to 5.0V does not happen with no additional drain on the battery.

To work out the drain from the battery (not from the boosted output of the Provari) you must use the battery potential. This is going through a power conversion circuit to boost the voltage, and will draw more current from the battery to provide the extra power.

If we assume the circuitry is able to do this at 100% efficiency (for the sake of simplicity) then both those examples would draw the exact same current from the battery.

1.5ohm Atty at 3.87V is approx 10W, This requires 2.58A at 3.87V, which means the battery has to provide 2.7A at 3.7V
2.5ohm Atty at 5.00V is approx 10W, This requires 2.00A at 5.00V, which means the battery has to provide 2.7A at 3.7V

You don't get "Free" energy by pushing the voltage up, doing so causes increased current drain on the battery in order to provide the required power.

Would it be accurate to say then that it is most efficient to operate near the battery cell's 'natural' voltage?
 

belialNZ

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Would it be accurate to say then that it is most efficient to operate near the battery cell's 'natural' voltage?

I would only be guessing at an optimal range, as I do not know any specifics of the circuit. I'm tempted to dismantle one of my provari's and work out its efficiency over some ranges, but, but.. it would pain me to risk damage to one of my precious's. I would be surprised if it varied by more than 3-5%, certainly not going to get 30% more battery life messing with voltage/atomiser resistance.

I worked out another way of describing it.. might make more sense.

If you use your 2.5ohm atomiser at 5V, you will be using 10Watts. That 10 Watts has to come from a single 3.7V battery regardless of the settings of your device (its the only source of power), therefore that battery has to provide 2.7 Amps (minimum).
 

TheBlueAdept

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I would only be guessing at an optimal range, as I do not know any specifics of the circuit. I'm tempted to dismantle one of my provari's and work out its efficiency over some ranges, but, but.. it would pain me to risk damage to one of my precious's. I would be surprised if it varied by more than 3-5%, certainly not going to get 30% more battery life messing with voltage/atomiser resistance.

I worked out another way of describing it.. might make more sense.

If you use your 2.5ohm atomiser at 5V, you will be using 10Watts. That 10 Watts has to come from a single 3.7V battery regardless of the settings of your device (its the only source of power), therefore that battery has to provide 2.7 Amps (minimum).

Sure, that makes sense. In terms of my question, it just seemed that since conversion by definition has overhead, the less of it you're doing (by operating closer to the cell's actual voltage) the more efficient you are.
 

Skyway

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Would it be accurate to say then that it is most efficient to operate near the battery cell's 'natural' voltage?

There is a small problem with this thinking. The natural voltage of a 3.7volt Lithium battery is anywhere from 3.2 to 4.2. That is one of the main reasons we choose regulated circuits, so we can keep it constant. So in almost any form, you are only going to be hitting that efficiency when the battery is in mid charge.
 

TheBlueAdept

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There is a small problem with this thinking. The natural voltage of a 3.7volt Lithium battery is anywhere from 3.2 to 4.2. That is one of the main reasons we choose regulated circuits, so we can keep it constant. So in almost any form, you are only going to be hitting that efficiency when the battery is in mid charge.

Ah, good point! I guess this is another reason why I'm not an EE, this stuff just doesn't occur to me naturally even though it makes sense once explained.
 

RoC1909

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There is a small problem with this thinking. The natural voltage of a 3.7volt Lithium battery is anywhere from 3.2 to 4.2. That is one of the main reasons we choose regulated circuits, so we can keep it constant. So in almost any form, you are only going to be hitting that efficiency when the battery is in mid charge.

Interesting. As someone else mentioned, thanks for explaining it so us "non-engineers" can understand it.
 

hitman4274

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I went with the mini with extended battery cap. Fits nicely in my hand. But it was the teardrop pattern vs the fluted that was the deciding factor to me.

This is going to be the deciding factor for me too, or should I say for my girlfriend, in the end as long as I get a provari all is well in my world.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
 

tybs_4045

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This is misleading, and treats the difference between 3.87V and 5.0V as "costless".

The battery provides a potential of 3.7V (it varies slightly over life of battery). The voltage adjustment from 3.87V to 5.0V does not happen with no additional drain on the battery.

To work out the drain from the battery (not from the boosted output of the Provari) you must use the battery potential. This is going through a power conversion circuit to boost the voltage, and will draw more current from the battery to provide the extra power.

If we assume the circuitry is able to do this at 100% efficiency (for the sake of simplicity) then both those examples would draw the exact same current from the battery.

1.5ohm Atty at 3.87V is approx 10W, This requires 2.58A at 3.87V, which means the battery has to provide 2.7A at 3.7V
2.5ohm Atty at 5.00V is approx 10W, This requires 2.00A at 5.00V, which means the battery has to provide 2.7A at 3.7V

You don't get "Free" energy by pushing the voltage up, doing so causes increased current drain on the battery in order to provide the required power.



You don't get "Free" energy by pushing the voltage up, doing so causes increased current drain on the battery in order to provide the required power.




I have to disagree with you belialNZ and the reason is simple.

Capacitors, Inductors, Transistors, and Diodes! These components come together to create the circuits needed for increased voltage.

Using a simple inductor in series with a DC source to increase the voltage in then store a higher voltage in a capacitor.

And that Sir is why i get better battery life when using a provari with a 2.5ohm atty at 5v
when compared to a 1.5atty at 3.7V.

If you dont believe me try it out and compare :)
 

Nicotinologist

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The amount of total amp drawn, including the circuit amp consumptions needed to perform all the necessary switchings and calculations, determines how long the battery charge remains. The battery rating mah, milliamps per hour. So, the less amp the ato needs (high ohmic value) for a given wattage the better.
 

tybs_4045

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The amount of total amp drawn, including the circuit amp consumptions needed to perform all the necessary switchings and calculations, determines how long the battery charge remains. The battery rating mah, milliamps per hour. So, the less amp the ato needs (high ohmic value) for a given wattage the better.

This was all explained earlier in the thread.

I was trying to explain to belialNZ from his post that there is no real(worth mentioning) increased drain on the battery due to increasing the voltage.
 
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