Encapsulating the coil within a Pyrex tube with then surrounding the tube with #500 mesh creates a very clean and consistent vape. In this instance, the wick itself becomes source of the vaporized e-liquid, rather than the coil. Heat is more evenly distributed over a comparatively large area, producing tons of vapor with minimal lag time, and very good efficiency.
The movement of air directly over the vapor producing region of any coil/wick, as is well known by genesis users, is critical to pleasant vape creation. This method addresses this issue and works like any other atty in that the configuration allows for air passage directly over the vape producing area.
So how to do this? While still a work in progress, I now have this nailed well enough that it's worthy of a discussion of how to build these, and seek feedback from other tinkerers that want to run with this and optimize this type of build inspired by Scudatdan's hybrid wick.
The tubes are tiny. 1.5mm to 1.8mm OD with .2mm wall thickness. Kimax(r) Glass Capillary Tubes, Melting Point: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
So making and getting a coil inside is shall we say a challenge. You will need magnification glasses. You will also need 1mm crimping beads, crimping tool (Micheal's), a micro torch, scissors, and a set of helping hands is, well, helpful.
Measure off about 3" of 30ga Nichrome or 2.5" of Kanthal. Crimp 2" of no resistance wire to what will be the positive end, and 3" of NR wire to the negative side.
Wrap the coil tightly around a small sewing needle leaving no space between coils. It'll be about 25 wraps and 1.5 oms.
Next measure the tube to be cut and make about the length you would normally cut the wick for your device. Heat both ends of the tube to flame polish with a micro torch. Don't melt the ends, just heat a second or two. This strengthens the ends a little and helps prevent cracking the tube when pushing the coil in. VERY TRICKY. Good thing the tubes come in packs off 100!
Next push the coil to the end that will be the negative side, which is also the end that will go down into the tank. Manipulate the wire that is sticking out of the other side such that the wire is centered in the tube. With the tube held straight up in the helping hands, use the micro torch to close the glass around the wire. Do this slowly and with the flame hitting down at the end of the tube from above. The glass will not make a bond to the wire. The object here is to minimize the opening.
Now slide the coil back up to the top until it stops against the now nearly closed glass. This is the top. This taper will help later on with sliding the wick over the tube as well.
Flip the tube over and put in a dab of JB Weld to seal the bottom end. Now what we have is a tube that is sealed at the bottom, with an ever so slight opening at the top. Juice must not be able to enter from the bottom!
So now what you have is this:
Before we get to the wick, in case you're wondering, the negative lead will come up inside the tank, through the fill hole, to the negative post.
DO NOT TEST FIRE!!! YOU WILL DEFORM THE TUBE!!!
Now the wick. Not much different than normal really.
Torch it unwrapped to add stiffness. Roll tightly around a large paper clip, or syringe needle. Then work it down over the tube from the tapered top end until about 1/8"-1/4" or the tube extends above the wick. Two reasons for this. One is so the hot lead doesn't short against the wick, and two when the wick bubbles up juice, it does no flow down into the tube. Again, we can not have any juice inside of the tube.
How much wick to use? Jury is still out on this one. In this case, I do believe less is more. Remember, the wick itself is what the liquid is primarily vaporizing on. This is clearly seen by vapor coming out from all sides, and not just the top of the wick. So to much, and more heat is needed to vaporize the juice. To little, and not enough. If vaped dry, the tube will deform, and need to be replaced. Been there done that as the old saying goes. 1" wide is what I've used. Next build I'm going to go with 1.5". Both fit without issue through my duds. 2.5mm hole.
This is what the final product should look like:
The movement of air directly over the vapor producing region of any coil/wick, as is well known by genesis users, is critical to pleasant vape creation. This method addresses this issue and works like any other atty in that the configuration allows for air passage directly over the vape producing area.
So how to do this? While still a work in progress, I now have this nailed well enough that it's worthy of a discussion of how to build these, and seek feedback from other tinkerers that want to run with this and optimize this type of build inspired by Scudatdan's hybrid wick.
The tubes are tiny. 1.5mm to 1.8mm OD with .2mm wall thickness. Kimax(r) Glass Capillary Tubes, Melting Point: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
So making and getting a coil inside is shall we say a challenge. You will need magnification glasses. You will also need 1mm crimping beads, crimping tool (Micheal's), a micro torch, scissors, and a set of helping hands is, well, helpful.
Measure off about 3" of 30ga Nichrome or 2.5" of Kanthal. Crimp 2" of no resistance wire to what will be the positive end, and 3" of NR wire to the negative side.
Wrap the coil tightly around a small sewing needle leaving no space between coils. It'll be about 25 wraps and 1.5 oms.
Next measure the tube to be cut and make about the length you would normally cut the wick for your device. Heat both ends of the tube to flame polish with a micro torch. Don't melt the ends, just heat a second or two. This strengthens the ends a little and helps prevent cracking the tube when pushing the coil in. VERY TRICKY. Good thing the tubes come in packs off 100!
Next push the coil to the end that will be the negative side, which is also the end that will go down into the tank. Manipulate the wire that is sticking out of the other side such that the wire is centered in the tube. With the tube held straight up in the helping hands, use the micro torch to close the glass around the wire. Do this slowly and with the flame hitting down at the end of the tube from above. The glass will not make a bond to the wire. The object here is to minimize the opening.
Now slide the coil back up to the top until it stops against the now nearly closed glass. This is the top. This taper will help later on with sliding the wick over the tube as well.
Flip the tube over and put in a dab of JB Weld to seal the bottom end. Now what we have is a tube that is sealed at the bottom, with an ever so slight opening at the top. Juice must not be able to enter from the bottom!
So now what you have is this:
Before we get to the wick, in case you're wondering, the negative lead will come up inside the tank, through the fill hole, to the negative post.
DO NOT TEST FIRE!!! YOU WILL DEFORM THE TUBE!!!
Now the wick. Not much different than normal really.
Torch it unwrapped to add stiffness. Roll tightly around a large paper clip, or syringe needle. Then work it down over the tube from the tapered top end until about 1/8"-1/4" or the tube extends above the wick. Two reasons for this. One is so the hot lead doesn't short against the wick, and two when the wick bubbles up juice, it does no flow down into the tube. Again, we can not have any juice inside of the tube.
How much wick to use? Jury is still out on this one. In this case, I do believe less is more. Remember, the wick itself is what the liquid is primarily vaporizing on. This is clearly seen by vapor coming out from all sides, and not just the top of the wick. So to much, and more heat is needed to vaporize the juice. To little, and not enough. If vaped dry, the tube will deform, and need to be replaced. Been there done that as the old saying goes. 1" wide is what I've used. Next build I'm going to go with 1.5". Both fit without issue through my duds. 2.5mm hole.
This is what the final product should look like:
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seals good and its away from the heat. My experiment didn't go to well because it was so close to the coil lol. Looks good man, I hope to turn a few of these out soon too. Ill leave feedback and my impressions when I get a chance. What are you using for the NR wire that can take the heat from the torch and not melt like the 99 silver does?
