Pyrex Tube/Inner Coil/SS Mesh Genesis Mod

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k3vin

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Ahhh ok thanks dsy.. I really like this glass coil.. Big D has basically got it down.. And I am liking the fireplace repair.. The next time I make one, I am just going put the fireplace repair stuff totally over the ends

I don't think the red silicone is going to hold up. The pg and vg seem to make it slick and it seems to lose its bond..
 

dsy5

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Got a working wick with the FQ. Coil is 2.3Ω (a little higher than I wanted). No silcone on top. When first dry burned had a bit of smoke and odd smell to it. Dry burned until I got no smell. Then dry burned some more. Put it in my AGA and did many wet burns. Slight lag, but not bad. 3.8 volts on the Provari.

Did a few Bill Clinton puffs, seemed a bit dry. Needed to tilt it more, but the wick seems pretty wet. Finally took an inhale and it tasted good, with a fair amount of vapor. Big D sent me one of his wicks and I'm going to try that tomorrow -


UPDATE: Just got an E1 and E4 error on the Provari - still reading 2.3Ω, so I'm not sure whats up with that - will investigate tomorrow, I'm tired.

Edit: Dang Provari intermittant button hit - ran the voltage up to 5.6V unwittingly. Too much current - back to 3.8V and working well again. Whew!
 
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Big Screen D

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Big Screen D

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update on coil...I may not of used enough waps of mesh,thought I got 3 on it.decent vape,but somewhat dry and a bit flavorless,but better to me than just using ss mesh..I will tweak it tomorrow and see if I can work the bugs out which I am sure are operator error..


Oh and I was looking up sealing pyrex tube to vacuum,and basically it's a no,no,unless you have proper annealing equipment.etc..etc..BUt also,I think it would cause issues with heat..and another thing I learned,about the only thing you can get to "BOND" with pyrex to make a vacuum seal is tungsten,and even then it is tricky..

Yes, getting the right wick configuration is the variable here. The one I made last night with more layers taste fantastic IF I drip on the wick. I just don't have the room in the wick hole for this thicker wick. Plus, this one is being used with 80%VG. Going to empty it tomorrow and put the same 50/50 juice I have going in the smaller wick version to make a true comparison.

With the larger hole in your AGA, I'd give a thicker wick a try. Also, be sure to tie off the top of the wick so that it is maintaining good contact against the tube.
 

Scottinboca

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Well you know me, I enjoy doing the research to find exotic and awesome materials for others to experiment with.:)
Tell me something your looking for and I will do my best to find it. I just stumbled onto that stuff looking for other things. I'm trying to find other materials for possible wicks. I found one, but it is used in other specific industries and has to be custom manufactured.
You hit the mother load Scott..some of the silver filled epoxy they have would be
Perfect for bonding nr to coils.. And that's just one idea... Most excellent find
 

JPoodles

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Well you know me, I enjoy doing the research to find exotic and awesome materials for others to experiment with.:)
Tell me something your looking for and I will do my best to find it. I just stumbled onto that stuff looking for other things. I'm trying to find other materials for possible wicks. I found one, but it is used in other specific industries and has to be custom manufactured.

Your not looking for porous ceramic are you? hehehe... I think cotronics was brought up in the original thread but couldn't be proven safe for foodstuffs??? not sure..can't remember and i'm unwilling to swim in that ocean anytime soon :p Anyway, not trying to burst bubbles. Good find! The castable stuff is perfect for making electrically insulated parts and we could fire them in the microwave kiln!:banana:but thats prob another thread..hehe
 

Scottinboca

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:lol: I'm crazy excited about those ceramic wicks! I'm just checking stuff out until they are obtainable. I'm also really curious to see what's out there.
Your not looking for porous ceramic are you? hehehe... I think cotronics was brought up in the original thread but couldn't be proven safe for foodstuffs??? not sure..can't remember and i'm unwilling to swim in that ocean anytime soon :p Anyway, not trying to burst bubbles. Good find! The castable stuff is perfect for making electrically insulated parts and we could fire them in the microwave kiln!:banana:but thats prob another thread..hehe
 

dsy5

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I didn't take any pictures while making the wick, but here are a few of it in the atty:

FQWick3.jpgFQWick1.jpgFQWick2.jpg

I was a little upset that I had so many fails with the twisting that I threw it together without taking any pictures of the wick itself. I am going to pull this one apart after I empty this tank and inspect for any seepage into tube. Also going to make a lower ohm coil. Since I only have the 1 piece of FQ glass left, I have to tear it down and start over.
 

Big Screen D

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Dang it, cracked another one. Really aggravating because as I type this, I vaping the same one I made a week or so ago and have ran probably 20-30 ml's thru, dry burned twice, and am thoroughly enjoying with just outstanding performance.

Not sure what exactly is the cause. Three differences between the good one, and the two I cracked. More wick making for a tighter fit through my wick hole. Thicker juice, along with the tight fit equaled dryer wick. The tubes are a little longer.

Only way to know that a tube has cracked is the flavor suffers, and vapor can be seen coming out of the tube itself. The mesh contains the glass, so you can't see the crack.

On both, the crack occurred right at the point that the tube leaves the wick hole. Going back to the tried and true of leaving more room through the wick hole on the next build.

Reading the below, I have to wonder about the quality of the borosilicate glass tubes I'm using. According to this blogger, borosilicate glass should be much harder to melt than what these are.

PYREX: Pyrex is borosilicate glass and is called "hard glass" by glassblowers. It takes a much hotter flame to work it successfully, making an oxygen-gas torch mandatory.
ADVANTAGES: No annealing required for most shapes used in tube making! In almost all cases just a few swipes of the flame across the joint as it cools is all it takes.
Very sharp break between soft and liquid state. The glass stays firm up to close to the point of melting. This makes it easier to support the glass. It doesn't have as much tendency to sag and deform as soft glass does as it is heated to its softening point.
Pyrex parts can be easily re-heated as many times as necessary using only the torch without cracking. This is almost impossible with soft glass.
7740 Pyrex is the most common of all glasses used in glasswork. It is used for all kinds of laboratory apparatus so it is stocked by many distributers in many sizes. Thus, it is possible to buy any quantity of the glass at cheap prices without having to buy a case minimum.
DISADVANTAGES: Pyrex is solid to a temperature beyond that achievable with an air-gas torch. Thus, it requires an oxygen-gas torch to work. This can be a problem because of the cost of oxygen and in some countries it is prohibited to have oxygen tanks in the private residence without a difficult to get permit.
The vacuum tight wire seal through the glass is extremely critical to make. It can take months or longer of practice for the new glass blower to successfully make seals reliably. Indeed, seal failure is the single most reason my tubes fail! After years and years of doing it!
 

k3vin

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Here is some stuff that would work great . It's from the site that Scott posted.. A 2000deg f.. Nickel alloy paste that hardens.. Would work great for at Least bonding nr wire to coil wire..

That site is excellent ... Again good find Scott..
http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/cm_machinable.htm

And this link from cotronics.. This link goes to the metal bonding.. Nickel and stainless steel are at the bottom of page.. Maybe someone could even call them and get some samples for n/c..
http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/ca_metallic.htm



Can anyone see prices? I can't on my phone..

Another thought is that their moldable ceramic material could be used to coat coils, and maybe even encapsulate totally the coil in the ceramic..


So who is going to call them tomorrow and ask the questions... Lol

Ok poodles posted this ceramic type material from this site..
http://www.sauereisen.com/ProductIndex.aspx
 
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TBinAZ

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I have to hand it you, Big Screen D, this rig you came up with is working pretty well with 400. Vapor is like right now. I thought for sure I was going to muck it up when I put it together, but apparently not. Mind you this is on an AGA with a huge wick hole. I just worked my way up from 3.0v to 3.5 so far. Kind of paranoid to go any higher. LOL.
 
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