Pyrex Tube/Inner Coil/SS Mesh Genesis Mod
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Tomorrow I will try the FQ with fp mortar on both ends - I kind of have reservations about having it in the juice, being not a food grade item and all. Or I can wait for K3vin to try it - if we don't hear from him in a couple of days, I can start looking for something else
[Sorry, Kev, bad joke...]
[Sorry, Kev, bad joke...]
Lol it's ok, I did try it tonight only cured it for about 3 hours.. Letting it sit so I can check in morning and see if any comes apart in juice tank... I tried picking at the repair in top if the tube with a needle under magnification ad nothing picked off of it......... Yet anyway.. Lol
One more thing.. When I rolled mesh onto the tube I sort if flared it at the bottom and it made it tight at the top and I did toast the mesh also..
I say stick with either the epoxy or the JB weld on the bottom. But that's just me talking.
Tomorrow I will try the FQ with fp mortar on both ends - I kind of have reservations about having it in the juice, being not a food grade item and all. Or I can wait for K3vin to try it - if we don't hear from him in a couple of days, I can start looking for something else
[Sorry, Kev, bad joke...]
Yea you may be right az...I will definitely be checking and double checking tomorrow...
It will pick apart with the needle, but it takes some work. I was able to remove it on the only piece I have left with a needle, but I don't think under operation that it will disintegrate or crumble. I have soaked it in water overnight on another tube to see if it would be easier to remove and it didn't even darken it, so I'm thinking it would be okay in the juice. But then again, who knows what PG or VG might do to it, or even some juices that crack polycarbonate tanks.
Edit: I would like to get my hands on some of that stuff that Scott found...
Edit: I would like to get my hands on some of that stuff that Scott found...
I think that a food grade silicone would work in the bottom, but with the way the hi-temp silicone acted on the top, I'm not so sure. It was very slippery on the glass. Epoxy could be good, if it can be removed for a rebuild.
Yea. Need to think about rebuild components..but man that is a smalllllllllllllll tube lol
Oh I got it... Silver solder... Oh never mind tube would get too hot and it would just run down.. Butttttt, it could be used on the bottom which would be kept cool jn the juice,.
Then just heat up the fq and it would drop right out..you wouldn't even need a soldering gun, just heat the very end of the fq
Oh I got it... Silver solder... Oh never mind tube would get too hot and it would just run down.. Butttttt, it could be used on the bottom which would be kept cool jn the juice,.
Then just heat up the fq and it would drop right out..you wouldn't even need a soldering gun, just heat the very end of the fq
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Ok, I just had to pull out the BSD element and have a look. It does have some juice down in the tube. It isn't bad, and I would bet it would last a good long time, but there is browned liquid around the coils. I will try to get a good pic, but I'm not a photography (or video) expert here. Maybe it's just the coils reacting to vapor? Big D?
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No, I'm pretty sure that when the juice that gets in the tube hits those red hot coils, it burns, baby. I have seen that happen with mine.
A tip for all you guys trying out the small FQ tubing - twisting the NR to the Kanthal is about the only way you're going to get it into that tube. And, you need some thin wire. I tried some of the 24 ga silver wire I had, and it is just too big. What I have been using is some stranded appliance wire. I strip off the insulation and use the individual strands. Someone also once suggested using the replacement stranded lamp cord they sell at Home Depot or Lowes. Anyway, it helps getting something as small as possible.
That reminds me dsy, radio shack sells some very high gauge coil winding copper wire.. And it is coated...that's what I basically saw in my dcc's when I took them apart.. Coated copper wire
Fck me to tears. LOL. I was messing with the BSD element when reassembling and snapped it midway below the coils. I was like whatever and kept assembling it. Still works a treat. Go figure. The annealed mesh does work a lot better,
The annealed mesh does work a lot better,
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Hmm. Must have gotten in from the top. Either the wick is a little to close to the top, and juice is making the climb up the tube. Or condensation collecting on the positive wire is running back down. Seems like an awful lot for one days use. Could be that with the wire between the tube and mesh, you have a little extra volcano action.
I do see where you had the small piece of wire around the top of the wick to close it off like I suggested, so maybe it is just a bit loose. Only way to know is to watch it as you fire it and see.
Bottom seal seems good, so I doubt it's from there.
Fck me to tears. LOL. I was messing with the BSD element when reassembling and snapped it midway below the coils. I was like whatever and kept assembling it. Still works a treat. Go figure.
Duct tape man
I built my very first wick using that, but I burned all the varnish coating off it. Then I got to thinking about copper supposedly reacting adversely with PG or VG and didn't use it again. The top end of the coil would probably burn off the varnish anyway, seeing how hot it gets. But on the bottom it would probably be fine.
This thing is still cranking out, so I'm not worried one bit. For now. You're right, maybe some super-go-fast tape is in order here. LOL
Kind of bummed. This thing was so purdy and all that.
Kind of bummed. This thing was so purdy and all that.
Duct tape man
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My BDS wick is still cranking it out pretty good. About through half a tank - will remove it tomorrow for a tube and juice inspection. Getting late here on the east coast, will slap keys with ya tomorrow.
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