What factors are involved to produce a coil with low ohms or high ohms? Does the gauge of the wire make the differance or the amount of wraps? Thanks for any advice.
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Yes thickness of wick wire length and amount of coils, but im new to this as well
Lets start from the back and work up (people that know something but not enough to answer OP)... i should know more but stand to learn something here too... since I know gauge makes a difference but not why or how.
I'll throw this info in... (someone will school us up)
- I just did a 3 wrap coil with 32 gauge wire on a tiny bit of slica wick for a Reo rba and got 1.4 Ohm
Some wire can have lots of wraps and get LR Ohms... i.e. looking at a Hybrid atomizer (hh357 1.5 Ohm) which has like 8 to 10 wraps.
So that should mean that a different gauge than 32 would be used.
I personally like the idea of lots of wraps and still getting LR Ohms, because like the flavor of a hh357 is famous... someone said that more wraps lets the juice make a nice long coating on the coil for better flavor.
So is it the thinner the gauge of wire that allows for more wraps and still low resistance (LR)?
I'll throw this info in... (someone will school us up)
- I just did a 3 wrap coil with 32 gauge wire on a tiny bit of slica wick for a Reo rba and got 1.4 Ohm
Some wire can have lots of wraps and get LR Ohms... i.e. looking at a Hybrid atomizer (hh357 1.5 Ohm) which has like 8 to 10 wraps.
So that should mean that a different gauge than 32 would be used.
I personally like the idea of lots of wraps and still getting LR Ohms, because like the flavor of a hh357 is famous... someone said that more wraps lets the juice make a nice long coating on the coil for better flavor.
So is it the thinner the gauge of wire that allows for more wraps and still low resistance (LR)?
I'm confused a bit myself, but according to the sticky http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo.../320042-resistance-wire-kanthal-nichrome.html at the top of this thread, it is the thicker wire (lower number AWG) that has the lowest resistance.
You made me curious, so I pulled apart on of my spent 1.5 HH357s and the wire looks incredibly thin, thinner than the 32 I have and a bit over 2 inches long. Seems counter intuitive to what I was expecting given the number of coils on it. Maybe it is a different type of wire.
Another question I have, does the size of the coil matter? I realize it does for the amount of wire used, but does it matter for flavor? A larger coil definitely needs a thicker wick. The coils on the HH357 are certainly smaller than the 2mm ones I have made.
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Think of it the wire like a piece of water pipe. The thicker the pipe the easier it is to get water through (low resistance).
It can be a little confusing. The lower the wire gauge number, the larger the diameter of the wire. Example: 28ga wire is larger diameter than 30ga. The larger the diameter of the wire, the lower the resistance will be. Like a water pipe; the larger the pipe, the easier for water to flow through it.
Also, the material. There are several grades of each, but usually we use either Kanthal or Nichrome. For the same gauge, Kanthal has higher resistance than Nichrome, of the same diameter or gauge.
Personally, I like wider coils, using several wraps; and like to have my finished coils at about 2.2 to 2.4 ohms. For me, with the Chids, and a 3/32" wick, it's 6 wraps with 32ga kanthal A1.
Basically, what it boils down to is: The larger the diameter of the wire, the more wire it takes to achieve the desired resistance. If you wanted a 2.0 ohm coil for example, you'd need a longer length of wire, if you were using 28ga, than if you used 32ga.
Good explainations...one caveat here that I would add. Depending on the atty you're trying to rebuild, you will have more or less space to put you coil in. Using too large (lower gauge) wire may end up not allowing you to get enough wraps (length) to get a reasonable resistance. It all depends on the device and how much room you have to work with.
In answer to your flavor question...in general, a bigger coil will spread the heat out over a larger wick area and, therefore, produce more vapor. But, you don't get something for nothing, larger coils will also run cooler at the same wattage than a smaller coil so you may have to increase voltage a bit to get the same heat.
In answer to your flavor question...in general, a bigger coil will spread the heat out over a larger wick area and, therefore, produce more vapor. But, you don't get something for nothing, larger coils will also run cooler at the same wattage than a smaller coil so you may have to increase voltage a bit to get the same heat.
The higher the gauge the less number of wraps to achieve a high ohm and vice versa. What kind of ohms rating are you looking to get? Also, what are you rebuilding?
Yep. I swear, since I've been fooling with this stuff, I've learned more about electronics than I thought I'd ever have to know. I like my coils above 2.0 ohms, because I like to keep my amp draw below 2.0 amps. A couple of my devices are Provari version 1 (been too lazy to send them in for upgrade). Also, the higher the amp draw, the shorter will be your battery duration between recharges.
I have just started getting my feet wet. Just vivi nova heads, bulldog and trivecca rba's. I have been consistantly hitting 2.2 to 2.6 ohms. I twisted my 1st coil on the bulldog and its ohm read 1.7 I put 5 loose coils with 32 guage kanthol. I just had no idea untill now how to obtain the ohms desired.
Investing in a cheap ohm meter and experimenting is the best way to get a feel for resistance and performance of various coil designs. Resistance is based on type of wire and length, not number of turns. More turns probably enable the coil to contact the juice more efficiently.
Just use the meter to measure the resistance of the wire by touching one end and sliding the other probe back and forth. When it reads the value you want for the coil, cut it that length and form the coils around something round that matches the size you desire. Don't allow a coil to touch the one next to it or a short circuit will result, lowering the effective resistance of the entire coil assembly. Different wire gauges and lengths will determine the overall resistance of the wire and the number of turns you can form in that length.
Just use the meter to measure the resistance of the wire by touching one end and sliding the other probe back and forth. When it reads the value you want for the coil, cut it that length and form the coils around something round that matches the size you desire. Don't allow a coil to touch the one next to it or a short circuit will result, lowering the effective resistance of the entire coil assembly. Different wire gauges and lengths will determine the overall resistance of the wire and the number of turns you can form in that length.
I make my coils at work on down time. I use a highend multimeter that gets calibrated quarterly. I just wanted to understand how to produce a coil with low or high ohms. All my devices are vv with the exception of a chrome Bolt I picked up on the cheap. I would like to consistantly make a lower ohm coil for that device.
I have a block. Whenever I read someone trying to explain it, my brain goes off on tangent and I miss it.
I can reread all I want, and I still wont get it. Its probably the numbers involved. I'm numerically dyslexic.
Do i have it right now?
1.) Thicker wire = Lower Ohm
2.) Thinner wire = Higher Ohm
3.) Silver wire = No resistance?
Or does silver wire just take more coils to build resistance? I don't get Silver wire?
4.) Less wire/More wire/#ofcoils = Nothing to do with resistance?
5.) Doubling up/Looping the ends of your coil = A well accepted way to reduce hot spots?
6.) Tighter wick = less wicking. Looser wick = better wicking.
7.) Try to fold ends of wick in and cut any little fray that glows when wick is heated to prevent shorts.
I think I got it now?
I can reread all I want, and I still wont get it. Its probably the numbers involved. I'm numerically dyslexic.
Do i have it right now?
1.) Thicker wire = Lower Ohm
2.) Thinner wire = Higher Ohm
3.) Silver wire = No resistance?
Or does silver wire just take more coils to build resistance? I don't get Silver wire?
4.) Less wire/More wire/#ofcoils = Nothing to do with resistance?
5.) Doubling up/Looping the ends of your coil = A well accepted way to reduce hot spots?
6.) Tighter wick = less wicking. Looser wick = better wicking.
7.) Try to fold ends of wick in and cut any little fray that glows when wick is heated to prevent shorts.
I think I got it now?
#3 silver wire is a very low resistance wire....that people normally call non-resistance wire. For our purposes it is non-resistance.
#4 makes no sense to me..... it should read The more wraps = more wire being used = higher resistance.
#6 is flat out wrong....it should be...the tighter the wick the better the wicking. Also the ticker the wick the better the wicking.
#4 makes no sense to me..... it should read The more wraps = more wire being used = higher resistance.
#6 is flat out wrong....it should be...the tighter the wick the better the wicking. Also the ticker the wick the better the wicking.
I thought the tighter a coil is wrapped around a wick it becomes strangled and doesent wick as well. That is why folks use paper clips, needles, ect.
In my experience a tighter coil gives better, juicier flavor. A loose coil tastes hot and dusty. I've made a lot of coils that were too loose and had to be adjusted, but I've never had one so tight that it strangled the wick.
It can be tempting to loosen the coil to help with shorts. But that's just a hack job, if everything is oxidized properly you can use a tight coil and it will work fine. For me it helps to remove the juice and dry burn the coil many times. Often this will burn through any shorts. Just don't give it too much power or the coil will snap, I start at a low voltage and gradually increase.
It can be tempting to loosen the coil to help with shorts. But that's just a hack job, if everything is oxidized properly you can use a tight coil and it will work fine. For me it helps to remove the juice and dry burn the coil many times. Often this will burn through any shorts. Just don't give it too much power or the coil will snap, I start at a low voltage and gradually increase.
I have made a hand full of my own coils and they taste better than factory ones. I am proud of them but with enough pull I can move the wick and adjust before I secure in place. I will try a tighter coil next time and give it a go. All the videos I have seen people say you don't want the coil too tight, so I am suprized a bit.
I personally don't wrap a super tight wick. As long as the wire is touching the wick, or at least close enough to remain saturated, I haven't found there to be too much of a flavor difference between wrapping loose and wrapping tightly, so long as there are no shorts. That being said, I do try and keep the coils touching the wick, and tension on the pos lead as I tighten the pos screw. Imho, it's much harder to get rid of shorts entirely with a tightly-wound wick....but if you get it right, it does give you a bit of "insurance" against dry hits while chain-vaping.
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