Question: why higher wattage?

[MattyTny]

Good info here. I feel the basics of higher wattage have a lot to do with the start of mechanicals and how popular they became. Most of the earlier technology had lower amperage limits and that only let you go so far up on wattage.

Take the example of a mechanical with a fresh charged battery at about 4.1 volts. Using ohms law you can see how much wattage and amperage you get from different coils. And most of the builds vape well since you're not supplying a set wattage, but a set voltage. The 4 volt mark gives enough power to most resistances to work well. A lower resistance will give you more wattage and pull more amps at 4 volts as opposed to a higher resistance, but they're still set at 4 volts and vape well. Once high wattage capable devices became available the story changes, so 50 watts might look like a lot, but on a 0.4ish resistance it's just the right amount of power to vape well.

You can also use the regulated devices to your advantage and push a higher resistance past 4 volts depending on the coil structure and get a good vape while still keeping amp draw low. Once you start getting into stuff like past 100watts it's more of a hobby aspect.

To be honest, something like a 40-50 watt regulated is all you need to experience different types of gear and builds. This also assumes the regulated has a decent amp limit that can handle stuff down to around 0.5ohms.

 

[rnln]

Thanks for all inputs.
So, what you guys are saying are those box mods with higher wattage, let say the eleaf istick, is between my variable wattage tube mods (like vamo and SVD) and the mechanical mods. Am I correct? It is a variable wattage and has all the circuit protections, a chip, a screen, and it can accept sub ohms head (lower resistant).
Do I get it right?

 

[slappy3139]

Actually, with these high wattage regulated box mods, you can get the performance of a mechanical mod and still have all the safety features of a regulated mod.

 

[rnln]

Can I say this: The high wattage box mod is the variable wattage tube mod but it can fire sub ohms (lower resistance to 1.2 ohms)?
Am I correct?

 

[DaveSignal]

To answer the original question:
People use more power with builds that are comfortable to use with more power, often using thicker wire and more coils. The power is needed to make huge flavor and vapor.

 

[Rossum]

The power is needed to make huge flavor and vapor.

Huge vapor, yes. Huge flavor, no. How much flavor you get is dependent on the design of the atty. One does NOT need big power to get huge flavor if one uses small-chambered atties. The catch is that a small-chambered atty isn't going to produce huge vapor.

Personally, I don't get the point of huge vapor. Why would I want to waste enough juice to fog up a room? I run small-chambered atties with wattages and nic levels both in the teens. That gives me enough nic to stay off the ciggies, and enough flavor that I cut my store-bough juices ~50/50 with unflavored, all without a noticeable reduction in visibility or annoying the non-vapers around me (my family and those who I work with).

 

[DaveSignal]

Well, any RDA can make huge flavor. With enough power, they can all be a flavor-chaser (and makes huge clouds too). Yes, it does go through juice faster, though.

 

[edyle]

Sorry for silly questions. I have not visit this board for months and seem like am completely out of date. I have several variable wattage tube mods and vape at 7w most of the time. On resistance, I usually build it at between 1.4 ohms to 2 ohms.
Can someone explain to me what do you use higher wattage as 30w-100w for?
Thanks.

If you usually build 1.4 ohm single coil and vape it at 7 watts,
then if you add a second 1.4 ohm coil, it would need 14 watts.

If you use thicker gauge wire for your coils, the thicker wire needs more power to get hot enough.
Use the steam engine calculator.

 

[rnln]

My SVD can go up to 15w, the built is at 1.4 ohms . I tried, flavor is great, but is it safe to go that high?
Thanks.
I am using 18650 PD/PF/B/CH

 

[Rossum]

I believe the PD, PF, and CH are all rated 10 A continuous discharge and are are fine in regulated mods up to about 20 watts. The B is only rated 6.8A, which doesn't leave you a whole lot of headroom at 15W. Much much depends on how low a voltage the the mod will allow the battery to get (under load!) before it refuses to fire. Note that the no-load voltage you see when you pull the battery out is not the determining factor here.

 

[rnln]

thanks Rossum, thanks guys

 

[benearl1]

For those who still love to vape at 7-14 watts and don't understand why someone would need 30-100+ watts to have a satisfying vape, should know that its all about the atomizer and build. Something like a protank 2, for example, vapes fine in that wattage area. This is because the protank 2 does not have a lot of airflow and has a higher ohm coil in it. I used to be the same way with my itaste svd and whatever clearomizer i had on it prior to the sub ohm clearos. Just vaping that at 14 watts would be a little harsh.

Think of it as a ratio, or balance. The more air flow and lower ohms = the more power needed to produce a satisfying vape (and the less nicotine you need in your ejuice). Currently I use a dark horse rda with a dual 22 gauge coil build coming out at 0.18 ohms. I can set my ipv3 to 14 watts and take a 6 second lung hit and will not get any vapor from it. With this set up my sweet spot is 65-75 watts to get a nice moist warm, not hot, vape. But if I were to throw that protank on the ipv3, or any other clearomizer with limited airflow, my sweet spot would be in that 7-14 watt range.

I don't vape at higher wattages to produce monster clouds, bro. Those are just a bonus I just think it is much more satisfying to blow out more vapor and have those delicious clouds leave my mouth for a longer period of time. Also, lung hitting grew on me and I feel I would have a hard time going back to mouth to lung hits.

The beauty is you can vape however the hell you want to vape. Weather your future of vaping includes working your way up the wattage latter or sitting at the same spot you're at now doesn't matter. As long as you're satisfied!

 

[Robert Cromwell]

Strangely enough my best flavor is from my little Kanger T4 808D clearomizers on an 808 stick battery. Not a lot of vapor but great flavor. But not airy enough to suit me so I settle for a bit less flavor and more vapor on My evods with bored out air holes and hand wound coils with Japanese cotton. I must be running at a whoppin 8 watts or so.

that 300w mod should have a key switch instead of a button.

 

[rnln]

benearl1,
thanks. Your explanation helps me to understand more.

 

[sucram]

Main advantage is you get to spend more on juice.

 

[Spidey2011]

those insanely high watt users are mostly cloud chasing,,trying to make the biggest cloud formation

locally the "ARES" has caught on big time,,it is a 300 watt mod that uses RC car batteries ,

oh yea ,it is as big as a brick too

Not necassarily. I'm running 75 watts on a .4 ohm coil and stealth vaping in the office. Very little vapor coming out. Its about flavor and temp to me.

 

[Vapey_McVape]

The higher the ohms the more surface area there is. I vape at 45 watts on my .8 twisted 26g.

If that coil was now a .4 I would be vaping it at 22.5 watts.

Ohms have very little todo with anything on a vv/vw device its about how much overall surface area your coil has and figuring out the right ammount of heat that needs to be applied to it in order to produce vapor.

 

[Dioxyde]

Sorry for silly questions. I have not visit this board for months and seem like am completely out of date. I have several variable wattage tube mods and vape at 7w most of the time. On resistance, I usually build it at between 1.4 ohms to 2 ohms.
Can someone explain to me what do you use higher wattage as 30w-100w for?
Thanks.

Welcome back, a lot can change in the vaping industry in a short amount of time. The higher wattage is for low sub ohm builds to take giant hits and produce more vapor, many devices now support this. You can go pretty low with the right devices and batteries but there are drawbacks of course, namely battery life and juice consumption. I try to find a good balance between everything that works well for me and usually settle with builds from about .5 to 1.2, which means I'm typically vaping between 14-30 watts depending on where my build falls in that range. If what you have works well for you then there's no reason to change it, however, with all the pending "regulation".. stocking up and getting into diy is a sound idea.

 

[Thedudeabides870]

Thanks for all inputs.
So, what you guys are saying are those box mods with higher wattage, let say the eleaf istick, is between my variable wattage tube mods (like vamo and SVD) and the mechanical mods. Am I correct? It is a variable wattage and has all the circuit protections, a chip, a screen, and it can accept sub ohms head (lower resistant).
Do I get it right?

The istick 50w also will hit 10 volts if you build close to 2 ohms

 

[MrNobody]

I vape between 80-115w on builds ranging from .12-.30 ohms simply because I love thick hot vapes and anything lower just isn't satisfying.