Questions about Prodigy V2 & Switch Problems

[uzzaperez]

A quick background for a frame of reference to my questions:
I've had the original Prodigy for quite some time and been pretty pleased with it. I broke it (my bad). I ordered a Chuck because I'm not smart enough to decipher all of the Prodigy V2 switch problem stuff - and also 3.7v & 6v capability sounded nice. Turns out I like 5v - 3.7 is too little, 6+ is too much, Goldilocks thinks 5 volts is JUST RIGHT. And damn, the Chuck is huge and weighs about 47 pounds (exageration), and the button is too easy to accidentally press, so I start missing my sleek and relatively light (I'm a hiker so every ounce matters) Prodigy.

So, I'm looking at the V2, which appears even slimmer than the original Prodigy, so if the casing is the same material it is probably even lighter. But the reported switch issues concern me. So, I have a couple questions hopefully some mod pros can answer:

1. Can someone breakdown the switch issues "for dummies"? Has it been resolved by now so new V2's don't have the problem?

2. What is different about the switch that causes the problems? Why wouldn't the old Prodigy or the Chuck have similar switch issues?

 

[geeker]

I can't help you with the switch issue, but it's heavier than the v1. It's stainless, not aluminum.

 

[doots]

I cant answer all of that but the check uses a electrical switch and the v2 is mechanical.

I had the v2 and had a lot of problems with the old switch. I think they have fixed it since then..

I still use my 5v GLV and has never failed and like where the button is at. it. No firing in pocket.

 

[uzzaperez]

If the V2 is mechanical how do they accomplish 5 volts? I thought that required an electrical check. I'm not one of these electrical savy guys though.

 

[GregH]

If the V2 is mechanical how do they accomplish 5 volts? I thought that required an electrical check. I'm not one of these electrical savy guys though.

The differences in voltage is achieved through different metals used to make contact with the steel posts.

For 5v (on the Prodigy V2), a titanium contact disk is used.

For 3.7v (on the Protege and [future] Prodigy V2.1 and on), a copper disk is used.

Regarding the reported switch problems, I, personally have not experienced any problems that haven't been solved by a little maintenance. For example, if I start noticing a drop in performance or misfires, I take it apart and clean the titanium contact disk with a pencil eraser. (Some people have actually sanded their contact disk. But I've found a pencil eraser does the same thing and isn't destructive.) I have also applied Noalox (a conductive antioxidant available in the electrical section of Home Depot/Lowes) to my contact disk. I just did that once about 4 days ago out of curiosity. I've not had a single misfire since.

All of the previous applies to the old (black delrin) switch. I don't have the new all stainless button for my V2 yet. But I do have it for my Protege V1.1. I have to say the button on that little device is wonderful. I have not had a single misfire in about 2 full weeks.

What I like about the mechanical button (over the electrical/tact buttons) is that they are user serviceable. They might take some tinkering, but at least you can fix it yourself if something does go wrong. That's because there's nothing in them to break or short. Either there's contact or there isn't. The main reason I love this concept so much is because my original tact switch in my first Protege died on me on New Years Eve. I was SOL because there was no way for me to fix it myself.

 

[bearscreek]

True, the V2 is significantly smaller and significantly heavier, but way better looking. I don't have the new switch, so I cant say for sure if all problems are fixed, but I can say that (as stated above) the mechanical switch is better since it does give you at least a possibility of fixing it yourself without a soldering iron. The main problems have revolved basically around things that block contact between the ring and the posts -- like a tiny sliver of plastic, oxidation, the rubber band/washer deforming and making the ring not sit flush, etc. The mechanical switch is really a much simpler design that has, at least in theory, more of a no-brainer, hassle-free function.

 

[uzzaperez]

Thanks guys. That is great info. I really like the idea of a the mechanical switch, it sounds to be worth the maintenance to have a longer lasting less complex switch mechanism. That resolves concern number 1. I'm kind of bummed about concern number 2 though. I really really liked the light weight aluminum body...too bad about the heavier steel body.

 

[AJMoore]

OK, so I cleaned my Prodigy V2, it has the "new" repair kit installed (2 contacts and an "O" ring). No luck. I saw a video on YouTube about a few tricks (cleaning off any delron, etc.) tried that and it fired, yes it fired and instantly blew up an atty. Then fired no more.

I've gone through almost 10 attys with this thing, one blow up after another. I'll have a favorite atty, works great on all other mods, but blows on the Prodigy V2.

What's up? Like I said, I tinker and tinker, finally get it to hit and then POW, no atty, and then nothing again.