Quick questions for Temp Control Users

[majnu]

Following on from my problems with temp control with the Evic VTC Mini can anyone who uses temp control answer these short questions please?

1. device name/model. Atomizer name/model. Resistance of build and wire used.
2. When you press the fire button does the resistance fluctuate?
3. When you lock your resistance does it fluctuate when you press the fire button?
4. When you place a coil or new atomizer on your device does it ask if it is a new coil or same?
5. At what tolerance does your device not trigger the above event? i.e is it sensitive to resistance changes at 0.1ohm or 0.01ohm.
6. Assuming you have placed your atomizer on your ecig at room temp does your device after you have used it for a few minutes and pick it up to vape again ask if your you have placed a new coil? Does detect a change in resistance?
7. After resetting your device and letting it normalize to room temp when placing on the same atomizer you have used does it ask if it is a new or same coil?

Thank you

 

[yovengo]

I've successfully made a nickel build with mutiple fails lol. I used the Ipv4, twisted ni200 around .08 in the vector RDA. I always lock my resistance and my device doesn't ask me if its a new Atty or coil that I'm aware of lol

 

[sofarsogood]

I've been using a Kangxin mini VT in temp control mode exclusively since last summer. (See my setup below.) It's been great. No problems. No burnt hits so far.

 

[wheelie]

Does not sounds wrong what yours is doing. Yes they do fluctuate some in resistance here and their and ask if it is new or same coil. Seems the longer you vape a coil the less it asks you that question. Seems to take nickel coils longer to get set ohms and stabilize. I run between .1 and .25. I have the eVic VT. It does TC very well compared to my Pegasus which is terrible at TC. Hope this helps. CHEERS!


Edited to add.
I am presently using an Atlantis V1 with a .13 rebuilt stock coil, twisted 4mm vertical with two 30 gauge nickel wire and one 32 Kanthal, all twisted together with a drill. Seems to be the most stable out of any coil I have used on the eVic VT. But coil rebuild is from SS316L and the Nickel coils that came with the Triton. I have a lot of tanks that take these same coils as I have been rebuilding them for some time now.

 

[Margucci]

the VTC mini has a lot of TC issues. there is a huge thread about it. i am in the same boat myself. however, with my xcube i have no issues at all. the resting resistance is constant and i have no issues at all. that is in SS and Ni TC modes (i dont have anything Ti).

 

[Marc411]

SX Mini M class or my Renegade SM J and damn near any atty with Ti G1 and the vape has been consistently great and no problems. My go to build is 24ga, 6 wraps at .21 ohms spaced.

 

[Paul lamb]

I had the evic vt and the temperature control was absolutely fine.

Always locked the reistance if you don't your asking for trouble

 

[fishwater]

My SMY 60TC Mini fluctuates, it's a normal function of TC since there's no way to lock the resistance in the SMY. In my Snow Wolf I can lock it. Both my mods detect when I install a new atty. My builds are in the .13-.15 range on Ni200.

 

[Paul lamb]

My ipv4s locks the resistance too,

My subtank has a positive pin connection issue and if the resistance is not right, DRY HIT, the worst type lol there's nothing worse then taking a huge lung hit then BOOM!! Eyes watering the lot

I have learned the hard way always lock the resistance

 

[Paul lamb]

My SMY 60TC Mini fluctuates, it's a normal function of TC since there's no way to lock the resistance in the SMY. In my Snow Wolf I can lock it. Both my mods detect when I install a new atty. My builds are in the .13-.15 range on Ni200.

How does it work without locking? If the resistance bounces around the risk of dry hits is higher than ever

 

[Margucci]

i honestly dont understand the need to lock the resistance at all. that entire process is redundant. when you install a new coil the mod asks you if its new. if you answer yes the mod now has a baseline resistance to work from. why you need to lock in a base resistance when you have already told the mod that its a new coil. is the base resistance ever going to change after installation? never. so there is no point.

 

[Paul lamb]

The resistance in nickel wire I've noticed bounces around more than kanthal

The chip needs the exact resistance at all times for it to perform correctly

That's all I've picked up using different mods,

 

[Margucci]

yes the resistance changes. even small changes in temperature (such as after you vape) will result in a resistance change. my comment wasnt in reference to the need for the resistance to be locked but the act of locking it. whenever you install a new coil and you answer that it is new the mod should just automatically lock the resistance. there is nothing actually happening when you lock the resistance. nothing changes in the coil. the mod just sets the base resistance that it calculates temperature off of as that initial resistance. if the mod "locked" the resistance automatically there would be no difference to the vape. it would also keep you from having to remember to lock it yourself. under what situation do you ever unlock the resistance if you are using the same coil? if in some rare situation you need reset the resistance just take off the tank, dripper, whatever and put it back on and select new coil again. its so much more simple.

 

[fishwater]

It doesn't need to lock the atty in once it recognizes it once, from there the resistance fluctuates while in use & the mod adjusts accordingly. I've never once had a dry hit or burnt cotten, in fact the TC functions better than my Snow Wolf.

How does it work without locking? If the resistance bounces around the risk of dry hits is higher than ever

 

[fishwater]

The resistance in nickel wire I've noticed bounces around more than kanthal

The chip needs the exact resistance at all times for it to perform correctly
That's all I've picked up using different mods,

This is true, with Ni200 the resistance does bounce a little, I believe that to be a function of the wire in use during the draw at various temps/wattage applied to maintain temp.

The mod sets the baseline resistance when the atty is first installed cold, from there the mod detects change in temp & adjusts based on the original base resistance compared to the current resistance.

 

[Margucci]

It doesn't need to lock the atty in once it recognizes it once, from there the resistance fluctuates while in use & the mod adjusts accordingly. I've never once had a dry hit or burnt cotten, in fact the TC functions better than my Snow Wolf.

exactly. this is why it doesnt have a manual lock. my xcube doesnt have a resistance lock either and it works perfectly. the "locked" resistance is just what is first detected.

 

[Paul lamb]

exactly. this is why it doesnt have a manual lock. my xcube doesnt have a resistance lock either and it works perfectly. the "locked" resistance is just what is first detected.

That does make more sense to be honest

If the mod is intelligent enough to recognise the initial resistance then keep it there then locking it is a bit pointless

 

[fishwater]

On a side note I've been using power mode lately to prepare for my new REO that's in route instead of TC. I've noticed that I'm using at least another 1.0-1.5ml more of the same juice per day at 30w running a .88 build as well as 75 less puffs per battery than using TC. In other words I find TC to be much more efficient in every way without dry hits & just as satisfying as power mode on the same mod.

 

[Margucci]

On a side note I've been using power mode lately to prepare for my new REO that's in route instead of TC. I've noticed that I'm using at least another 1.0-1.5ml more of the same juice per day at 30w running a .88 build as well as 75 less puffs per battery than using TC. In other words I find TC to be much more efficient in every way without dry hits & just as satisfying as power mode on the same mod.

yup you also get better battery life on TC